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General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> drilled air/fuel screw, no threads . Any ideas?
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Message started by wickedbiker on 04/02/14 at 22:58:47

Title: drilled air/fuel screw, no threads . Any ideas?
Post by wickedbiker on 04/02/14 at 22:58:47

Hey
I stripped my air fuel screw and tried to get it out using a torx bit like the thread suggested but that just stripped out as well so I ended up drilling the screw out entirely there might be thread but if so not much and hopefully theres no screw debris still.
My question is: How can I put a new screw in?
For now I have a pencil eraser with a paper clip through the middle running down into the hole where the needle of the screw would normally go (Funny thing is I only get back fire every once in a blue moon now)
Bike runs good as is but I'm considering doing the white spacer mod.
I have not attempted to see if the screw will maintain in the hole simply because I do not want to SCREW up my carburetor.
Meaning I really dont want to have to dig out the new $7.99 + $7 tax screw back out of the carbs again if possible the main goal being as close to the way it was as possible.
I guess what I am asking is, What would you do in my situation? :-/

Thanks

Title: Re: drilled air/fuel screw, no threads . Any ideas
Post by ToesNose on 04/03/14 at 04:15:42

If it was my carb/bike I would break the entire carb down to make sure no debris is left in there, apply some JB weld or equivalent and re tap the opening. That way you have piece of mind that no metal is floating around where it shouldn't in there and have your ease of adjustment.

Title: Re: drilled air/fuel screw, no threads . Any ideas
Post by wickedbiker on 04/03/14 at 06:17:59

457E74625F7E6274110 wrote:

You think JB weld will work ok for tapping it out? I defiantly agree about the latter clean good, debris bad!
I have never really done anything like that but it is really important to me that I get this back to normal. How would you go about that procedure?
I'm assuming a tap and die kit will be required but would I plug the hold with the JB and let it dry and drill it out then tap it or tap it while its pliable?????

It definitely sounds like a good feesable fix and gives me a great deal of hope that I will not have to try to come up with $200 and up for a new carb, when ultimately I have a perfectly good one other than this.

Title: Re: drilled air/fuel screw, no threads . Any ideas
Post by S-P on 04/03/14 at 07:55:38

5B454F4749484E4547495E2C0 wrote:

It definitely sounds like a good feesable fix and gives me a great deal of hope that I will not have to try to come up with $200 and up for a new carb, when ultimately I have a perfectly good one other than this.

If that doesn't work, I have a carb that has had a couple screws and pieces scavanged off it, but the body is good. You could put all your existing jets and needle/diaphram etc. in it. 50.00 + shipping (I think about 15.00) if you're interested PM me.

Title: Re: drilled air/fuel screw, no threads . Any ideas
Post by Dave on 04/03/14 at 08:20:29

2A2D3C2F3C3729382C35590 wrote:

[quote author=5B454F4749484E4547495E2C0 link=1396504727/0#2 date=1396531079]

It definitely sounds like a good feesable fix and gives me a great deal of hope that I will not have to try to come up with $200 and up for a new carb, when ultimately I have a perfectly good one other than this.

Title: Re: drilled air/fuel screw, no threads . Any ideas
Post by wickedbiker on 04/03/14 at 10:27:41

I would certainly do that if I could, but I'm flat broke. Maybe if the offer still stands when I can get the money. I would definitely appreciate it.

I have another question since I mentioned the spacer mod.
I am waiting on a shorty muffler with removable baffle and I have a cone filter. Do you guys think I could use those with the mod without losing to much power?
I only have the stock jets on the carbs and like I said no scratch for a kit.

Title: Re: drilled air/fuel screw, no threads . Any ideas
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/03/14 at 11:11:18

Go hunting a piece of aluminum or even copper tubing that is about the right size, drill & tap it, drill the carb body,( If you can get it "Right" here, heat the carb, freeze the sleeve, it could work w/o glue) JB it in.All youll need is the new adjuster screw.. You get JB weld in the carb & thats not gonna be good. Hold it so it drips OUT, not In.. Score the "sleeve" around the circumference, a few dimples in the carb cast, Itll stay..