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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Neutral Switch /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1394584400 Message started by Cookie1247 on 03/11/14 at 17:33:20 |
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Title: Neutral Switch Post by Cookie1247 on 03/11/14 at 17:33:20 The neutral light never comes on now, even when in neutral. I know it is in neutral because I can let out the clutch at it does noot stall.. The kickstand interlock is also not working correctly. The engine can only be started when the kickstand is up; regardless of whether it is in neutral or not. According to the Clymer manual the kickstand interlock includes a diode, a relay, then neutral switch and the kickstand switch. I removed the seat and found two wires from the kickstand switch (I think). I disconnected the plug with these two wires and tried to check for continuity between them. I got infinite resistance across these two wires regardless of whether the kickstand was up or down. According to the manual, this means the kickstand switch is no good. This makes no sense since the kickstand must be up to start the engine. If I lower the kickstand in neutral, the engine is killed. The kickstand switch is doing something. Tomorrow I plan to remove the tank and try to find the neutral switch wire and check its continuity. I am expecting it is the neutral switch. Any comments or suggestions would be welcomed... Thanks! :-/ |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by verslagen1 on 03/11/14 at 18:47:30 5C47484444401F1C2B0 wrote:
guess what? kickstand switch is ok, if it wasn't... up or down it wouldn't start. Quote:
neutral switch bad What have you tried with clutch switch? |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by Cookie1247 on 03/11/14 at 18:58:42 Have not tested the clutch switch but the engine will not turn over with the clutch released. Amy likelihood that the relay or diode are out? If not, I should just work on the neutral switch. It looks like the contact is a spring-loaded pin. Do these ever get stuck? Maybe I can repair this switch or just clean it up...What do you think? |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by verslagen1 on 03/11/14 at 19:11:17 yes neutral is easy to check, the switch shorts to ground. the diode should be fun, 1st you got to find it. the relay is probably the most complicated and I hope there's directions somewhere. |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by Cookie1247 on 03/12/14 at 05:18:39 Thanks for the suggestions! I think my next move is to remove the tank, find the relay and check the relay and neutral switch. It has to be one of the two. Hopefully it is not the diode as I cannot find any info on the diode... Thanks again for the suggestions! |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by Dave on 03/12/14 at 05:36:55 The diode looks like a small black fuse and has 3 wires leading into it, and the number 6201 printed on it. Any RYCA conversion guy has cut it off and will gladly give it to you. If you decide you need one.....I got one I can give you. First however.....you need to disconnet the blue wire under the tank, and check and see if the wire is grounded when the bike is in neutral. The blue wire is the neutral switch and should be an open circuit when in gear, and grounded when in neutral. |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by Cookie1247 on 03/12/14 at 10:38:02 Thanks Dave! If I need a diode, I'll let you know. The next step will be to check the neutral switch continuity |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by WD on 03/12/14 at 11:32:19 I got rid of all that garbage. Bike cranks fine w/o it. You can defeat the neutral switch really easily, cut the blue wire, add a ring terminal, attach it to any screw on the frame. Mine was like that for 5 years. The kickstand switch wires were cut and twisted together (harness side) with a small wire nut when the bike was a couple months old in 1998. Salt air ate the switch when I lived on the Gulf Coast. Clutch switch defeated the same way. |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by Kris01 on 03/12/14 at 16:08:27 Why would you want to defeat the clutch switch? |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by Serowbot on 03/12/14 at 16:17:57 59607B612223120 wrote:
Here's one... I once drowned the engine out (different bike) and got too stuck in pothole to push... so I used the starter motor in gear, to crank the bike out... Here's another,... yer' clutch switch quits working at the gas station, on the way home... |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by Steve H on 03/12/14 at 16:53:10 Why would you want it? Motorcycles never had any of this sh*t on them till I got my Savage. You try to start it in gear, it jumps. You either take it out of gear, pull in the clutch, or attempt to start it in gear. No remote start available for motorcycle so no need for switch. You let the clutch out with it in gear, it either takes off or stalls. The engine is running you should be prepared for either situation. You take off with the kickstand down, it folds up or you do a high sider. If it throws you, it'll probably hurt a little. Pain is a very effective teacher. You won't likely do it again. All those safeties are nannies for those who can't / won't learn to properly operate their vehicle. Processes of attrition will weed out those who won't or can't without the nanny. (see Darwinism) Sorry if it sounds a bit rough...It's true. They are just excess weight and complications on a motorcycle. If you want to be on two wheels, you really should be competent at operating your vehicle. |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/12/14 at 18:18:19 I had an old Chevy P/U,, it had a clutch safety switch, but Id flooded it running thru water filled intersections & coasted thru, but thot maybe I mite not every time. I bypassed it & sure'nuff,, it koncked out one nite. I stuck it in first & hit the starter. Walked that dude right on out & I went to work drying out the distributor cap on dry land & outta traffic.. That whole "Neutral safety switch" crap was a lawyer driven load O crap.,, Grown ups dont need it,, In fact, Now that we are talkin about this, I think Ill ditch the one on my 87 F 150.. If the hydraulic clutch thingy takes a dump I can point it which way I wanna go & crank it up & rock on,, I had a clutch throwout rod die on an 18 wheeler once, waaay out in the boonies in West Texas. I stuck it in neutral, fired it up, pulled the kill till it stumbled, shoved it in gear & slammed the kill in & stepped on the gas. It untracked & we went HOME, Baybeee.. |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by WD on 03/12/14 at 22:07:45 0F362D377475440 wrote:
It IS going to fail anyway, replacing it gets expensive, and when it does fail I'd rather know how to bypass it and ride home than push it or call a wrecker. The nub in it is plastic and the unit is not water resistant, let alone waterproof. Another one of Suzuki's cut rate half a$$ed short cuts to mollify ambulance chasers. |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by Serowbot on 03/13/14 at 00:23:05 When my clutch switch went bad,.. it was few years ago... I didn't know what was wrong... It went slowly,.. with intermittent stalls and hiccups over a period of weeks... and I didn't know what was going on... It took me a month to find the problem... First thing, if it happens to you... You get sudden death,... and then restart and ride home... ... or "did that just hiccup?'... Check the clutch, sidestand, neutral, and thumb kill switches... Safeties can be a pain when they quit... and nothing lasts forever... |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by Kris01 on 03/13/14 at 04:56:10 I see your point now. Time for a little electrical work! ...errr, uhhh, preventative maintenance. |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch Post by Cookie1247 on 03/13/14 at 11:47:03 Thanks for all the comments... I do not care about the sidestand interlock. I can bypass this interlock and the engine should run with the sidestand up or down. It would be nice to have the neutral light working..What would happen if I just spliced the two blue wires at the diode?" From the diagrams. it looks like this would operate the neutral indicator light off of the neutral switch alone... |
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Title: Re: Neutral Switch- Conclusion Post by Cookie1247 on 03/14/14 at 04:47:39 I got the tank off last evening and found that the blue wire to the neutral switch was broken. Don't know how this happened but after splicing in a new wire, everything works properly... LG! Thanks for the suggestions! :) |
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