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General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Clutch Change / no tension
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Message started by 2stroketim on 04/14/12 at 15:59:46

Title: Clutch Change / no tension
Post by 2stroketim on 04/14/12 at 15:59:46

just swaped the clutch plates in my 2000. Got everything buttoned back up, went to reattach the cable. I think I may need a new cable: however, before I changed the plates, I had SOME lever pull left. I could ride and it would dis/engage. Now, it's like my clutch cable is way too long. No pull at the lever what so ever.

Did I put it back together wrong? Maybe just need a new cable? I would think that the cable would be ok, cause it was when I pulled it apart. The adjustment at the lever was basically all the way out, maybe 2 thread into the lever.

Any help would be greatly appreciated - - - thanks, keep the sun at your back, and the wind in your face.....

Title: Re: Clutch Change / no tension
Post by verslagen1 on 04/14/12 at 16:11:47

did you remember to put the clutch rod back in?

Title: Re: Clutch Change / no tension
Post by 2stroketim on 04/14/12 at 16:16:35

The little rod the slides into the opening in the 33mm nut shaft? yes sir.

I made sure to double check my work space for extra parts.

Title: Re: Clutch Change / no tension
Post by verslagen1 on 04/14/12 at 16:20:52

and did you have tension on the lever when you reattached the cable?

Title: Re: Clutch Change / no tension
Post by 2stroketim on 04/14/12 at 16:24:06

Nope. There was lever tension before the change. Not much - I had to pull the lever completely against the grip, and the adjuster was backed all the way out, maybe 2-3 threads into the lever.

went to reconnect the cable to the lever, and it's really like the cable is an inch too long.

Pull the lever, and it hits the grip; then stays there.

Title: Re: Clutch Change / no tension
Post by Oldfeller on 04/14/12 at 16:35:30

I hope you haven't thrown away your old fiber clutch plates, there isn't anything wrong with them and they are perfectly useable.

All you really had to do was to change out your clutch push rod (same one that Verslagen was asking about). They come in 3 different lengths, you pick the one that puts your solid silver clutch lever in between the marks on the case.

Very easy to do, doesn't cost much and it keeps you out of the clutch basket and what rests behind it (keeps you safe).

Swapping out your fibers doesn't hurt anything, of course.

That is -- if you put it all back together correctly that is, with your angled thrust washer in the right place with your behind the basket flange washer facing the correct way, with your flange washer & drive gear to basket stop pin in place like it is supposed to be, and with your oil pump gear fully & properly engaged and working properly.

You wouldn't think you could scrap out your whole engine due to no oil pressure because you didn't put the clutch basket and the various bits & flanges and gears that sit behind it back in place correctly, now would you?

But you can .... jest ask Justin or Serenity about that.

Title: Re: Clutch Change / no tension
Post by 2stroketim on 04/14/12 at 17:14:12

I think I get ya. bike bandit is listing 3 part numbers for that piece. That's all I need to replace? I still have the old fibers, but the new ones shouldn't hurt.

So - how do i go about determining which one I need? Replacing part number 1059818 (22) here:

http://www.bikebandit.com/2000-suzuki-savage-650-ls650p/o/m147741#sch247801

it also lists 1059819, and 1059820. I would guess that the 18 part is a little shorter? and the 20 piece is longer?

Sucks that I need to take that cover off again. And replacing that little pin is gonna tighten up my cable?

Why would it be (somewhat) ok when I took it apart, and bad when I put it back?

Title: Re: Clutch Change / no tension
Post by verslagen1 on 04/14/12 at 17:41:09

as they're only a couple bucks each... I'd get both. but you might want to measure the one you have.

take a look at your clutch lever on the case. there's two marks above and below it. pulling it up to take all the slack out should put you about mid way between them.

and when you take the cover off, measure how much the pin sticks out, should be about 12.5 mm (on mine anyway) 13mm and above will cause the clutch to slip.

Title: Re: Clutch Change / no tension
Post by 2stroketim on 04/18/12 at 08:40:05

Looks like all the clutch push rods in the country are on backorder. Sweet.
Made a call to my local dealer - he seems to think that there is something else going on besides the push rod.

I am fairly sure that I put everything back together properly; anyone got any other idears? Maybe take it all apart and start over?

Should have been pretty easy job, I've changed clutches before with no issues...

Title: Re: Clutch Change / no tension
Post by verslagen1 on 04/18/12 at 08:42:30

1st time I did one, it didn't operate after.
and all I did to fix it was loosen the plates knock it around then it worked.

As for clutch rods... I'm trying tool steel dowel pins. seems to be holding up ok.

Title: Re: Clutch Change / no tension
Post by 2stroketim on 04/24/12 at 08:25:05

Well the verdict is in:

The clutch push rod going bad is highly unlikely.

Apparently, the deal is, you need to put the plates back in, in the correct order. I felt like a complete douche bag when the mechanic told me that. I know how I switched them around, and will not screw that up again.

Thanks for the help guys and gals