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Message started by Garrett on 06/09/13 at 23:50:59

Title: Bobber build help
Post by Garrett on 06/09/13 at 23:50:59

Okay guys, I haven't been on here much. I don't know if I am posting in the right spot.  But for a little back ground, I am 18, movin off to college soon and picked up a 1986 ls650 for really cheep. I got the bike runnin. Found an oil leak from what looks to be the valve cover and looks like someone beat the crud out of the carb. The mixture screw is stripped and can't get it to move at all. I pulled apart what I could and cleaned it. Then found wiring issues which I have been dealing with for a couple weeks now. Have a starter relay on the way. And hack been cleaning out about 50 feet of wire from the harness. While I have been waiting on the solenoid, I decided to start building a bobber.. So. Lots of questions.
If I decide to strut the rear end, how thick of steel should I use?
I am building a custom rear fender. Super short and straight. The seat will be made out of steel as well. Some say an unsprung seat+ strutted rear end is a bad idea.. Any thoughts on that?
Can I buy replacement carbs for this bike? It seams as though there is no salvaging this thing..
I am going to mount a tail light onto the side of the bike to give the fender a clean look. Where can I buy just a small round taillight that I can make a mount for to hold the license plate for as well.
Also, whoever had this bike before me broke the headlight. I have a driving/ off road light sitting in my garage. I know it won't have a hi/low filiment. But I don't plan on driving at night anyways.. How would I hook up the offroad light? Can I just tie the white and green(I think it's green) together and connect them to the red of the offroad light?
I know it's a lot. But. I work full time as a boat mechanic and am a dang good welder, so, I am tryin to build everythin I can and make a budget bobber with a different look than normal!

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/09/13 at 23:58:25

Some say an unsprung seat+ strutted rear end is a bad idea..


I dont know anyone who wouldnt say that,,

Look,, 18 IS young,, But Gee, dude, no one is young enough to take that beating,, you Gotta have some spring in there somewhere,,youll be pissin blood

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by mpescatori on 06/10/13 at 01:57:21


7B565354524F53523C0 wrote:
Okay guys, I haven't been on here much. I don't know if I am posting in the right spot.  But for a little back ground, I am 18, movin off to college soon and picked up a 1986 ls650 for really cheep. I got the bike runnin. Found an oil leak from what looks to be the valve cover and looks like someone beat the crud out of the carb. The mixture screw is stripped and can't get it to move at all. I pulled apart what I could and cleaned it. Then found wiring issues which I have been dealing with for a couple weeks now. Have a starter relay on the way. And hack been cleaning out about 50 feet of wire from the harness. While I have been waiting on the solenoid, I decided to start building a bobber.. So. Lots of questions.

If I decide to strut the rear end, how thick of steel should I use?
I am building a custom rear fender. Super short and straight. The seat will be made out of steel as well. Some say an unsprung seat+ strutted rear end is a bad idea.. Any thoughts on that?


Garrett, put some damping somewhere on that rear or you'll be looking for a kidney transplant before you even graduate !



Quote:
Can I buy replacement carbs for this bike? It seams as though there is no salvaging this thing..


In theory any 32-36mm carb sgould do the job, but perhaps a rehaul&reconditioning of your own carb is a safer bet.



Quote:
I am going to mount a tail light onto the side of the bike to give the fender a clean look. Where can I buy just a small round taillight that I can make a mount for to hold the license plate for as well.


Any decent web-based chop shop has plenty of stuff starting from $20...



Quote:
Also, whoever had this bike before me broke the headlight. I have a driving/ off road light sitting in my garage. I know it won't have a hi/low filiment. But I don't plan on driving at night anyways.. How would I hook up the offroad light? Can I just tie the white and green(I think it's green) together and connect them to the red of the offroad light?


My suggestion is to look at the light bulb and make sure the low beam is at least 37.5W and the high beam at least 50W.
Never mind you don't plan riding at night, Noah never went skin diving and Moses never went skinny dipping, either. Who knows, you might beet a biker chick in college who rider badder
and faster than you, what are you going to do, "not ride at night"?
Get yerself a headlight.
;)



Quote:
I know it's a lot. But. I work full time as a boat mechanic and am a dang good welder, so, I am tryin to build everythin I can and make a budget bobber with a different look than normal!


OK, may I suggest you get yourself a sprung seat FIRST, tailor it to your liking as related to handlebars and footpegs, and only THEN think about rear struts. Those rear shocks are so short, they're stiff anyways...

Also, if you want to be cool, replace the stock speedo with a cookie jar and fit 2" tacho and speedo to the handlebars, they look and work much better!
THEN
source a 4 gal tank off a broken HD Road King and adapt it to the Savage frame; that'll give you the opportunity to cruise around town with the stock 2 gal tank, or go off on weekends with the 4 gal tank...
You don't want to be left stranded 'cause you ran outta gas... for real !   :-X
;)

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by JLight on 06/10/13 at 02:05:59

This is the cheapest place I've found for the ford tail light. Order the left one to get the plate light built in.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1928-1931-Ford-Model-A-Stainless-Tail-Lights,3011.html

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by Dave on 06/10/13 at 03:31:00

For the headlight wiring....Black is ground, White is low beam, Yellow is high beam.

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by Demin on 06/10/13 at 05:08:52

All of my rigids have unsprung seats.The reasoning behind it for me is..I used to run a sprung seat,hit a pothole about 70 and the bike came up so hard that it bottomed out the springs and the impact was worse than totally rigid.BTW I'm 48,6'3",and about 270lbs.

http://p1.bikepics.com/2011/08/16/bikepics-2257982-800.jpg

My struts are 1" solid round bar.Probably overkill though.
Depending on your budget.Walmart has a round trailer taillight for about 6 bucks.
Get a headlight.Lowbrow Customs has a 4.5" for about 35 bucks.Drill 1 hole and mount it.

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by Garrett on 06/10/13 at 06:32:36

Gee guys, thanks for all the reply's! :D
I think im going to keep the stock shocks for now. Thanks for the wiring info. I am going to go look at a couple chop shops in town today and see what I can find for a taillight. It seams like everyone goes with that 32 ford tail light. I am wondering about mounting led's inside the fender. So I going to try to find some bright enough ones that I can recess into the steel. Also, I did some measurements, I think I am going to try and find a handle bar with 3inch rise, maybe 32inch length, with a 4inch pull back. Any recommendations?

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by JLight on 06/10/13 at 08:29:27

I built my own handlebars. I went with Z bars since I couldn't find anyone local with a bender but $18 worth of tubing and some welding and I had a set to my specs.

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by Garrett on 06/10/13 at 11:34:46


6167424C435F2B0 wrote:
I built my own handlebars. I went with Z bars since I couldn't find anyone local with a bender but $18 worth of tubing and some welding and I had a set to my specs.

what size tubing did you use?

does anyone know how low of handle bars you can go without having risers?

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by groupus on 06/10/13 at 11:46:39


6C414443455844452B0 wrote:
Where can I buy just a small round taillight that I can make a mount for to hold the license plate for as well.


This is the best cheap option. looks like the 32 ford, but you can buy it at  auto zone, advance auto, napa, walmart, etc for about $6. DOT approved, sturdy, bright. I made a side mount bracket too. use thickish steel if you mount it to the axle because i broke 2 with the vibration.

find a local independent custom harley shop and raid their used parts room. any harley bars will fit, low sportster bars work just fine, dyna mufflers, sportster foot pegs (with some hardware store parts). I'm assuming just the plastic bucket is broke, so you can jam the stock savage headlight glass in a sportster bucket. I used the type with a thick rubber ring and 2 chrome clamps. Those can be had for a song and dance, it's the glass that costs you. Other styles might work too, bring your glass and try it out. There are a couple of threads online of how harley guys invert them to get rid of that ugly brow/visor. use that for ideas, but you can make anything work if you can cut and weld.
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=1067978

http://distilleryimage0.s3.amazonaws.com/4ddeee02b12f11e28c4722000a9f1966_7.jpg

http://img.jpcycles.com/zoom/306-567_A.jpg

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by Demin on 06/10/13 at 14:38:27

That's the taillight I was talking about.Like you said too...D.O.T. approved.

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by JLight on 06/10/13 at 20:13:15


624F4A4D4B564A4B250 wrote:
what size tubing did you use?

does anyone know how low of handle bars you can go without having risers?


1"x.120 DOM

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by Garrett on 06/13/13 at 12:45:06


4F496C626D71050 wrote:
[quote author=624F4A4D4B564A4B250 link=1370847060/0#8 date=1370889286]
what size tubing did you use?

does anyone know how low of handle bars you can go without having risers?


1"x.120 DOM[/quote]
thanks! i may make me up some handle bars soon.
i ended up going to my dads shop and finding a red caution light (the lights that sit on top of those barrels for construction workers.) i made up a mount with a little gromlet to hold it in place. welded up it and the seat and the license plate holder last night. i also got my starter relay in the mail. hopefully next week i can get all my wiring taken care of and start it up again. any kind of cool mirrors that you guys would recommend?
and also, is there a valve cover gasket? or is it purposefully RTV'd in place. last time i had the bike running, oil was leaking down the side of the engine on the left hand side.
also! one more question, how hot are these things going to get?

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by apache snow on 06/13/13 at 13:22:26

I don't know about where you are at but around here you need a license plate light. Not having one will get you a ticket quick. :-?

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by maxtowers on 06/13/13 at 15:15:53

Here are my two cent... i would not go rigid in the rear,keep the shocks... unless you switch to a Ryca rigid bobber frame, that stretches the wheelbase and it's a proper rigid frame (very nice also), but seems to me that you're on a budget so the ryca frame it's out of the question.

For the parts check ebay, i found plenty of spare parts from salvage yards that sells stuff over there, and not to mention the sellers of aftermarket parts like the Ford rear taillight and other universal accessories.
Check the forum for the rear fender, i' ve seen a lot of guys going for a trailer fender and light, they are cheap and seems to fit with minor adjustments
And for the headlight, you have to consider that there are a bunch of wires that are hidden in the headlight, like those of the turning lights.
Don't know where you live and especially where you will ride your bike, but i suggest you to keep it street legal as much as you can to avoid tickets or worst.
As i said, my humble 2 cent

Title: Re: Bobber build help
Post by Jolly Executioner on 06/13/13 at 22:07:02


323E272B30283A2D2C5F0 wrote:
Here are my two cent... i would not go rigid in the rear,keep the shocks... unless you switch to a Ryca rigid bobber frame, that stretches the wheelbase and it's a proper rigid frame (very nice also), but seems to me that you're on a budget so the ryca frame it's out of the question.


I believe voodoo vintage has a weld on hardtail which costs significantly less than the ryca bolt on.

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