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Message started by sesamestreet on 04/21/13 at 19:12:29

Title: Clutch gasket questions
Post by sesamestreet on 04/21/13 at 19:12:29

Hey guys, so i have a few questions regarding the clutch gasket. having opened it up to check on the tensioner, i replaced it.

I don't really remember how the gasket that was in looked like. the new one fits along the outer edge just fine, but it has an extra section where inside the engine would just be open space, with a couple of big holes cut out of it.. was i supposed to cut that part out? i didn't.

Also, after replacing it and riding it a few times, i notice small sections on the bottom of the engine are being covered by a thin layer of oil. i wipe it, and it doesn't look to be getting worse, so is it just oil residue from removing clutch and filter covers?

Title: Re: Clutch gasket questions
Post by sesamestreet on 04/21/13 at 19:18:52

also i thought i should mention that when tightening the clutch cover bolts, i torqued them to the appropriate setting, and did an extra click just because i'm sketched out about things getting loose. so i overtightened them all evenly i'd say, but is that bad?

Title: Re: Clutch gasket questions
Post by 45acp on 04/21/13 at 19:30:27

i just did the same mod recently. after about 100 miles i started having some oil seaping out. tried a few bolts and they were a little loose. pulled the exhaust off again and retorqued them. now no leaks.
i dont know about the holes in thegasket though.

Title: Re: Clutch gasket questions
Post by Oldfeller on 04/21/13 at 21:38:20

PAY ATTENTION PLEASE .... your engine is at risk.

You are talking about "cutting out" a section of your gasket up at the top of the cases. This is DEATH ....

There is a hollow long thin oil gallery up at the top of the cases that transfers the main oil pressure from the front half of the engine to the middle of the engine (where it goes up into the head to take care of the cam bearings) and to the rear half of the engine where it goes into the transmission shafts and the clutch throw out bearing).

That skinny assed long oil gallery (that you didn't think needed to be there gasket-wise) is the most critical gasket maintained gallery in the entire engine.

Cutting anything away from your gasket in this area means you do not supply pressurized oil to these two critical oil pathways. Ditto for not correctly positioning the lower lip of this skinny assed long gasket section on the lower lip of the cast in place gallery.

Park your bike until your new gasket gets in and you can properly replace it if you did any cutting on this gasket area at all (or if you didn't put it in place correctly because you didn't understand it was important).

Title: Re: Clutch gasket questions
Post by sesamestreet on 04/22/13 at 05:04:05

Hey I actually didn't cut it out thank god. And I just saw a thread where you can make your own paper gasket and the photos from that thread answered my question, that piece with the holes in it is supposed to be there :p

Now my question is more about the tiny leak. Is that just from residue? Or do I have to tighten the bolts more now that they had a couple of short trips for everything to set in? OR do I have to untighten them and tighten them bak up to spec ONLY without the extra quarter turn?

Title: Re: Clutch gasket questions
Post by Oldfeller on 04/22/13 at 08:18:40

Correct maximum torque is 100 inch pounds. Minimum torque starts at 80 inch pounds. (6 to 8 foot pounds). Exceeding these numbers can crush the gasket material and warp the cases, cause the leak you are talking about. If so, tightening more isn't going to fix it (but it can permanently warp your cover half and it will stretch out your bolts until they break so don't overtorque those little skinny bolts).

More and more of us are forgoing the $22 factory gasket and just using a good grade of RTV of a color that matches our cases. Apply it thinly to both sides and let it cure for 10-15 minutes before tightening just enough to make it just start to ooze out of the gap, then stop and let it cure in place completely for a day before going on up to 60-80 inch pounds.

Stop torquing if you see the mass of cured RTV in the gap crushing and oozing out of the gap -- you don't want that. Crushing an RTV gap seal can make a long string of loose RTV floating around inside the oil gallery, which winds up packed tight inside an upper oil passage (bad news)

RTV alone isn't nearly as strong as a gasket, but it doesn't have to be as it is low strength "adhesive" that has already bonded to both sides of the gap. It really requires very little additional tightening to work best. Caution, your case surfaces must be really clean (brake parts cleaner clean) for the RTV to make a max strong bond.

Title: Re: Clutch gasket questions
Post by WD on 04/22/13 at 08:28:16

I was wondering myself why an old style gasket instead of Permatex Gray RTV (aka Yamabond, Titebond, etc). Even Lisa's 1985 Toyota Celica GT-S with a 22re used gray gunk instead of a paper, felt or cork gasket, stock...

Title: Re: Clutch gasket questions
Post by sesamestreet on 04/22/13 at 17:27:11

Oh looks like I didn't tighten them enough. I thought that torque spec chart said 4-5N-m but 100lbft is more like 135 :o did I read that chart correctly??

Title: Re: Clutch gasket questions
Post by apache snow on 04/22/13 at 17:31:59

Thats 100 INCH lbs. Divide that by 12 to get foot lbs.

Title: Re: Clutch gasket questions
Post by verslagen1 on 04/22/13 at 17:35:07

ITEM N-m | ft-lb
Crankcase
bolts (6mm) 9.0 13.0 | 6.6 9.6
Clutch
cover bolts 8.8 13.0 | 6.5 9.6

is it that hard to look them up?

Torque specs List (http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1098848534)

found in the link below

Title: Re: Clutch gasket questions
Post by sesamestreet on 04/22/13 at 18:34:12

Oh jeez I went straight to https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/lv?key=0Aum3HeLfjZu8dFJKZWJOSUItY043ZVVnZXY4LWFjT1E

Misleading!

Title: Re: Clutch gasket questions
Post by Cavi Mike on 04/23/13 at 11:41:10

100ft/lbs is what car lug nuts get tightened down to. If you think those little bolts can handle that amount of torque, you might need to put the tools down.