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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> run-start /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1391036046 Message started by Boogieman on 01/29/14 at 14:54:06 |
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Title: run-start Post by Boogieman on 01/29/14 at 14:54:06 So there's something going on with my electrical system. Basically every morning I have a dead battery. Yes I cud throw it onda charger every night, yes I could get a new battery, yes I cud go riding round all day till its nice and charged and then unhook it for the night and see what happens next morning.... but for some reason I just don't feel like dealing with it at the moment. So I turn her on, get her rolling, hop on, drop her inta first, pop the clutch and hit the start. Gotten dang good at. So....what kinda damage am i doing? |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by verslagen1 on 01/29/14 at 15:04:23 With push starting it? none as long as you don't land spread eagle on the tank, or run over your foot, or... or... 8-) It's either a dying bat or a loose connector. a dying bat that's getting charge, but just isn't holding it. or loose connection at the regulator (so it's not getting charged) or loose connection at the starter relay (so it can't get the signal to start) |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by justin_o_guy2 on 01/29/14 at 15:05:22 The charge circuitry isnt designed to charge dead batteries. Youre workin the crap outta the stuff,, Imagine taking a stone dead battery & putting it in your car & jumping it off every day. How long do you think the alternator would last? |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by Boogieman on 01/29/14 at 15:28:51 Lol....i wanna say ive smashed my nuts at least once. I don't know, I try not to think about it. But yall are right, I should just fix it. You really saved my butt with this regulator, i shouldnt be messing with it. Kinda cool that its not doing much damage though |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by Dave on 01/29/14 at 17:53:10 Are you turning the key to the Park position....that runs the tail light...instead of the OFF position? |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by Boogieman on 01/29/14 at 19:14:19 Nah, but good detective work. Ida never thought to ask that. imma go thruer 2mrrw. Gotsum new batts 4 my multimeter. So is it supposed to run like crap when you take one of the leads off the battery while running? |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by justin_o_guy2 on 01/29/14 at 19:22:07 Boyatsa tuffun rat there.. Mufrayed I justdo no.. |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by Boogieman on 01/29/14 at 19:30:15 Haha ya i been told it should run like normal wit one of the leads off. Honestly I think I've asked this question b4. I dont have the best memory. Huh.... I guess if I did I'd know the answer, ha! |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by justin_o_guy2 on 01/29/14 at 19:44:51 A car w/ a healthy alternator will run w/o the battery. I dunno if the bikes charging system is stout enough to fire the spark module w/o the battery involved,,Its pullin the lites, too. Hook the battery up & put the meter across the leads & goose it & see if the V climbs,, You need 12.5 on the battery to fire it off,,it can have a battery that spins it over & it can sound like it ottsta start, but it just wont. The electronics demand a hot bat tree.. So, if ya dont have one,, gitchya wun,, |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by Kirill Timofeev on 01/29/14 at 20:09:11 Afaik run-start is better to do on higher gears, not 1st. |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by Boogieman on 01/29/14 at 21:04:47 Really...why? |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by Serowbot on 01/29/14 at 21:09:12 Well.. you seem to be doin' fine in first, Boogie... I can't stop the rear tire locking up in first.... (not big enough, or bad technique)... If you are starting it okay in fist... then first is just fine for you... ;)... I can start a 250 just fine in first... :-?... |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by Kirill Timofeev on 01/29/14 at 21:15:48 2924242C222E262A254B0 wrote:
In 1st gear many engine revolutions result in small number of the wheel revolutions. This means, that for engine it is easy to rotate the wheel, but if we rotate the wheel it is hard to turn engine. By switching to higher gears we change ratio. It is harder for engine to rotate wheel, and it is easier by rotating wheel to turn engine. |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by verslagen1 on 01/29/14 at 21:32:33 7F697E637B6E63780C0 wrote:
You have a choice, either hit the start button to activate the decomp solenoid then pop the clutch to spin the engine. If your stock safeties are in place, don't worry about letting go of the start button as letting out the clutch turns it off. Just don't grab the clutch again w/out letting go. The other choice is to set the engine on the exhaust stroke. put it in a big gear and bump it forward till you can operate the decomp lever by hand. Now you're ready and no need to bump the start switch. And yes, I use 1st. If you get it rolling, the volts might not quite be up to snuff from pushing the start button. So it takes a few revs for it to spark again. In 1st, you have enough time for it to recover. Any other gear you're gonna be at a stop soon. |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by Dave on 01/30/14 at 04:44:31 626F6F6769656D616E000 wrote:
I wouldn't recommend doing that......it serves no purpose to do that and I have no idea what will happen to the charging circuit that is designed to have the battery connected into the system. You very well might burn something up. |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by Boogieman on 01/30/14 at 10:17:16 Kirill ~ oh ya..ya that makes sense. Dave~ oh im not runnin around with an unhooked batt. I just thought it was supposed to run fine w/o one. Thought that maybe be a clue into my electrical problem. Serowbot ~ ya every so often she locks up. What I have to do after i get on is kinda hop up and land with all my weight when I pop the clutch. I prolly weigh between 150-160...hmm...i dunno im kind of a fatty at the moment. Versy ~ Exhaust stroke, big gear, bump it forward, operate decomp lev? Hmm.. I don't understand why or how that works. If it's not too much trouble to elaborate I'd appreciate it. sounds like something I should know. Jog2 ~ hmm... I guess it would be kinda cool if I didn't need a battery at all.. but I got stuck in a lot of traffic last night and had to shut her down once in awhile so it wouldn't overheat. I thnk.. ya.. even though I run synthetic it would overheat just sitting in traffic for a bit right? It seems like it would have to be pretty cold out to be able to stand some of the traffic down here in SoCal. Normally I just go around or split but often times it's unavoidable. At any rate, I wouldn't want to have to keep starting it like that in traffic all the time. Last night i unhooked the leads, tested, she was 12.39 volts (the starter was trying real hard to turn the engine over at that voltage) then hooked up to the charger. This morn the charger was on float, unhooked it and read 13.24vdc @ 8:52am. Ever since then I've been hooking up the meter and checking it every 15-20min, and its been slowly decreasing. Its 10am and shes at 12.79. Is that normal? When I put the battery back in i'll rev with the meter and see what happens |
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Title: Re: run-start Post by verslagen1 on 01/30/14 at 11:44:55 Quote:
What you need to do is set the engine on the exhaust stroke. put it in a big gear and bump it forward till you can operate the decomp lever by hand. You don't have to hold it here, it's just to locate the exhaust stroke. By setting the engine to this position, you are doing the same thing the decomp does. The decomp takes the load off the engine for the 1st half stroke. If that 1st half stroke happened to be the compression stroke, the starter would just stall, or your back tire will skid regardless of what gear you're in. Once you get the rpms up to 300, the engine has enough momentum to carry it through the compression stroke. At about 12 mph, it's been said that's 1000 rpm. At 6 mph, you're doing 500 rpm, enough to get her rotating good, cough a couple of times, then lite the fires and go. |
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