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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Exhaust bolt /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1400730477 Message started by quentin99 on 05/21/14 at 20:47:57 |
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Title: Exhaust bolt Post by quentin99 on 05/21/14 at 20:47:57 So I removed my exhaust to take off my side cover to check my adjuster and one of the exhaust bolts on the engine snapped. It is an 87 so no surprise. Any idea how to remove the bolt? |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by S-P on 05/21/14 at 21:33:24 4460707B617C7B2C2C150 wrote:
Douse it really good and long with a 50-50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. It works a LOT better than store bought rusty bolt liquids. Then use an easy out. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by Serowbot on 05/21/14 at 22:34:27 Oh heck,.. just shoot yourself now, and be done with it... ;D ;D ;D... Probly bad advice... gather all yer' drills, bits, dremels, screwdrivers, vise grips, files, and hammers... ...then, shoot yerself... :-?... |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by quentin99 on 05/22/14 at 05:50:44 Hahaha yeah I figured it is going to be the biggest pain to remove |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/22/14 at 10:40:53 56514053404B55445049250 wrote:
Douse it really good and long with a 50-50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. It works a LOT better than store bought rusty bolt liquids. Then use an easy out. [/quote] Douse it really good and long with a 50-50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. Douse it really good and long with a 50-50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. Douse it really good and long with a 50-50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. Do that, like that. Let it sit,, Is it poking up, broke off flush, broke off down inside? Dont touch it yet,,lets talk, Did it turn any or did it just twist off? Ohh,, & unless youre equipped with a bionic eyeball & an arm, youre not drilling that skinny little bolt on center. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by quentin99 on 05/22/14 at 12:53:14 It made a few turns and then just the head snapped off. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by Dave on 05/22/14 at 13:12:15 1D39292238252275754C0 wrote:
So if you take off the header and flange.....there is a section of bolt sticking out? |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by quentin99 on 05/22/14 at 19:06:48 Yep. Ill just go take a picture that will be best |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/22/14 at 20:47:09 Awwrite, for future reference, When removing a bolt, especially a skinny, frail little thing, if it starts off okay & then starts fighting, STOP, put some penetrating oil on it ( see above for the recipe for the best danged penetrating oil not labelled "Top Secret" & available only to military types), turn it back the other way, douse it again, let it sit a few minutes,,REALIZE that friction = Heat , heat & friction cause galling, making a successful extraction less likely. Be Gentle, Time spent winning is better than time spent fixing Not Winning. So,, It backed out a few turns, then just "snapped off",, Ive had that happen, even when I went at it as carefully as Ive laid out,, it can happen,,BUT, once I learned these painful lessons, it has happened a Lot less.. Now, is there any bolt sticking up? If so, how much? If you dont have acetone & tranny fluid, ya need some. A quart of acetone is about $6.00 at the hardware store. You can save that $$$ just by refilling the wifes fingernail polish remover bottle a coupla times. Same stuff, just a vastly different price,.,Cheapo tranny fluid,,mixed 50/50, BUT, ya gotta keep it in a closed container, cuz the acetone evaporates & they separate, so ya gotta shake it up. I used an empty "Zoom OIl", cuz it has the long spout tube.. & the red cap to hold the vapor pressure. A pic would be great |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by quentin99 on 05/22/14 at 20:52:31 darn I knew I was forgetting something. I will get a picture tomorrow. The bolt hangs out about an inch-1.5 inches |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/22/14 at 21:48:30 SWEET!!!,, Then take the Other bolt & look, see how many threads are still in the head.. For mow, dont touch it,, just get some of that mix put together & put some on,, I like a syringe, putting a tiny drop on, letting it work in, another drop,, let it work in,, let it sit,, keep letting oil drip in, then put a flat spot on 2 sides on the bolt, get some small,, SMALL vise grips & clamp them on. TRy to tighten the thing.. Screw it back IN,, Dont go all the wway, just a few turns & stop, add oil, add oil,, wiggle it back & forth, working the threads, Keep turning it back & forth,,adding oil, any time it starts fighting, add oil, go the other way,add oil,, wiggle, wiggle, try to bring it out 1/2 turn more every time, less, okay.,, just dont get macho,, You can also get a little gas powered soldering pencil ( about $10.00 at Lowes) & heat the bolt, slap a coupla ice cubes on it & that can break scale up down inside,Id play with it with vise grips & oil, if that doesnt act promising, then heat,, Maybe someone can add something, or just plain has a better idea.. Just dont get in a hurry,, wait on others,, |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by Badass94Cad on 05/23/14 at 06:53:01 You at least have the benefit of having some material to grab onto. Mine snapped flush with the head. Here's a link to what I did in case it will help you. 8-) http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1375534214/4#4 (http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1375534214/4#4) |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by Dave on 05/23/14 at 07:16:53 If there are threads exposed all the way to the end.....I can make you a "tool" that will thead over the stud....that will have a small pilot hole in it. That way you can install the "tool" on the bolt, and then drill a small pilot hole dow the center of the broken bolt. The hole wil allow you to squirt penetrating oil to the other side of the bolt.....or allow you to drill it out if need be. You will have to use the tool before you put any vice grips on the broken bolt and screw up the threads. If the threads don't go all the way to the end of the broke bolt - you would have to cut it off to the threaded portion......or I could make the tool without threads and you would just have to hold it in place while using it. Dave PS. For those of you who have not had these bolts out in a while....maybe this is a good time to take one out, apply "never sieze" and reinstall it...then do the other one. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by quentin99 on 05/23/14 at 10:57:53 what if i took 2 nuts and put it on the end and made a new head and put a socket on it and put oil in the thread would that work. like make one nut 10mm and the other 9 so it would grab the 10 mm and the 9 would act as a stop and it would just screw out? |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by greenmonster on 05/23/14 at 11:02:33 Interestingly enough. I've just had almost the exact same thing happen to me. Only difference is that I had the bolt snap about half an inch from the head. Couple questions folks. 1. I'm looking at the bolt that didn't snap and I don't want to put it back in. It looks like an M8 x 35mm. Is there any reason for me to not replace this with stainless? 2. Will Antiseize/Neverseize work on these bolts? There is an awful lot of heat applied to them. I have the bonus that I actually have a spare head sitting in my storage closet. I was planning on a port/polish next week. That may happen today. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by Dave on 05/23/14 at 13:05:44 The nut is an 8mm thread....with a 10mm hex. The "double nut" method could work.....but you gotta get it lubed first. If it broke off the head......you know it is gonna be tight. After you lube, and lube and lube.....clean the exposed threads really well. Then put some threadlocker on the bolt, then screw on both nuts. Tighten them pretty tight together....then leave them alone for a few hours while the threadlocker sets. Since the bolt broke coming out - you first need to try going in. First apply more penetrating oil....then try to go in by only putting the wrench on the outer nut and turn inward....that tends to just make the nut tighter.....and you want to try and get the bolt to go in a little. If you can turn it in a little....try working the bolt back and forth so the oil can be worked around. Gradually try to turn the bolt out by placing the wrench on the inner nut....and turning out....don't force anything and definetly don't break anything. If you can't get it out we are going to use that exposed threads to center a drill fixture on the bolt. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by Spamy on 05/23/14 at 13:17:27 1. Stainless will work. But it galls easier. It expands and contracts more with heat than regular steel. But it does look pretty. 2. Anti seize works just fine with heat. It comes with some spark plugs, and they get pretty hot. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by greenmonster on 05/23/14 at 13:47:51 Yeah I went and read my silver loctite container and it says that it's good to over a 1000*. If it gets hotter than that, I have other problems. Stainless is what I have on hand so I'll probably use that until I can get to a hardware store and get some grade 8's |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by Dave on 05/23/14 at 13:56:37 5F4A5D5D565557564B4C5D4A380 wrote:
Silver Loctite? Is that an anti-sieze product? |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by greenmonster on 05/23/14 at 14:10:36 Silver Grade Anti-Seize It's a Loc-Tite product Anything I don't want to stick I goop up with that stuff and years later it still comes apart like a dream. I've never tried it on an engine before but I'll let you know the next time I have to undo anything. ;D |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/23/14 at 22:42:08 Yes, Quentin, you can double nut the thing & do just fine. Just run the nuts down close to where the bolt exits the head. That way you wont be applying lateral forces an inch or so from the head. & pay attention to HOW ya Hold the wrench. You only want to apply Rotational Forces & read all the "Oil it, work it in & out " stuff until it is burned in.. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by WD on 05/23/14 at 23:54:43 Going to get marine grade stainless steel studs for mine, and use brass or bronze nuts. Loc-tite the studs into the head, anti-sieze on the nuts. Lowe's Home Depot, ACE, West Marine, etc should have the hardware. I'd like to replace every single fastener on both of my bikes with marine grade bronze, but finding bronze small metric fasteners is a bit of a nightmare (and expensive). Look at 1933-60 Chrysler L6 exhaust fasteners. They do not get stuck or break very often... replicate that concept in miniature for your thumper. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/24/14 at 00:12:15 Studs w/ brass nuts is the most bulletproof idea Ive seen,, |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by S-P on 05/24/14 at 14:28:40 312E282F32350434043C2E22695B0 wrote:
I've been accused of that... ;D |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by shorty on 05/24/14 at 19:42:48 grade 8 steel is much stronger than stainless steel.. stainless is corrosion resistant only |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by WD on 05/25/14 at 07:27:03 5E4C435E4243484A2D0 wrote:
Don't tell the folks at A.R.P. or Totally Stainless that... both companies have stainless fasteners that are well beyond Grade 8 quality... it all depends on what your base alloy is and how it is worked and then tempered. Grade 8 is good, but in many locations it is the wrong one to use. For strong side load shear resistance, you actually want a Grade 5. It will stretch where a Grade 8 will shatter. For the piddly puny exhaust studs on a Savage, standard hardware store bolts/studs is adequate. There is no load on them, they just snug up the retainer flange. The header pipe takes the load itself. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by quentin99 on 05/27/14 at 17:09:54 Got it out with vise grips and alot of penetrating oil |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by S-P on 05/27/14 at 17:27:02 YEEEHHAAAAA! Awesome! |
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Title: Re: Exhaust bolt Post by Dave on 05/27/14 at 17:27:34 1C38282339242374744D0 wrote:
Most excellent. Go celebrate with the adult beverage of your choice. However...."Ensure" is not what I mean by an "adult beverage"! |
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