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Message started by Rush-rks on 02/21/14 at 11:50:59

Title: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/21/14 at 11:50:59

Hello everybody.  

I have 65747-94 Dyna coming for my 06 S40..$30.00 shipped from flea bay and from the pictures it looks perfect and the seller assured me that the baffles are not removed or altered.  

But I want to be sure I have everything I need before I attempt this.  As I will be nervous..I am not very mechanically inclined and I am a pencil pusher by trade but I would like to know a few things.

Do I need the ryca adapter that I have seen over various threads or can I used something else, or even a flexible adapter as seen in places as autozone?.  Also I am confused about the sizing?

Do I need to replace the crush gasket at the head and/or the OEM gasket between the muffer and head pipe?

Do I need to remove the exhaust completely or just loosen it at the head and outlined Serowbots instructions.  I have read his instructions 20 times and read probably 250 posts so I can get the jist of what I have to do.

And to bolt the Dyna to the new hanger, I need 5/16X2 carriage bolts to do that..from pictures I have seen rubber washers?

I am going to do this when I know I have everything I need as my stock muffers sounds like a WV beetle.

Thanks guys :)

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by 1st2know on 02/21/14 at 12:24:03

I just did this job, here is what I used:
- cobra 1.75 t-clamp
- cobra 1.75 heat shield.
- 5/16 grade 8 bolt for the rear hanger - I'm using only one bolt.

I couldn't get the tin can to wrap around the header pipe, so I used about 4 layers of aluminum foil. So far, no leaks. Cutting a tin can is a skill that I haven't developed yet :-(

Yeah, you have to remove the whole exhaust. When you install, you'll loosely clamp the muffler to the pipe (with gasket), then tighten the header, then the hanger, then the t-clamp.

Once clamped down good, test for leaks around the joint and at the header - I had a leak around the t-clamp that was obvious - I could feel it put-put with my hand.

The muffler install in the tech section was a good help. Read that a few times while you're waiting for delivery.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1298689417


Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/21/14 at 12:52:21


682A2D6B3237362E590 wrote:
I just did this job, here is what I used:
- cobra 1.75 t-clamp
- cobra 1.75 heat shield.
- 5/16 grade 8 bolt for the rear hanger - I'm using only one bolt.

I couldn't get the tin can to wrap around the header pipe, so I used about 4 layers of aluminum foil. So far, no leaks. Cutting a tin can is a skill that I haven't developed yet :-(

Yeah, you have to remove the whole exhaust. When you install, you'll loosely clamp the muffler to the pipe (with gasket), then tighten the header, then the hanger, then the t-clamp.

Once clamped down good, test for leaks around the joint and at the header - I had a leak around the t-clamp that was obvious - I could feel it put-put with my hand.

The muffler install in the tech section was a good help. Read that a few times while you're waiting for delivery.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1298689417


Where did you get the t-clamp and the head shield?  And you didnt use any adapter of anykind?

On your bolt..a carriage bolt? and what legnth did you use washers etc. and what did you do for your leak?

Yes I've read that thread probably 50 times I am concerned of getting good seal with no leaks, once I got it whipped I'll cover it up with a heat shield of some sort.  I'm not worried about it sooting up the rear brake I understand that it wipes off easily.  I have to admit the pictures I've seen with an adapter legnthening the muffler past the brake looks a bit better but all those threads a lot had issues of getting a good seal on everything.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by 1st2know on 02/21/14 at 13:07:30

T-clamp: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I59940
Heat Shield: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I5AR4G
For the bolt, I think it was 1 inch long, square head. You can re-use the original washer. There's a bushing and rubber grommet in the hanger that you will want to re-use.

I used the square head bolt as that allowed me to stick a flat head screw driver in the rail to tighten up the nut. A carriage bolt might work. You want to make sure that the head of the bold is on the narrow part of the rail.

It leaked whenever I tried to fit the tin can gasket in there. I could never get it to fit, so after failing twice, I used aluminum foil (about 4 or 5 layers. That solved the leak problem, but I'm looking for a better tin can to create tighter gasket.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/21/14 at 13:12:42


7F3D3A7C252021394E0 wrote:
T-clamp: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I59940
Heat Shield: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I5AR4G
For the bolt, I think it was 1 inch long, square head. You can re-use the original washer. There's a bushing and rubber grommet in the hanger that you will want to re-use.

I used the square head bolt as that allowed me to stick a flat head screw driver in the rail to tighten up the nut. A carriage bolt might work. You want to make sure that the head of the bold is on the narrow part of the rail.

It leaked whenever I tried to fit the tin can gasket in there. I could never get it to fit, so after failing twice, I used aluminum foil (about 4 or 5 layers. That solved the leak problem, but I'm looking for a better tin can to create tighter gasket.


Did you cut the slots in the muffler neck on yours too? Thanks.  Heading over to amazon to do a little shopping. ;)

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by old_rider on 02/21/14 at 13:54:09

It will have at least two slots on it when you get it, I personally cut 4 more, you might get away with cutting two.
Sounds like the tin foil worked if there are no leaks I wouldn't mess with it.
Better yet a combination of heavy duty tin foil and the can as a spacer might be a good deal too, what ever it takes to get it to seal is good as long as it is heat resistant and stays there.

If you are getting a tremendous amount of loud popping on deceleration you more than likely have a leak.

Just follow the directions as best as you can, no worries, its not rocket science and it sounds like you are getting prepaired.

Good luck with your mission..... this post will self destruct in 10 seconds.....9.....8.....7.....6..... :o :o

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/21/14 at 13:57:42


6D6E66706B666770020 wrote:
It will have at least two slots on it when you get it, I personally cut 4 more, you might get away with cutting two.
Sounds like the tin foil worked if there are no leaks I wouldn't mess with it.
Better yet a combination of heavy duty tin foil and the can as a spacer might be a good deal too, what ever it takes to get it to seal is good as long as it is heat resistant and stays there.

If you are getting a tremendous amount of loud popping on deceleration you more than likely have a leak.

Just follow the directions as best as you can, no worries, its not rocket science and it sounds like you are getting prepaired.

Good luck with your mission..... this post will self destruct in 10 seconds.....9.....8.....7.....6..... :o :o

;D ;D

Ok I had planned to cut the slots but wanted to be sure before I did.  Thanks

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Badass94Cad on 02/21/14 at 14:21:50

You don't need to remove the entire exhaust from the bike but you should loosen it from the head for adjusting the fit.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by bobert_FSO on 02/21/14 at 16:19:32

I would pull the entire exhaust. I had to do a lot of twisting to get the stock muffler off the header pipe.  I ended up putting the muffler in my vise so I could twist and wiggle the header pipe off.  I wouldn't want to do all that twisting on the bike, even if the header bolts are loosened. Accidentally snapping off a header bolt would not be fun.

No adapter/extension pipe for me. It did blow a little soot on the rear brake arm. It wipes right off.  I've used both a square head bolts (kept from turning with a screwdriver jammed in the rail) and  carriage bolts on the muffler. I used only one bolt for muffler to bracket.

I made the additional cuts in the muffler inlet. It makes for easier clamping.

Get the whole exhaust system installed and loosely lined up before tightening any mounting bolts. I then tightened the muffler mount, then the header bolts, then the header to muffler clamp.  Any small angle of misalignment at the header to muffler joint can be preserved if you put some extra slots in the muffler inlet tube.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/22/14 at 10:33:28

If the old muffler doesnt want to come off easy, youd better pulle the whole thing down & rassle with it. Those 2 flange bolts arent exacly honkin stuff,, theyre wimpy & you can wreck them & the gasket

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/22/14 at 15:46:11

I plan to take it all off before wresting with the muffler.  It looks a little rusty underneath I believe it will take some persuasion to get the old muffer off the headpipe.  I am afraid of damaging the headbolts at the head if I try to do it with the header on.  I don't have a vise I will just have to play tug a war.

Sunny 55 degrees here today..felt good to ride.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by pgambr on 02/22/14 at 22:05:12

Everything everyone said is correct.  The only item I will ad that helped was using a little squirt of PB break free spray.  I could get my muffler off the header pipe and it came right off.  I hope this helps.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/22/14 at 22:51:23

Ill add just Ooone more little thing.. IF youre havin trouble gettin the new muffler seated up AND you decide to do some grinding on the header,, Make darn sure the battery vent tube isnt ANYwhere near where the sparks are goin,, You CAN ask me how I know,, but thatd just be silly, now wooden it?
& FWIW, it sounded like a 22 went off..

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/23/14 at 07:40:30


5D4A4C404F5F2D0 wrote:
Everything everyone said is correct.  The only item I will ad that helped was using a little squirt of PB break free spray.  I could get my muffler off the header pipe and it came right off.  I hope this helps.


Thanks..I'll get some.  I already was going to get anti seize for the headbolts when I put them back on, read that somewhere that may keep me from damaging them.  Fortunately I don't have a torque wrench I'll just be sure no to overtighten them. Do you think I should replace the header gasket while I am at it or are they reusable?

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/23/14 at 07:42:03


544B4D4A5750615161594B470C3E0 wrote:
Ill add just Ooone more little thing.. IF youre havin trouble gettin the new muffler seated up AND you decide to do some grinding on the header,, Make darn sure the battery vent tube isnt ANYwhere near where the sparks are goin,, You CAN ask me how I know,, but thatd just be silly, now wooden it?
& FWIW, it sounded like a 22 went off..


Wow..ok gotcha.  If that need be I'll take it back off to make any adjustments.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Serowbot on 02/23/14 at 08:22:59

Header gaskets aren't supposed to reusable, but you can sometimes get away with it...
Just don't over-tighten to correct an air leak.. if you have a leak at proper tension,.. buy a new gasket...

I bought a new one and left the old one in place.. double gasket ensures that you don't bottom out on the bolts before reaching snug...
Not saying that's the right thing to do,... it's just what I did...
:-?...

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/24/14 at 06:12:24


4751465B43565B40340 wrote:
Header gaskets aren't supposed to reusable, but you can sometimes get away with it...
Just don't over-tighten to correct an air leak.. if you have a leak at proper tension,.. buy a new gasket...

I bought a new one and left the old one in place.. double gasket ensures that you don't bottom out on the bolts before reaching snug...
Not saying that's the right thing to do,... it's just what I did...
:-?...

Going to have a new header gasket on hand before I start just in case.

The muffler I should have next couple days I thought I would go ahead and cut those slits..about 3 cuts right total of (6) and about how down should I cut it?

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by old_rider on 02/24/14 at 07:09:41

Um... you cut the slits in the muffler... how you going to do that when you don't have it yet?

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/24/14 at 08:29:30


7271796F7479786F1D0 wrote:
Um... you cut the slits in the muffler... how you going to do that when you don't have it yet?


I know that is what I was asking.  I should have to muffler today or tomorrow and I was asking how many and how deep

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by old_rider on 02/24/14 at 08:34:31

Have you read this?

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1298689417

Its what I used for install guideline, you might have to adjust per muffler, but I got the dyna's online so I followed right along and it worked.


Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/24/14 at 09:42:04


5C5F57415A575641330 wrote:
Have you read this?

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1298689417

Its what I used for install guideline, you might have to adjust per muffler, but I got the dyna's online so I followed right along and it worked.


Yes I did several times.  I am just trying to determine how deep to make the cuts..from the picture looks like about 3/4 way down the inlet?

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Serowbot on 02/24/14 at 10:14:22

Cuts need to be a bit deeper than the width of the clamp you use...
1" or so seems okay...  it ain't that important..
Just enough to allow the clamp to squeeze...
6 or 8 slots will take away enough material to allow the clamp to neck down the muffler...



Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/24/14 at 11:00:55


584E59445C49445F2B0 wrote:
Cuts need to be a bit deeper than the width of the clamp you use...
1" or so seems okay...  it ain't that important..
Just enough to allow the clamp to squeeze...
6 or 8 slots will take away enough material to allow the clamp to neck down the muffler...


ok Thanks

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/26/14 at 17:08:21

Step 1 done..have muffler and cut the slots.

Got this clamp with it, what do you all think use this or order a cobra t-clamp?

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Serowbot on 02/26/14 at 17:12:58

you got it,.. use it...

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/26/14 at 17:38:37


3325322F37222F34400 wrote:
you got it,.. use it...


Ok Thanks will do..now to rumage through the garbage for a bean can :D

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by old_rider on 02/26/14 at 22:19:31

I actually had one similar to that, but took out the spacer between the clamp ends.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 02/27/14 at 04:52:49


686B63756E636275070 wrote:
I actually had one similar to that, but took out the spacer between the clamp ends.


I'll try that if it doesn't seal good first time.  By the time I get the bean can in there should be plenty for it to bite down on..I hope :)

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 03/13/14 at 08:40:29

I've been gathering up everything to make the muffler swap.  What do you all think of this coffee can to make a crush seal? It is tin enough ridges? Waiting on warmer weather to get here (and stay) to do this.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Serowbot on 03/13/14 at 09:20:46

Use a smaller can... that one is probably thicker tin and hard to cut and bend...
Never work harder than you need to... ;D...

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Rush-rks on 03/13/14 at 09:49:18


293F28352D38352E5A0 wrote:
Use a smaller can... that one is probably thicker tin and hard to cut and bend...
Never work harder than you need to... ;D...


OK thanks..I wasn't sure about the thickness will look for a smaller one.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by sesamestreet on 03/13/14 at 18:15:07

I used some red silicone from a tube for mine, is that bad?! did it over the winter. I also had to cut off some of my header pipe so the muffler would fit snug with the block on the header. That's where i used that silicone stuff. Still have to warm up the bike so the silicone sets into place

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Dave on 03/16/14 at 04:49:32

Silicone can handle temperatures that the engine block and cylinder head see - but the exhaust is way too hot for silicone sealant.  It works on exhaust headers on car engines because the block is a big heat sink that is water cooled.....but once the exhaust is out in the tube area he temperatures are just too high.

I really don't know if the silicone will hurt anything...but it will burn up and probably not help the seal anything.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by uigiroux on 03/17/14 at 12:43:20

I had the same problems installing mine.   I bought reducers which ended up not working and then I fashioned one from a crimped can as your being told to,  but nothing would stop the leaks,  and my exhaust was still just pointing directly on the rear brake line.   I called around here in Houston and stumbled upon a guy who builds his own mufflers which it turns out are quite well known in the motorcycling world,  Jemco Exhaust,  and I got him to fabricate a coupler that he cut from 2 different diameters of pipe and he put an angle on it,  I'd say between 6-10 degrees,  and just welded them up.   Then the difficulty was getting the muffler on the bracket as they were not lined up correctly.   So I suggested he take his gas welder and heat up my bracket and bend it to match,  which he did and it matched perfectly.   To secure it in he actually made a bolt from some thick metal plate he had and cut it so it would just slide in but long enough that when putting the bolt in it wouldn't spin around.   Now my exhaust is air tight and bent out properly,  it looks and sounds great.   Cost me $40.  That was money is rather not have had to spend I originally wanted to just do it myself,  but in the end I'm glad I went this route for such a good job and a proper running muffler and engine.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Dave on 03/17/14 at 13:08:39

As the previous post says....and angled adapter is the most reliiable method.  Here is a link to the dimensions you need:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1353284557

If you keep the adapter short like this....the standard mount works just fine.

You can also use the RYCA adapter....although it is about a 10 degree angle instead of the 6 dewgrees I used.  It is still closer than not usiing one.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by tarkm812 on 03/20/14 at 16:22:11

I bought a 1.75" exhaust extension pipe at Autozone and used Dave's measurements to make a piece.  I cut about 2/3 through and cut out the wedge to make the bend and had my friend weld the cut. I expanded the header end to fit the header with a small pipe expander. It tended to "scallop" the opening so I would stagger the turns by moving the tool.  It also wanted to taper the expansion since the tool was longer than the depth I wanted so I cut a small ring of pipe that I put at the end of the expansion wedges to allow even pressure. Dyna fits over one end perfect. Expanded end over header fit to size. Used t-clamps. After bike was up to temp I tightened down clamp at header and all trace of scallop disappeared.  I borrowed the tool but Harbor Freight sells them for about $15.  No leaks and just enough length to use muffler mount with one bolt.  Just experiment with the piece before welding to check the angle of the muffler and that you can line up the mount. Its regular exhaust pipe so needs some choice of cover but job is pretty easy to do if access to welder.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by sesamestreet on 03/22/14 at 20:27:33


467D7067767A61677C747966150 wrote:
Silicone can handle temperatures that the engine block and cylinder head see - but the exhaust is way too hot for silicone sealant.  It works on exhaust headers on car engines because the block is a big heat sink that is water cooled.....but once the exhaust is out in the tube area he temperatures are just too high.

I really don't know if the silicone will hurt anything...but it will burn up and probably not help the seal anything.
well it's specifically made to use as an exhaust gasket. does that make a difference?

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by S-P on 03/22/14 at 20:34:21

[/quote]well it's specifically made to use as an exhaust gasket. does that make a difference?
[/quote]

Hm. I've never heard of "exhaust silicone", but if it is good stuff it could solve some of the leak issues some folks have with the Dyna/Savage tube diameter issue.  A bead of that stuff around the "tin can gasket" and clamped in place might be a very cool thing. Let us know how it works out.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by sesamestreet on 03/23/14 at 11:17:13

yeah I pretty much cut the header so the dyna muffler can sit snug against the blocker on the heade pipe, and squeezed a clean bead of gasket around and sandwiched it between the two pieces of metal. Still haven't gotten it up to temp so it can cure since i did all this in november.

Title: Re: 65747-94 Dyna Install
Post by Kris01 on 03/23/14 at 16:03:33

Will the Ryca adapter help seal better than not having an adapter at all? I'm at my wit's end chasing a leak!

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