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Message started by MShipley on 02/27/13 at 15:42:08

Title: brakes
Post by MShipley on 02/27/13 at 15:42:08

so I have been searching the internet for ways to upgrade the brakes for a little better control and stopping power. Have not had much sucess any ideas? Does anyone make an updated front rotor and caliper. better rear brake pads?

Title: Re: brakes
Post by verslagen1 on 02/27/13 at 15:57:12

Nothing bolt on.
1 of the RYCA guys did put a gsr? set on... radial caliper and disk.
custom hanger and spider.  That's as close to bolt on as it gets.

next is to put a different front end on.  GS front ends are similar in head tube dimensions and are near bolt on.  the GR tempter has similar geometry as the savage.  All require custom stops to keep from hitting the tank.

Title: Re: brakes
Post by greenmonster on 02/27/13 at 16:17:26

One of the things that I've been interested in is a disc for the back. The I find the drum is either on or off. It seems very difficult to ease the back brake.

Title: Re: brakes
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/27/13 at 16:33:48

The rear is useless in stock form. Press on it, it locks up. I made it less sensitive by removing about 1/3rd of the surface in contact w/ the drum by grinding grooves across it & tapering the ends in. Now I get feedback in pedal pressure before it locks up. Much better than stock. I think more off the shoes would be better.

Do not breath the dust. Wear a mask, hold your breath, cut a bit & run away,,

Title: Re: brakes
Post by SALB on 02/27/13 at 16:40:11

AME is the only "Bolt On" kit that I know of, and you get a whole new front  end to go with it. :-/

http://chopperkitusa.com/suzuki-LS650-Savage.htm

Of course, if you were going for the chopper look, and had a couple grand to blow........ ;)

Title: Re: brakes
Post by arteacher on 02/27/13 at 19:10:21


65666571676F61040 wrote:
AME is the only "Bolt On" kit that I know of, and you get a whole new front  end to go with it. :-/

http://chopperkitusa.com/suzuki-LS650-Savage.htm

Of course, if you were going for the chopper look, and had a couple grand to blow........ ;)

That kit only replaces the tubes, dampers, brake line, and the trees. Everything else, including the brakes, is stock.

Title: Re: brakes
Post by SALB on 02/27/13 at 19:43:35

Admittedly, I don't have any experience with the kit.  How do they do the dual disk option that they advertise on the post? :-?

Title: Re: brakes
Post by arteacher on 02/27/13 at 19:59:19


60636074626A64010 wrote:
Admittedly, I don't have any experience with the kit.  How do they do the dual disk option that they advertise on the post? :-?

They are generic photo's, not LS650 specific.

Title: Re: brakes
Post by SALB on 02/27/13 at 21:21:25

[smiley=cry.gif]Well shoot.  That's kinda misleading.

Title: Re: brakes
Post by MShipley on 02/28/13 at 07:40:35

Justin-o-guy, can you elaberate a little? When you grind this material off do you simply cut grooves perpindicular the the pads all thru out the pad or simply remove about a third of the pad with a grinder? I have backed off the adjustment so I have more pedal travel before it locks but still seems like it locks very quickly.

Title: Re: brakes
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/28/13 at 09:19:38

Pedal height wont make it work better. Set the pedal where you like the feel. ( Ohh,, I TRied putting the pedal low, where the ankle is extended & not strong, still locked up on me, too..)

I used a 4&1/2" grinder &^ cut grooves across the shoe. Not full depth.



Title: Re: brakes
Post by arteacher on 02/28/13 at 14:02:59

Another way to go would be to put a spring on the adjuster. You would have to do some experimenting to get the right compression that activated the brake without locking it up. That way, if you wanted to lock it up for some reason, you just apply enough pressure to collapse the spring, and your good to go....er.... stop.

Title: Re: brakes
Post by WD on 02/28/13 at 14:41:41

Have the swept surface of your brake rotor cross drilled and chamfered. Adapt a master and caliper off a dual piston or 4 piston front brake. Nissin or Showa brands only unless you can afford Brembo or similar European parts.

For the rear, no idea.

If I was to swap a bunch of parts and go chain drive, I'd run the front and rear wheels with twin leading shoe drums off a 1968 or so CL450 or a 500 Titan Suzuki parallel twin 2 stroker. Infinitely better than the craptastic oem Savage brakes (in my bike's case... brokes, the front is a joke, has been since new).

Title: Re: brakes
Post by verslagen1 on 02/28/13 at 16:28:36


504E75746D7178641D0 wrote:
Justin-o-guy, can you elaberate a little? When you grind this material off do you simply cut grooves perpindicular the the pads all thru out the pad or simply remove about a third of the pad with a grinder? I have backed off the adjustment so I have more pedal travel before it locks but still seems like it locks very quickly.

I cut the lead part of the shoe at a 45° so that dust is swept to the open end of the hub.  And with a sharp step instead of a taper.  Dust is the enemy and causes squealing, front and back with the stock pads.

Beyound that I keep the pedal low, close to the stop.  It helps cause to lock it up I have to flex my ankle a bit.  I am considering a sharper angle to remove more surface area.  But some less effective brake material would be better.

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