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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Rear tire... /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1321055494 Message started by Serowbot on 11/11/11 at 15:51:33 |
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Title: Rear tire... Post by Serowbot on 11/11/11 at 15:51:33 I just ordered a Shinko 712 for my back tire... I'm so excited I feel like,... ...ahhhh... I just wet myself... :-?... ... anyway,... $66.00 shipped at Ron Ayers... http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/2107/SKU/1200215 http://images.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/300/633039364951993750712Rear.jpg |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by drums1 on 11/11/11 at 16:53:21 Is that like, really on sale? I paid $108 for a Dunlop 404 last winter. |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by Fish on 11/11/11 at 20:28:59 7563647C6220110 wrote:
Shinko is far less expensive than Dunlop. |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by built2last66 on 11/11/11 at 21:09:42 I have a Shinko 777 front tire... I hate it... but it was cheap.. I shoulda got the whitewall.. I'll trade it for a stock front tire :D http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQSg8pb1bWI486Tpcl3XYHYGxvoZ696ue9111v0ftkQMgmLgJWSphggVpdg3g |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by lg_fry on 11/12/11 at 11:15:15 I went with the pirelli mt 66 a couple weeks ago and I think shipped from ron ayers it was a little over 80. great tire so far, but man is it ever a pain to get on the rim when all you have to do it with is two big screwdrivers. The sidewalls are remarkably thicker. So far though the tire's been great in rain, great traction all around. You want something cheaper, get the pirelli. No one's ever said that before lol. |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by bill67 on 11/12/11 at 11:35:05 I put the Pirelli 66 on my suzuki 1500,really like them they give a better ride too.I have them for my S40 will put them on pretty soon. |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by Serowbot on 11/12/11 at 11:44:40 I'll bet those Pirelli's are good... ;)... I've had two sets of Dunlop 404's... and was impressed when they were new,... but for me,.. they seemed to lose something as they aged... Maybe they dried out kinda' fast... not so sticky as they wore down... Hoping the Shinko's have a bit more grip... not expecting them to last quite as long... 404's went about 11k average... From what I've read,... the Shinko's go 8 to 12k, depending... That'll be 8k for me... :-?... |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by built2last66 on 11/12/11 at 12:20:08 How much balancing and stuff do you gotta do with those Pirelli 66? I don't have a bike jack so I have to get it done at the shop, is it worth it? |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by Boofer on 11/12/11 at 12:52:51 You don't need a bike stand or lift to work on your bike. Do you have a scissor jack in your car?. Do you have a friend with a car and jack? Do you have access to concrete blocks? Rope? Wife to shine light in your eyes while you change tire? I am so out of funds because of gas and groceries, I've gone from Metzeler to Pirelli to thinking about Shenko. I figure if I take the rear off myself I can save nearly enough to stay with Pirelli. It's around $100 locally. Sorry Serowbot, but I'm hard on tires. Let us know how it works for you. With prices going up the Metz on the front may be my last Metz. |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by Wake51 on 11/13/11 at 02:34:31 I have to say I noticed a vry appreciable difference when I switched from the Dunlops that came with my bike to Metzler's... My bike REALLY carves now! ....But I also paid nearly $350 for them. (including installation) For this bike I highly recommend the Metzler Marathon's. But everyone's budget is different and I think fresh rubber you can trust is more important than the name stamped on the side. |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by built2last66 on 11/13/11 at 08:02:17 210C0C050611630 wrote:
I don't have any room to prop my bike up and change the tires, plus I've never done it before.. do I need to balance and weight the Pirelli 66? |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by verslagen1 on 11/13/11 at 08:36:42 1st time, prepare for fun. verify direction of the arrow before you take the old tire off. I'd even mark it on the rim. when you go to put it on, lot's of lube, inside and out, rim and tire. align the spot on the tire with the valve stem. and when you get the 1st bead on and the tube in, take a moment and see if it's balanced. Use the axle to support the wheel between two jack stands... two chairs or anything that's nearly level. spin it and see where and how it stops. if just stops and you wheels spin pretty free, then you're done. if it rocks back you got a heavy spot. if it stops with the valve stem north or south, you gotta add weight. But if it's left or right you can try to shift the tire to balance it. trial and error. And finally getting the last bead in, good luck. 1st half is easy, right up to 2/3 done, then it becomes a b!tch. make sure the part you already have in sets in the well, c-clamps do help. put 1 on the rim to prevent the bead from slipping out on you. if you got a couple of big ones then squeeze the tire to keep the bead in the groove. Resist the temptation to pry over the last section of bead as your tool will come down on the tube and pierce it. I pinched the tube my 1st try, ended up taking it to the dealer cause I was done in. |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by Serowbot on 11/13/11 at 08:49:43 You don't have to balance any tire,.. but it's best to balance them... The heavier, and longer lasting the tire, the more you'll gain from balancing... I've been told by a very experienced bike mechanic, that (oddly enough), cheap Chinese tires tend to need little or no weights to balance... maybe because they are lighter, ...and because they wear faster anyway... I chose the Shinko's because they are cheap, grippy, and known to be light,(less unsprung weight)... and I'm only riding about 3k per year, lately... (don't want a tire to last more than 3 years or so,... so that it doesn't dry out)... If you are a heavy/high mile rider,... I think Metzlers are worth the cash, and will probably save money in the long run... Long lasting tires give up a little grip for longevity,.. (harder rubber compound),... and if they suffer damage, you have more investment to lose.. Plus,.. if they stay on the bike for more than 3 or 4 years, they will dry out, lose grip, and crack... ... but some riders would have to change tires every 6 months with cheapy tires... So, there ain't no bad tires,... you just buy the tire for how you ride... JMO,.. 2 cents worth... ;)... |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by lg_fry on 11/14/11 at 08:49:40 Vers, excellent instructions, exactly how it should be done. And as for freshness of rubber vs name on the side, there is a correlation between the two. Consider that Pirelli is #1 in how many high perf, high grip racing tires, all over the world. I put mine on myself, so I know the difference in quality, huge as it is between the pirelli and the IRC stock |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by youzguyz on 11/14/11 at 09:00:05 Hey you Pirelli fans. I still have these laying around: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1316537271 Check the last post by me for the specs on wear and such. Reducing the price. Front: $10 plus shipping Rear: $25 plus shipping As I said before, shipping method is your choice, as you are paying it. (Just been too lazy to put on Craig's List). |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by EJID on 11/14/11 at 09:39:38 2630273A22373A21550 wrote:
Very well put...everyone rides differently and their tire needs must be adjusted accordingly. I put the Shinko 712s on both the front and rear of mine just over two years ago. I am extremely happy with them over the dry-rotted stock tires that were on mine when I got it. I've only put on about 3k miles over that two years and you wouldn't know they weren't new other than the nipples are worn off :o Looking forward to hearing what you think of them since you will put more miles on in the next 6 months in AZ versus the next year for me in ID. (Supposed to snow 5 out of the next 7 days here) |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by Routy on 11/15/11 at 05:36:57 Versl wrote: And finally getting the last bead in, good luck. 1st half is easy, right up to 2/3 done, then it becomes a b!tch. make sure the part you already have in sets in the well, c-clamps do help. put 1 on the rim to prevent the bead from slipping out on you. if you got a couple of big ones then squeeze the tire to keep the bead in the groove. Resist the temptation to pry over the last section of bead as your tool will come down on the tube and pierce it. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Perdy much all true, but,......you failed to mention how you suggest getting the last section of bead on w/o ruining the tube or ........easier yet, ruining the tire bead ? This not for my own info, but for those inexperienced who mite be thinking about changing their own tires. |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by feelinjunky on 11/15/11 at 06:44:34 3422352830252833470 wrote:
Stock 2001 front and rear tires 8k miles Got a nail in the back tire, changed the tube, still runs great. Metz all the way |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by Serowbot on 11/15/11 at 09:11:59 10 year old tires can be dangerous... Tire manufacturers recommend replacement of car tires after 5 years... Bike tires are even more dangerous... This isn't one of those safety cons designed to get you buy more tires, it's a real problem... Many of the SUV rollovers that happen are from tread separations on old tires... Tires get too dry,.. they have reduced traction, don't flex, and can develop tread separation and chunk out... I'd trust a 2 year old bald tire more than 10 year old tire with full tread... Be safe,.. try to buy tires that you can wear out in 3 to 5 years max... I can feel serious loss of traction in my 3 year old Dunlop 404... i got about 11k out of it... |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by Routy on 11/16/11 at 06:18:45 Quote: how you suggest getting the last section of bead on w/o ruining the tube or ........easier yet, ruining the tire bead ? ------------------------------------------------------------------ Ok, I'll give my own advice on it,.......a rubber tire mallot ! I would never attempt to home change a motorcycle tire or any other tire much larger than a wheelbarrow, w/o a rubber mallot. Tire irons are ok to get a bead started, but then is when the rubber mallot takes over,.....to save damaging rims, tire beads, and pinched tubes. |
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Title: Re: Rear tire... Post by ezornes239 on 11/19/11 at 23:41:50 I just ordered one too. Much needed. |
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