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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Verslavy installation /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1374495380 Message started by Toroso on 07/22/13 at 05:16:20 |
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Title: Verslavy installation Post by Toroso on 07/22/13 at 05:16:20 I've finally got all the parts and stuff to do an oil change and install the Verslavy tensioner. I assume it is simply replacing the existing tensioner. Seems fairly straightforward. Any gotchas I should look out for? |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by swedishbiker on 07/22/13 at 05:42:17 I did this few days ago. Just be carefully with the gasket so you have sealer on right place and put on the clutch wire first so it comes correct, before you tighten the bolts. Takes less then 2 hour. |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by youzguyz on 07/22/13 at 05:47:24 Plug the "rabbit holes" that lead to the bottom of the crank case with rags or something. If you don't, it's a promise some little bolt will go shooting in there. And have the right tool for the cir-clip that holds the tensioner on the shaft. And have a clear and clean field of work for when that thing slips and takes off to parts unknown. |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/22/13 at 06:43:52 Easy to get the loop upside down the clutch cable hooks in, |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by verslagen1 on 07/22/13 at 07:34:27 524D4B4C51566757675F4D410A380 wrote:
Easy to fix too, just put a cresant wrench on the lever and swing it up till you can flip the loop. check the clutch lever position before you take it apart, if it's high you might consider changing the rod too. |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by Toroso on 07/30/13 at 02:25:29 Alright, I got started on this last night. Drained the oil and removed the filter. Unbolted the front heat shield and brake pedal. Dropped the exhaust. Removed the clutch cover and called it a night. The gasket was on the case side and mostly came off. What is the best way to remove the remaining parts? The cam chain tensioner appears to be slightly bowed, will measure how far out it is tonight. (19K miles) I briefly looked in the clutch cover for how the clutch works and did not see anything obvious. How does this go back together? Most bolts came out easily but there were no oil or exhaust leaks. The hardest bolts to break were the drain plug (14mm) and the oil filter cover allen screws. |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by Dane Allen on 07/30/13 at 08:43:17 427964796579160 wrote:
Were you able the save the gasket? Make sure the pin in the center of the clutch is seated properly when you replace the cover. It slides out easy so be careful ;) |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by Toroso on 07/30/13 at 09:01:18 50757A71557878717A140 wrote:
No, the gasket came apart, but I have a new one. The clutch part is what I am curious about. First time doing this. I have not removed the clutch cable from the the clutch cover. Should it just go right back on or is there something that needs to be lined up/connected? |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by verslagen1 on 07/30/13 at 14:51:32 nope, make sure the clutch rod is in the hole and as you're sliding the clutch cover home, make sure the clip for the clutch cable is up. but no problem if it's down, just swing the lever up till you can flip the clip. |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by Toroso on 07/30/13 at 18:19:44 All righty then. The Verslavy (?) is in! The darndest thing about this whole operation was the blah blah circlip! Mounted the exhaust and poured in some Rotella T (if the synthetic T6 is better I'll go with that from here on) and cranked her up. No exhaust leaks, no oil leaks so far. Sounds good except for a new ticking sound around the head. I'm assuming for now that may be an oil issue since I let it drain all night and all day. I'll check again tomorrow evening before replacing the foot peg/brake/ heat shield. Replaced the stock rear heat shield with a universal for a more streamlined look with the Dyna muffler. Friday she is getting new footwear, a set of Shinko 712s. |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by Dane Allen on 07/31/13 at 16:35:15 566D706D716D020 wrote:
Wait, you started the engine with the foot pegs off?? I'm a newbie myself but isn't the crank case a split case and held together, in part, by the foot pegs? :-? |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by WD on 07/31/13 at 16:38:21 47626D66426F6F666D030 wrote:
Wait, you started the engine with the foot pegs off?? I'm a newbie myself but isn't the crank case split and held together, in part, by the foot pegs? :-? [/quote] YES, it is. Bad idea, very quick way to blow out an inner gasket or "tweak" the cases enough to get a base gasket leak. If you do start it this way, make sure the spacers are in place, use a stack of washers in place of the peg mount. No risk that way. |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by Toroso on 07/31/13 at 16:41:50 5C79767D5974747D76180 wrote:
Wait, you started the engine with the foot pegs off?? I'm a newbie myself but isn't the crank case a split case and held together, in part, by the foot pegs? :-? [/quote] LOL, I get your point. I read them as being mounts more than securing the case. Maybe someone will elucidate us... |
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Title: Re: Verslavy installation Post by WD on 07/31/13 at 16:46:21 The spacers between the frame and engine not only take up space, they keep the front of the inner cases stuck tight to each other. AND, these bikes can drip oil like mad with the front lower bolt out. Not sure why, but pretty common, if you see a base leak, check the foot peg mounting bolts/nuts. Have never necropsied (autopsied) a Savage engine, haven't managed to blow mine up yet... and that is rare, I wore out the bottom end of a liquid cooled bike, to the point of rod knock. |
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