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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> zero compression /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1339957587 Message started by Tom K on 06/17/12 at 11:26:27 |
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Title: zero compression Post by Tom K on 06/17/12 at 11:26:27 So...coming home from work yesterday. I'm cruising along at 75 and the bike cuts out for a moment (like a petcock issue). It dropped to 65 and held speed. I was right at my exit. At the stop sign I put in first and started to go and it died. Wouldn't restart. After checking this and that I got to the compression test. zero zip nada nothing. S&%T! I poured a little oil in and that got it up to 30psi. Any idea how bad this can be. Maybe lucky and just rings? New piston and cylinder is what I'm guessing. Maybe time for a larger bore ;) |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/17/12 at 11:37:39 Okay, its an 04, how many miles? Recent work? Anything due to be done that you shoulda done? Make sure the decomp isnt stuck. How much oil went in to jack the compression to 30 PSI? If you have access to an air hose, wrap tape or whatever around the end of a blower & pull the oil fill plug, blow into spark plug hole & see if its blowing out there. Set motor at TDC compression first. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 06/17/12 at 11:57:39 She's got about 16.5K miles. Oil may have been low. Looked at the cam chain tensioner andit still looks good. Decomp unplugged for test. and maybe a couple tablespoons of oil. Going out now to put some air to her. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/17/12 at 12:19:58 Ive never seen it happen, but in a No Compression moment, Id have to physically, manually, be certain the decomp isnt hung up. Go to the head & look at the spring that returns it & make sure its pushed as far in the direction the spring is ppushing it as possible. Vertical is where it goes IIRC. Then its time for compressed air in the cylinder to see if it blows out the oil fill hole,. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 06/17/12 at 12:29:34 wanted to make sure of TDC. Pulled out timing cover. put air to it. nothing from intake or exhaust. I got a nice breeze blowing on me from the timing cover cap hole (or whatever you'd like to call it.) |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/17/12 at 12:57:56 It'd be easier to pressure up on the oil fill hole. I wouldnt be that excited about trying that hard to create pressure in the case, tho, Id rather see it in the cylinder, So far, Im not gettin it.. One thing, gotta put it in gear at TDC or the pressure in the cylinder will push the piston down. Mite even shove it off the kickstand. Be CAREful, Mite be time to enlist a friend. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by 360k+ on 06/17/12 at 13:11:14 Make sure you open your throttle when testing, otherwise your intake is closed. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 06/17/12 at 13:26:03 To be clear. Here's what I did. Engine at TDC. Screwed in adapter into spark plug hole. Attached shop air line to adapter. Adjusted regulator on compressor to about 30 pounds. Air blows to crank case not exhaust port or intake. Also...header is already off, and throttle was open. I guess I'm gonna have to start tearing into it some more. >:( |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/17/12 at 13:47:27 Eaux Neaux.. Yep,, youve got what is called "communication" between the cylinder & the engine case. Twisting the throttle wont open the slide w/o vacuum from the engine running. Id drain the oil into a clean pan & see what ya find, but the answer is already known, whether or not theres anything in the oil. Id bet theres junk there, tho. At this point, IDK if your best move is pull the engine or do it in frame, I expect youll be pulling the jug to get to the piston & thats not gonna be fun with a bike on the floor, but neither is pulling & reinstalling an engine, This may be the time to get the bore coated & a fatter slug & a meaner cam,, & , figuring out WHY it cratered is important. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 06/17/12 at 14:01:08 I am thinking about the 95mm. I may stick with stock cam though. trying to get good mileage. ;) Although.... those guys with the big v-twins at work would be surprised by the power. :) :) Unfortunately I'm on a tight budget. If I could get by with just rings I would. Not like that'll happen. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/17/12 at 14:22:03 One thing is certain, youre going in & youre an odds on favorite for a fatter slug. YOu can do a cam later. The mechanical realities may not be aware of your budgetary constraints. I hope the problem is solvable inside your abilities to handle them. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by 360k+ on 06/17/12 at 16:19:33 4345565D1D1117161D240 wrote:
Oops, my bad. I didn't read thoroughly, and was assuming a standard compression test with a gauge. It sounded like the classic "I didn't know I was supposed to open the throttle" test results. :-/ Yep, and on a slider carb, you need a way to hold it open. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/17/12 at 16:30:45 Walk away & look ashamed, go stand in the corner, YOure on REport, Mister! Get your toothbrush & report to the latrine,, ;) |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by verslagen1 on 06/17/12 at 18:34:16 might have a burnt piston. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/17/12 at 20:36:11 Sure sounds like it., |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by LANCER on 06/18/12 at 05:08:47 534C4A4D50576656665E4C400B390 wrote:
cool, good way to check ;) |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 06/18/12 at 07:09:11 Progress update... Head is off. Top of piston looks ok. Some scoring on cylinder walls. Now...Back to work. :o |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by 360k+ on 06/18/12 at 08:49:20 6E7D6A6B74797F7D7629180 wrote:
What about a burnt valve? Ever heard of a case on the Zuk? |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/18/12 at 08:57:03 A burnt valve woulda let air out the exhaust or intake & not into the case, |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 06/18/12 at 09:02:11 Top of Piston, Not bad http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/18/bikepics-2417149-full.jpg Head, Not too Bad http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/18/bikepics-2417150-full.jpg Ah...Here's the problem http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/18/bikepics-2417151-full.jpg And again. http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/18/bikepics-2417153-full.jpg Wrist pin is a bit seized up. Rings are locked into piston. Cylinder wall not horrible. Some scoring. Maybe beyond just honing. Let me know if these pics are too big. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/18/12 at 09:42:07 Snot pretty, but it beats a hole in the piston. What causes rings to stick like that? Oil ring go bad & let oil in behind the compression ring where it bakes in & seizes the ring? |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 06/18/12 at 09:48:23 Maybe one of our experts on here can answer that. My guess... My oil was a little low and I was fighting a head wind and at full throttle to maintain 75. The wrist pin starved for oil and got tight causing the piston to bind up in the bore and started softening the aluminum piston causing the rings to get locked in. On the front side of the piston the ring are still as they should be. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Oldfeller on 06/18/12 at 11:12:08 When you get it back together, might I suggest using "the list oil checking method" as it keeps a slightly greater reserve of oil in the crankcase. These bikes do use oil, especially when they get some miles on them. This piston scoring looks like a classical case of "ran out of oil" and I bet you used the Suzuki method to check it when you did check it .... |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by RidgeRunner13 on 06/18/12 at 11:21:12 Looks like you've been using some oil for a while. Do you have the stock petcock? The conditions you described cause low vacuum & lean mixtures which would explain that melted area on the piston. If you think it starved for oil, check your cam & head. You should find damage there on the cam lobes & followers, & the cam "bearing" surfaces. Damage will occur here first if starvation was the problem. 8-) |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by verslagen1 on 06/18/12 at 11:23:40 That's what I meant by burnt piston. Piston over heated, rings are seized, can't seal on wall. How is the piston cooled? splash? |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 06/18/12 at 11:32:34 O.F. - I generally do keep it slightly overfilled. As a matter of fact I thought I had it too full just a few days ago, but was checking with less then optimum light. R.R. - Yep, still stock petcock. Most of the time it seems to do ok. But replacement is on my list. The cam and "bearing" surfaces still look ok. Haven't finished cleaning everything up however. Vers - Ah. gotcha. Was thinking you meant hole. By the way, Thanks for the replies everyone. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by zippythezip on 06/18/12 at 15:01:20 587B7371727B7B7265170 wrote:
Sorry to jump in here, what is "the list oil checking method" ? |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 07/22/12 at 13:58:28 *UPDATE* Finally got back to the bike. I really had to work at getting the wrist pin out. Galled at the conrod. It appears to have starved for oil. Now to order up a Wiseco 95mm then get to the machine shop for some over-boring. Am I correct in thinking the Wiseco for DL650 95mm piston will work? |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/22/12 at 14:55:33 What kinda shape is the con rod in>? |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by verslagen1 on 07/22/12 at 15:05:01 make sure the wrist pin hole is good and round or you'll end up the same way. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Routy on 07/22/12 at 16:48:02 Oil level ?? My brother was here the other day, both bikes setting together on their sidestands,.....my oil level was midway between the lines,........his not a drop showing in the window. I panicked,.... tried to convince him,.....but he's not only a knowitall, he thinks Suzuski is too ! I just told him he will loose ! |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Boofer on 07/22/12 at 18:50:25 I didn't read all the posts, but did see the piston. Be sure your oil pump is working correctly. Spending a lot on your engine and cranking it with no or low oil flo will definitely hurt your feelings. :) |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 07/22/12 at 19:24:13 Looks like the conrod survived. A little clean up got her in good shape. I believe the oil was a bit low. Thanks for the tip on the oil pump. I'll have to check that out. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Bobbing Tom on 07/23/12 at 03:34:55 oK, dumb question, but can someone point out the problem with those pics? I'm guessing the rings are not supposed to be flush with the side of the piston like that. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Dave on 07/23/12 at 05:03:38 0E3537741C2F34343F36365A0 wrote:
If you look at one photograph you can see where the aluminum has melted and left a shiny silver gouge at the top of the piston. The aluminum has melted and flowed/streaked and locked the piston rings into the groove, and they can no longer expand and seal against the cylinder wall. A good piston would be shiny below the rings - and smooth. Something like this: |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 07/27/12 at 06:46:04 Thanks to a bonus at work Wiseco 95mm piston and a gasket set have been ordered. :D :) |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/27/12 at 06:54:21 Those Close INspection of OIl Passageway ideas are smart, Is there any way to test the oil pump or replace it if its tired? I mean w/o splitting it,, THe oil pump doesnt get clean oil in,, |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 07/28/12 at 06:31:26 jog- not sure. I was going to look around in there. Maybe a little oil and some compressed air. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/28/12 at 10:14:09 I think I could set up a test, dam up the sump with Something,,spin the pump with a drill, but, if I had my way, once a motor has seen that kind of failure, Id sure want to see a new pump in it. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 10/23/12 at 05:04:36 Small update- I finally had some extra time. All the internals seem good to go. Got the new 95mm piston, cylinder and head mounted back up. At this rate maybe I can ride it again in the spring. :) |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Oldfeller on 10/23/12 at 09:35:23 Once you finish a 1,000 mile break in period, might I suggest using synthetic oil? Synthetic has one property that can help your engine continue to live in adverse conditions -- it can withstand temperatures that will cook dino oil into black sludge and varnish. Take another close look at your piston -- this was partially a lubrication failure due to high temps (possibly due to your vac petcock leaning out your mix due to gas starvation at full speed). :P get rid of your vacsucker I too recommend the list oil checking method as the Suzuki method leaves you always near to "too little oil" with an engine type that is known to use oil. Also, for synthetic oils that are known to work well with the Savage engine, Rotella T-6 is the least costly of the approved synthetic oils and is really a very good oil for our bikes. http://p1.bikepics.com/2012/06/18/bikepics-2417153-full.jpg |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 11/05/12 at 05:23:54 Thanks OF. Rotella T in it now. T6 already planned. She's running!!!!!!! Got her all buttoned up yesterday. I put about 8 miles on it, including a stop for some premium fuel for that nice big piston. Runs nice and strong. Looks like I'll have a good week of riding it to work. Only down to the mid 30's in the morning. Thanks for the comments, advice and recommendations everyone!! |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Oldfeller on 11/05/12 at 09:42:06 Tom, what sort of petcock do you have on the bike? If that was a Rotella T piston you got you something else going on too ..... |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by srinath on 11/05/12 at 12:43:58 4A5048555B504751503E0 wrote:
My crazy 660 skorpion almost did this exact same thing ... except it ran like a tornado till I came to the traffic light @ my exit, and there it stalled before I even stopped. Its yet to start ... and I plan on looking into it with a borescope. Cool. Srinath. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 11/05/12 at 19:14:12 O.F. - the Rotella T was a new addition. I had been using whatever oil we had bought for our cars. --I have learned-- New problem. I know rings have to seat, and I've rebuilt auto engines before. I rode it to work today and when I fired it up after work it smoked like crazy. No smoke this morning that I noticed. I went ahead and rode it home and it runs great!! Less smoke when I got home, but still some. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Oldfeller on 11/05/12 at 20:09:32 6F4C4446454C4C4552200 wrote:
See, I'll jest keep on askin' and askin' and askin' :) |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 11/05/12 at 20:39:35 ;D ;D Oops. I wasn't ignoring the question. I still have the stock one. I've been running on prime til I can get the Raptor petcock. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 11/06/12 at 05:32:49 Still trying to figure out my smoke issue. Lots of blue/oil smoke. On initial ride it didn't smoke at all. After about an 18 mile ride to work, then sitting all day it smoked like crazy on start up. I'm thinking I'll have to tear it down again and make sure I didn't tweak the oil rings. Any other ideas before I do that? |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by srinath on 11/06/12 at 05:54:56 Run it gently 10-20 min at a time till it starts to get lighter and lighter. It will, or should. Cool. srinath. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Gyrobob on 11/07/12 at 05:09:28 5349514C42495E4849270 wrote:
Why premium gas? |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 11/07/12 at 05:35:17 Well Gyro, I was told going to the 95mm wiseco piston that I'm now up around 10 to 1 compression ratio. Premium was recommended. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Gyrobob on 11/07/12 at 05:53:05 2339213C32392E3839570 wrote:
Ah. While anything over 87 is wasted on a stock motor, its probably not a bad precaution until you can make certain detonation is not a problem. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Dave on 11/07/12 at 06:25:13 69575C414C414C2E0 wrote:
Ah. While anything over 87 is wasted on a stock motor, its probably not a bad precaution until you can make certain detonation is not a problem.[/quote] Yep.....and if you buy fuel from those pumps that have all 3 blends coming out of the same hose.....you are probably getting 3/4 gallon of regular before the premium fills up the hose and starts running into your tank. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Gyrobob on 11/07/12 at 07:59:20 6E55584F5E52494F545C514E3D0 wrote:
Ah. While anything over 87 is wasted on a stock motor, its probably not a bad precaution until you can make certain detonation is not a problem.[/quote] Yep.....and if you buy fuel from those pumps that have all 3 blends coming out of the same hose.....you are probably getting 3/4 gallon of regular before the premium fills up the hose and starts running into your tank.[/quote] Yep.... and don't ever buy mid-grade. That stuff sells the slowest, so it is always the most stale. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/07/12 at 08:28:15 Volume of a cylinder is Pi X r squared X height If the manifold at the bottom of the computer ( which is just a flow meter that is attached to sending units that trigger the displays now) is 10 feet from the end of the nozzle, & the ID of the hose & internal plumbing is 3/4" ( which I think is pretty close based on what Im remembering seeing when I was working inside the pumps), then 3.1416 X .375 X .375 = .4417875 square inches ( area of a circle) times the height of the cylinder, or length of the tube, so .4417875 square inches times 120 inches ( inches squared X inches will = inches cubed) = 53 cubic inches. There are 231 cubic inches in a gallon, so, youll get about a quart of whatever was pumped last.,depending on these variables, plumbing ID & length of hose. I cant imagine getting more that 3 pints or less than 1. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Dave on 11/07/12 at 09:22:33 132D263B363B36540 wrote:
Ah. While anything over 87 is wasted on a stock motor, its probably not a bad precaution until you can make certain detonation is not a problem.[/quote] Yep.....and if you buy fuel from those pumps that have all 3 blends coming out of the same hose.....you are probably getting 3/4 gallon of regular before the premium fills up the hose and starts running into your tank.[/quote] Yep.... and don't ever buy mid-grade. That stuff sells the slowest, so it is always the most stale.[/quote] Mid Grade is just a blend of regular and premium - it is not a third tank. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Serowbot on 11/07/12 at 09:46:26 150F170A040F180E0F610 wrote:
I was always taught,.. smoke when running is rings,.. smoke upon start-up is valve stem seals... |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by SALB on 11/07/12 at 10:01:53 I asked the service tech when he was installing new card readers at the station next door to work. He said that from the switching valve in the bottom, to the top of the pump, and back down the hose was about 1/2 to 3/4 gallons. Also, there is no such thing as mid grade going old, as it is half low grade and half high grade, mixed 50/50. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Gyrobob on 11/07/12 at 10:02:08 Some stations still have mid-grade tanks. That gas is usually pretty old. Even if you do purchase midgrade at a station that mixes regular and premium before the pump to dispense mid-grade, at the quantities we use, it might as well be the same thing. The gas in the mid-grade nozzle, and the lines/pumps leading to it, has probably been sitting there for quite a while. I seldom put in more than 1.5 gallons in the RYCA, with the iddybiddy tank it has, so if I were to use mid-grade gas, I'd probably have a large portion of it quite stale. This is kind of a silly discussion, anyway, because there is never any reason for any of us to use mid-grade anyway. If your vehicle of any sort is not pinging, and the manual says regular is okay, using any gas other than regular is stupid. Midgrade and/or premium has less energy in it than regular, and has no advantage at all except to the oil companies. Some stations still have mid-grade tanks. That gas is usually pretty old. Even if you do purchase midgrade at a station that mixes regular and premium before the pump to dispense mid-grade, at the quantities we use, it might as well be the same thing. The gas in the mid-grade nozzle, and the lines/pumps leading to it, has probably been sitting there for quite a while. I seldom put in more than 1.5 gallons in the RYCA, with the iddybiddy tank it has, so if I were to use mid-grade gas, I'd probably have a large portion of it quite stale. This is kind of a silly discussion, anyway, because there is never any reason for any of us to use mid-grade anyway. If you vehicle of any sort is not pinging, and the manual says regular is okay, using any gas other than regular is stupid. Midgrade and/or premium has less energy in it than regular, and has no advantage at all except to the oil companies. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by verslagen1 on 11/07/12 at 10:34:41 5543544951444952260 wrote:
I was always taught,.. smoke when running is rings,.. smoke upon start-up is valve stem seals... [/quote] 'cept when there are no seals. :o then is smokes all the time. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/07/12 at 20:49:27 7F7C7F6B7D757B1E0 wrote:
Switching valve at the bottom of what? |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by SALB on 11/07/12 at 21:09:14 657A7C7B6661506050687A763D0F0 wrote:
Switching valve at the bottom of what? [/quote] The switching valve sits in the bottom of the pump with the filters, and switches between low grade, high grade, or a 50/50 mix for mid grade. ;) |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/07/12 at 21:28:21 That would be where the manifold I was talking about would be, I sure dont remember any switching valves, but that was,, crap,, how many years? Its been about 14 years, pump designs change,,I hated working on those things.. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Gyrobob on 11/08/12 at 04:33:12 53505347515957320 wrote:
There is too such a thing as mid-grade going old. Some stations still have midgrade tanks. The fuel trucks fill them with 50/50. Even with stations that only have regular and premium tanks, if the pump has not pumped midgrade in a few weeks or months, you are still getting stale gas that is in the midgrade line and might have had some condensation added to it. Also, as I brought up before, this is a silly discussion because there is never any reason for any Savage riders to use mid-grade, even if, for the sake of discussion, it was always as fresh as the other grades. We either use regular for a stock bike, or, for a modded bike with a hot cam or "adjusted" ignition or higher compression, premium. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Cavi Mike on 11/08/12 at 05:35:00 Actually the law says the mix can be as bad as 65/35 reg/prem so you're not really getting a proper mix. Mid grade is a total rip off. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 11/08/12 at 05:46:45 392F38253D28253E4A0 wrote:
Me too. Smokes all the time. I took it out last night for 20 minutes and still not much improvement. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by srinath on 11/09/12 at 08:06:07 6379617C72796E7879170 wrote:
Me too. Smokes all the time. I took it out last night for 20 minutes and still not much improvement.[/quote] Did you get the assembly lube all burnt off ? Is it definitely oil ? or you running rich ? Cool. srinath. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by ralfyguy on 11/09/12 at 08:54:14 494853545B4E523A0 wrote:
Me too. Smokes all the time. I took it out last night for 20 minutes and still not much improvement.[/quote] Did you get the assembly lube all burnt off ? Is it definitely oil ? or you running rich ? Cool. srinath.[/quote] Mine is doing something more weird than that, and that since years. When temps get lower in winter, when starting cold I always let it run for a minute. No smoke at startup, but then after half a minute of running it starts blueish whitish smoke for another 10 seconds then quits smoking. It only does it in winter, never in summer, and oil consumption is negligible. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Serowbot on 11/09/12 at 09:04:42 495A575D425C4E423B0 wrote:
No worries there, Ralfy boy... That,... is water vapor,... condensation in your pipe... ;)... Happens to all vehicles in winter... |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/09/12 at 09:35:10 If youre behind someone who hasnt been on the road long enough to get it warmed up good, you can see water dripping out the exhaust, |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by srinath on 11/09/12 at 10:10:44 5F4C414B544A58542D0 wrote:
Me too. Smokes all the time. I took it out last night for 20 minutes and still not much improvement.[/quote] Did you get the assembly lube all burnt off ? Is it definitely oil ? or you running rich ? Cool. srinath.[/quote] Mine is doing something more weird than that, and that since years. When temps get lower in winter, when starting cold I always let it run for a minute. No smoke at startup, but then after half a minute of running it starts blueish whitish smoke for another 10 seconds then quits smoking. It only does it in winter, never in summer, and oil consumption is negligible. [/quote] Maybe ... maybe not that water vapor thing serowbot said. This is a litte more serious scenario. Valves when cold have a clearance lets say 1 thou. After the motor fully comes up to temperature, that will increase usually but by a very small amount, say 1.25 thou. However the components all do not heat up @ the same rate. The parts that get the hottest fastest are the exhaust valves, cos the exhaust is streaming past its stem. Since that is 1 heat path and the other path is the head which typically get to temp the slowest, you can easily have a valve staying open as the heat builds ... usually may not be an issue ... but worth checking your clearance, and if you're tending close to the limit on the exhaust, go ahead and set it toward the high end of the spec and you could see this go away. Cool. Srinath. |
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Title: Re: zero compression Post by Tom K on 11/10/12 at 05:53:04 787962656A7F630B0 wrote:
Definitely oil. About 40 miles on it now. |
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