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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Wheel Bearing /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1314047259 Message started by mscepu101 on 08/22/11 at 14:07:39 |
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Title: Wheel Bearing Post by mscepu101 on 08/22/11 at 14:07:39 I have some simple questions: How do you know when a wheel bearing is approaching its service life? How difficult are they to replace? Are they costly? The reason I ask is because I am starting hear a "whirring" noise from the front of my savage and I suspect it is a bearing. The bike is stable during 50+mph but I have notice a bit wiggle on evasive manuevers. |
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Title: Re: Wheel Bearing Post by verslagen1 on 08/22/11 at 14:15:06 raise the front end and give it a spin. whirrs and grinding not normal. looseness not normal. A whirr maybe needing grease. |
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Title: Re: Wheel Bearing Post by Serowbot on 08/22/11 at 14:25:45 Front brake pads make a scrape/whir noise... they are always in light contact with the rotor... This is normal... raise the front end and give it a spin. like Versy says... ... but you might want to pull the caliper first... (just two bolts)... Then listen for noise... Bearings are $5 or $10 bucks... pay more, and get Japanese or German ones, not from China, India, Malaysia, etc... they're worth the extra... |
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Title: Re: Wheel Bearing Post by mscepu101 on 08/22/11 at 16:01:10 Not to easy to get the front end up by myself! But I did and gave it a spin. It made a whirr only during coast down and only in one location. I suspect warped rotor but I have never detected pulsation when I brake. I did not have time to pull the caliper (the mosquitos chased me away). If I decide to replace the bearing is it difficult? |
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Title: Re: Wheel Bearing Post by Kaishaku on 08/22/11 at 18:18:09 It's straightforward. I have a bearing puller, which is a slide hammer with an expanding collet, but a lot of people just use a hammer and a long punch for removal. For re-installation, use a socket of approximately the same size as the bearing and make sure to apply force only to the outside race of the bearings. |
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Title: Re: Wheel Bearing Post by Boofer on 08/22/11 at 18:34:01 I don't remember ever having to replace a motorcycle bearing, but they do eventually wear out. A good way to install bearings is to warm up the wheel and put the bearing itself in a freezer for about 15 minutes. On cars they sometimes drop in with no effort and then expand to fit perfectly. I'm just glad we don't have to warm the bearing and put the wheel in the freezer. ;) And I'm going back to the wink. I was using so many at a time that one of the guys on here took out a restraining order that said something about sexual harrassment. ;D ;D ;) |
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Title: Re: Wheel Bearing Post by dasch on 08/23/11 at 02:27:03 Hehehe... back to the topic... without a bearing puller it can get complicated sometimes, depending on the wheel, and that spacer inside. Here's my trick: Tack weld a nut or thick washer to the inner race, just to close the hole as much as you can. Turn the wheel, run a thick steel rod through the bearing on other side until it touches the welded nut. Hammer out. Turn wheel, aim other bearing inner race with steel rod, hammer out. There's another effective way, no welding needed, but it involves some very controlled hammering (ninja-like control) with sharp chisel. I'm not going to even go there. For install, freezing the bearing helps. You can use the old bearing to hammer new one in. Align race to race and slowly tap around. If it looks off or angled - STOP! Get it out gently and start again. (yeah, good luck with that). Once it's in about halfway, you can press it in to speed up. |
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Title: Re: Wheel Bearing Post by Routy on 08/23/11 at 07:54:59 Agreed, if you can eliminate all brake brake drag,.... then spin the wheel, even the slightest defective bearing will be quite noisy (growl) A whirring or purring....even w/ grease in it, will run near forever yet. |
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Title: Re: Wheel Bearing Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/23/11 at 08:38:03 You might lay hands on a replacement bearing & just feel of it, see how stiff it is to spin, you dont have to buy one, go to a bearing supply house & look at a few bearings, get familiar with how they feel when new,, just be nice, maybe buy something,, I get Kroil & a few other shop supplies at the local bearing supply house,, they dont seem too irritated when I take up their time on little thiings that they cant make any $$ on. |
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Title: Re: Wheel Bearing Post by Routy on 08/23/11 at 11:17:51 2630273A22373A21550 wrote:
I don't know about motorcycle wheel bearings, but they are probably are just a bearing of specified size,....anyway, in other bearing from auto supplies, china ..indones bearings are very common anymore, many times all that is available, and are concidered to be of good quality. I know that last week I bought a tapered roller brg for my ATV trailer. Napa had SKF, but didn't have the outside race in stock....total price $16. I'd been down this china usa road before, and was glad they didn't have it,.....knowing it would be very pricey I then went to carquest, they had china only, and a matched set in stock for $6.95 He told me he didn't know any auto supply carried usa brgs anymore. Anyway, unlike yrs ago, I don't know that US brgs are better now. I do know that if any of them runs dry, or sets a month or 3 w/ water in them, all are toast. |
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Title: Re: Wheel Bearing Post by thumperclone on 08/24/11 at 07:35:35 side to side "play" in the wheel indicates a worn bearing |
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