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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Advise: Pull motor or not? /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1320849747 Message started by drums1 on 11/09/11 at 06:42:26 |
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Title: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by drums1 on 11/09/11 at 06:42:26 Having neither the knowhow, nor the specialty tools required once I get there, would there be any useful purpose in pulling the motor this winter? Quick history--ran over big rock. Punched hole in bottom of motor. Patched with JB Weld. Held up this summer. Starting to leak again. (constant drip) Makes funny noises inside, and heavy vibration on acceleration. (Never did before hitting rock) So, would it be worth it to go through all that, just to get a better patch job, or, just do the best I can, with motor still on the bike, and continue to ride until it blows? (Which is what I'll probably do anyways) Like I said, I have neither the knowhow, tools, nor money required to do a motor teardown. And, unless fatboy drops a new motor on my porch on December 25, I don't see replacing the motor as an option, either. :-/ All this really sucks after dumping $1200 into it last winter. (New battery, 2 new tires and tubes, forward controls, head gasket, Verslavy, rebuild carb with new mixture screw, 3" handlebar risers, front pads, rear shoes, headlight bulb) |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by splash07 on 11/09/11 at 06:46:32 I am a little OCD about my car and bike so I would say yes pull the hell outta that motor. Where is the hole exactly? you do not need to replace the whole motor just the piece with the hole in it. But, yes, this will require some specialty tools and a lot of time and know how. It can be done and winter is a good time to do it. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by drums1 on 11/09/11 at 07:02:21 The hole is on the right lower side, bottom of motor right where it curves, between two case bolts. Almost straight across from the drainplug. Right on the edge. Cracks running in several directions from the actual hole. It also dented the frame right there, pretty deep--almost flat. There are shops around here that could do the work, but I need both of my arms and legs. Plus, I'd have to locate a used motor with intact parts--I found 1 in Milwaukee. Top 1/2 is missing and they still want $600 for what's left. That's a bit steep just for a right side lower engine case. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by Bubba on 11/09/11 at 07:15:53 It'd be a lot of work but this might do it for ya...shipping is 100 bucks but it's cheaper than the half engine near you... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-SUZUKI-LS650-ls-650-savage-ENGINE-BLOCK-tranny-crank-MOTOR-short-cases-lot-/300610528398?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item45fdc8a48e |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by verslagen1 on 11/09/11 at 07:17:42 $600 for a bottom end? I gotta whole engine for that. Keep looking. I know pinwall has more for more. The leaks would prompt for a better patch. Not much you can do about odd noises except prepare for the worst. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by Arnold on 11/09/11 at 07:19:55 darn, sound like you're almost better in cash to buy an old Savage for parts. Must have been a big rock, what the hell was it doing on the road? |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by drums1 on 11/09/11 at 07:25:56 It was a honeydew melon sized rock in the middle of state highway, in front of a construction site. 45 mph speed limit, came out from under car in front of me--could not avoid hitting it. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by Serowbot on 11/09/11 at 07:38:38 I'd be lookin' for a new engine... How many minutes did it run with the hole?... more than a minute or two, and it's gonna' seize soon anyway... That'd be my guess... it's happened here before... Guy forgot to put oil in after a change, rode a couple miles, then remembered and filled up... Engine seized in a couple weeks... |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by drums1 on 11/09/11 at 08:15:26 I went maybe 2 miles. There was still 1 quart in there when I got home and drained it. Rode bike all summer--no seize. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by Serowbot on 11/09/11 at 08:35:08 2533342C3270410 wrote:
Pretty darn good!... |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by verslagen1 on 11/09/11 at 08:49:42 3422253D2361500 wrote:
1 qt is not empty, if you develop a leak in the oil pressure path, it'll pretty much drain all the oil outta the case. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by Bubba on 11/09/11 at 09:17:13 http://salina.craigslist.org/mcy/2672307268.html http://provo.craigslist.org/mcy/2667510570.html complete bikes... |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/09/11 at 17:31:50 2234332B3577460 wrote:
Sounds like you may have been running a bit close. Also sounds like you coulda got yourself hurt pretty bad, Sorry you boogered up your bike, but you didnt get hurt//& thats a good thing. Why dont you pull your engine & open it up & see what you can do about it before spending $$$ on a replacement? You cant mess it up. Take a shot at it. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by drums1 on 11/10/11 at 04:45:05 Ya, that was the only good thing about it, that I didn't wipe out. Still not sure how I managed that. Not to mention there was a car right behind me. Had I wiped out, he probably would have run me over. As far as pulling motor, from what I saw in Bubba's ebay link, there would be quite a bit of disassembly involved once I got it out. Another gasket set at the very least. And specialty tools that I don't have. And ripping apart things I know nothing about. So, I think I'm gonna do another on-the-bike patch over patch with JB Weld and see how long it lasts next spring. The worst part being that some of the JB Weld patch went over a couple of the lower case bolts. There were some small cracks right up to those bolts. I would be chiseling JB Weld off just to get at them. So, patch over patch, ride till it blows, then probably part it out and live miserably ever after with no bike. :-/ |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by splash07 on 11/10/11 at 05:45:26 Ride it til she blows, then buy another bike that has some horrible problem not associated with the motor and between the two of em you can make one working bike. Then part out all the extra parts to us to recoup some of the expense. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/10/11 at 06:55:18 Ride 'er till she blows. Sounds cool & all, but in practice, maybe not such a great idea.You ride with a finger over the clutch lever? If it "blows" & locks up while youre running thru a sweeper, youll be down in less time than it takes to think "Crap!". YOu suspect the engine has a fatal wound, because of the vibration, right? I think you should have a look inside & see whats going on, If you cant see, you cant see,, but Id sure be having a look.. Tell us more about the engine, how it sounds, howe it feels, rpm related racket,, I wish I had a pic of it before you patched it. I know how much work you put in it,, I sure hate that it got boogered up like that./ I dont follow closely, on a bike or in a car. Ive found a good %age of drivers follow me at a greater distance when I am following the lead car at a greater distance.. IDK why. Ive also found that wne I am coming to a red light & I want to turn right, If I will hold to the left & stay right by the line, the car in front will often do the same, then when I get there, there is room to slip by on the right.. people are amazing. Doesnt work all the time, some people just Have to tailgate & some dont seem aware of anyone else on the road & dont use the rear view, either. If Im being tail;gated, I slow down till Ive got them slowed down, then I speed away to establish distance, then I settle to the right speed. I can deliver that "hint" till they figure it out or they pass me, Dont tailgate & dont allow yourself to be tailgated. Being tailgated is dangerous because you are forced to constantly monitor what theyre doing. Takes away from the attention you need to be paying to whats happening in front. You mita dodged that rock had you been more focused in front & less in the mirrors,. But maybe you were too close,, IDK,m, I wasnt there. You can "run the tape" again & think about it. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by SURAZAL on 11/10/11 at 10:19:43 Well while in the peace coprs a while back ... we had 2 similar situations with a bike ... rock .. crankcase ... big crack ... one was fix using leather adheared to the extremely well cleaned crank case after the engine had been removed tip upside down and completely cleaned a good sized leather patch and a generous amount of epoxy which is all JB weld is with aluminum powder filler to disapate the engine heat ... it held well over a year and that bike got sold in running order .. the 2nd very similar problem we have the local weld shop heliarc an aluminum patch in place with out ever opening up the engine .. put it back to gether and it was still running fine a year later too ... so just some other thoughts as there were no spare parts for the bikes in all of Jamaica at the time .. good luck |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by drums1 on 11/10/11 at 11:38:18 JoG--Bike sounds ok idling. 20,000 miles, Verslavy on OE chain. Once I get going, I start to hear what I think is belt noise, in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Only does it when clutch is engaged, giving it throttle. As soon as I let off gas, or pull in clutch lever, noise stops. Kind of a whirring, metalic gear meshing sound. I vaselined the belt one day and the noise almost went away completely, for 100 miles or so. In 3rd or 4th gear, any hard throttle causes a low end clunking, rapping kind of noise. I do 1st gear up to 15 mph or so, then 2nd gear up to 25 or so, 3rd gear up to about 35, and then into 4th. Once I hit about 40 mph I start to feel a heavy vibration in the footpegs. Seems to mellow out a bit around 50, and I haven't been over 55 since hitting the rock. Also, I still am having the idle kicking up to high rpm all by itself, usually when cold. I have to play with the idle speed screw a lot until it fully warms up. But after a 30-40 mile ride, if I run in the store for 10 minutes and then ride again, it does it again, even warmed up. It's really weird, I think the slide may be sticking or some such thing. What gets me is when it's idling high, the exhaust sounds quieter, and the valves start rapping. Then all by itself, idle drops, exhaust sounds normal, and valves are quiet again. I could go on, but I won't. :o |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/10/11 at 22:55:09 Yea,, sounds like a carb problem,,but the hard noises in 3rd & 4th,, thats not a happy thing, Just make sure youre not upshifting & gunning it when its turning too slow to be happy with it. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by crackmonkey on 11/13/11 at 06:21:45 i would pull it.... cause no matter when the engine blows it will screw up your day. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/13/11 at 06:48:43 Mine used to make a pretty ugly noise when I would shift up too soon & lug it. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by drums1 on 11/13/11 at 18:15:38 Dammit, I been riding it the last few days here, before winter sets in. When the carbs not acting up and it's running right, it still runs good and , for the most part, still sounds pretty much ok. I think I'm gonna do a reinforce job on the JB Weld and see how far she goes next spring. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by BurnPgh on 11/13/11 at 19:50:00 rather than patch it, why not find an outfit that can tig weld aluminum? Weld the chunk back where it ought to be and weld the cracks closed. It'd be just as ugly, and a lot more stable than a JB patch. More expensive though. Try looking for driveline shops. Most drivehsafts are mild steel but there are aluminum ones out there and someone's gotta weld them up. |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by verslagen1 on 11/13/11 at 23:25:09 weld with a propane torch... http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-8-alumiweld-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html |
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Title: Re: Advise: Pull motor or not? Post by drums1 on 11/14/11 at 09:04:19 Well, the thing there is, I already have it patched from last spring. I would have to chisel all the old JB Weld off to go that route. And then probably still pull the motor. Not sure it's worth going that far. |
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