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Message started by Sailorgirl on 03/21/14 at 10:01:53

Title: help with battery draining problem
Post by Sailorgirl on 03/21/14 at 10:01:53

I just got my '96 Savage running again two weeks ago.  However, after my friend initially got it running no problem while I was out of town, the battery was too drained to run the started when I came back.  I replaced the battery with the "no maintenance" type, and the bike started right up and I rode away as happy as can be.  I rode about an hour total each day last week, but the bike has been sitting the past 5 days (I have to leave for school before the temp rises above freezing, I haven't been brave enough to ride it when it's that cold!).  So the bike has been sitting less than a week with the temperature staying above 20F, and the brand new battery wasn't able to start the bike up this morning.  It still had power to run the lights and turn over, it just wasn't starting.   Just like when I tried it last week after the bike had sat for two days without running... >:(

Is it possible that the cold temps affected the battery?  The old one made it through 4 months of winter while the bike was still in pieces and managed to start the bike up that first time, but then drained after the bike was reassembled.

Or is it more likely that something was done incorrectly when the bike was reassembled (I wasn't in town when it was reassembled, or I would have stuck to the manual!)  I know that when storing the bike for long periods you're supposed to use a battery tender, but I don't have a space to put my bike next to a power outlet; do they make cordless battery tenders??

The new battery I purchased had already been filled when I bought it, but I don't know how long ago.  Is it possible that the new battery is just a dud?

I never had problems with the old battery before I did any work on the bike.  It sat for at least a week at a time when I traveled for work last year and each time I came home it started right back up, no issues.  That was in the summer time, when it was warmer, but I never had electrical problems until now, even when it started getting cold last fall.

Any ideas?

PS:  Big Thank Yous to the helpful replies on my last post! I had my carb cleaned (didn't have a garage or friend with a garage yet), which didn't help a whole lot, and the shop said all the parts looked a little worn but "just fine".  So I tried swapping out the vacuum petcock for a manual one, which did the trick!  Then, of course, I forgot to shut off the valve one day and my "just fine" float needle let gas drain all into the air filter box and all over the parking lot!  Anyway, I rebuilt the carb, cleaned the spark plug, and my friend reassembled the bike, and it started and ran wonderfully!  And now here I am with the dead battery :(

Title: Re: help with battery draining problem
Post by verslagen1 on 03/21/14 at 10:06:48

it's possible you knocked a connection loose.

have you checked charging voltage?

Title: Re: help with battery draining problem
Post by Sailorgirl on 03/21/14 at 10:09:49

not yet, I don't have a charger or tester at home and I was on my way to school this morning, no time to check it.

Is it likely to have knocked a connection loose twice?  I didn't reconnect anything when the old battery died, just replaced the battery and the terminals are on there nice and snug.  It was a bit windy this week, but not windy enough to have torn things apart: my cover didn't even come off!

I will have the battery tested when I take it back to the store tomorrow or later today and I'll post an update

UPDATE: just pulled the battery from the bike, and there are signs that it leaked a bit of acid. Could that be just the low temps overnight?

Title: Re: help with battery draining problem
Post by shorty on 03/22/14 at 07:30:15

make sure your decompression system is working properly too, if unfamiliar it could be assembled incorrectly and that makes the starter work too hard (drawing too many amps)

Title: Re: help with battery draining problem
Post by Sailorgirl on 03/22/14 at 09:39:05

Well, when I returned the battery, the guy at the store said he tested it and it was fully charged, but he didn't really seem to want to discuss the bulging in the side of the battery. I didn't buy another battery from that store....

I'm waiting on a new one to be charged up now. I don't have space to be able to remove the fuel tank, so I won't be able to test the decompression solenoid. The decompression solenoid wasn't disassembled when I was doing work on the bike. Is there a way to test without removing the fuel tank? I could hear the *phump* sound like muffled farts in the pipe when I tried to start it up.

I won't be surprised if it starts right back up with the new battery. Question is if it will die again after sitting for a while :-/

Title: Re: help with battery draining problem
Post by swedishbiker on 03/22/14 at 09:59:02

An easy test, connect a small bulb serial with one of the battery wires. If it lights with all shut off you have a leak somewhere.

Title: Re: help with battery draining problem
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/22/14 at 11:11:00

Yes, run a test to see if the battery is pulling a load w/ the key in your pocket,
A bulge in a battery isnt good,,ever
Sitting for a week or 2 should be no problem, if a battery is losing charge that fast its not healthy. My pickup sits for weeks sometimes, it fires right up. Battery tenders are a good plan if youre looking at a month or more. Building a pigtail with a simple 2 wire plug is a trim & clean way to go. When the new battery goes in, run to Radio Shack, grab a 2 wire connector, or, some tenders come w/ a pigtail. Fix that thing up,, makes checking the battery voltage real easy, too. Just slip the voltmeter leads into the connector.. shazzam,, its done, IF its down to under 12.3 or so, plug it in,, I know, a tender is supposed to be okay to leave it on,, I just dont trust them, I take them off after its charged up. I test voltages & if I see a battery dropping too quick, I watch it closer or replace it,, specially if its still under warranty.

Title: Re: help with battery draining problem
Post by Sailorgirl on 03/22/14 at 12:16:40

I tried a small 12v automotive bulb; it didn't light up with the key at "off" or "on" or with the key in my pocket.

Out in the new battery and she started right up after I let some fuel flow in. Fuel was flowing fine the other day when I tried to start it.

I do have a battery tender, but I'll have to pull my battery and bring it inside if I want to charge, no outlets outside.

I didn't put in my original post but the old battery had sat unconnected all winter with no tender, so I assumed it just barely made it before.

I did find all kinds of lost bolts and small tools hiding in the crevices between the engine and the bike frame!

Title: Re: help with battery draining problem
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/22/14 at 13:22:18

You gotta unhook the negative lead & connect the lamp between the battery post & the cable. That way, if thers current flow, the lite will lite up. It sure otta lite up with the key on,.

Title: Re: help with battery draining problem
Post by Sailorgirl on 03/22/14 at 15:19:39

I hooked it up correctly in series with the battery.

I might try again when it's dark, maybe it was just hard to see. I tested the bulb connections and leads I used, they were fine, so it wasn't that.

Just reattached leads to the bulb and did the test again, bulb was off with no key in the ignition and on when I put the key in and turned it to "on". Must have shorted or gapped somehow the first time I tried it  :-[

But no short in the electrical system! ;D I'll have to see if this new battery has any issues in a few days, I guess.

Thanks for the help!

Title: Re: help with battery draining problem
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/23/14 at 08:34:14

Just reattached leads to the bulb and did the test again, bulb was off with no key in the ignition and on when I put the key in and turned it to "on"

Atsa real Gooda!

Title: Re: help with battery draining problem
Post by swedishbiker on 03/23/14 at 09:18:14

Everyone should have a simple multimeter in the toolbox. And have wire from battery so it can be measured. Less then 12.5V is not good and on charge less then 13.5V indicates something wrong. I don't remember the exact V for the bike, but not less anyway.
I do check this now and then. On every vehicle I have. Usually 12.7V and 14V whit alternator. Dynamo lower.
Once  I have to used my oscilloscope :) charging did jump from 13.4 to 14. It was a lose nut that holds the diodes against the housing. (car alternator)

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