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Message started by drulg on 07/06/11 at 11:44:09

Title: CABLES AND SHOCK QUESTION
Post by drulg on 07/06/11 at 11:44:09

I have a 1996 LS650 right now I ahve a 6" risers with straight drag bars, but I want to go to 12" apes, does anybody have any recomendations on where or what to do with the cables and brake line, I know that the brake line will be easier to find, but is there any company making extended cables for the savage? once I go to apes I'll switch to the stock risers, also does anybody knows what size are the rear shocks? and who makes a shorter shock?

Title: Re: CABLES AND SHOCK QUESTION
Post by MotoBuddha on 07/06/11 at 12:45:42

If you need longer or shorter cables of any kind, you can have them made by Motion Pro or Barnett.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/custom/

http://www.barnettclutches.com/products/cables.aspx

I haven't checked out what Barnett offers, but I know you can send Motion Pro your old cables as reference for the new ones, so you end up with all the right ends, sleeves, bends and such. I would guess Barnett does the same.

Don't forget your throttle cable. And I don't know how much higher you can go with the bars before wiring becomes an issue.

As for shocks, take the weight off the rear end and measure eyelet to eyelet. That's your length. You can get shorter shocks from several places, like Progressive. But I'm a big believer in getting shocks that are custom set up with the correct springs for the weight of you and the bike. That's doubly true with short shocks, which have less travel. If the springs are too weak, you'll bottom out all the time.

Custom ordered shocks cost more than generic one-size-doesn't-fit-all shocks. Sometimes outrageously more. But you might ask Progressive if they offer custom matched spring rates and how much it would cost. If they can't help you, I've been very happy with YSS shocks. Their Bravo and Eco Line models are fairly reasonable

http://www.yssusa.com/series-bravo.html

Title: Re: CABLES AND SHOCK QUESTION
Post by drulg on 07/06/11 at 13:45:38


75574C577A4D5C5C5059380 wrote:
If you need longer or shorter cables of any kind, you can have them made by Motion Pro or Barnett.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/custom/

http://www.barnettclutches.com/products/cables.aspx

I haven't checked out what Barnett offers, but I know you can send Motion Pro your old cables as reference for the new ones, so you end up with all the right ends, sleeves, bends and such. I would guess Barnett does the same.

Don't forget your throttle cable. And I don't know how much higher you can go with the bars before wiring becomes an issue.

As for shocks, take the weight off the rear end and measure eyelet to eyelet. That's your length. You can get shorter shocks from several places, like Progressive. But I'm a big believer in getting shocks that are custom set up with the correct springs for the weight of you and the bike. That's doubly true with short shocks, which have less travel. If the springs are too weak, you'll bottom out all the time.

Custom ordered shocks cost more than generic one-size-doesn't-fit-all shocks. Sometimes outrageously more. But you might ask Progressive if they offer custom matched spring rates and how much it would cost. If they can't help you, I've been very happy with YSS shocks. Their Bravo and Eco Line models are fairly reasonable

http://www.yssusa.com/series-bravo.html



Thanks, i apreciate that, I didn't think about the wiring, I hope is not an issue, if I go for 10" apes will the wiring and stock cables fit?

Title: Re: CABLES AND SHOCK QUESTION
Post by MotoBuddha on 07/06/11 at 14:15:30

Unbolt the bars you have and see how far you can lift them with the wheel turned full left and right.

Title: Re: CABLES AND SHOCK QUESTION
Post by drums1 on 07/07/11 at 04:15:12

I have the OE 6" buckhorns on 3" risers. All cables and wiring is stretched to the limit. 10" apes might be too much, without getting everything replaced with longer.

Title: Re: CABLES AND SHOCK QUESTION
Post by MagickNinja on 07/07/11 at 12:00:12


5442455C57300 wrote:
[quote author=75574C577A4D5C5C5059380 link=1309977849/0#1 date=1309981542]If you need longer or shorter cables of any kind, you can have them made by Motion Pro or Barnett.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/custom/

http://www.barnettclutches.com/products/cables.aspx

I haven't checked out what Barnett offers, but I know you can send Motion Pro your old cables as reference for the new ones, so you end up with all the right ends, sleeves, bends and such. I would guess Barnett does the same.

Don't forget your throttle cable. And I don't know how much higher you can go with the bars before wiring becomes an issue.

As for shocks, take the weight off the rear end and measure eyelet to eyelet. That's your length. You can get shorter shocks from several places, like Progressive. But I'm a big believer in getting shocks that are custom set up with the correct springs for the weight of you and the bike. That's doubly true with short shocks, which have less travel. If the springs are too weak, you'll bottom out all the time.

Custom ordered shocks cost more than generic one-size-doesn't-fit-all shocks. Sometimes outrageously more. But you might ask Progressive if they offer custom matched spring rates and how much it would cost. If they can't help you, I've been very happy with YSS shocks. Their Bravo and Eco Line models are fairly reasonable

http://www.yssusa.com/series-bravo.html



Thanks, i apreciate that, I didn't think about the wiring, I hope is not an issue, if I go for 10" apes will the wiring and stock cables fit?[/quote]

I'm actually doing kinda the same thing right now. I actually wanted your drag bars and risers but finding them is rough. OEM risers are ridiculous expensive ($94 each) and I don't know the size/rise/sweep to look for aftermarket so I had to start thinking about other options.

Apes seemed easy since they look cool and don't need risers. At the local dealership they have a 2011 Savage with the drags and risers. I sat on it to compare to my buckhorns and it felt very comfortable but the sales rep couldn't tell me any dimensions nor did they carry the parts.

I have the stock buckhorns. All my cables have plenty room. I've been told by numerous people here that 10" apes will fit with stock cables but you'll have to reroute them. But as for the cable length for the drag bars, I don't know.

As for the shocks, in the TOC there is a write-up on how to modify and lower your stock shocks. I've been down this road too, but the amount you can come down isn't much. In the end I took the shocks off completely and turned my Savage rigid so I could have the stance and feel I wanted. If you want to know more, read the "Going Rigid" thread. I can answer any questions you might have.

Title: Re: CABLES AND SHOCK QUESTION
Post by CalisOsin on 07/07/11 at 12:07:38

Magick if you like the drag bar look but want the a little higher up, you might check these out...

http://www.biltwellinc.com/bars.php

I love the Keystones.

Title: Re: CABLES AND SHOCK QUESTION
Post by MagickNinja on 07/07/11 at 13:23:27


0F2D20253F033F25224C0 wrote:
Magick if you like the drag bar look but want the a little higher up, you might check these out...

http://www.biltwellinc.com/bars.php

I love the Keystones.


Wow those Keystones are sweet. Like the Frisco too! Thanks for the link!

Title: Re: CABLES AND SHOCK QUESTION
Post by WD on 07/07/11 at 15:33:36

If you run the cables OVER the tank you can go 13.5" rise with stock cables, but it will eat the tank paint... if you care about stock paint (I didn't, mine changes shades every couple years).

Brake hose is a pain in the butt.  Easy to find, hard to get bled out.

I run 15" rise. HD and Honda cables, off the rack Motion Pro. I worked at a full line shop and played mix and match until I found stuff that worked.

Shorter shocks? Why bother, you can make it a rigid for less than $100 using muscle car lift shackles, 9/16" drill bit and some cutting oil. My stock shocks are on my wife's 800 Intruder, gave her bike a good 4" drop. Intruder shocks are on my Savage, got tired of dragging my full rear fender on any bump bigger than a BB. And every time it dragged a speed bump it broke the rear exhaust hanger bolt (VN800A reflector bracket bolted to fender, bolt through spacer into tail pipe tip).

Whatever bar you decide on, buy NON-dimpled. Dimpled bars are not actually round...

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