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Message started by gizzo on 10/05/13 at 23:41:02

Title: Starting a flooded Savage
Post by gizzo on 10/05/13 at 23:41:02

So, I put a new Raptor fuel tap on the Savage. Now, if I forget to turn the tap off when I stop it, the float needle leaks a little and fuel goes into the airbox, and presumably, the other way too. Ironically, the old vac one works perfectly still. It's a bear to start when its happened (twice now). Anyone got Savage specific tips on how to get the thing going again? I needed to drain the float bowl, remove the spark plug and wind it over quite a bit before it cleared up enough to run. Guess I'll be changing the oil this week.
Got a DR250 with a CV carb too, it's a similar pain to start if it lies down and floods.
Cheers
s

Title: Re: Starting a flooded Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/06/13 at 00:19:50

Fix the carb..

Title: Re: Starting a flooded Savage
Post by SteveIsGr8 on 10/06/13 at 04:20:03

If you flood can engine with a carb the drill to start is typically to make sure the choke/enrichment circuit is off, then turn the throttle wide open and start cranking. Don't let the throttle off of wide open between the 3 to 5 seconds of cranking. Once the bike starts leave the throttle open until it clears and then it should be good. YMMV

Title: Re: Starting a flooded Savage
Post by Dave on 10/06/13 at 06:37:59

10372635260A3004317B430 wrote:

I am not sure this drill works with a CV carb. The drill works with a normal carb as holding the throttle wide open makes a big hole in the carb, and the venturi effect is low and little vacuum results....so the engine gets lots of air and very little (or no) new fuel. With a CV carb the slide stays down and keeps the vacuum high, and may still allow new fuel to be pulled into the flooded engine. It may however still work if the throttle butterfly does not direct the vacuum right at the idle circuit opening in the throat.

The best thing for you to do is fix your carb. When the needle and seat work properly - the bikes don't flood. I only turn my Raptor off at the end of the day, and I have never had a problem flooding when the bike sits. I also have gotten into a habit of turning the Raptor off a the end of my street when I am headed home.....the carb is out of gas by the time I hit my garage and the bike doesn't sit with much fuel in the carb while parked in the garage.

Title: Re: Starting a flooded Savage
Post by verslagen1 on 10/06/13 at 07:09:48

park it with nose higher than tail and if it leaks it will go into the airbox.

Title: Re: Starting a flooded Savage
Post by Oldfeller on 10/06/13 at 07:18:47

+1 on fix the float valve -- it isn't that hard.

Having a perenial float valve leaker on you hands is dangerous as you are only pacing time until you get a intake spitback with an air box full of gasoline.

Not funny -- not fun.

Title: Re: Starting a flooded Savage
Post by danjray on 10/06/13 at 07:47:42

I don't have a leaky carb currently, but out of curiosity, when you guys say fix the carb, what does that entail? So what part of it is broken to cause the sticky/leaky slide needle?

Title: Re: Starting a flooded Savage
Post by SteveIsGr8 on 10/06/13 at 08:03:47

645F5245545843455E565B44370 wrote:

[quote author=10372635260A3004317B430 link=1381041662/0#2 date=1381058403]If you flood can engine with a carb the drill to start is typically to make sure the choke/enrichment circuit is off, then turn the throttle wide open and start cranking. Don't let the throttle off of wide open between the 3 to 5 seconds of cranking. Once the bike starts leave the throttle open until it clears and then it should be good. YMMV

Title: Re: Starting a flooded Savage
Post by Oldfeller on 10/06/13 at 09:16:53

282D22263E2D354C0 wrote:

I don't have a leaky carb currently, but out of curiosity, when you guys say fix the carb, what does that entail? So what part of it is broken to cause the sticky/leaky slide needle?

Float needle assembly, to get to it you drop the bowl and tap out one pin to free the float, the spring retainted/assisted float needle assembly comes off with the float. The float seat.jet needs to come off so you can clean the little filter underneath it (this should be done assuming you find a lot of loose crap in your bowl).

Plan on replacing your weak headed allen bowl screws with stainless allen wrench heads -- not doing this spells trouble later on.

Title: Re: Starting a flooded Savage
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/06/13 at 09:21:01

& a little anti-seize on those bolts will help..

Title: Re: Starting a flooded Savage
Post by gizzo on 10/06/13 at 15:40:45

Thanks for the input, guys. I realise the best thing to do is to fix the carb. That means ordering a new needle (done), which could be a couple of weeks before it arrives. It's an easy job. The wide open throttle thing doesn't work with CV carbs (In my experience) and I am getting into the habit of turning the fuel off. Never had to do that with the stock tap, so I didn't realise the needle leaked until it started leaking, you know? By then it was already flooded. Best I came up with is take the plug out and crank for a wile to clear it. On the Up side, I have a few more chrome head covers for Dave's chrome armadillo if he comes to get them ;) They're not going back on if I cant get the plug out without pulling the bike apart.

Title: Re: Starting a flooded Savage
Post by Dave on 10/06/13 at 17:15:06

514B4F4D4C72435056504B464547220 wrote:

. On the Up side, I have a few more chrome head covers for Dave's chrome armadillo if he comes to get them ;) They're not going back on if I cant get the plug out without pulling the bike apart.

That is not "my" chrome Armadillo....that is Serowbot's idea! I got a couple to donate to him however.