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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Some help with a part number please /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1380554812 Message started by doctorpc on 09/30/13 at 08:26:52 |
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Title: Some help with a part number please Post by doctorpc on 09/30/13 at 08:26:52 two quick questions I need tha part number for the oil filter cover O ring I want to replace it whe i do the oil change second I was told i should lube the control cables once a year (brake and clutch) how do i do that and what lube to use? thank you |
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Title: Re: Some help with a part number please Post by WD on 09/30/13 at 09:32:45 1st, good filters come with new o-rings. Unless they've changed a lot in the 3 years my bike has been torn down, even Emgo filters have new gaskets in the boxes. 2nd, whatever is handy. I like to drop the cables in a 5 gallon bucket of hydraulic oil or used engine oil and let them soak for awhile. Hydraulic oil will wick itself into every part of the core strands, and slowly leach out during use. Give a very long lasting result. Engine oil will form a very strong surface coat, but does not go as deeply into the cable core, nor does it last as long. Note, I live on a farm, so I have gallons upon gallons upon barrels of used oil on hand. Before I moved back here, I'd use whatever clean engine oil was on hand, 3 in 1 oil, gun oils... again, whatever was handy that stays slick. |
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Title: Re: Some help with a part number please Post by prechermike on 09/30/13 at 09:51:15 Doc, here is a way to do that without taking your cables completely off and soaking them in a bucket of goo. Certainly that will work, as WD says. This is a little more, uh, refined, and it looks pretty cool as well. I did this, not hard at all and I probably need to do it again. Mods, I looked for a sticky for this, but couldn't find one. It might be good to have one and put it in the table of contents on the tech page. Just a thought. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1237997098/13#13 |
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Title: Re: Some help with a part number please Post by Serowbot on 09/30/13 at 09:55:09 12... (09280-72001)...:-?... http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt82/serowbot/Savage%20Exploded%20Views/ls650-parts-list_52_zpse50d4947.jpg |
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Title: Re: Some help with a part number please Post by HondaLavis on 09/30/13 at 13:16:26 From "Off beat measurements and sizes" in the Tech section: 42544E415C4E42413B0 wrote:
There you go. <$1 at O'reilly's, you'll have what you need. ;)I usually get HiFlo filters which don't include the O-ring, FWIW. |
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Title: Re: Some help with a part number please Post by Gyrobob on 10/02/13 at 08:06:40 Here's a technique I've used several times over the past few decades. It seems like a lot of trouble, but once you do it you'll see it is not all that big a deal,.. Plus, I have never had to do it more than once on a given motorcycle, except for an 84 Gold Wing standard I had for 26 years. Take the upper end of the cable out of the lever. This is not mandatory, it just makes the rest of the job easier. Get a good quality can of spray chain lube,.. the kind that goes on wet, seeps in everywhere, and then dries out, leaving a synthetic lube coating everything inside. Glue the red plastic straw that comes with the can of chain lube to the end of the cable sleeve where the cable enters the sleeve with silicone seal. Find some way to hold the straw in position so it opens up on the gap between the end of the sleeve and the cable. The straw will be somewhat parallel with the cable. I just use masking tape to hold the straw in place. Put on a thin layer of sil seal. Let it cure for an hour or so, then put on another layer. Let it cure overnight. The purpose here is to make a leakproof seal between the can and the sleeve. After it is firm, wrap the joint with a few layers of electrical tape, shake the can a lot, and squirt the lube into the sleeve until you see it running out the other end. Let it dry for a few hours and do it again. The reason for getting so anal with the sil seal is so the runny chain lube is applied with a lot of pressure to give it the best chance to reach every speck of surface and cable inside the sleeve. Using a new can of chain lube with a lot of propellant in it really shoves that fluid everywhere inside the sleeve, and tends to grab particles/chunks/dirt/etc., and flush them out the other end. When done lubing, just peel/scrape off the sil seal. When a synthetic lube is applied this way, you probably won't have to do it more than once every decade or so. p.s. -- one guy I taught this to said after doing it a few times, he rigged up a welding vice grip (the kind with the wide flat plates for the gripping surface) with the gripping surfaces temporarily lined with a stiff 1/4 thick layer of neoprene or some such. he said he could clamp all the stuff together in two minutes that way, still achieving the hydraulic seal between the red straw and the end of the sleeve. I have not tried this,.. but it sounds interesting. |
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Title: Re: Some help with a part number please Post by Digger on 11/25/13 at 20:52:33 Another way to skin this cat.... I've got a cable lube fitting that is designed to be used with an aerosol can. I've had this lube fitting for about 40 years (the pic was taken when I was lubing the choke cable on SWMBO's KLR650): http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/Digger109/KLR650/ChokeCableLubeE.jpg That lube fitting is tits! |
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Title: Re: Some help with a part number please Post by Boofer on 11/27/13 at 08:54:04 Cable lubers come with lube for about $10 or without for about $6, but I prefer whatever procedure makes the biggest mess. :) |
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