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Message started by EJID on 02/17/12 at 14:37:38

Title: Brake Bleeding?
Post by EJID on 02/17/12 at 14:37:38

Ok, so I have a new SS brake line en-route to me  :) but I've never changed a brake line before so I have a few questions  :-/

(I didn't see a clear tech article on here either, so maybe I can create one when I replace my line if I have good advice)

Any advice? If not, it's off to you-tube  ::)

Title: Re: Brake Bleeding?
Post by verslagen1 on 02/17/12 at 14:51:57

When you put the new lines on, or when your lines are completely empty, it'll be hard to get the fluid to flow.  Don't panic.
Loosen the top and bottom banjo and bleeder valve, then pump it or use a vacuum bleeder and just loosen the bleeder.
Once started, it'll practically flow by itself.

Title: Re: Brake Bleeding?
Post by MotoBuddha on 02/17/12 at 16:35:45

Here's what works for me:

- Remove the caliper, open the bleed nipple, drain existing fluid, push in the piston to get the rest out.
- Remount the caliper, remove the old hose, mount the new one.
- Attach a piece of tubing to the bleed nipple (make sure it fits snugly) and put the other end in a jar of water or old brake fluid, open the nipple.
- Fill the reservoir, flip the lever a few times, then tape it back against the grip. Leave it overnight.
- Untape the lever, close the nipple and repeat the following until you get firm pressure in the lever: squeeze and hold the lever, open the nipple, watch bubbles come out, close nipple, release the lever, squeeze and hold the lever, open and close the nipple, and so on. Never open the nipple unless the lever is pulled. Never let go of the lever when the nipple is open.


Title: Re: Brake Bleeding?
Post by palehorseman on 02/17/12 at 17:10:28

I made a bleed tool for doing truck brakes by myself without a pump partner that works for any hydrolic system. Really easy n cheap to make.
To change a hose: Get an old soda bottle 12 oz or bigger. 20 oz is perfect for a bike. One fuel line or similer tube that fits snugly over the bleed screw. And some string n shop rags. The tube fits over the bleed screw and should be cut two inches past where it hits the floor when attached to the bleeder. Put the hose in the soda bottle.
Open the bleeder... but just enough to bleed. If you go out to far air gets sucked in later on. Its best to apply a little pressure to the lever and open til it flows without restriction under lever pressure into the bottle.
Pump the brake until the resivour is empty. Then Squeeze caliper to spend all the old fluid. Open resivour to varify its empty and remove any forign material.
Remove brake line. Replace breakline.
Very important...Replace old spent fluid in bottle with new so tube is submerged a few inches in ...new dot4... Dispose of old fluid by capping bottle. Use a new clean bottle if possible. Fill resivour w new fluid. ...dot 4... and Pump brake slowely.
Heres why clean fluid in the bottle is vital ... At first youll see bubbles. Each time you expell air it returns the fluid you put in the soda bottle. Keep the resi full.  
Pump till bubbles stop.
Close bleeder...
best bleed ever. Cant be beat!
Note: use the string to keep the bottle upright by hanging it from the bars.
the shop rags will come in handy when you dont use the string.
This works on any vehicle without help.
Good luck!
Enjoy :)

Title: Re: Brake Bleeding?
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/17/12 at 18:06:28

& if youre ever junking out a refrigerator or air conditioner that the compressor still works on, pull that thing & keep it. It will work to pull an A/C unit down so you can recharge it or as a brake bleeding vac. Just gotta put 2 pieces of 1/8 inch brass tubing thru the lid on a mason jar & solder them in. Hook up one to the bleeder & one to the vacuum side of the compressor. Screw the lid down tight enough so the seal on the lid holds the vacuum. Its good to have a switch handy & be able to shut it off close to the work.

Title: Re: Brake Bleeding?
Post by il67bp on 02/17/12 at 19:11:17

not sure if they make them in the right size for the savage but check out speedbleeders.. they make bleeding the brakes effortless and you can do it by yourself. i changed to them on my truck and wow i wish i had done it earlier

Title: Re: Brake Bleeding?
Post by palehorseman on 02/17/12 at 21:40:36


617E787F62655464546C7E72390B0 wrote:
& if youre ever junking out a refrigerator or air conditioner that the compressor still works on, pull that thing & keep it. It will work to pull an A/C unit down so you can recharge it or as a brake bleeding vac. Just gotta put 2 pieces of 1/8 inch brass tubing thru the lid on a mason jar & solder them in. Hook up one to the bleeder & one to the vacuum side of the compressor. Screw the lid down tight enough so the seal on the lid holds the vacuum. Its good to have a switch handy & be able to shut it off close to the work.

Nice one.

Title: Re: Brake Bleeding?
Post by Savage_Rob on 02/18/12 at 22:24:37


787D27267361110 wrote:
not sure if they make them in the right size for the savage but check out speedbleeders.. they make bleeding the brakes effortless and you can do it by yourself. i changed to them on my truck and wow i wish i had done it earlier

I picked one up cheap at Harbor Freight and it works just fine but you have to be careful because they can suck it out FAST and you'll just be pulling air.

Title: Re: Brake Bleeding?
Post by EJID on 03/03/12 at 18:51:02


406279624F786969656C0D0 wrote:
Here's what works for me:

- Remove the caliper, open the bleed nipple, drain existing fluid, push in the piston to get the rest out.
- Remount the caliper, remove the old hose, mount the new one.
- Attach a piece of tubing to the bleed nipple (make sure it fits snugly) and put the other end in a jar of water or old brake fluid, open the nipple.
- Fill the reservoir, flip the lever a few times, then tape it back against the grip. Leave it overnight.
- Untape the lever, close the nipple and repeat the following until you get firm pressure in the lever: squeeze and hold the lever, open the nipple, watch bubbles come out, close nipple, release the lever, squeeze and hold the lever, open and close the nipple, and so on. Never open the nipple unless the lever is pulled. Never let go of the lever when the nipple is open.


Got my new line this week, and I'm going to give this a try tonight.  :-/


Title: Re: Brake Bleeding?
Post by RidgeRunner13 on 03/03/12 at 19:16:17

You guys make this harder than it has to be.

Put a clear hose long enough to reach the master cylinder on the slightly opened bleeder screw. Hold the loose end of the hose in the m/c reservoir under the fluid level & squeeze the brake lever until you have a solid stream of fluid in the hose. Do not let the free end come out of the fluid while you're doing this. Once there are no bubbles in the hose, close the bleeder & using a rag remove your bleeder hose, first at m/c, then at bleeder. If you do this right, you won't have a mess to clean up & you will have the firmest brake ever.

Works every time for me.....  8-)

Title: Re: Brake Bleeding?
Post by EJID on 03/03/12 at 19:27:45


7C474A494B7C5B40404B5C1F1D2E0 wrote:
You guys make this harder than it has to be.

Put a clear hose long enough to reach the master cylinder on the slightly opened bleeder screw. Hold the loose end of the hose in the m/c reservoir under the fluid level & squeeze the brake lever until you have a solid stream of fluid in the hose. Do not let the free end come out of the fluid while you're doing this. Once there are no bubbles in the hose, close the bleeder & using a rag remove your bleeder hose, first at m/c, then at bleeder. If you do this right, you won't have a mess to clean up & you will have the firmest brake ever.

Works every time for me.....  8-)


I'll see if the hose I have is long enough to try it your way (it sounds better anyway)

Already had my first mishap...  :-[ ...I bought DOT 3 fluid instead of DOT 4 - had to make a quick run back to the store and exchange it. Just glad I noticed it marked on the master cylinder before I started.

Title: Re: Brake Bleeding?
Post by EJID on 03/04/12 at 18:49:44

I have to agree with RidgeRunner, bleeding the brakes is not that hard. I didn't have a long enough piece of hose to run it back to the master cylinder like he suggested, but I had about a 2' section of hose that I used pointing it up letting it fill with fluid while forcing out the bubbles.

So, now I have my new SS brake line installed and bled. When I pulled the caliper, I saw how worn the pads were and was thankful I had already purchased a pair of new pads. Those were TOAST!!! And I don't think they were the original ones either (bike has a little over 8,000 miles)

Thanks for all the help and suggestions  8-)

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