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Message started by DavidOfMA on 02/03/14 at 12:58:43

Title: Rust
Post by DavidOfMA on 02/03/14 at 12:58:43

Starting to see rust on most of the chromed surfaces. I recall that there are products that convert rust into some other iron compound that protects metal from further rusting. Anyone here know of such a product and/or tried it on the S40? Most prevalent in the exhaust, exhaust header, and exhaust shield, though I also see it elsewhere. Chrome on these bikes must be awfully thin.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by Cloudy on 02/03/14 at 15:07:18

Its been my experience over the years that Suzuki in general is bad for their chrome rusting.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by DavidOfMA on 02/03/14 at 15:13:04

Yeah, I gathered that. Must be some way to arrest it, though.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by verslagen1 on 02/03/14 at 15:22:21

JOG has been touting ospho for years. Use liquid not gel.

I don't know if it will penetrate thru chrome though.

The presumption is the chrome has a pin hole(s) and rust is bleeding thru.

If liquid can penetrate it as well may convert it. would require a good soak.

electrolysis may be another option as it'll dissolve rust into a solution to transfer it to a cathode/anode (one of the two). Then you'll need to seal it again.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by DavidOfMA on 02/03/14 at 16:58:18

From what I've read, the key ingredient is phosphoric acid. What isn't clear is if the iron phosphate that the rust converts to will be stable even when not painted.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by verslagen1 on 02/03/14 at 20:37:46

Well... it's gotta be better than rust.

You know where that's headed.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by pgambr on 02/03/14 at 22:17:25

I use some light weight steel wool for surface rust then I use this on everything. This is some real good stuff.

http://www.originalbikespirits.com/products/spray-cleaner-polish/

Title: Re: Rust
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/03/14 at 23:03:28

Aluminum foil & water, rub the affected area, for some reason, that knocks the rust down real good. I havent done it, others have & raved about it AND Rick on American REstorations showed it to us the other nite.
I keep a quart of Ospho in the shop. I get a coupla years or so out of it, I wipe rusting places & rinse them off after its turned black. If ALL the rust is gone, then theres nothing to turn black & its gonna rust right back up. Iron Phosphate isnt iron, nor is it iron oxide,, I havent done a real test to prove that its more stable & doesnt rust, but from what Ive casually observed, its a LOT better than raw metal. If ya use a brass brush it wont scratch the chrome. But, Id just hit it with the Ospho, Im sure its just starting, not deep enough to keep the chemical from reaching thru & thru the rust,
Wipe it, wait 24 hours, wet rag rinse, dry. If you dont like the look, brass brush to get the staining off the chrome around the rusty specks. Thatll leave a tiny dark dot. Ive done it several times, cant even see it on a walk by,, The guy who bought it didnt. I think youd need a magnifying glass to see it. Its a very dilute solution, so, it wont mess things up ( Tho Id caution against getting it on aluminum) I wear rubber gl;oves, cuz its not fun on the skin, The new name is Jasco, manufacturer sold out, same jug, same stuff,, lower price,,

Its always smart to test anything new on a small spot in an out of the way place,, Dont just go for the Gold here,, Ive been using pure silicone oil on car dashes & interior trim for many years. I Always test in a small out of the way spot on any new car I use it on,, I cant KNOW that the plastic in this car is the same as the others, now can I?

Title: Re: Rust
Post by Dave on 02/04/14 at 04:02:57

If I remember correctly, your bike sits outside with a bike cover installed. The chrome is going to rust, the clear coat is going to fail and the aluminum is going to corrode. These bikes are not very good at holding up in a wet environment. When I was looking to buy my bike I was surprised how much corrosion the used bikes had - even the low mileage bikes that sat inside unheated garages near the overhead doors showed lots of corrosion.

Either use the tin foil and water on the chrome - or some 0000 steel wool and Chrome polish to remove the rust. The alumium foil removes the brown but does not smooth the pits much - the steel wool and chrome polish does better on the pits. Then you need to get a good coat of wax on everything. The muffler and header pipe should not be waxed, and you should use BlueJob on that after the chrome polish and steel wool.

Unfortunately....if it sits outside....it is going to rust.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by DavidOfMA on 02/04/14 at 05:41:13

Thanks. I think I'll try the Ospho technique with either foil or brass scrubbies. I spent a while on the Internet looking for something more permanent, but the rust converters, which turn rust to magnetite, all seem to also include a non-heat-resistant polymer, so they won't help the exhaust.

Yes, my bike does sit outside, under a cover, in New England, where it is fairly wet. The clear coat had already started to deteriorate before I got the bike, and now it's a mess. That I'm not so concerned about, as I can always paint the aluminum. But I'd prefer to prevent the exhaust from rotting any more than it has to.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by Dave on 02/04/14 at 05:47:07

You need to be a bit careful with the rust "convertors". Most of them don't remove the rust - they convert it to a shiny black surface that can be painted over. You are not going to like the look of those shiny black spots on the chrome, and I have no idea how it will hold up on the exhaust.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by WD on 02/04/14 at 07:19:39

Once the cheap soft chrome starts to get rust oozing through, you ought as well dip it, strip it, and paint it. Once the pore is large enough, the chrome is going to start to bubble, and you'll end up sanding it off anyway.

My purchased brand new in 2/98 had rusty pipe and fender rails by 4/98. Gulf Coast, block and a half off the beach.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/04/14 at 08:17:59

Like I said, you eliminate the rust, then ospho does nothing.. it works on rust, so, if youre gonna polish it, ospho isnt gonna have rust there to work on, Id try ospho in a small spot, an unmolested spot, Then, after its had time to work, rinse it, then brass brush, that kills the rust.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/04/14 at 08:20:57

7E6167607D7A4B7B4B73616D26140 wrote:

Either way, you get the same "look", one way needs attention every coupla weeks, the other, every few months. & one way, "attention" = work, the other, attention = wiping it down.. Im lazy,,
Im betting that your chrome isnt orange, its still shiny with little dots showing up, right?

Title: Re: Rust
Post by Arnold on 02/04/14 at 08:55:07

Been using the aluminum foil ball with water for years, it does work.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by verslagen1 on 02/04/14 at 09:04:56

2E3B2023232A3B2A3D4F0 wrote:

Been using the aluminum foil ball with water for years, it does work.

I think the advantage here is a layer of aluminum is deposited on the chrome and especially in the pit.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/04/14 at 09:15:06

someone otta take an old set of bars or whatever & mark off areas & try different ways on one abused piece of chromed steel,

Hows that long term gas test coming? Who is doing that?

Title: Re: Rust
Post by WD on 02/04/14 at 09:36:51

57484E4954536252625A48440F3D0 wrote:

someone otta take an old set of bars or whatever & mark off areas & try different ways on one abused piece of chromed steel,

Hows that long term gas test coming? Who is doing that?

I've got a rotten set of 1970s Honda bars you can try it on... where are they being shipped to?

Title: Re: Rust
Post by verslagen1 on 02/04/14 at 10:11:13

This stuff might be interesting for a try as you actually are chrome plating the part and can apply it to a small area. Probably could use the same method to remove the rust 1st...

http://www.micromark.com/PLUG-N-PLATE-COPY-CHROME-PLATING-KIT,8327.html?vm=r
http://www.micromark.com/RS/SR/Product/83083_R.jpg

Quote:

Electroplate Small Parts at Home with the Plug N' PlateTM System

Plug N' Plate, a new concept in plating small parts, is ideal for vintage vehicle restorers, antique collectors and dealers, model builders, gun smiths, clock rebuilders, jewelers, prototype work and plating repair. Plug N' Plate is safe and easy to use: just clip one power supply output lead to your workpiece and the other to the plating wand. Dip the wand into the plating solution, then swab it onto your workpiece. You'll watch in amazement as a gleaming new finish appears before your eyes. Kit includes 120v AC power supply with low voltage output, 16 oz. plating solution, clip leads, plating wand and instructions.

#83083 Copy ChromeTM Kit is ideal for chrome plating small parts made of steel, copper, bronze, brass and tin. Also repairs small damaged areas of existing plating, like a small scratch in an automobile bumper. (Note: to plate die cast or pot metal parts, you must first apply a base of copper to prevent corrosion. See Micro-Mark #83248 Copper Plating Kit for details.)

Title: Re: Rust
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/04/14 at 10:12:05

Man, my health has gotten so bad Ive got projects unfinished, errands I need to run, Im not the guy. Im hardly even getting dressed most days, Ive driven my truck a whopping 1,500 miles in 10 months, 3 of those I couldnt drive at all, due to shoulder surgery. & somehow, I suspect your bars are so far gone it wouldnt allow for the goal I have in mind to be realized.
What Id like to see is how best & easiest to arrest the rust before it wrecks the chrome & which method takes the least time/effort to keep it looking decent enough to not be noticed on a walk by. I couldnt even see the specks after treatment, but the staining before was obvious.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by Dave on 02/04/14 at 11:46:53

I am the guy with the gasoline test.....the bottles are still in the woodshed. I thought about looking at them last weekend...but got busy. I will update that thread this weekend.

Title: Re: Rust
Post by Tempted on 02/04/14 at 18:43:36

Eagle One Never Dull. About 5 bucks a can at Walmart and is unbelievably effective in removing rust while not harming or scratching the chrome around the area. Its a polish that gives a very nice, fairly quick high luster to chrome. It makes polished aluminum look a little dirty but chrome looks practically new. It is extremely flammable. I tested that out last week while I was welding a reverse trike frame. I had been using the polish on a GS850 fender and forgot to put the lid back on. Some sparks hit the polish cloth and ignited the entire can instantly. Out of stupidity I attempted to stomp the can and put the fire out only to catch my boot on fire. Fortunately there was lots of snow outside the garage so I kicked the can out there and put out the boot fire out stepping into it. It was funny because I didn't burn the house down.