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Message started by stewmills on 10/13/12 at 20:27:30

Title: Removing Air/Mix Screw?
Post by stewmills on 10/13/12 at 20:27:30

I want to remove my air/mix screw to make sure that it is in good shape on the inside (clean and not dented at the point from over-tightening the soft brass...). Is it as simple as unscrewing it? When I look at it on the diagram it looks like there is;
1) screw
2) spring
3) washer
4) o-ring

Do I just back it out delicately and make sure not to lose any parts, and when I am done just delicately put it all back in?

Any make sure you don't warnings of what I could potentially "screw" up if I am not careful?

Thanks!

Title: Re: Removing Air/Mix Screw?
Post by Serowbot on 10/13/12 at 21:58:40

Nupe,.. just do it...
You know there's a spring under there,.. you know, lot's of people strip it...
Don't do that...
Respect it... take it out, clean it, put it back...
The problems are the ones you create...
;)...

Title: Re: Removing Air/Mix Screw?
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/13/12 at 22:46:51

Yep,, & Not gently screwing it in & counting the turns means ya dont know where to put it back In To.

Very gently turn it in, light fingertips on the screwdriver, dont booger the tip up, just find bottom & count turns going in, write it down, Now, when you go back in, screw it in all the way & back it out the correct # of turns & you are right back where you were.

Title: Re: Removing Air/Mix Screw?
Post by stewmills on 10/14/12 at 14:27:21

Ok...I removed and reinstalled the screw and all is well. I cleaned it with a little steel wool just for cleaning's sake and it seems to run maybe a tiny bit smoother, but that could be from readjusting as well.

The one thing that really confuses me is that it took (seriously) 12 turns out to get the screw where it was off the threads. When reinstalling, it took the same back in and the entire threaded section is far enough into the carb that I can see the top end of the internal threads when i am all the way in....so I know I didn't get my count off. My sweet spot seems to be around 1/2-1/3 turn out from bottom-out.

Does my model (2008) just have a longer thread than the older models that I see warnings about the "more than 3 turns out" concern.

Regardless, I am in good shape, just curious.

Here's my air/mix screw after a light cleaning.

http://i46.tinypic.com/107qidg.jpg

Title: Re: Removing Air/Mix Screw?
Post by verslagen1 on 10/14/12 at 15:29:17

warnings about the "more than 3 turns out" are cuz they tend to vibrate out after awhile. not that they are fully disengaged from the threads. they are in danger of being disengaged from the anti vibration spring that holds them in place.

Title: Re: Removing Air/Mix Screw?
Post by Oldfeller on 10/14/12 at 16:01:19

The turns out we are all counting when talking to people is turns out from lightly seated (all the way in).

The turns out you are counting is the number of threads on the fastener itself minus the normal tuning turns out (this combination results in the turns to get it to come loose in your hand). 12 turns smells about right here just looking at your picture.

Now, did you ever turn it in lightly all the way and count the turns it took to do that? If you didn't, you don't really know your original settings.

So, start at 2 turns out and go from there (it is a place to start).

Title: Re: Removing Air/Mix Screw?
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/14/12 at 16:21:52

That "Gently close & count turns in " step,,, It Must be given, but I am, tired of typing it.

Title: Re: Removing Air/Mix Screw?
Post by stewmills on 10/14/12 at 16:28:06

7F5C5456555C5C5542300 wrote:

Now, did you ever turn it in lightly all the way and count the turns it took to do that? If you didn't, you don't really know your original settings.

So, start at 2 turns out and go from there (it is a place to start).

Yes. Originally I started at ~2 turns out and could never get out further to the point of getting the idle to go "up" and then down so I could find the sweet spot, and I checked my plug about that time while doing some other work and it was all sooty...which I think means too rich. Which would explain the soot and the smell of fuel I always smelled. So, after I finally (delicately) went all the way in and then started out, I got a good, smooth idle at ~1/3 to 1 turn and then it starts to decrease. With the screw all the way in I 'think' it wants to start losing it's smoothness, but I cannot go in any further so I split what I think it the difference and it seems to be good there about halvsies AND no more fuel smell other than what is obvious tank cap venting.

I have been trying to pinpoint my lower mpg (around 44ish in the city) which is what initiated the screw check, but the bike runs good overall and I must just be getting what I should be with the primary city driving I do (~8 miles to work one way, several stop lights, and mostly 30-45mph roads the whole way).