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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Fuel tank and the manual... /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1315091696 Message started by built2last66 on 09/03/11 at 16:14:56 |
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Title: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by built2last66 on 09/03/11 at 16:14:56 Okay.. to change the spark plug the manual says take off the screws to the fuel tank then slide it off.. I think they forgot to mention a few steps.. All I want to do is put in NGK (2202) DPR8EIX-9 Iridium IX Spark Plug and I suddenly realize I have to disconnect a bunch of cables and go into the engine... and the petcock..... this is my first bike... doing this myself could lead to disaster... Unscrew the screws, lift and slide off the tank! It's that easy! ::) |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by EJID on 09/03/11 at 16:25:59 You also have to remove the speedo cable down @ the transmission and if you are pulling the tank completely don't forget to unplug the electronics behind the speedometer and unhook the fuel line and vac line. When putting it back together be careful to make sure you get the rubber nubs on the sides of the tank lined up so the tank doesn't slide around more than before. |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/03/11 at 16:27:33 Unless the petcock hangs up under the frame,, then ya gotta shove the rear of the tank over some to get it to clear,, some even say they have to pull the petcock ( Drain the tank First),, Look into th Spark plug door mod while youre in there. BLOW the dirt & crap out of the recess the plug sits in b4 you pull it. |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by verslagen1 on 09/03/11 at 16:33:24 don't expect it to jump up and say howdydo. have a big flat blade screwdriver handy, sometimes it's a bear to get the connector for the speedo off. 1. unscrew the speedo cable (by the clutch) 2. pull the vac line off the carb. 3. pull the gas line off. 4. remove the seat 5. remove the rear tank bolts and seat support. 6. stand on left side, lift the rear of the tank and pull towards you. the petcock has to clear the frame. 7. once the rear is up, place one hand at the rear and one hand at the front, slide the tank back till a wiring harnass is exposed. 8. pull the connector off. you can set the tank on the frame, lean against it to stabilize it while you're working the connector. 9. set the tank on a clean level surface off to the side where you won't trip over it. |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by built2last66 on 09/03/11 at 16:52:06 Thanks everyone, Verslagan1 you broke it down pretty good... I'm definitely draining the tank and taking it completely off. I hope I don't get stuck.. :D |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by mmosel on 09/03/11 at 16:56:27 I didn't have to drain the tank. I did, however, scratch my frame up a bit with the petc0ck issue. Next time I take it off I plan on wrapping that area with some vinyl or something. Even after removing it three times, I still don't have the magic puzzle mastered. It would be nice to master it completely, but it is tricky! |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by built2last66 on 09/03/11 at 17:11:04 2E2E2C30262F430 wrote:
That's what I'm trying to figure out now, what to use to cover the petcock... my tank is completely full though :D |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/03/11 at 18:47:46 If it scratches it a bit, its not the end O the wurld, ya know,, Shove the tank sideways,, put masking tape on the frame, a few layers thick,, |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by mmosel on 09/03/11 at 18:59:27 Nah, the scratches aren't visible under the tank. No biggie, but if I can prevent more scratching, that's a good thing. Only concern about the deep scratches is the potential for rust. |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by built2last66 on 09/03/11 at 20:33:26 Finished! New iridium sparky is in.. I didn't scratch the frame cause I loosed the petcock... however, I see the mechanics at the Suzuki shop scratched it when they did some carb work ;D For Verslagen1, I followed rule .9 http://i54.tinypic.com/fyij7.jpg |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by Boofer on 09/03/11 at 21:28:51 Not calling you out on this, but if you work with gas in an enclosed space (garage) with a gas water heater or anything that makes a spark, be careful. A cup of gas, when evaporated and ignited, is like two sticks of dynamite, I'm told. I was at a marina once when a nice boat caught fire just after fueling. A beautiful young lady was standing in some water near the shore with the skin peeling away from her legs. She wouldn't come out, because she hurt so bad if she wasn't immersed in that dirty water. Be careful, boys and girls. |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by Routy on 09/04/11 at 09:30:20 Quote: Unscrew the screws, lift and slide off the tank! It's that easy! ------------------------------------------------------------------------ W/ no question mark, I took this to mean that you had already done it, and that it really was that easy,.......so then I was going to accuse you of having bad hulustinations ! Glad it was cleared up :o |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by built2last66 on 09/04/11 at 09:42:43 56594358444251535B5542300 wrote:
I was being sarcastic, but I actually replaced the spark plug last night.. I wasn't sure what all I needed to disconnect and what not.. you guys all cleared it up and I found that just loosening the petcock so that its hanging pretty loose (after you've completely drained the tank) makes it a smooth remove, with no scratches. I have a 2005 so I'm not sure about other year models. |
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Title: Re: Fuel tank and the manual... Post by Digger on 06/26/12 at 21:40:09 While I realize that there are differences from bike to bike, I've never had to remove the tank from mine (see signature) to get to the spark plug.....even when I still had the OEM petcock on there. Here's what I do: 1. Remove the seat. 2. Remove the two bolts from the rear of the fuel tank. 3. Remove all lines (fuel and vacuum (if you still have one)) from the petcock. 4. Move the fuel tank back a bit, then prop up the rear of the tank with a short section of 4" X 4". This will keep the tank out of your way. 5. Remove the left chrome beauty cover. 6. Slap a wobble adapter on your 3/8" drive ratchet. Pop an 18mm deep-well socket on the adapter and you've now got access to the spark plug. Note that I do not have to disconnect the speedo cable or the electrical connector. IHTH! |
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