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Message started by scubachef on 06/24/12 at 16:18:01

Title: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by scubachef on 06/24/12 at 16:18:01

Hello all, I had an oil leak from the shift lever oil seal and took the cover off to replace the seal. When removing the cover the shift lever came with it. I want to make sure I have it in the proper position. The bike was in neutral before removing the cover.

Can someone verify the correct position it should be in for neutral. The pic below shows where it seemed to want to go....but I am suspicious.

Thanks!
http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j339/chefsamurai/2012-06-24_15-54-22_478.jpg

Title: Re: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/24/12 at 16:25:47

Ive never been in there, but if I was doin it w/o someone there who KNEW for sure, thats how Id do it. Now, Id put a rag on the teeth & grab it with vise grips & shift it. Or, Id look at the manual, surely you didnt walk off in there without one,, did ya?

Title: Re: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by verslagen1 on 06/24/12 at 16:55:56

I always heard the middle teeth should line up together. :-?
I always wondered what that meant.
Now I do.

I'm guessin' you got it right.

Title: Re: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by Flemming from Denmark on 06/24/12 at 17:03:19

Placed in same position as mine - And I have all 5 gears :)

Title: Re: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/24/12 at 18:28:14

2D3F3A3A334A0 wrote:

Placed in same position as mine - And I have all 5 gears :)

& that aint bad for guy runnin a 4 speed!

Title: Re: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by scubachef on 06/24/12 at 19:24:14

Thanks all. I did read up thoroughly via the clymers manual about the transmission and gear selector and the removal of the cover before diving in.....it showed the abilty to remove the cover while the gear shifter stayed in place. So fyi, at least in my case we can add this to the list of inaccuracies.

It seems like someone tried this prior. My cover is really gouged in and around the seal area. The seal ripped badly after attempting to get it out. Cant get it out of the perimeter area..... >:( This not sure if it is salvagable.

This hasnt gone well. If i come up with a fantastic solution to the issue i will certainly post for anyone that would find themselves in the same perdicament.

Title: Re: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/24/12 at 19:28:05

POst pics of what youre fighting, maybe we can help.

Title: Re: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by scubachef on 06/25/12 at 10:34:44

I got the seal replaced, I ended up taking down the blade width of a standard screw driver and squaring the front off to make sure it was blunt and used it to carefully drive the broken seal out. Took a while and was tedious but worked well and the cover doesn't have any scarring from it. A 19/32 socket was a good size to drive the new seal in. Put everything back together and the last bolt to tighten down was the bottom front (with the locating dowel).....and low and behold I feel it come loose >:( (I looked through Clymer's and wasn't seeing a torque spec for this cover so I went with 7ft/lb.)

So after a bit of investigation and thoughts of where the get the appropriate heli-coil I see something that I wanted to share. The engine case is threaded pretty deeply, much more than needed. I don't know if this goes for other parts of the engine but the threads for this cover seem to extend back farther than needed so I am going to grab a longer bolt and that should solve this problem. I see the lost threads were at the front so I cleaned it out and threaded the bolt into the hole with no cover and it catches fine.

Knowing that the aluminium was so soft did Suzuki throw their technicians a bone and build a safety of sorts into the case. Maybe this is a secret the Suzuki technicians know but isn't advertised? Thought it was interesting.

Title: Re: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/25/12 at 11:07:23

A 1/4" ratchet is easier to use & not so likely to twist threads out. Use fingers & wrist, not the arm, & go slow & FEEL of the feedback from the threads. You should be able to feel it come tight,
Its better to have a little leak & have to tighten them again than twist something to death,,

Also, bring all bolts down to contact, then work everything down like torquing a head, cross tightening, no hurry, its better to hit every bolt 5 times than have to fix a ripped out thread, I use a nut driver to get every bolt "Landed", then I put a twist on them with a ratchet & keep going back & forth till I feel them start to resist, then I go Sloooow & feel each one as it pulls tite, I havent wrecked any threads in years,,
I even still have the OEM bolts in the valve covers.

Title: Re: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by babyhog on 06/25/12 at 12:49:13

647760617E7375777C23120 wrote:

I always heard the middle teeth should line up together. :-?
I always wondered what that meant.
Now I do.

I'm guessin' you got it right.

Bout time somebody taught verslagen something about this bike that he didn't know! ;) scuba gets a thumbs up! [smiley=thumbup.gif]

Title: Re: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by verslagen1 on 06/25/12 at 13:34:24

BH you just reminded me of something... last person to have this off, had a problem with that washer. It's backed up with a retaining ring that just pinches on there. You might check the axle freeplay before you torque the cover down. you don't want to much in and out freeplay or the gears will become disengaged.
http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j339/chefsamurai/2012-06-24_15-54-22_478.jpg

Title: Re: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by 360k+ on 06/25/12 at 15:47:46

Since these members must return to center in any gear, it seems optimized because there is a tooth/cog both above and below the current position shown. Lift the back tire (frame jack), and place the shift lever on the shaft to see if you can go thru all gears while jiggling the rear tire.

Title: Re: Shift Lever Pawl Position
Post by scubachef on 06/25/12 at 17:37:54

Update, it dawned on me that it wasn't just the soft aluminium to blame....when I put the bolts back in I forgot to use antiseize. I am usually religious about that and just didn't do it this time. I imagine that could have been a factor.

Cover is back on and all seems well, Oil is in and it isn't on the floor :)

I replaced the 30mm stock bolt with a 40mm for my problem hole and it went in smoothly.

I wanted to ride today.. so this morning I was rushing. Guess I go down as another victim of the rushed repair that should have been 30 minutes but ended up in the 3 hour range after a lunch break and trip for the replacement bolt.

Great thought on the freeplay. I have it all buttoned up so I don't have a measurement...doesn't seems to be any different than before. Minimal movement. What would you think the acceptable limit would be?

Thanks again