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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Running Hot /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1369341016 Message started by nrausch on 05/23/13 at 13:30:16 |
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Title: Running Hot Post by nrausch on 05/23/13 at 13:30:16 Hello again Gents! I bought our Savage in the dead of winter for my wife, and we have gotten some really nice rides out of it so far. Last weekend 'ol Suzy seemed to be running really hot. (The bike, not the wife) Granted: - It is now spring and a bit warmer than winter in NY (Still just over 70F) - We were in slow/ no moving traffic for a good half hour in the middle of the trip - Maybe she drove the whole trip in 3rd gear? (That is mean of me to assume, she knows what she is doing.) I swear the clutch cover and generator cover are now a shade of bronze rather than chrome! Since I wasn't riding it and couldn't hear or feel what was going on with it, I had her park it after the ride and let it cool down. The next day I checked the oil level, tilted the bike and looked in the oil level window with the engine running and I see the oil pumping and sloshing around like a washing machine, so I assume oil is pumping. I went for a short ride and everything sounded and felt fine. But within 10 or 15 minutes the block was HOT! again... granted it is a bit warmer outside, but what would make it get this hot that quick? The pipe doesn't seem to be any more discolored than the usual blueing it has always had. Perhaps the discoloration is from a cleaner I used and the heat of the ride baked it off with the chrome, and the heat is normal. But, is there anything I can check or something that is common? I don't want to experiment too much and bake the engine. Sincerely, Running Hot |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/23/13 at 13:39:42 & you checked the oil level, engine off? If you think it got that hot, you may want to change oil. Check the exhaust & make sure its clear & exhaling normally,. Wait till late in the day or get up early. Ride it when its a little cooler out & see if its acting like it did before the weather warmed up. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by nrausch on 05/23/13 at 15:03:05 Checked the oil with the engine stopped cold and it's good. Checked the level with the engine stopped hot and it's good. I'll give it a full change this weekend and see how that flies. The last change was less than 300 miles ago and less than 3 months. But I need to change the other bike anyway, so I'll get them both on the same schedule. Thanks! Stay tuned.... |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by nrausch on 05/27/13 at 14:59:59 Happy Memorial Day everybody! I Changed the oil and filter and the ambient temperature was about 70 degrees C this weekend. The air filter is new as well. The oil was a little dark and there was a tiny bit of foam. Last oil change was 4 months ago and less than 500 miles! (20w50 Mobil 1 vtwin Synth) The engine still seems to be running really hot. (But well!) Idle is at 1000 RPM Laser thermometer shows the lower case at about 275c, the lower fins around 300c, the upper fins around 250, the exhaust pipe near the engine about 290c, after only about 5 - 10 minutes of running idle. (Same before and after the oil change) How do these compare to usual? Everything sounds good, and honestly it seems to be running better than it ever has since I have owned it! If it wasn't for the discoloration of the covers, I would not be concerned. I checked photos of the bike from when I originally had it and the covers have discolored to a gold bronze for sure! Can I assume that if the oil pump wasn't pumping that the engine would be making some terrible sounds and not run great? I wish I could blame this on a hole in the radiator! :) Any other thoughts? |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by apache snow on 05/27/13 at 15:15:05 Most people on here run 10W40 with the exception of people who are in very hot regions. I believe 10W40 is what the manual specifies. :) |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by Routy on 05/27/13 at 15:42:16 There has been many posts of the engine running good, but running hot. But I don't know that a 1 of them really were. Many just do not know that an air cooled engine that is moving very slow, or standing still, is going to get very hot, but nothing that is not normal, or that will cause any damage. If it is otherwise running good, w/ normal power, etc etc, you can almost bet it not getting abnormally hot. The only thing I can think of that would cause overheating, but still run complete normal, would be plugged cooling finns. If the exhaust was restricted, it would not run good/normal If the timing was off enuff to overheat, it also would not run good/normal. If it was short on oil, the engine would get very noisy. But 10-40 oil will run cooler than 20-50, but probably not enuff difference you would notice it ?? As far as the discoloration, a cleaner has caused it on exhaust pipes many times, maybe see if it will clean off. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by Dave on 05/27/13 at 19:02:44 I have been using my new Vapor speedo/tach for a couple of weeks now. My bike runs great and has no issues. I now have a head temperature sender and the head runs between 260 - 270 on the highway. A steady 65mph in 90 degree weather took it just shy of 290.....I have no idea what the case temperature is. I have my sensor mounted on the left rear cylinder stud. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by Digger on 05/27/13 at 19:05:39 6874677375656E060 wrote:
n, Where on the case was that reading taken....it equates to about 525 degrees F! |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by Charon on 05/27/13 at 19:19:57 I wondered about those temperatures, too. I think the numbers would be about right in Fahrenheit instead of Celsius. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by Dane Allen on 05/28/13 at 12:23:25 Would a lean/rich fuel issue cause something like this or would that mostly heat up the exhaust? I would think you would hear the metal-to-metal if there was too little oil pressure over time. When was the last valve adjustment? |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/28/13 at 12:38:13 Id look to a restricted exhaust, |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by paulmarshall on 05/28/13 at 12:42:32 I modded my heat sensor to fit around the spark plug. Before I put oversize piston in my temp was between 203 F- 248F. Running temp was 203 F and sitting at lights 248 F with a ambient temp of 86 F. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by Blinky-FSO on 05/28/13 at 12:45:39 7D61726660707B130 wrote:
The covers are polished aluminum with a clear coat, not chrome. What brand or type of cleaner did you use? Try and polish out a section of one cover and see if the discoloration returns. keep us posted. Good hunting |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by Digger on 05/28/13 at 19:08:55 263A293D3B2B20480 wrote:
Assuming that he meant F vs. C and the measurement was taken at the bottom half of the clutch cover, that's still too hot, IMO..... I'm presuming that said temperature would be about the temp of the oil.....and I've never seen my case temps go much above 210-220 F. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by nrausch on 06/03/13 at 08:04:00 Correction: I did mean F not C for the temperatures. So that does make more sense. 525 F degrees probably would have melted the engine into a solid blob. It ran great all weekend, and we had a hot one! The exhaust pipe does not seem to be too clogged, but I still want to take it off and check it internally. Now I have run into the issue that all of the bolts holding the muffler and the heat shield where the pipe meets the muffler are totally rusted shut and won't budge. I noticed 3 half dollar sized rust holes in the bottom of the muffler and am thinking I want to just replace it, or swap with a Jardine or something. The holes seem to be only in the outer layer. (You can't stick a finger in more than half an inch) If so, should I just drill out the rusty bolts? I pretty much emptied a can of WD40 on these guys over the weekend, hoping they would loosen enough to move. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by old_rider on 06/03/13 at 08:13:19 n.... I also have a laser thermo, i'll run to the store and back, takes about 30 min or so, and then check temps in the same areas you did as a comparison. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/03/13 at 08:19:54 Get some Gin You Wine Penny Tratin oil. Wintergreen oil walks into the tiniest fo cracks. WD 38.5 aint really all that much of a penetrator. Its for Water dissipation.. There are several good oils out, but there was a list of commercially available penetrating oils & compared to home made stuff.. I wish I still had that,, BUT, get something on them & let them soak while you ride. If they wont break loose & ya cant twist them off, then a dremel & cut off or small grinder can sure make life easier. Drilling is work,, but it will work. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by old_rider on 06/03/13 at 10:26:12 Well after about 30 min. ride I took the temps in same area's, here are my results. I left the bike running when I got back to the garage and did it as quickly as possible. Right side (as you sit on bike) Lower Case = 189* Lower Fins = 251* Upper Fins = 234* Left Side (was about 3 min after sitting at idle running) Lower Case = 208* Lower Fins = 309* Upper Fins = 290* Exhaust at enginge = 310* Hope this helps.... my pipe is a soft golden color, kinda brassy sheen over the chrome very lightly. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by nrausch on 06/03/13 at 12:04:12 Thanks OR. It's great to know the temperatures aren't insanely over the top. I'm going to focus on replacing the muffler for now, and assume the side covers were the result of my Gunk Engine Cleaner mis-use. More to come.... Thanks all! |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/03/13 at 20:47:23 nd assume the side covers were the result of my Gunk Engine Cleaner mis-use. Did you include that detail in the post? |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by Dave on 06/04/13 at 05:48:20 3B242225383F0E3E0E36242863510 wrote:
Yes......He had a one liner in the first post. "Perhaps the discoloration is from a cleaner I used and the heat of the ride baked it off with the chrome, and the heat is normal." He didn't tell is that is was "GUNK" however. That stuff is really caustic I believe and is not suitable for aluminium or clear coated parts. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by Oldfeller on 06/04/13 at 05:53:47 +1 on the engine cleaners not being good for clear coat -- I screwed mine up using the stuff. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by old_rider on 06/04/13 at 08:20:00 Ok guys, don't laugh at me.... but after a good cleaning on my bikes I actually spray some "pig spit" on everything but the seats windscreens and brakes. Its a silcone based spray put out by harley, but i've found it does work rather well on rubber, motor and tins also. It sheds water and bug guts don't stick as bad, it also makes the next cleanup easy. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by nrausch on 06/04/13 at 10:37:03 I am so relieved to have only ruined the finish on the covers and to know that the hot temperatures I'm seeing are relatively normal. I WILL get that muffler off this weekend weather it likes it or not. Turns out the "holes" in the muffler I mentioned earlier are supposed to be there and exist on the OEM replacement muffler as well. Mine just have rust around the holes edges so I assumed that they were rust holes. What type of solvent is best for cleaning all of the caked dirt and grime off of the fins and engine block/ undercarriage? I want it to shine like new. Thanks so much! |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by Dave on 06/04/13 at 10:59:06 I use Bike Brite. I buy it at my local bike dealer. It comes in a spray bottle, and a larger refill. It cleans the dirt and grease off well, then I follow up using a car wash soap and a rag. http://www.bikebrite.com/bike-brite-Motorcycle-Spray-Wash.html Never put your bike away wet. Never wash your bike without drying it off, then going for a 10 minute ride to get the water blown out of places. Parking it wet will corrode all sorts of things. |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/04/13 at 11:13:24 NO YOu DIDnt! You Didnt get an OEM muffler to put back on that thing, did you??? |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by nrausch on 06/04/13 at 11:30:13 No I didn't. My plan is to take the muffler off and really inspect it for holes and leaks and check to make sure it's all clear inside. (It has a high end chirp when running) I was just inspecting images and diagrams of the OEM part to compare what it should look like "down the barrel" I want to make the existing muffler work, as I do not want to invest much coin in the bike. Time on the other hand I have plenty of.... |
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Title: Re: Running Hot Post by old_rider on 06/04/13 at 14:09:08 3D21322620303B530 wrote:
Now sir, that statement would also apply to myself....after the dragon trip I am supposed to attempt to improve my stamina and strength more so than now and apply myself to a job in the future..... the missus' demands it! hmmmmm.... :( |
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