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Message started by davidstipek on 08/29/13 at 00:37:59

Title: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 08/29/13 at 00:37:59

Hey Guys...
I have issue with Charging Battery (new Gel type 5Ma) Seems the best I can get is 11.4-8 VDC, until 4500 RPM then I get 12.4VDC. Same with or without Battery connected. Issue is bike is used for city rides, has Electric Start (new coil and starter too) so not to many stops and have to use "Old Faithful...(Kick Starter)"

I have spare (complete stator and coils) Ignition coil is OK. Charging/Lighting coil is Smoked! My stupidity... left yellow connected in harness to ACV when changing to total DCV for all components. Actually couldn't find it ... Got sidetracked by Cat and ...Smoked! 8-) See Picture... You can also see room left on coil to add wire...

Now... All 12VAC goes only to R/R, So Stator coil only needs to consentrate on the issue of "Charging".

Can I rewrap Coil as is done in Suzuki 650?  3 coils all connected at one end (common point) and the other 3 ends going to new 7 wire R/R? (Yellow leads) Then connecting 1 of the 2 red (+) wires to original red wire. The other 1 going to Red (power feed) @ Starter relay. Then the remaining 2 Ground wires 1 to common harness ground wire lead and the other to Battery frame ground Connection.

??? Will it work?

Originally coil is wrapped as 2.
Lighting coil is from earth to yellow lead (40.5' of 20ga wire)
Charging coil is from Yellow lead to White/Red stripe lead (23' of 20ga wire)

I have plenty of room on coil frame to add (I did already to check...Insure I was correct. Agin see picture) additional wire I was able to safly add 75' and still clear magnetic wheel and base plate (1/4'3/8" clearance)

So if I wrap 3 coils and connect as 650 Suzuki does... (Can't seem to be able to add a second picture here, I will add a post explaining...

Question

1. can I wrap as layered as original was done here?
or
2. do I need to wrap side/by/side ? (Example: XX|XX|XX) I have room to do either.

Thus making all 3 coils 46.6'

Now last question I know to use 7 wire R/R. But is common connection on coils... Grounded? or is it floated?

This point will make a difference in how I start wrap!

Help Please!!

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 08/29/13 at 00:48:11

Here is the Suzuki 650 wiring to see my plan of attack ::)
David

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Serowbot on 08/29/13 at 07:58:13

What is that?... it looks nothing like my stator... :-?...

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by verslagen1 on 08/29/13 at 08:30:28

Yep, I don't know if we can be of any help.
doesn't look like a savage
doesn't walk like a savage
and doesn't smell like a savage.

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Dave on 08/29/13 at 08:49:37

Nope....not Savage.  When you start talking lighting coil and charging coil.....you are talking Old School Enduro stuff.

You probably are just better off buying a used one......for whatever it fits if it is a common bike.  If it is from something rare.....then maybe it is worth rewinding - but I know nothing about how to do that.

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 08/29/13 at 09:14:18

Thanks Dave!

Bike was a 1998 Suzuki Crystal RC110Y Electric Start. Bike got the front end backed over. Was able to salvage 100% of the electrical and engine. Had in mothballs till I got the style frame built I wanted, then  set engine. Runs good! extremely well as I had taken the time to Bore and clean up exhaust and Intake. Rejetted engine and used the bigger 125cc exhaust (went from 7/8 OD tube to 1" ID tube, expansion chamber and can.

My issue is it charges just like suppose to do... But I don't want to run around town in 2nd gear @ 4000+ RPM. Understand?

I know how to wrap the coil, I just wanted a HONEST 2nd opinion (English Speaking One - Since I am in Thailand) if they though doing as diagram shows and going from 20ga to 18ga would increase charging rate @ lower RPM. So I used the pictures I did. I know the regulator in this rectifier combo will handle any excess voltage created, not worried there.

Also I want to thank you for your response!! I know it doesn't look like, act like, SMELL like a Savage, so tell your Mod's I agree with them 100% It smells sweeter... 2T oil and 95 octane... close your eyes and Dream. Engine actually is cleaner in Emmissions then when it was new. Engine was worth salvaging... Electric Start... Less then 16,000 KM's... Check the Pic... Good solid ride, actually I can change Bars and becomes a Bobber. Can move rear brake and shift to rear of bike also... 8-)

Again, Dave thanks for your Reply!
(Guess I'm the only one "Old School")
David

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Pine on 08/29/13 at 13:37:24

I know for sure we have had threads on re-winding the savage (consensus- not worth it).

I don't recall who was the expert. I do remember them saying that the Suzuki did all they could with the space allotted. So for a savage, going to a larger gauge, meant fewer windings, which equaled a zero-sum game.  Of course I have no clue how that translates to your bike.

Good luck, its a great looking bike.   8-)


Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Steve H on 08/29/13 at 15:00:47

More windings will increase the voltage.  Thicker wire, the amperage. A combination of both will increase voltage and amperage.  

Unfortunately, I am not a physicist, can't tell you how much or anything like that.  Sounds like you need your charging voltage to kick in around 2500 or so?  Somewhere around half what it is now.  Might smoke the regulator/rectifier if you wind it up.

Good luck with it.  Check out the guys over at fieldlines.com.  they wind coils for power generating windmills.  I know I've seen instructions on how to determine voltage per turn of wire and rpm, etc.  They are usually a great bunch and someone might be able to help you.

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 08/30/13 at 00:19:17


4871767D6C776A180 wrote:
I know for sure we have had threads on re-winding the savage (consensus- not worth it).

I don't recall who was the expert. I do remember them saying that the Suzuki did all they could with the space allotted. So for a savage, going to a larger gauge, meant fewer windings, which equaled a zero-sum game.  Of course I have no clue how that translates to your bike.

Good luck, its a great looking bike.   8-)



Thanks for the compliment on the Bike! Issue was here for years that bikes found here were under 150cc, then it gained to 200 and 250 as they were built here. Import tax on anything else to get here is 300% . Asean being afiliated here with all SE Asia Country and a few over Seas will eliminate this issue, alot of us can't wait! The only way arround this tax was to prove ownership for the last 5 years and show current title/license and Insurance. Then they look at you and ask "And... Why are you here then?" Most Immigration and Customs Officers don't have a clue... :-X

I answer... "I have a Wife and Family here, Anything more?" I ask in Thai and get suprised look on their face... Otherwise they still try to find issue to level a Bill (Fine) to collect more money (Duty) to "Save Face" with their superiors... ;D

I love this Country...... ::)

If you find Big Bike you can take USA Price x 2.5 or even 3 and get close to asking price here in Thailand. Example: If I bought Chopper from Orange County for $40,000 USD, here price would be equiv. to $110,000- $120,000 USD! Because they can, not Dealership.. They qwn Bikes They Imported them.. Crazy! So waiting 5 years, paying each year to get required tags. Leaves Money $$$ in your Pocket!



So in the meantime I recycled and created my own! ;D
David

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 08/30/13 at 00:29:45


6C772E2D2C2B29261F0 wrote:
More windings will increase the voltage.  Thicker wire, the amperage. A combination of both will increase voltage and amperage.  

Unfortunately, I am not a physicist, can't tell you how much or anything like that.  Sounds like you need your charging voltage to kick in around 2500 or so?  Somewhere around half what it is now.  Might smoke the regulator/rectifier if you wind it up.

Good luck with it.  Check out the guys over at fieldlines.com.  they wind coils for power generating windmills.  I know I've seen instructions on how to determine voltage per turn of wire and rpm, etc.  They are usually a great bunch and someone might be able to help you.


Thanks Steve, this was exactly, what I was looking for...
"More windings will increase the voltage.  Thicker wire, the amperage. A combination of both will increase voltage and amperage."

As far as smoking Rectifier/Regulator it is built to handle 6-11 pole systems. My 3 coil wrap even at a starting point of 2500 system will get ample wattage and volts to get above battery Voltage and maintain 12.5-12.8 VDC Regulator will and can dump the extra... If I run around with lights on... there won't be much to worry about anyway! This was or started as a "Far-out but Conceivable Idea from a Major Bike Manufacturer in America" Even after he Retired...  8-)
Thanks W.  

David

Title: Stators and Rectifier / Regulators Discussion
Post by davidstipek on 09/03/13 at 12:05:40

This seems to be an issue at time with everyone, including myself. Someone explain how to boost Amperage and Voltage at lower RPM?

I hve rewrapped My Lighting/Charing coil, going from a single phase rotor to 3 phase. Originally coil was wrapped with 2 coils. Lighting coil was 40.5' in length and Charging coil was 25'. I eliminated the use for the lighting coil as I switched everything to 12VDC. 12VAC only goes to rectifier.

I wrapped coil with 3 seperate coils 35' each. Wrapped them the same as original was done layering them and switching direction of each layer. Now I have a 3-phase stator coil.(3 outputs, all tied together and floated at other ends.) Why is voltage higher (also went from 20ga to 18ga wire)? and Amp gauge now shows 12.5VDC @ 1500 rpm? before I hd to be @ 4000rpm to get even 12.4VDC.

What did I do that corrected my issue, "Charging battery intown driving" Before Voltage was 11.8VDC from idle to 4000 RPM...?

Maybe someone can explain so others having this issue or simular can hve some insight.

I posted a picture of original coils on Stator... Oh... I also went to a 7 wire R/R it has dual red leads and dual ground leads / 3 yellow wire connections...
David

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Steve H on 09/03/13 at 15:39:26

Your voltage is higher because you have more turns of wire (length of wire)on the coil form per leg.  It is also higher because it's 3 phase being rectified to DC. You get a higher voltage out when rectifying 3-phase.

Your amperage is up because of the thicker wire.

To increase voltage, increase magnetic flux density, amount of wire in the coil, or speed of magnet passing.

To increase amperage, increase magnetic flux density or thickness of wire. Note that a certain wire size will only carry a certain amount of amperage before heating and burning out.  You have to balance the amperage out with the size of the wire so you don't burn out your coils.

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/03/13 at 22:09:05

I scorched my insulation just reading that..

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 09/03/13 at 23:15:49


6378212223242629100 wrote:
Your voltage is higher because you have more turns of wire (length of wire)on the coil form per leg.  It is also higher because it's 3 phase being rectified to DC. You get a higher voltage out when rectifying 3-phase.

Your amperage is up because of the thicker wire.

To increase voltage, increase magnetic flux density, amount of wire in the coil, or speed of magnet passing.

To increase amperage, increase magnetic flux density or thickness of wire. Note that a certain wire size will only carry a certain amount of amperage before heating and burning out.  You have to balance the amperage out with the size of the wire so you don't burn out your coils.


Steve
I agree that amps is up because of increased wire size. But Voltage? Before the longest coil wrap was 40.5' the other 25'. Now they are both 35'. Is the voltage increase because there is 3 coils now instead of the 2? I know this gives me a total length of 105' against where it was 65'??
David

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 09/03/13 at 23:24:15


6663746B6671766B726769020 wrote:
Hey Guys...
I have issue with Charging Battery (new Gel type 5Ma) Seems the best I can get is 11.4-8 VDC, until 4500 RPM then I get 12.4VDC. Same with or without Battery connected. Issue is bike is used for city rides, has Electric Start (new coil and starter too) so not to many stops and have to use "Old Faithful...(Kick Starter)"

I have spare (complete stator and coils) Ignition coil is OK. Charging/Lighting coil is Smoked! My stupidity... left yellow connected in harness to ACV when changing to total DCV for all components. Actually couldn't find it ... Got sidetracked by Cat and ...Smoked! 8-) See Picture... You can also see room left on coil to add wire...

Now... All 12VAC goes only to R/R, So Stator coil only needs to consentrate on the issue of "Charging".

Can I rewrap Coil as is done in Suzuki 650?  3 coils all connected at one end (common point) and the other 3 ends going to new 7 wire R/R? (Yellow leads) Then connecting 1 of the 2 red (+) wires to original red wire. The other 1 going to Red (power feed) @ Starter relay. Then the remaining 2 Ground wires 1 to common harness ground wire lead and the other to Battery frame ground Connection.

??? Will it work?

Originally coil is wrapped as 2.
Lighting coil is from earth to yellow lead (40.5' of 20ga wire)
Charging coil is from Yellow lead to White/Red stripe lead (23' of 20ga wire)

I have plenty of room on coil frame to add (I did already to check...Insure I was correct. Agin see picture) additional wire I was able to safly add 75' and still clear magnetic wheel and base plate (1/4'3/8" clearance)

So if I wrap 3 coils and connect as 650 Suzuki does... (Can't seem to be able to add a second picture here, I will add a post explaining...

Question

1. can I wrap as layered as original was done here?
or
2. do I need to wrap side/by/side ? (Example: XX|XX|XX) I have room to do either.

Thus making all 3 coils 46.6'

Now last question I know to use 7 wire R/R. But is common connection on coils... Grounded? or is it floated?

This point will make a difference in how I start wrap!

Help Please!!


I ended up doing this:
3 coils layered

     />>>>35'>>>>Yellow lead
Soldered   X[/s]<<<<35'<<<<=Yellow lead
               \ >>>>35'>>>>=Yellow lead
Seems to be working great now! Wonder why wasn't strung-up this way in beginning? Maybe Technology not here yet? I can't believe that as Production is always 4-6 years behind development!
David

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/04/13 at 07:16:29

David,, whats your career field?> YOu into electronics?

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 09/04/13 at 09:06:05


0B141215080F3E0E3E06141853610 wrote:
David,, whats your career field?> YOu into electronics?

I spent 35 years as a Field Warranty Rep. and Team Driver for Mercury Marine (Ran in most for the Sport and Family classes, ModVP and when they had OZ, also Formula 1 and Mod classes. I love 2 cycle as I raced with it my whole career. But you guys are on land, I was on water... 8-)

So I understand 4 cycle and 2 cycle engines. Since I had started 1968, we had 99cc 125 BP Stacker. Engine had exhaust plate removed and 3 - 24-30" chrome stacks, some had water injection to cool. As we were running AVgas or at that time Nascar Fuel... Exhaust got pretty hot... Was not uncommon if testing and running when it was getting dusk  :-X  to see blue flames firing from the Headers as you held it at WOT. ;D

Loved the smell and the crackle of the exhaust! (Avgas & 2T oil...)


Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 09/04/13 at 09:13:39


3E3B2C333E292E332A3F315A0 wrote:
[quote author=0B141215080F3E0E3E06141853610 link=1377761899/15#15 date=1378304189]David,, whats your career field?> YOu into electronics?

I spent 35 years as a Field Warranty Rep. and Team Driver for Mercury Marine (Ran in most for the Sport and Family classes, ModVP and when they had OZ, also Formula 1 and Mod classes. I love 2 cycle as I raced with it my whole career. But you guys are on land, I was on water... 8-)

So I understand 4 cycle and 2 cycle engines. Since I had started 1968, we had 99cc 125 BP Stacker. Engine had exhaust plate removed and 3 - 24-30" chrome stacks, some had water injection to cool. As we were running AVgas or at that time Nascar Fuel... Exhaust got pretty hot... Was not uncommon if testing and running when it was getting dusk  :-X  to see blue flames firing from the Headers as you held it at WOT. ;D

Loved the smell and the crackle of the exhaust! (Avgas & 2T oil...)

[/quote]
Justin O Guy2... should be my name... :D (Bet I'm older then you! I needed to know Electronics to do my job. Most of the Team Tunnelboat Drivers carried a spare Rectifier and Computer Chips in there cockpit to change if needed on the course. This was more likely to be so when running Marothons.. 1 hr, 2 hr, used to be 4 hr, 8 hr, and 24hr (Lake Havasu, Paris, London, Germany, Gulf of Thailand, Japan just to name a few...)

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/04/13 at 18:55:14

We certainly have some , well,, different people who ride these bikes.

Got an astronaut in Denver & a boatracer,, & all kinds of build it, make it work types.

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 09/04/13 at 22:06:56


3B242225383F0E3E0E36242863510 wrote:
We certainly have some , well,, different people who ride these bikes.

Got an astronaut in Denver & a boatracer,, & all kinds of build it, make it work types.

Well... What did you do?

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/04/13 at 22:28:19

I bounced around

USAF, Biloxi Miss 9 months, electronics, Navigational aids repairman
Stunk at electronics,, sent to a base with NO equipment! HUng out in radio repair doing mechanical alignments on some BIG transmitters.
2men to move the radio, 2 to move the power supply.

Roughneck, body man, some time in a machine shop, ran a warehouse, fixed copiers/cash registers/fax machines/calculators for 7 years
plugged & abandoned oil wellsfor a coupla years, was the mechanic there & did body work & knew how to repair triplex & centrifugal pumps from being a mechanic at The Western Company,.drove the trucks, 18 wheelers/80,000 pound stuff..
AF training made the copier/register job work out.. W/O that training I never woulda got that job,, & that was the best job I had.
Thank you Air Force.
I Aced the mechanics part of the entrance exam, made the lowest score (80) on electronics that would allow me to even be trained in electronics..But they wouldnt let me be a mechanic!
Learned to handle explosives plugging wells.Gotta shoot the casing off down hole..I can drive forklifts & we have a back hoe, Im  decent with it

PS
I dropped outta high school. AF policy was to nottake dropouts. I bugged the recruiter till he took me to take the entrance exam.,.I scored in the top 10%. He couldnt believe it,,

Please pardon the run together words, my spacebar is not working right.

You know, peoples work history can be pretty interesting,
I knew a guy in MIdland who worked for Centrilift, an oilfiled company, specializing in downhole pumps & controllers. He worked summers while in High School. Graduated, went full time & Never worked for anyone else. One employer! They thot somuch of him they sent him on a special assignment to Siberia. They sent him to Houston to be measured, then they shipped him a load of fur lined, extreme cold weather gear, tailor made for him. A year or so later they sent him to a One Man shop located a coupla miles from a lake, IDK if he is still there,but he said he would quit instead of accept another location. Working alone suits him & IDK anyone who doesnt like living where their front yard drops off from grass to water.

Ima start a new thread,,.

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Steve H on 09/05/13 at 13:47:27

David,

There are several considerations when winding 3phase and deciding what you want to get out of it.  Do you wind wye or delta? You wound wye from some of your following posts. When you rectify single phase, you get 1.44 times the AC voltage as DC.  When you rectify 3phase, you get 1.73 times AC voltage. The difference is due, from what i've read to the waves crossing at higher potential instead of at zero potential.

You said you scrapped the lighting circuit.  So, you never measured the output from it? Remember the output is AC until after the rectifier.
It appears you were using the shorter of the two windings to obtain charging voltage.

You added almost a third more wire per winding (nearly 1/3 more voltage out) and went to 3phase.
You have higher voltage because you are rectifying 3phase instead of single phase and because of more turns on the coil form.

Here's a little more information.  Took it from an explanation of building alternators for wind turbines.

The flux is the amount of magnetic field that fits inside a closed loop.  You don't need to know a number or measurement of flux directly, but I'll add that it is measured in "Webers" (named after Max Weber who studied it).  All we need is the electro-motive force that can be generated.  We measure EMF with our multi-meters as a voltage, but ONLY when no current flows.

The formula you need:

EMF = N*F*f*2       Where:

  N = Number of turns in the coil
  F = the maximum Flux in the coil
  f  = frequency of change of polarity N-S

In the alternator, the poles pass N to S and N and so on.  One cycle N-S-N will flip the field direction, and hence the flux from N to S to N, and the EMF makes a sine wave.  Since the flux at the N pole was reduced to zero, then reversed to S, the total flux reversal is twice the amount Flux on one pole.  Each magnet is a pole, and most of these alternators have a dozen or so magnet poles.  Also, with increasing speed, the flux flips faster, and that makes much more EMF.

The other factor in the equation is N number of turns of wire.  Adding turns of wire increases the EMF (and open-circuit voltage).


Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/05/13 at 22:48:01

Theres a sound from a cartoon that comes to mind.. Its the one used when the goofy guy gets hit in the head..I heard it while reading that post,, not that the post is silly or anything, just stretched my brain out & when it snapped back, everything went all wobbly,,

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Steve H on 09/06/13 at 03:58:37

I felt the same way the first several times I read it.  Had to let it sink in slow, you know.  Took a while to get my head wrapped around it...now, it just makes sense.

I hope I didn't confuse David too bad.  It was meant to be informative.  He did say he wanted to know why.

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Charon - FSO on 09/06/13 at 07:16:01

If you want the basic physics - Every time a conductor (the turn of wire in the coil) cuts a magnetic line of flux, an electromotive force (EMF) is generated. EMF is measured in volts. If there are more turns in series, more voltage is generated. So, more turns on the coil gives more voltage. If there are more flux lines (the magnetic field is stronger) more voltage is generated, since the coil cuts more lines. If the speed of the coil is increased it cuts more lines per unit time, so more voltage. This voltage is always alternating, even in so-called DC generators. The DC generator simply uses mechanical switching in the form of its commutator and brushes to rectify the AC into DC.

The magnetic field can be supplied by permanent magnets, the way most motorcycles do it. Or it can be supplied by electromagnets, the way is it usually done in automotive alternators. The magnetic field cannot be controlled using permanent magnets, so excess power is "wasted" in motorcycles. This is also why they are designed to produce only the amount of power needed. Electromagnets as in automotive alternators are controlled by the voltage regulator so as to make the alternator produce only what is needed. The complication is the need for brushes and slip rings to get the current into the electromagnets in the armature.

You probably don't want to know it, but these physics are why electric guitars tend to sound "twangy." The higher notes are produced by strings vibrating faster, thus cutting more of the magnetic lines from the pickup, thus generating higher voltage on higher notes.

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Steve H on 09/06/13 at 07:24:18

I knew we had to have someone who understands physics out here. ;D

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 09/06/13 at 09:57:58


766D34373631333C050 wrote:
David,

There are several considerations when winding 3phase and deciding what you want to get out of it.  Do you wind wye or delta? You wound wye from some of your following posts. When you rectify single phase, you get 1.44 times the AC voltage as DC.  When you rectify 3phase, you get 1.73 times AC voltage. The difference is due, from what i've read to the waves crossing at higher potential instead of at zero potential.

You said you scrapped the lighting circuit.  So, you never measured the output from it? Remember the output is AC until after the rectifier.
It appears you were using the shorter of the two windings to obtain charging voltage.

You added almost a third more wire per winding (nearly 1/3 more voltage out) and went to 3phase.
You have higher voltage because you are rectifying 3phase instead of single phase and because of more turns on the coil form.

Here's a little more information.  Took it from an explanation of building alternators for wind turbines.

The flux is the amount of magnetic field that fits inside a closed loop.  You don't need to know a number or measurement of flux directly, but I'll add that it is measured in "Webers" (named after Max Weber who studied it).  All we need is the electro-motive force that can be generated.  We measure EMF with our multi-meters as a voltage, but ONLY when no current flows.

The formula you need:

EMF = N*F*f*2       Where:

  N = Number of turns in the coil
  F = the maximum Flux in the coil
  f  = frequency of change of polarity N-S

In the alternator, the poles pass N to S and N and so on.  One cycle N-S-N will flip the field direction, and hence the flux from N to S to N, and the EMF makes a sine wave.  Since the flux at the N pole was reduced to zero, then reversed to S, the total flux reversal is twice the amount Flux on one pole.  Each magnet is a pole, and most of these alternators have a dozen or so magnet poles.  Also, with increasing speed, the flux flips faster, and that makes much more EMF.

The other factor in the equation is N number of turns of wire.  Adding turns of wire increases the EMF (and open-circuit voltage).

Thanks!
I will try to answer each section you wrote here:

There are several considerations when winding 3phase and deciding what you want to get out of it.  Do you wind wye or delta? You wound wye from some of your following posts.

Yes I wound Wye

When you rectify single phase, you get 1.44 times the AC voltage as DC.  When you rectify 3phase, you get 1.73 times AC voltage. The difference is due, from what i've read to the waves crossing at higher potential instead of at zero potential.

You said you scrapped the lighting circuit.  So, you never measured the output from it?

I couldn't as coil was smoked (I had forgot to clip the AC Feed to the lights... when I added lighting circuit to DCV... actually I couldn't find it so I had to open Harness and locate

Remember the output is AC until after the rectifier.
It appears you were using the shorter of the two windings to obtain charging voltage.

The longer feed was attached to white/red stripe which was lighting circuit 40.5' from here it attached to yellow lead 23' (Charging) I ws under the impression that charging it uses the combined lengths
WRONG?


You added almost a third more wire per winding (nearly 1/3 more voltage out) and went to 3phase.

I ended up doing coil wraps side35'/by35'/side35' with 1/16th wall plastic between. I did alternate directions of wraps. Starting the same direction as original wrap. But I also went to 18ga wire instead of 20ga.

You have higher voltage because you are rectifying 3phase instead of single phase and because of more turns on the coil form.

I was also told that the 7 wire Suzuki R/R ws way more then I needed as I was dealing with 4 magnets in Rotor (4 pole). So not to worry about creating to much of anything and smokin the R/R.

Here's a little more information.  Took it from an explanation of building alternators for wind turbines.

The flux is the amount of magnetic field that fits inside a closed loop.  You don't need to know a number or measurement of flux directly, but I'll add that it is measured in "Webers" (named after Max Weber who studied it).  All we need is the electro-motive force that can be generated.  We measure EMF with our multi-meters as a voltage, but ONLY when no current flows.

The formula you need:

EMF = N*F*f*2       Where:

  N = Number of turns in the coil
  F = the maximum Flux in the coil
  f  = frequency of change of polarity N-S

In the alternator, the poles pass N to S and N and so on.  One cycle N-S-N will flip the field direction, and hence the flux from N to S to N, and the EMF makes a sine wave.  Since the flux at the N pole was reduced to zero, then reversed to S, the total flux reversal is twice the amount Flux on one pole.  Each magnet is a pole, and most of these alternators have a dozen or so magnet poles.  Also, with increasing speed, the flux flips faster, and that makes much more EMF.

The other factor in the equation is N number of turns of wire.  Adding turns of wire increases the EMF (and open-circuit voltage)

Hey everyone, First let me appologize! I know this is not a Suzuki 650/S40... But it is a Younger (Smaller Brother) Here I had to work this what we had.. Unless you has a Zillion Dollars to spend on Importing a Bigger Machine... you were stuck with what was here. :o I bet my 65 1/2" wheel base make it bigger... 8-)

So If you nominate Me to be an Honorary Member... ;D Suzuki sent me some small chrome (ABOUT AN INCH HIGH) Badges the say "Suzuki" I believe they were from Auto line... :)

Also to the Professor out there who did such a wonderfull explaination... Yes I did understand every word! Wasn'rt so much differen't from the 2 Cyle Outboards I raced for 35 years  ;D


Thanks again!
David

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Steve H on 09/07/13 at 19:29:44

Hi David,

The original double coil setup could have been used as a 2 phase charging system.  Or, much more common, the lighting coil just ran the lights and the other coil put out the charging power.

How did the coils terminate? Did the ends of both coils go to ground? Were the coils grounded in the middle between the two?

What you have come up with is 3 phases but with the phases at 0º (2) and at 180º (1).

Check the diagram.  Please forgive my drawing inabilities but you'll get the general idea. In order to get true 3phase, you need 3 separate magnetic field crossings at 120º apart. You have only 1 pickup with 3 windings with one winding 180º from the other two.  I am not sure what you would call this...maybe 3 single phases.

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Steve H on 09/07/13 at 19:40:40

A true 3phase will look something like this graphic.  You will note that the waves cross about 1/3 of the way up and down from center.  This is where the 1.73 instead of 1.44 comes from when you rectify 3phase.  The wave crossings are at potential instead of zero.

You should be getting roughly 3 times the wattage that you would with a single winding.  The additional voltage, I would have to say, is coming from the extra length of the coils since your waves are still crossing at 0 potential.

Did you ground the 3 ends that are together? If they are floating, you probably have two windings that are essentially in series when generating giving you double the voltage and one winding that is cancelling out against the other two.  If they are grounded, you should have essentially 3 single phases all working together to provide additional amperage at the voltage of any single coil.

I hope I'm making some sense here.  If anyone sees any flaw in what I am saying, please feel free to jump in and issue corrections.

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Steve H on 09/07/13 at 20:00:46

I don't know about everybody else.  I don't care what you ride, long as you're riding and enjoying yourself.  I'm always happy to try to help anyone who wants it.  I think you've done a great job on the bike. Looks like you've put in a lot of time and effort to get where you are with it.

Are you getting enough wattage to charge the battery and run the lighting at a reasonable engine speed? Is this guy running points or is it electronic ignition?  I was just looking at the pics to see if there was a way to grab an extra coil form and try to get true 3phase out of it.  Doesn't look like the mounts are there. Looks like a magneto coil and the charging coil.  I've seen some bases that had additional mounts and the wiring could be different depending on the requirements of the bike.

Anyway, great work on the bike. :D

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 09/08/13 at 08:01:58


6A71282B2A2D2F20190 wrote:
I don't know about everybody else.  I don't care what you ride, long as you're riding and enjoying yourself.  I'm always happy to try to help anyone who wants it.  I think you've done a great job on the bike. Looks like you've put in a lot of time and effort to get where you are with it.

Are you getting enough wattage to charge the battery and run the lighting at a reasonable engine speed? Is this guy running points or is it electronic ignition?  I was just looking at the pics to see if there was a way to grab an extra coil form and try to get true 3phase out of it.  Doesn't look like the mounts are there. Looks like a magneto coil and the charging coil.  I've seen some bases that had additional mounts and the wiring could be different depending on the requirements of the bike.

Anyway, great work on the bike. :D


Steve this will answer all 3 of your posts  ;D

1. This Suzuki had CDI internally in Ignition coil. Basicly the black coil you see in diagrams fed Black/red stripe to Ignition coil. there is also a ground connection, these are the only 2 inputs... HV cable (output) feed Spark plug (I tried to attach a diagram of coil)

2. Coils were wound starting 1st coil... Ground connection, then 40.5' wire wrap attached to yellow lead and 2nd coil. 2nd coil 23' and soldered to white red stripe lead.

So  originally the coils were layered on top of each other. with 20g wire.

I used 18g and wound 3 coils, side by side with somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8" plastic seperator to isolate from each other. because if you look closely at coil it is not fully wound. I filled base to top in each section using 30-35' wire. Switching wrap direction as I went along. First coil started clockwise. Holding base with outside curved metal ends away from me, started on left side (as original had done) and wrapped away from me and and under and back around again (sounds stupid - don't known any better way to explain) This was clockwise, so the 2nd coil went counterclockwise and then back to clockwise again...

Originally Suzuki had used a total of 63.5'. I used 105' also 18g instead of 20g. Even if it is 3 leads of single phase... I am using a Suzuki 7 wire R/R
3 yellows connect to my coil (Mess ::) ) 2-red leads one to Positive battery circuit the other to Starter coil. 2-black leads one to Negative battery circuit the other to frame ground (to dump excess Voltage.)

# common end to all 3 coils is grounded, The way I wound it I could either float or ground... It seemed to work better grounded.

I just switched today to a 50/50w Blue Halogen Headlight did have a 25w/25w standard bike bulb. Works great! no flickering when Idleing, no dimming when starting bike... (I also replaced battery again incase it had bad cell seemed to need 1-2 hrs recharge @ 5amps to get full each night. before... now No!)
David

(Thanks Guys!       I think it needs the new style Harley Bars or bobber bars on it so I would lean forward... whats everyone think??)

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by Steve H on 09/08/13 at 08:31:39

Hi David,

The 3phase rectifier will rectify either single, 2, or 3 phase depending on how many wires you connect to it. With less that 3 phases, you just use part of the rectifier instead of all of it.  As long as the voltage is high enough the regulator doesn't care, it will work.

Sounds like you did a great job getting it to do what you needed without a lot of fuss or modification. Glad to hear everythign is working well.

As to the handlebaars.  I think either will look good on it. I have always been partial to bars that let me sit pretty much upright.  I don't like leaning much forward and can't stand leaning back because of the bars. I like the bar ends in a nice, natural position to prevent wrist strain. I have carpal tunnel in both wrists and my hands go numb quickly if the wrists are not just right. I pulled off the stock pullback bars from my savage and replaced them with some Harley bars as soon as I could. Got the bars at a swap meet for $5 too.

Title: Re: Rewinding Stator.. Help Please!!
Post by davidstipek on 09/08/13 at 20:55:19


29326B68696E6C635A0 wrote:
Hi David,

The 3phase rectifier will rectify either single, 2, or 3 phase depending on how many wires you connect to it. With less that 3 phases, you just use part of the rectifier instead of all of it.  As long as the voltage is high enough the regulator doesn't care, it will work.

Sounds like you did a great job getting it to do what you needed without a lot of fuss or modification. Glad to hear everythign is working well.

As to the handlebaars.  I think either will look good on it. I have always been partial to bars that let me sit pretty much upright.  I don't like leaning much forward and can't stand leaning back because of the bars. I like the bar ends in a nice, natural position to prevent wrist strain. I have carpal tunnel in both wrists and my hands go numb quickly if the wrists are not just right. I pulled off the stock pullback bars from my savage and replaced them with some Harley bars as soon as I could. Got the bars at a swap meet for $5 too.


Thanks Steve!

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