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Message started by doctorpc on 10/01/13 at 08:06:24

Title: fuel conditioner for ethanol
Post by doctorpc on 10/01/13 at 08:06:24

Does any one use a fuel conditioner to deal with the ethanol in the gasoline and if so what do you use

Title: Re: fuel conditioner for ethanol
Post by Dave on 10/01/13 at 08:24:30

If you are riding your Savage and using up the fuel regularly....there is no need to treat the fuel.

If you are putting the motorcycle in storage or riding very seldom.....I would suggest you use the green Sta-Bil, Startron or a similar product designed for the storage of E-10 fuel.

Title: Re: fuel conditioner for ethanol
Post by rokrover on 10/01/13 at 14:39:30

The best cure for deterioration of fuel during long-term seasonal storage is to drain the tank and carburetor bowl. There's not much gas involved so I usually siphon / drain into a fuel can and blend into my car's tank. That way you avoid harmful byproducts from oxidation, water absorption and even microbes introduced as the gas tank breathes air in and out through daily temperature cycles.

There are many "snake oil" additives out there claiming to be the magic cure to perceived E10 problems like gum and varnish formation, corrosion and phase separation with absorbed water. It's best to read the MSDS to see what you are paying for. Many contain just a simple stoddard solvent (naphtha) or isopropanol and have little more than a placebo effect.

There's a good summary here:
http://www.fuel-testers.com/is_gas_additive_safe_with_e10_list.html

Bottom line, get fresh Tier-1 gas from a station that has a high turnover and you will be fine if used up in a month or two. Otherwise, at least drain the carb bowl with the little screw at the bottom - it's a simple enough precaution.

There's another ethanol problem, namely increased formation of intake valve deposits. So I blend Red Line SI-1 or Chevron Techron concentrate in all my vehicles periodically to counter clean these deposits that are especially troublesome if you have fuel injection. These additives contain PEA or poly ether amine that is proven to be effective and is already in Tier-1 gasolines like Chevron and Shell.

You can read more about the Red Line tech here:
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/S1-1%20Tech%20Info.pdf

Cheers,

RR

Title: Re: fuel conditioner for ethanol
Post by Dave on 10/22/13 at 03:34:34

My experience with ethanol and gasoline storage has led me to believe that if your bike is stored in an insulated, heated, weather protected garage or basement that does not have temperature or humidity swings, you are much less prone to problems. The stable temperatures do not cause the fuel tank to pull outside air into the tank, and the ethanol is less likely to absorb too much moisture over a few months of winter storage. Fuel stabilizer however is a good idea, and it is even better if you can use an ethanol free fuel for winter storage.

If you are storing your bike outside under a plastic cover, under a carport, in a metal shed or pole barn.....you are more apt to have problems. As the temperature swings occur - the tank can "breathe" in and out and pull damp outside air into the tank. As this happens over and over with temperature changes you may get enough water vapor in the tank to cause problems. Filling the tank to the top has always been recommended for storage as it leaves less air in the tank and this results in less venting during temperature swings.....and you should use a fuel treatment. If you can find a fuel without ethanol that is even better. If you are really a nutcase......drain the fuel tank, remove it and seal it in a plastic bag, and store it in your house until spring!

Title: Re: fuel conditioner for ethanol
Post by ZAR on 10/23/13 at 18:15:05

doctorpc I work in a large outdoor power dealership and we fight the ethanol problem daily. My advice to our customers is if the equipment is stored for 30 days it needs either fuel treatment or a "non-ethanol" fuel.

I suggest Startron for treating fuel. Even better is to completely drain the system of all fuel,then start the engine and run it till it dies. Then add some "ethanol free" fuel like VP Racings SEF(small engine fuel) start and run the engine for about 10 minutes to get the SEF well into the carb,then shut it down and store the unit as normal.

The SEF runs about $8 a quart can and is 94 octane. We've been using this to winterize our customers equipment for a couple of years now and spring start-up is a painless,trouble-free breeze!

Title: Re: fuel conditioner for ethanol
Post by engineer on 10/24/13 at 08:41:34

Dave is right about stable temperatures and humidity prolonging fuel life in storage and so to are the suggestions about draining the fuel system.

However sometimes neither solution is practical and Sta-Bil seems to work good for me. Keeps the fuel good through the winter and has improved the performance of my snow blower which sometimes sits most of the winter. Be certain to put it into fresh fuel only and run the engine enough to get the treated fuel down into the carb before storing.

I bought a fuel injected bike that has very few miles and was stored for several years but was started intermittently. It ran very rough. Before tearing into the fuel system I ran some fresh high octane brand name gas through it along with an octane booster that promised to clean the injectors and deposits on the valves. After running two tanks through it (about 350 miles) the engine vibration disappeared and it has more power.

The top tier fuel probably did the most good but I think there are times when a fuel additive really does help dissolve minor deposits of varnish and crud. I don't use it on a regular basis. Like some of you have said, if you can run an engine on a regular basis and use a quality fuel there usually isn't a problem.

I also started buying better gas for my car and it runs better now than it ever did in the past when I got all my gas at Speedway.