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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Rear Brakes /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1363472639 Message started by JRLeathercraft on 03/16/13 at 15:23:59 |
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Title: Rear Brakes Post by JRLeathercraft on 03/16/13 at 15:23:59 Just bought a 96 and got it running. When I press on the rear brake pedal, there is not much movement and the bolt adjustment at the end of the cable (rear of bike) seems to be at the end. The stopping distance feels long on the rear, though I did get it to lock up. The local shop said $60 in labor. Is this a job to take on my self or should I leave it to the shop? Does it require special tools? I have a lift, but I have never taken a tire off and I don't uderstand the mechanices of a drum break. I'm thinking for $60, this is a job for the local shop. Advice? |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by Greg on 03/16/13 at 15:33:56 What I did was ask my shop teach me how to remove the rear wheel and put it back on. It really didn't take much longer and I am now more comfortable with the way it works. Maybe your shop can do the same if you are unsure. That way it would be $60 well spent. |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by JRLeathercraft on 03/16/13 at 15:35:44 7D787F7473791A0 wrote:
What about actually chaning the rear brakes? |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by Serowbot on 03/16/13 at 15:53:38 Ever do drum brakes on a car?... exactly the same... Easy as toast... |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by Gyrobob on 03/16/13 at 17:08:34 404B484B5D4B41432A0 wrote:
These bikes are tinker toys when it comes to things like this. A basic set of tools and a Clymer manual,.. you're ready to go. The first time you change the rear brakes it'll take a couple of hours. The next time, it'll take an hour, tops. You don't have to take the tire off for this job. All you have to do is remove the wheel and tire together as one piece. |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/16/13 at 17:12:15 Ive yet to hear of one of these that actually needed rear brakes. Pull the wheel, pay close attention to parts. Clean stuff up, inspect everything, lube what needs it. I would ruin close to 1/2 of the shoe surface, so it doesnt touch the drum, & put it together. |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by WD on 03/16/13 at 18:31:11 Piece of cake. Loosen the axle nut. Jack up the bike with a floor jack under the emissions shelf (the funny little fin under the seat, behind the muffler). Remove axle nut. Remove brake arm nuts, the one on the linkage and the one on the support rod. Tap axle out with a dowel, yank out dowel, wheel should fall on your toe. ;) Brake plate lifts out, flip it over, grasp both shoes and flip them toward the middle. Remove spring, put everything back together in the reverse order. You can/should apply a small dab of grease where the brake shoes touch the mounting pins, and a bit more on the axle shaft. It actually takes longer to type than to do. While the bike is still on the jack, spin the rear wheel by hand and adjust the shoe travel (tighten the nut on the brake linkage). Once the brake feels right, take it for a test ride, get the bike p to 20 or so and stop with the rear brake only. Do this a couple times, readjust the linkage nut, check the axle nut tension and call it good. EBC organic brake shoes are $46.95 at Bike Bandit. Stock shoes are $40, plus $60 labor... |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/16/13 at 21:06:55 Ohh, yea, you dont even hafta take the wheel out. YOu can wiggle the brake section out. |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by Serowbot on 03/16/13 at 21:48:55 My rear brake, works like an on-off switch... if the shoe ever manages to wear out,... I expect an improvement in sensitivity... ;D... ...(not that ever use it enough to wear it out)... 30k, and counting... :-?... |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by WD on 03/17/13 at 02:52:50 7A656364797E4F7F4F77656922100 wrote:
:-? If you use a full sized floor jack from the side, the wheel will fall out once the brake hardware is disconnected and the axle is pulled out. Full sized isn't the cheap little red one from Walmart or Autozone... |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by Oldfeller on 03/17/13 at 05:38:37 Guys, please read his original post again -- he is describing stock brakes that are working normally. He says they work, he can lock up the rear wheel for goodness sakes. His shop is trying to rip him off ($60 plus labor indeed) replacing things that aren't broken. He is a new rider, he does not know how the brakes should feel -- that's all. If his adjustment nut is out at the end of the threaded rod, they are not even worn very much yet. Teach him how to adjust the brakes rather than send him in for a $30 goose chase replacing what isn't worn out. 616A696A7C6A60620B0 wrote:
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by JRLeathercraft on 03/17/13 at 07:35:11 Maybe I described it wrong - The nut is tightened all the way. Are you saying to loosen it? Thank you. Jay |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by Oldfeller on 03/17/13 at 08:11:36 OK, listen up. Your rear brake is cable driven, and the cable stretches over time. We also have an issue with rear brakes being adjusted too "tight" and they are dragging all the time (this wastes gas and limits your top speed some). Tell me how far your foot moves the petal to get the rear brake to start slowing the bike any at all. (you must do all these tests with the bike rolling at normal parking lot speeds) There should be some amount of petal motion with NO EFFECT, or else you don't have enough slack in the system and you are dragging your brakes. My set up currently has a bit over 1/2" (closer to 3/4") of free play before the rear brake engages any at all. Where your petal sits in space is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT from this adjustment. This is the adjustment out at the end of the cable/rod set at the rear wheel lever arm. ======================= Next, forget about sliding the rear wheel type braking forces on the rear brake set -- you should NEVER be able to reach these levels of braking on the rear brake unless you are in a full panic stop and even then you shouldn't slide the rear wheel, ever. If the rear wheel slides you have lost control of the bike. The rear brakes are simply an adder force to the front brake, where most of the braking force is done. This is in line with good braking practices. Your rear brake should be able to be put into play by taking up the intentional 1/2" of slack then lightly actuating the brake. Getting more force is possible, but is rarely needed. Once you get your rear brake correctly adjusted, then we will talk about where it is compared to the wear out range (and talk about your rear drum lever and it's adjustment range). Then lastly we will talk about where your petal sits in space. |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by teggy on 03/17/13 at 19:49:21 As a service tech I will give my 2 cents: It sounds to me that the brakes are way out of adjustment. Easy fix for someone that knows wht they are doing. I suggest buying a service guide and following the section on brake adjustment. Option 2: $60.00 to have someone go over your brakes? Not a bad price if you don't feel confident doing it yourself, but you did say you bought it and got it running right? If you dont feel comfortable doing it yourself it is a saftey item have someone make sure your bike is safe for you $60.00 is not much money for saftey! |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by thumperclone on 03/17/13 at 23:15:05 you will want a helper if you drop the rear wheel.. |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/18/13 at 08:44:19 I told him they arent worn out,, you culd only wear these out if yoiu adjusted it to drag & rode it that way on purpose. |
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Title: Re: Rear Brakes Post by Oldfeller on 03/18/13 at 18:31:18 We'll give him time to get around to it, things that are simple to us aren't simple to other people. He'll talk to us when he is ready ..... |
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