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Message started by RanDaMan on 08/01/12 at 06:52:23

Title: Stripped!
Post by RanDaMan on 08/01/12 at 06:52:23

I had taken the carb off to replace the white spacer with a couple washers from lancer and when carefully removing the two little screw inside the diaphram cylinder that hold the needle in one of them stripped!  >:(  is there a way to tackle this situation and keep the diaphram i have or do i have to find a new one?  :-[

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by Oldfeller on 08/01/12 at 07:06:43

 
Ran, check the hole for unused / unstripped threads down deeper in the hole.  You can reach these undamaged threads with a longer screw.

If not, do you know how to drill and tap a new oversized hole?

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by RanDaMan on 08/01/12 at 07:15:23

O.F  yes i know how to drill out and tap a new hole but unfortunalty its not the threads that are the issue (unless you mean drilling out the enitre screw?) when i was trying to remove the screw with a philips head is stripped. i tried using several sizes of philips head screwdrivers after that and none of them were succesful they just aided in stripping the screw further.  :(


I figured those tiny screws were too small to attempt an extractor of some sort and the tube is too deep to try and get a set of needle nose pliers on the head of the screw.





Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by Oldfeller on 08/01/12 at 07:22:43

 
So, to be more precise -- you have rounded off the phillips head recess on the screw?

If this is the case, then you can drill it out.   Fine fiddly work, to be sure.

http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piece-left-hand-drill-bit-set-95146.html

If you go there, consider using a left hand bit to do the head drilling.   It offers the advantage of when the screw loses clamp tension between shank and head, the left hand direction of the drill bit instantly backs the screw out of the hole, preventing you from doing a drill through error.

Some have had success putting a slot in the screw head and using a flat blade, others have reported using a pair of vice grips with a needle nose configuration that can get down to grip the screw head well enough to back it off.

Good luck with your repairs, and remember --  that diaphragm-slider assembly is worth nearly $170 to Suzuki when you go to buy one.

Paying a competent, well equipped dealership mechanic $15-20 to get the damaged screws out might not be a bad idea as long as they will stand good for their goof ups should they screw it up.

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by Routy on 08/01/12 at 07:28:36

I have stressed over and over....to use a new good fitting driver,......
lots a pressure, and, YOU DON"T LET IT STRIP !
Some here even stress using a little impact driver,.....I'm not sure about that. Ok ok, the milk is spilt !! shut up !

If you were to take a dremel and grind the head off the screw, or drill it off, then remove the needle assy, then the screw should be loose,......and there should be enuff sticking out to get a needle nose plyers on it ??

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by RanDaMan on 08/01/12 at 07:35:24

yes thats what i have done! ill look into geting a set of the left handed drill bits I jsut dont want to mess up that diaphragm in the process.

Just incase something does happen would you know where i could purchase a new one? or would i have to purchase a new carb all together?



EDIT


I dont know if the drill bits are or will long enough to reach down that cylinder.  :-?

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by Dave on 08/01/12 at 07:52:33

Here is a link to the parts page.  You need to find one of these you are comfortable with, and use it as a reference on how things are put together.  This page is from the Honda/Suzuki/Kawasaki dealer that is close to me - but I believe they all use the same parts finder software.
http://www.hondaofflorence.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=432120&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=2005&fveh=10118

The part is available....but as OF said......Suzuki does hold it dear and wants lots of money to send one your way.

Those tiny little screws are really tight......and a new and unworn phillips screwdriver is a necessity.  It is not often done - but when flat and phillips screwdrivers become worn and the edges start to get round - it is time to replace them.  Using a worn screwdriver on tight screws can often end up making a difficult situation.  On my carb - I have replaced the top and bottom screws with allen heads - but those tiny slide screws I just replaced with new Phillips screws.  Surprisingly - my local hardware store has a good selection of metric fasteners.  

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by RanDaMan on 08/01/12 at 07:54:08


48475D465A5C4F4D454B5C2E0 wrote:
I have stressed over and over....to use a new good fitting driver,......
lots a pressure, and, YOU DON"T LET IT STRIP !
Some here even stress using a little impact driver,.....I'm not sure about that. Ok ok, the milk is spilt !! shut up !

If you were to take a dremel and grind the head off the screw, or drill it off, then remove the needle assy, then the screw should be loose,......and there should be enuff sticking out to get a needle nose plyers on it ??




I wish I could go back and put your advice to good use Routy but thats a good idea with the dremel if all else fails ill give that a try! its not that i NEED to change the spacer but it would be nice to have a little more kick in the mid range acceleration.

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by Dave on 08/01/12 at 07:57:51


0B38371D38143837590 wrote:
[quote author=48475D465A5C4F4D454B5C2E0 link=1343829144/0#4 date=1343831316]I have stressed over and over....to use a new good fitting driver,......
lots a pressure, and, YOU DON"T LET IT STRIP !
Some here even stress using a little impact driver,.....I'm not sure about that. Ok ok, the milk is spilt !! shut up !

If you were to take a dremel and grind the head off the screw, or drill it off, then remove the needle assy, then the screw should be loose,......and there should be enuff sticking out to get a needle nose plyers on it ??




I wish I could go back and put your advice to good use Routy but thats a good idea with the dremel if all else fails ill give that a try! its not that i NEED to change the spacer but it would be nice to have a little more kick in the mid range acceleration. [/quote]

I don't believe this is terminal for you - once you drill the damaged head off the tiny fastener the tension will be relieved and the screw should come out easily.  This area is well protected from corrosion and sealed up - and chances are the threaded portion will come right out when the head is gone and the tension is off.  Exhaust flange studs are a different story altogether..........and they can really get the threads locked into the aluminum cylinder......use plenty of anti-sieze when you put the exhaust flange bolts back into a cylinder!

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by RanDaMan on 08/01/12 at 07:58:37


506B6671606C77716A626F70030 wrote:
Here is a link to the parts page.  You need to find one of these you are comfortable with, and use it as a reference on how things are put together.  This page is from the Honda/Suzuki/Kawasaki dealer that is close to me - but I believe they all use the same parts finder software.
http://www.hondaofflorence.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=432120&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=2005&fveh=10118

The part is available....but as OF said......Suzuki does hold it dear and wants lots of money to send one your way.
 




:o  you werent kidding that assembly is pricey! id rather but a new carb then pay that hahah! its like buying a new printer instead of buying the ink catridge!

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by arteacher on 08/01/12 at 09:00:36

Although grinding the tip of regular philips head screwdrivers has served me well, I just ordered a set of JIS drivers from ikaswebshop .com.

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by ralfyguy on 08/01/12 at 11:06:17

I slowly got rid of any JIS screw I could find on my bike and replaced them with SS socket head screws where possible.
Do yourself a favor and do the same if you can. At least get metric screws with Philips or slot heads, or even hex heads.

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by RanDaMan on 08/01/12 at 11:09:55

What is JIS?  :-?

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/01/12 at 14:13:12

First step on a phillips head that strips is a pin punch to try to lay the metal back in place & restore the X.

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by arteacher on 08/01/12 at 16:22:30


1B28270D28042827490 wrote:
What is JIS?  :-?

Japan Industry Standard.

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by Routy on 08/01/12 at 22:38:36

Quote:
its not that i NEED to change the spacer but it would be nice to have a little more kick in the mid range acceleration.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
If you do not have noticeable lean running condition while loafing along at lower rpm in 2nd and 3rd gear, anything that can be corrected by 1 knotch on the choke, I would not change the spacer, especially because of the tite spot you're in.
And I almost know you're not gonna notice any improvement in acceleration, or any that a slightly bigger main jet won't fix.

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/02/12 at 06:09:29


3C2325223F3809390931232F64560 wrote:
First step on a phillips head that strips is a pin punch to try to lay the metal back in place & restore the X.



Step 2 is a proper fitting tool,.
An impact driver is super handy,the hammer strike shoves the driver tip into the X, the banging tends to loosen stuck threads. The HF driver came with tips, one was a long skinny dude,, mite need to file the tip off a tad, but youve got one out, so you can look at how it fits & get a tip that will get in the other one nicely,

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by RanDaMan on 08/02/12 at 06:19:16


212A2A232F20213B3A4E0 wrote:
[quote author=1B28270D28042827490 link=1343829144/0#12 date=1343844595]What is JIS?  :-?

Japan Industry Standard.[/quote]



OOOHHHH!!

Is there a list of some sort of all the JIS bolts/screws that would be recommended to swap out with american standard bolts/screws to avoid excessive stripping?  for example the four screws on the top of the carb that people tend to have problems with

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/02/12 at 06:40:37

If you get those screws outta the carb w/o wrecking them,you can leave them, just use antisieze going back together,
Ive still got the OEM screws in the valve covers. Just takes a little care.
Its a lot easier to get a #2 Phillips & grind the tip flat till the tip sits down in the X. The hand held impact is just a super little tool. One very well spent $5.00.


Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by RanDaMan on 08/02/12 at 06:53:29

Ill have to look into those screwdrivers. I wish i had one before i stripped a screw but oh well you live, you learn.

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by CalisOsin on 08/02/12 at 16:29:42

Depending on just how bad you stripped it, a simple solution might be to use a rubber band like in this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AclA-7YntvE

Also, maybe you can just cut a straight line in the top of the bolt head and use a flat head to get it out.

Good luck!

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/02/12 at 21:12:13

.Ive been fixin crap for decades.. if ya mess up a phillips head, use a pin punch & set the metal back in place, get a proper fitting tool & do it right.

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by RanDaMan on 08/03/12 at 06:50:46

I dont know if it wil be as simple as pin punching it. its stripped pretty bad i might have to try the flat head technique there is no more x on the top of the screw  :-/  

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by Routy on 08/03/12 at 07:44:57


202F352E323427252D2334460 wrote:
Quote:
its not that i NEED to change the spacer but it would be nice to have a little more kick in the mid range acceleration.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
If you do not have noticeable lean running condition while loafing along at lower rpm in 2nd and 3rd gear, anything that can be corrected by 1 knotch on the choke, I would not change the spacer, especially because of the tite spot you're in.
And I almost know you're not gonna notice any improvement in acceleration, or any that a slightly bigger main jet won't fix.


This is the last time I'm going to repeat this !
If 1 notch on the choke didn't make it run better, DON'T do this mod !
And you better hope my next post won't be "I told you so !" :o

Many of these mode have been reversed because there was nothing gained.

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/03/12 at 07:52:36

Once a screwdriver slips, its time to stop.

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by RanDaMan on 08/03/12 at 08:53:46


657A7C7B6661506050687A763D0F0 wrote:
Once a screwdriver slips, its time to stop.



Yeah i was hoping that a bigger one would of done the job after the first slip, then it slipped again, and again, and again . . .  :-[  




and Routy I thought the spacer mod would help gain acceleration in the mid range throttle?  :-?  I dont really know what the choke does for the bike my knowledge of that is simply if its cold and wont start pull the choke and start it. thats all i know about the choke. could you explain why running it with the choke might help?

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by RanDaMan on 08/03/12 at 09:00:03


202F352E323427252D2334460 wrote:
[quote author=202F352E323427252D2334460 link=1343829144/15#15 date=1343885916]
--------------------------------------------------------------------
If you do not have noticeable lean running condition while loafing along at lower rpm in 2nd and 3rd gear, anything that can be corrected by 1 knotch on the choke, I would not change the spacer, especially because of the tite spot you're in.
And I almost know you're not gonna notice any improvement in acceleration, or any that a slightly bigger main jet won't fix.



I have read that if your running 1/4 throttle and it surges and hunts it means the pilot jet is too lean. my bike does do this but not bad. im running a 55 pilot jet though and dont want to lose a severe amount of MPG's and other guys are running similar set ups as me. k&n cone dyna exhaust and they are running stock pilot jets. for main jet im running a 155 and i have tested it using the full throttle from 40 mph for several seconds and letting off an 1/8 throttle there is no noticable gain in power for a second so i feel like my main jet is ok. but im not an expert at it.  :-/

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by Routy on 08/03/12 at 20:09:36

Quote:
I have read that if your running 1/4 throttle and it surges and hunts it means the pilot jet is too lean. my bike does do this but not bad.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
When you're hunting and surging along at 1/4 throttle, does 1 click on the choke improve it ? If so, then from my experience, a thinner white spacer will correct it.
If changing the pilot jet fixes it also, I would not know about that.
I do know that I didn't notice any improvement or change in acceleration after the spacer mod,......but it sure did fix the 1/4 throttle surging problem.

Title: Re: Stripped!
Post by ralfyguy on 08/03/12 at 22:39:43

After I nodded my spacer, the bike actually ran like a totally different animal in my case. The mid-range throttle response was so much better.
So for me it mad a big difference.

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