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Message started by Badass94Cad on 08/03/13 at 05:50:14

Title: Broken Exhaust Header Bolt
Post by Badass94Cad on 08/03/13 at 05:50:14

I've noticed different times I was working on the bike that 1 of the exhaust header bolts spun freely, whereas the other got hung up.  It wasn't seized but it wasn't right either.  The other day I'm working on it and figure I need to get this bolt out once and for all.  Well, it broke flush with the head.

I drilled it out, and tried a bolt extractor to no avail.  I'm about to get froggy with the torch.  :o  Any other suggestions?

I've seen this mentioned as a problem in the forums, but couldn't find a "solution."  Also, what bolts to replace these with?  I suspect the acorn cap screws would be hard to replace, or should I just order stock replacements from Suzuki?

Title: Re: Broken Exhaust Header Bolt
Post by Badass94Cad on 08/03/13 at 09:44:21

No luck with the torch.  :-[

Drill and tap?  Drill and HeliCoil?

Title: Re: Broken Exhaust Header Bolt
Post by WD on 08/03/13 at 10:09:14

Drill it close and pick the remnants out. Replace the goofy stock bolts with stainless steel, brass or bronze studs and nuts. Loctite the studs into the head. Anti-sieze on the nuts. Very 1930s Chrysler L6 manifold-esque... Works great and looks kinda cool.

Title: Re: Broken Exhaust Header Bolt
Post by Badass94Cad on 08/03/13 at 14:06:38


4B581C0 wrote:
Drill it close and pick the remnants out. Replace the goofy stock bolts with stainless steel, brass or bronze studs and nuts. Loctite the studs into the head. Anti-sieze on the nuts. Very 1930s Chrysler L6 manifold-esque... Works great and looks kinda cool.


That's exactly what I'm in the process of doing now.  8-)  I've got the hole pretty good, and I've got the tap ready to go.  I'd prefer not to HeliCoil if I can get it clean enough.  I have at least half the bolt out, so not too much of the hole should be boogered up...hopefully.  ::)

Thanks for the feedback.  I'll report on my success, or continued failure.  ;D

Title: Re: Broken Exhaust Header Bolt
Post by Badass94Cad on 08/11/13 at 04:52:22

I should follow this up with some details to save the next guy some time and aggravation.  8-)

The bolts that hold the header on are M8x1.25.  Since the bolt extractor didn't work, even with heat, I stepped up drill bit sizes until 9/32", where I was able to remove the remaining bolt material.  (8mm = 5/16, but this would damage any existing threads, and I didn't want to do that).  I was able to tap the hole and it wasn't bad.

I got some stainless steel bolts (stainless all-thread isn't the easiest to find, but the local Sears Hardware has a good selection of stainless hardware), cut off the heads, and ran a dye down the threads to make sure they were clean.  Apply a little Lock-Tite to the base threads that screw into the head, tighten down, and install header using stainless nuts and washers.

Everything buttoned up nicely.  I slapped in a new donut gasket for good measure.  No leaks, no fuss, had a great ride testing it for issues.

One other note, while I had the exhaust apart, I figured it would be a good time to punch a 3/8" hole through the Dyna baffle.  It sounds so much better.  ;)

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