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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Valve Adjustment /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1345086364 Message started by Mr.Orange on 08/15/12 at 20:06:04 |
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Title: Valve Adjustment Post by Mr.Orange on 08/15/12 at 20:06:04 Got TDC, adjusted valves to spec, and still get knocking. Whats up? |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by verslagen1 on 08/15/12 at 20:23:08 did you rotate the crank CW or CCW? did you rotate to TDC on the compression stroke? |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by Oldfeller on 08/15/12 at 20:49:35 Remember, there is a Clymer's rotation direction error in the Clymers manual. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by Savage_Rob on 08/16/12 at 14:39:38 62716667787573717A25140 wrote:
Definitely a good thing to check. TDCC is correct; TDCE is not. I just pull the spark plug and insert a piece of wooden dowel; TDCC gives the least distance to the piston. There's probably a better way but it works for me. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by Mr.Orange on 08/16/12 at 16:08:05 CCW. The rotation the tires move. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by CaptialThumper on 08/22/12 at 19:54:39 Same here... "Ting ting ting ting" coming from the head region once the engine is warm. I gapped the valves (turning CCW and definitely TDCC based on valve movements and difficulty moving the breaker bar) put it all back together and.... No difference. The bike is a 2007 with 8000 km on it. A friend has a 2004, but I haven't heard it running warm yet to compare. Any ideas? |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by LouSiana on 08/23/12 at 14:49:43 A soft ticking sound of the valves is quite normal, if the engine gets hot. If you listen closely, the same sound is there when the engine is cold, but then not as loud as on a hot engine. You can adjust them a bit closer if you can get a feeler gauge of 0,08mm, thats the minimum clearance. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by CaptialThumper on 08/23/12 at 21:35:28 I'm hoping that the noise is normal, but until I can hear another engine for comparison, it's hard to know. You know? :-? |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by renegade1 on 08/24/12 at 00:27:37 if you fix the cap and do not check valve clearances, what potentially could go wrong? |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by LouSiana on 08/24/12 at 00:41:54 I know for sure! I have heard quite some Savage's around here and will hear a lot of them again this weekend. We are going to have a Motorbike party from our LS-forum in Germany [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]... That won't help you, I know. But don't be to anxious. "She" is not a glamour girl and if "she" got an arm with a hand, she would scratch her a** in public ;) It is usual rising good audible tic's from the valves when hot, even if you wear a helmet. If the rocker arm pads working on the lobes of the cam were worn out, that would generate nasty and awkward sounds even if the engine is cold. Could you make a short video and post it on youtube? ...might help a lot! |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by LouSiana on 08/24/12 at 00:53:39 3B2C272C2E282D2C78490 wrote:
normally... nothing! The valve clearance should not differ at all, but usually you should check it just to be sure. The position of the head cover cannot be moved, even in use of excessive amounts of sealing agent. This could block the oil gallery, a perfect catastrophy... |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by MeLikeBike on 09/03/12 at 18:14:17 I just (re)-checked the valves on my 03, and it's the same. To spec, and still a not-so-soft ticking. I'd call it a "tacking" rather than a ticking. But no other Savages around the I know of to compare. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/03/12 at 22:32:08 To Spec,, that leaves a bit,, how did you get the feeler gauge in there? What feelers did you use? Are you sure you had the feeler straight? Is it bent in a Z shape? |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by MeLikeBike on 09/04/12 at 05:17:59 I used the $2.99 feeler gauge set from Harbor Freight. Pushed them right in, though there was some wiggling for the tigher fits. And I had to flex the feeler into an S-curve to get it in, but tried to get it reasonably flat at the point of contact. Basically, depending on the valve, I could get the .003 or .004 in there and slide it around with some friction, but couldn't get the .005 or .006 to even go in. Since I didn't have some offset wrenches, or a screwdriver that would reach the darn screw with the engine on the bike, I basically finger tightened the adjuster screw with the .005 gauge in there, then finger tightened the locknut, then took the feeler out, then used a torque socket wrench (10 bucks at HF with coupon this week!) to tighten the locknut. Then I'd check the gap again. With a little playing around, I could zone in on it, but boy what a pain. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by CaptialThumper on 09/04/12 at 06:05:11 It's definitely awkward in there. It would be really nice if there were a way to tighten those lock nuts without having to try to keep the screws from turning. :( |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by Paraquat on 09/04/12 at 06:14:15 Open ended wrench and a stubby screw driver to snug it and then go back with the box end. IIRC the torque spec isn't that high... on the whole bike. The whole darn bike is like 8-15 ft lbs. --Steve |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by CaptialThumper on 09/04/12 at 09:09:34 You don't find that tightening the lock nut turns the screws? Maybe I'm doing something wrong. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/04/12 at 09:13:01 Get a 90* flat blade screwdriver to hold the adjuster while you snug the jam nut. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by Digger on 09/08/12 at 18:58:14 50465342554A4E5F270 wrote:
This may be what you're looking for: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0073/ I've never tried 'em, though..... |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/08/12 at 21:49:48 3B242225383F0E3E0E36242863510 wrote:
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by LouSiana on 09/09/12 at 00:36:35 30263322352A2E3F470 wrote:
No, you don't do wrong. This can occur without being anything suspectable. The threads are very well and precisely machined, so the torque you give to the lock nut can affect the bolt in the rocker arm. A good screwdriver, a sure hand and a little training is all you need to get that done. But the hints about the 90* flat blade screwdriver and that link to the motion pro shop are very good ( a friend of mine has those adjuster helpers in daily use, and I think he wouldn't if they weren't worth it. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by rfw2003 on 09/09/12 at 00:44:50 I might have to pick me up a set of those from Motion Pro. Those look really nice |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by verslagen1 on 09/09/12 at 07:19:18 Those work really well... on the exhaust side. Not enough room on the intake side. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by ralfyguy on 09/09/12 at 11:08:17 243720213E3335373C63520 wrote:
That's right, pretty tight around there, plus I rather have the ability to see and observe the adjuster slot if it moves when tightening the nut. Just makes me feel better. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by CaptialThumper on 09/09/12 at 17:26:08 I found some right angle screw drivers. I'll give them a shot next time the valves need some love. Hopefully tht won't be for some time... |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/09/12 at 22:26:22 90* drivers are at Sears. One end is phillips, I ground mine to a flat blade opposite to the other end. Wurx Great. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by ralfyguy on 09/10/12 at 04:26:54 36292F2835320333033B29256E5C0 wrote:
Yeah man, it just dawned on me that the slot is not always in a convenient direction and you actually need the other end turned 90 degrees from the opposite. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by Savage_Rob on 09/14/12 at 12:24:47 715C52525047350 wrote:
This may be what you're looking for: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0073/ I've never tried 'em, though.....[/quote] They work, similar to a wrench and offset or stubby screwdriver. |
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Title: Re: Valve Adjustment Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/14/12 at 17:05:03 Thats a lotta $$$ for something that only gets used every 5,000 miles or so., The 10 MM end wrench is already in the tool box, all ya really need is the offset screwdriver for 3 or 4 bucks, & those look kinda chunky,, & theres not much room to work in, sure hate to drop that $$$ & not even be able to get them in there.. |
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