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Message started by tarkm812 on 10/21/12 at 22:59:26

Title: Replacing rear sprocket
Post by tarkm812 on 10/21/12 at 22:59:26

I have a '87 that I got 2 years ago and have yet to need to pull the rear tire. It has a chip (looks like a bite) out of the sprocket outer flange and doesn't seem to interfere with the belt but I picked a sprocket up on ebay for $25. shipped so I intend to replace it. Any roadblocks anticipated (locktighted bolts) or is it straight forward job? Any items I should take a look at while I'm in there? Thanks for any info.

Title: Re: Replacing rear sprocket
Post by mojohand40 on 10/22/12 at 06:55:17

I'm curious as to what others say, as I'm no expert.
But, I did take off the rear wheel and put it back on yesterday, so here's my advice from that:

1) Mark spacers and belt adjusters "right" or "left" with a sharpie marker before you take things apart.

2) While the tire is off, Inspect your rear brake shoes. Better, yet just replace them while you have the wheel off. I would have replaced mine, but I didn't have new ones on hand, I SHOULD have ordered some in advance, local shop (a Honda-Suzuki-Kawasaki combined dealer) didn't have 'em in stock, I checked. So maybe order some before you yank the wheel. Might as well do it all at once. Also check your tread, now is a good time to take the wheel down to the dealer and get new rubber, usually the stealers charge less to mount a tire when it's off the bike already.

3) Putting things back is a pain. I dropped the belt guard and left shock, that helps to give you some room. If you can get somebody to help you, to hold things while you drive the axle back in, all the better. I did it on my lonesome with my dog watching.

lots'o' cussing' and dropping spacers etc .....Until:

4) Get a long bolt, smaller diameter then the axle, slide this through the spacers, wheel, belt tensioners etc. Think really loose fitting axle, THEN tap in axle which then pushes the bolt through. Makes the job easy as pie as it keeps everything semi lined up and in place. Also maybe put a board or something under your wheel to hold it up while you do this.

Title: Re: Replacing rear sprocket
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/22/12 at 07:06:26

THose rear shoes never wear out. They just squeal,,

NO need to drop other parts.
BUst the axle loose, pay attention to spacers, & before you go rip[pin the whol;e assembly out, slow down & have a good look at how you can remove the rear brake assy from that wheel, while the wheel is in place.

See how youre going back together. Its really not hard putting it all back together, as long as its not jacked up too high & youve got a 3rd arm growing out of your chest, youll be just fine..

Title: Re: Replacing rear sprocket
Post by verslagen1 on 10/22/12 at 07:25:26

Yeah, I bought a replacement set of shoes for my 1st rear wheel drop... still got 'em in the original box. Never used them. Still, there's hope yet. Maybe when I hit 70,000 miles. I'll have to post what I did to them though, they don't squeal.

I use a floor jack to raise and lower mine. The niddly piddly adjustments to line up the axle ain't so bad. Leave it on the kickstand, put the jack under the muff mount.

big spacer on the left... it fit's the hole there.

If you can't get the bolts to break loose, apply heat to loosen the locktite.

Title: Re: Replacing rear sprocket
Post by mojohand40 on 10/22/12 at 07:32:12

5D4E5958474A4C4E451A2B0 wrote:

... I'll have to post what I did to them though, they don't squeal.

Well? What did you do? My Savage rear brake doesn't squeal, (yet) but it also isn't as good as I would like (that's why I was thinking of replacing the shoes with some EBC's)...anyway...
My Honda Shadows' rear brake squeals. I sometimes monkey around with chain adjustment, and loosen the axle and play with the brake adjustment to reduce it, but it comes back...Give me a hint how to get rid of rear drum brake squeal!!

Title: Re: Replacing rear sprocket
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/22/12 at 07:44:20

My rear brake worked so well the tire would just slide when I put just light pressure on the pedal. A grinder & a few slots cut across them & tapered on the leading edges & now I can actually Use the rear brake.
I probably killed about 1/3rd of the surface area on each shoe.

Title: Re: Replacing rear sprocket
Post by verslagen1 on 10/22/12 at 08:30:57

Along the lines of what JOG did, but different.

There seems to be 2 things that make the front pads squeal, moisture and dirt. Wash the disc and pads with soap and water, dry well and they don't squeal... for a while.

For the rear brakes you can't open them every week to clean. So how do we get the dust out? In browsing parts catalogs I noticed different cuts on dirt bike shoes. Angled and not tapered to help clear dirt. So I ground the angled cut on the leading edge of both shoes. The angle should direct the dirt towards the joint between the wheel and hub.

Next, drive off the moisture with a few hard stops and continue to use the brakes whenever you need to slow to keep them dry.

Driving off the moisture is the main part of the fix. Removing the dirt helps.

Title: Re: Replacing rear sprocket
Post by Cavie on 10/26/12 at 06:55:30

My S40 sat for 6 weeks recently. I drove it yesterday and the rear brake was squeeling. Drove down the road for two blocks draging the rear brake. Squeel is gone.

Title: Re: Replacing rear sprocket
Post by Gyrobob on 10/28/12 at 19:17:49

I wish there was a rear sprocket available with 2 fewer teeth, causing a slightly higher final drive ratio, and a little more range of adjustment for the belt.

As a slightly less desirable option, I wish there were a belt with a couple more teeth and was, therefore, slightly longer. I called Bando and they say they have longer belts that would fit, but that they are not tough enough for motorcycle duty.