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Message started by chad levert on 10/03/12 at 11:50:01

Title: plug sealing tips???
Post by chad levert on 10/03/12 at 11:50:01

the rubber plug im talking about is the plug that is above one of the head bolts.
ive broken down the topend before and applied some rtv sealant around the outside lip of the plug but when i just broke down the topend again it was Very easy to just pull right out...
whats the best way the ensure this plug will stay put and seal...
and do i put anything under the copper washers for the head bolts?
tips........

i added alil pic of what the savage has turned into the last couple of days...

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by verslagen1 on 10/03/12 at 12:00:21

clean the hole good, cover the plug with a heavy coat, and shove it in.

I usually use a pry bar from underneath to get it back out.

no since the threads gotta be oiled anyway.

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by chad levert on 10/03/12 at 12:05:28

heavy coat of what? if your talking about RTV, what kind? the most oil resistant kind or the high temp stuff?
any other critical sealing points i may have overlooked?
im puttting new head studs, o-ring, gaskets, bolts
and want to make sure when i torque it all back together it'll be ace for along time

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by BuckRYCA on 10/03/12 at 12:20:44

I use YamaBond 4. Same sealant for the mating surfaces on the cylinder head/cylinder head cover interface. No problems with oil leaks.

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by Oldfeller on 10/03/12 at 12:25:24

 
 
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1256079122


This is your Tech Tread for how to do the rubber plug with the engine still in the frame.

RTV has improved a lot over the last 3 years, I'd pick whatever color matches your head so the over-ooze isn't so noticeable.

All the current RTVs are up to the job of sealing your plug and your head cover.    Just remember to go lightly, a thin finger wipe on both sides of the head cover surfaces is enough.  

Too much RTV winds up squishing and protruding into the oil passages and jacking the cover way up in the air (increasing the running clearance in the cam bearing journal areas).

The rubber plug needs a significant coating, the ooze there isn't oil passage critical.
 

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by chad levert on 10/03/12 at 12:26:37

ok cool ill try that, got a yamaha shop by my house that'll prob have it.
so you also put some on both sides of the Metal Gasket?

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by Dave on 10/03/12 at 18:07:34

You don't put anything on the metal gasket......only on the rubber plug.

What is the problem you are having?  An oil leak.....or a compression leak?

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/03/12 at 22:01:24

REally?


RTV has improved a lot over the last 3 years, I'd pick whatever color matches your head so the over-ooze isn't so noticeable.



I dont use much, so, most of mine is older than 3 years,, brands that are best? Whats better? Spill it man,, this is NEWS,, How would you describe the change in performance?

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by Oldfeller on 10/04/12 at 03:46:13

 
RTV used to require 10-20 minutes of jell time before actual assembly.

Now you can apply, smear and assemble without waiting for jell time.

For our head covers, this new generation silicone is ideal as it can be smeared thin on each half, then assembled with no waiting ....  this minimizes the "growth" in the cam bearing journal gap clearance due to jelled up RTV and it also minimizes the chance of ooze blocking off an oil passage.

Permatex makes several colors of RTV, available at Walmart or any auto parts store.   Specifically, they sell a black and a gray that match our painted parts on the Savage very nicely.   Folks who use red RTV are uglying up their bikes unnecessarily.

Permatex also sells small tubes (mini-tubes) of their RTVs for a lot less money.  These mini tubes are enough for a head sealing job with a little left over.   I have had several big $8.00 tubes of silicone RTV sealant set up on me over the years after using a very small portion of it actually working on my bike.

$2.99 for a right size tube of properly colored Permatex beats buying a tube of Yamabond or Kawsakibond or Hondabond from the dealership at $12 to $18 a tube.


Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/04/12 at 05:50:48

Thats good stuff to know,, thanks., & I think everyone who owns a tool box has tossed nearly full tubes of goo..Ive got a tube of 3 bond, I doubt it will ever be used.

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by chad levert on 10/04/12 at 07:30:00

problem? oil leak and feels like a compression leak. so im gunna put all new head studs, bolts, gaskets etc.
i dont know what else to do, ive changed gaskets before still leaked the same amount... if this doesnt work the savage will be on craigslist for sale, cheap.

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by chad levert on 10/04/12 at 08:12:24

btw one'a you guys wanna sell me a used rear sprocket that'll fit the savage?? 40-44 tooth would be fine, going chain drive!

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/04/12 at 09:19:22

Do a leak down test?

Or, better yet, get a spark plug & gut the ceramic out of it, get a nipple welded in it, or if theres enough surface area to play with & you can get a good fit, JB weld something in it you can get a milton fitting on & air it up. If youve got a bad gasket, surely you can prove it that way,
Make sure you open the oil fill, so air coming past the rings doesnt air up the casees & mess a seal up.

HOw would you describe "Feels like compression loss"? Can you be any more detailed?

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by chad levert on 10/04/12 at 10:43:08

like after the bike gets warm (3min idle and 5miles down the road) itll start leaking oil and the motor will studder very noticeably. when i cold start it, it has great compression...

when i got the bike it was missing a few bolts on the head and one of the head bolts would only torque down to 20ft pounds and then the nut would slip. also last time i had the engine apart i put a thin layer of redRTV on both sides of the metal cylinder gasket...

so i THINK if i change head studs and put ALL the bolts in the head and try and metal-to-metal seal on the cylinder it should be fine, idk what u think?

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/04/12 at 16:13:59

when i got the bike it was missing a few bolts on the head and one of the head bolts would only torque down to 20ft pounds and then the nut would slip. also last time i had the engine apart i put a thin layer of redRTV on both sides of the metal cylinder gasket...

RTV that gasket for a sure fail,.,


when i got the bike it was missing a few bolts on the head and one of the head bolts would only torque down to 20ft pounds and then the nut would slip.

You were sold a defective machine. The previous owner knew it & defrauded you. ( IMO)& you are definitely NUmber 1 in "I think I have a blown head gasket",, & I am sorry to hear it.

Yes, I would drop the engine. IDK if I would try to fix it myself or if I would hire it done. There are guys here with much more experience in thread repair kits.


Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by chad levert on 10/06/12 at 07:35:03

well i changed head bolts, o ring, bolts, gaskets... i let the motor run 5 different times for 10mins, not one drop of leaking oil! engine runs smoother too, i get can get it to idle so low and steady now.
i do have a bit of a flame throwing back fire issue when i hammer down on the gas and let off a shotgun blast will shoot out my pipe lol
btw im running straight pipes, no baffle
so i prob need to jet up right??
and where is the air mixture screw? my manual is telln me my idle screw is the air mixture screw, thats bullshit.

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by Oldfeller on 10/07/12 at 04:13:48


You should use a fairly fast idle speed to provide enough oil pressure to keep your cam bearing lubed.

A slow idle that "sounds neat" is death on the motor .....

Title: Re: plug sealing tips???
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/07/12 at 06:54:05

Low & steady sounds good, but will ruin all your work. The cam sits in aluminum journals & the oil pressure is low, low rpm = ruined cam journals,.

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