SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl
General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Savage Bobber Project
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1309384428

Message started by Frederick on 06/29/11 at 14:53:48

Title: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 06/29/11 at 14:53:48

Hi there guys,

I briefly introduced myself in the introduction topic. I will add a few other details here!

My name is Frederick (or Fred), I am 21 years old and I live in The Netherlands (yes, Europe) - I hope I'm welcome!

I have a great passion for mopeds, which is also what I do for work (part-time really, next to studying and school etc). I own a webshop: www.moparts-webshop.com

I also build custom mopeds/bikes with which I go to custom show. I've often won prizes at these shows and I've even been invited (twice) to the biggest motorbike fair in Europe, INTERMOT.

I will be picking up a '96 Suzuki Savage tomorrow. My plan is to customize it to my style and taste. I very much like the looks of bobbers. However, on another motorbike forum that I am active on there are endless discussions on what qualifies to be a bobber and why some bikes aren't bobbers but choppers etc.

I am sure some of you may share the same thoughts here, and I may not be building a "true" bobber in the end, but for the ease of everything I just called it a bobber project.

This is basically the bike (below). I am paying 450 euros for it. It hasn't run in five years.
It is already modded to some extent (longer front fork, aftermarket exhaust, bits and pieces taken off).
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-3MH3BGVB.jpg

What are my plans?
As much of a cliche as it may be, I will definitely be trying to make it into an old school bobber/bike with some modern touches. The following are my plans:

Wheels, rims, spokes, tires
I will be powdercoating the rims high gloss red with a pearl flake accent in the clear coat.

I will either be chroming the stock spokes or using (thicker) stainless steel fully polished spokes (which should have an even better finish than chrome). In regards to the big spokes (I am not talking big big spokes, just a little thicker than stock), I will need to drill out the hubs and fittings in the rim to place the thicker spokes. Does anybody have any experience with fitting thicker spokes on stock wheels?

I will be polishing the hubs. However, as this is rather difficult to do, I may have this done by a machine/polish shop. Just to compare, I will be paying 30 euros a hub to have them polished so nicely that they will look like chrome (I've seen their work). Does this sound like a fair price? Another option would be to have the hubs powdercoated (either the same red + pearly flaked clear coat combination as the rims themselves, or high gloss black + pearly flaked clear coat).

Furthermore, I will be using whitewall tires.
- Maxxis 100/90-19
- Maxxis 140/90-15
If anyone has any other suggestions for (better) tires, feel free to let me know!

Frame
I will most likely leave the frame rather stock looking. It is already a hard-tail frame, in the sense that it had the shocks removed and stiff brackets fitted. I don't think I want to make it a weld-on hard-tail frame as I kind of like the option of being able to go back to shocks.

Seat
I will be using an already existing seat pan with a custom spring. I will try to build the same concept that I've already used on one of my other projects/builds. That would be the following:

http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-C7GVHMN6.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-PLZIPJHL.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-SHPIERKH.jpg

This is a seat pan that comes off of one of the mopeds that I build and sell parts for in my shop. The "spring", which, let's face it, is really more a shock absorber, comes off a mountain bike (it's the shock that is fitted in between the frame of a MTB).

This should be a rather rigid seat - I will have to see how this works out. I will weld a mount/bracket undear the seat pan and one to the frame.

Exhaust
I have both a stock exhaust and the exhaust in the picture. I believe this is stainless steel. However, I do not have a spool gun to weld stainless steel. I may want to custom build my own exhaust. Which tubing can I best use to do this?

I really like the look of the old school exhaust that are found on some choppers/bobbers, where the tip rises in near the end of the rame. Examples:

http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-SFWBM3RU.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-Y46LZFNH.jpg

Front fork
I will most likely be leaving the front fork as it is. It is already a longer front fork than stock. I may polish the legs and triple trees, I may also have these powdercoated (black + pearly flaked clear coat - however, I am not sure how this will look).

Handlebars
Ape Hangers, most likely. I may even be using an already existing pair of bicycle handlebars meant for custom bicycles. These are 13" or 14" handlebars.

http://www.aztlanbicycle.com/images/products/lowrider-steering-wheel-handle-bars/HANDLE_FLAT_TWISTED_GOLD_33332.jpg

Engine wise
Obviously, after not having been running for five consecutive years, I will have to give the engine a thorough check. What are things to look out for?

I will surely be cleaning the carb, changing the oil etc.

I may want to spray paint the cylinder black and the cylinder head gold (heat resistant) to match the gold Ape Hangers - that is, if I go through with blending in gold! Nothing is sure yet...

Furthermore, one thing I am really keen on is the drive belt to chain driven conversion. I completely understand the concept and what has to be done, I even thought about doing it before I saw the topic about it, but I am not completely certain of which sprockets to use! By this I mean, which existing Suzuki sprockets do I need? I've so far understood to get a rear sprocket with:
- 6 holes
- 100mm pitch from opposite holes
- a custom spacer
- a 520 to 530 drive chain

If anyone has any tips, tricks or ideas, feel free to share!

More pics will follow tomorrow  :).

FRED

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by bluesavage218 on 06/29/11 at 15:03:50

Fred Welcome!!! Sounds like an awesome project!

As far as the engine goes, I would start with the most obvious easiest solutions first i.e. battery and spark plug for starters.

Love your ideas though! Keep us posted!

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 06/29/11 at 15:06:15


7E7B6766637C7D60140 wrote:
Fred Welcome!!! Sounds like an awesome project!

As far as the engine goes, I would start with the most obvious easiest solutions first i.e. battery and spark plug for starters.

Love your ideas though! Keep us posted!


Thanks! I hope my vision turns into reality.

Indeed, I will be replacing the sparkplug, gas, oil and battery to see whether it sparks and eventually fires up!

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by bluesavage218 on 06/29/11 at 15:08:41

Top Dead Center check might be an easy fix as well

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 06/29/11 at 15:13:27


5E5B4746435C5D40340 wrote:
Top Dead Center check might be an easy fix as well


Feel free to specify what you mean.. what do you mean by this check exactly?

Also, would the valves be off after 5 years of not running?

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/29/11 at 15:20:52

Forks look stock to me, valves shouldnt have changed just sitting,,
If you want power, talk to Lancer,
Difference between bobber & chopper,, bobbers have been cleaned up, fenders Bobbed Off & anything that can be done away with to lighten it up, done away with. Choppers have been modified in the front, made longer,

I wouldnt worry about timing unless the thing has high mileage,, How many miles on it?

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by bluesavage218 on 06/29/11 at 15:26:44


764255544A4A4A300 wrote:
[quote author=5E5B4746435C5D40340 link=1309384428/0#3 date=1309385321]Top Dead Center check might be an easy fix as well


Feel free to specify what you mean.. what do you mean by this check exactly?

Also, would the valves be off after 5 years of not running?[/quote]

Missed the sitting part... Nevermind, thought maybe it wasn't running becasue someone had messed with the engine.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 06/30/11 at 01:30:29


657A7C7B6661506050687A763D0F0 wrote:
Forks look stock to me, valves shouldnt have changed just sitting,,
If you want power, talk to Lancer,
Difference between bobber & chopper,, bobbers have been cleaned up, fenders Bobbed Off & anything that can be done away with to lighten it up, done away with. Choppers have been modified in the front, made longer,

I wouldnt worry about timing unless the thing has high mileage,, How many miles on it?


Great. Will talk to Lancer once I need to figure stuff out regarding power.

I also thought the forks were stock. However, the owner specifically mentioned they were aftermarket forks that were longer than the stock ones. We'll see!

I'm not really sure what the mileage is. The guy who advertised it wanted to sell six bikes in total, all in one go. But I asked whether I could buy only the Savage. I'm hoping it doesn't have a high mileage. It has only been driven as of 1996 till 2005 or 2006, seeing that it has been sitting still for the past 5 years. So I'm hoping mileage is low :).

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by dasch on 06/30/11 at 02:21:48

Fred welcome!! 30EUR for a good aluminium polishing job sounds very affordable. I would go for that versus powdercoated hubs.
Rims - yeah, powdercoat them red.
About thicker spokes - buchannan's shop in USA seems to be the place to go for advice or spokes themselves.
http://www.buchananspokes.net/

I would imagine there is a way to get a mm or 2mm thicker spoke, with standard thread on top. I saw a spoke set once for a virago I think that looked exactly like that. 6mm spoke with 4mm thread part. Personally, spokes should be chrome.

Enjoy your project!

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/30/11 at 02:27:27

Sorry if I got your hopes up too far,, High Mileage on the cam chain is 12 to 15 thousand. Id have a look at it n there if its in that range,, mite be just fine, but not lookin can have fatal consequences for the engine.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 06/30/11 at 03:36:59


424755454E260 wrote:
Fred welcome!! 30EUR for a good aluminium polishing job sounds very affordable. I would go for that versus powdercoated hubs.
Rims - yeah, powdercoat them red.
About thicker spokes - buchannan's shop in USA seems to be the place to go for advice or spokes themselves.
http://www.buchananspokes.net/

I would imagine there is a way to get a mm or 2mm thicker spoke, with standard thread on top. I saw a spoke set once for a virago I think that looked exactly like that. 6mm spoke with 4mm thread part. Personally, spokes should be chrome.

Enjoy your project!


I agree, spokes should be chrome. But as I mentioned, the stainless steel ones the wheels shop I talked to has are polished stainless steel, which is practically chrome. However, thicker gauge stainless steel spokes (7 gauge/4.5mm) cost between 60 and 90 euros (ouch!).

What is the stock thickness/diameter of the spokes on a Savage?


445B5D5A4740714171495B571C2E0 wrote:
Sorry if I got your hopes up too far,, High Mileage on the cam chain is 12 to 15 thousand. Id have a look at it n there if its in that range,, mite be just fine, but not lookin can have fatal consequences for the engine.


I will make sure to check the mileage. Is the cam chain easy to replace?

I have a small (machine) shop myself, with plenty of tools - and what I don't have available here I can get somewhere else.

How about a complete engine rebuild? Has anyone on here done one (I mean pretty much everything; bearings, seals, gaskets, etc).

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by dasch on 06/30/11 at 03:54:33

Don't have the bike here now. If I guessed - 4mm. Or 3mm...hmmm... if I remember correctly, the threaded part is WIDER than the rest of the spoke. However, man... for 60EUR you can barely get a decent lunch with girlfriend in, say Amsterdam, right? Put down a few beers each - there goes 90EUR. And these spokes will be there forever.  ;) I say buy it, mount it and you will like it!

NOTE: Can 4.5mm go through holes in the hub?? You need some slack between hub and spoke, so you can manipulate that 90degree bend and all. Or open up holes by 0.5mm...

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/01/11 at 11:34:50


4540524249210 wrote:
Don't have the bike here now. If I guessed - 4mm. Or 3mm...hmmm... if I remember correctly, the threaded part is WIDER than the rest of the spoke. However, man... for 60EUR you can barely get a decent lunch with girlfriend in, say Amsterdam, right? Put down a few beers each - there goes 90EUR. And these spokes will be there forever.  ;) I say buy it, mount it and you will like it!

NOTE: Can 4.5mm go through holes in the hub?? You need some slack between hub and spoke, so you can manipulate that 90degree bend and all. Or open up holes by 0.5mm...


Yeah, I know I will have to keep in mind the bend-angle for the spokes. I will measure my spokes in a bit, they looked more like 3 to 4mm - If I can fit 6mm spokes, I will be one happy man!

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/01/11 at 11:39:04

I picked up the bike yesterday, I bought it for 400,- euros instead of 450,- euros. It has 13000 miles on the meter, and according to the previous owner the speedometer worked - so if those are real miles, that would be great (right?).

I also finally got the bike running today! It needed a bit of TLC.

- New battery
- New oil filter
- New oil
- New sparkplug

At first it didn't want to fire up with the new battery, gas and oil. I then exchanged the sparkplug, but before I fitted the new sparkplug, I sprayed gas/petrol into the combustion chamber. It then started up and it starts up ever since.

I guess it didn't want to suck through any petrol through the carb - now it does.

I also sandblasted the top of the carb (obviously after taking it apart) with glass bead. This really turned out great, I'm sure some of you have done this too so you know how the results are!

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/01/11 at 11:47:46

Better look at the cam chain tensioner,, its time.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by EJID on 07/01/11 at 12:10:34


122631302E2E2E540 wrote:
I picked up the bike yesterday, I bought it for 400,- euros instead of 450,- euros. It has 13000 miles on the meter, and according to the previous owner the speedometer worked - so if those are real miles, that would be great (right?).

I also finally got the bike running today! It needed a bit of TLC.

- New battery
- New oil filter
- New oil
- New sparkplug

At first it didn't want to fire up with the new battery, gas and oil. I then exchanged the sparkplug, but before I fitted the new sparkplug, I sprayed gas/petrol into the combustion chamber. It then started up and it starts up ever since.

I guess it didn't want to suck through any petrol through the carb - now it does.

I also sandblasted the top of the carb (obviously after taking it apart) with glass bead. This really turned out great, I'm sure some of you have done this too so you know how the results are!


If thats all it took, you're in better luck than alot of newbs. Looking forward to what you're going to do with this one  8-)

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/02/11 at 09:00:10

Indeed, I was in some luck that everything ran just fine. Still have to check the cam chain. This has to be about 18mm out, correct?

Another question for the guys on here who also turned their Savages into bobbers/choppers; where do you guys tuck away all the wiring and electronic elements.

Furthermore, I want to move my batter from its current position. I will be running a K&N style filter (pointing either to the back or to the right/left side) but my batter is in the way.

Must the battery always be kept sitting straight up? Or can I tilt it backward a bit (about 30 degree angle)? If I can place it at a 30 degree angle (sitting backwards in its original position) then I have more space for my custom air filter, plus it will look nicer.

Fred

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/02/11 at 12:15:52

This is how the bike is standing in my garage at the moment:

http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-RIHKLOLZ.jpg

I have taken out the rear wheel, taken off the seat, air filter, battery box etc.

I have the following idea in regards to the battery, but I am more than sure it can't be done. As mentioned in my post above, I want to position my battery at an angle facing backward so that I have more space near and around my carb.

I want to go from this...
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-RIN3TZ6Q.jpg

to this position...
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-EENPF8BI.jpg

Would this work, or must the battery be at a perpendicular position at all times?

Furthermore, I gave my Mikuni carb. a good clean up. I recently purchased a big sandblaster (on legs) which has been a great buy so far! I, obviously, used glass bead to blast the carb.

From:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-FUFQUZDO.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-GU4PUW7Y.jpg

To:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-HJ6BPFHI.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-LSK4FHXC.jpg

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/02/11 at 12:23:42

Fred,, IDK that you cant tilt it 30*, but you can get a sealed gel mat type that you can get away with that on,


I hope you cleaned all the stuff outta all the cracks & crevasses

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/02/11 at 12:25:02


514E484F52556454645C4E42093B0 wrote:
Fred,, IDK that you cant tilt it 30*, but you can get a sealed gel mat type that you can get away with that on,


I just looked into a few gel batteries, but didn't find any in 14 Ah.

Do I necessarily need 14 Ah? Or can I get away with 12 Ah?

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by verslagen1 on 07/02/11 at 13:14:44

Look up 'bigcrank' it's an agm battery.  I think their website says you mount them anyway you want.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by ROB CYCLE on 07/02/11 at 14:39:41


073324253B3B3B410 wrote:
Indeed, I was in some luck that everything ran just fine. Still have to check the cam chain. This has to be about 18mm out, correct?

Another question for the guys on here who also turned their Savages into bobbers/choppers; where do you guys tuck away all the wiring and electronic elements.

Furthermore, I want to move my batter from its current position. I will be running a K&N style filter (pointing either to the back or to the right/left side) but my batter is in the way.

Must the battery always be kept sitting straight up? Or can I tilt it backward a bit (about 30 degree angle)? If I can place it at a 30 degree angle (sitting backwards in its original position) then I have more space for my custom air filter, plus it will look nicer.

Fred

I KEPT MY AIR BOX AND PUT ALL WIRING IN IT .OR YOU CAN FAB A SEAT PAN AND TUCK IT UNDER IT LIKE BCB

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/02/11 at 14:43:38


2C313C2E373B2C3D3B5E0 wrote:
[quote author=073324253B3B3B410 link=1309384428/15#16 date=1309622410]Indeed, I was in some luck that everything ran just fine. Still have to check the cam chain. This has to be about 18mm out, correct?

Another question for the guys on here who also turned their Savages into bobbers/choppers; where do you guys tuck away all the wiring and electronic elements.

Furthermore, I want to move my batter from its current position. I will be running a K&N style filter (pointing either to the back or to the right/left side) but my batter is in the way.

Must the battery always be kept sitting straight up? Or can I tilt it backward a bit (about 30 degree angle)? If I can place it at a 30 degree angle (sitting backwards in its original position) then I have more space for my custom air filter, plus it will look nicer.

Fred

I KEPT MY AIR BOX AND PUT ALL WIRING IN IT[/quote]

Do you happen to have a picture of this? I don't think I can fit a K&N filter + my stock airbox and my batter at the same time :(.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by ROB CYCLE on 07/02/11 at 15:47:21

i do not have a k&n filter but one i got off ebay .iwill try to show you pic

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/02/11 at 16:12:31


4954594B525E49585E3B0 wrote:
i do not have a k&n filter but one i got off ebay .iwill try to show you pic


Thanks in advance. I amy not even be running the K&N filter, but I want the space near my carb. to run a custom filter system.

Also, I really want the area of the stock filter to be free. I may even think of moving the batter to the rear - if not I want to put it somewhere else. But where?

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/03/11 at 12:02:55

Alright guys, time for another small udpate.

Today I did the following:

- chopped the rear end of the frame
- cut parts of the side of the rear fender
- weld shut the excess holes in the fender
- weld struts to the rear tubing of the frame + top part
- started on the seat pan (welding shut some holes)

The rear of the frame.

This is how it first was:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-I73WZ8DJ.jpg

I first chopped it, then welded the rear and top part with a strap of metal (2mm thick).
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-XEDKUVML.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-W4QPODOM.jpg

The rear fender

This was probably the most work. I didn't expect this to take so long, but some parts of the rear fender were 4 to 5mm thick.

During the cut:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-U48WLJMY.jpg

This is after I cut both sides off and cleaned up the sides a bit. As you can see there are still some holes for the old mounts.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-FKFXDOGO.jpg

I welded those holes up:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-PNHIY38I.jpg

And the hole is gone.. :) :
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-T7YXTJVR.jpg

Looks neat in my opinion, should give my tire a better look (seeing that it is a whitewall tire I really wanted to show off the entire tire).
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-HTRJ3R4I.jpg

http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-PQ3W7RET.jpg

I lay the seat pan over the rear of the frame, still have to decide on positioning and obviously I still need to weld brackets for the single shock/suspension into place.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-PUI6DMBG.jpg

That was it for now. Will order my tires tonight + some other parts.

Fred

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Smokestack on 07/03/11 at 18:25:41

This is how I solved the whole Airbox/Filter - Battery - Electrical thing....

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j452/Smokestack75/SAM_0190.jpg

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/03/11 at 22:23:11


67595B5F51474055575F340 wrote:
This is how I solved the whole Airbox/Filter - Battery - Electrical thing....

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j452/Smokestack75/SAM_0190.jpg


That looks nice. Did you bolt all the components in there too? Do you happen to have pictures from the other sides?

Fred

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Gyrobob on 07/04/11 at 06:10:30

Frederick stated: I have the following idea in regards to the battery, but I am more than sure it can't be done. As mentioned in my post above, I want to position my battery at an angle facing backward so that I have more space near and around my carb.

Would this work, or must the battery be at a perpendicular position at all times?

Yes, no,.. you can't tilt a lead-acid battery like that.  Use a lithium ion battery.  http://www.tekbattery.com/Batteries/compare.jpg  and/or  http://www.shoraipower.com/

For this bike all you'd need is one about the size of two packs of cigarattes, and it can be mounted in ANY position you want. Kinda' pricey, though.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by SoE on 07/04/11 at 06:34:57

Gotta link to one of those batteries?

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/04/11 at 08:07:01

Well I've chosen an AGM battery; it's 12 Volts and 14 Ah - so equal.

It's a Victron 12 Volt 14 Ah battery.

http://www.webkey7.nl/vdlinden/images2/Stroom/Accus/agm-80.jpg

Only 37.00 euros - good dimensions too.

---

Furthermore, I will be creating a sead panel which I will weld to the frame (where the original seat was). Under this panel I will bolt all the electrical components etc. I will try to tuck away the wires too.

Fred

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Gyrobob on 07/04/11 at 08:16:02


6C584F4E5050502A0 wrote:
Well I've chosen an AGM battery; it's 12 Volts and 14 Ah - so equal.

It's a Victron 12 Volt 14 Ah battery.

http://www.webkey7.nl/vdlinden/images2/Stroom/Accus/agm-80.jpg
Fred


Good for you.  It's a lot larger and heavier than a Li-ion battery, though.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/04/11 at 08:17:42


5E606B767B767B190 wrote:
[quote author=6C584F4E5050502A0 link=1309384428/30#30 date=1309792021]Well I've chosen an AGM battery; it's 12 Volts and 14 Ah - so equal.

It's a Victron 12 Volt 14 Ah battery.

http://www.webkey7.nl/vdlinden/images2/Stroom/Accus/agm-80.jpg
Fred


Good for you.  It's a lot larger and heavier than a Li-ion battery, though.[/quote]

I'm sure it is, but surely not that much heavier than the stock one I have now?

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Gyrobob on 07/04/11 at 08:31:45


427661607E7E7E040 wrote:
[quote author=5E606B767B767B190 link=1309384428/30#31 date=1309792562][quote author=6C584F4E5050502A0 link=1309384428/30#30 date=1309792021]Well I've chosen an AGM battery; it's 12 Volts and 14 Ah - so equal.

It's a Victron 12 Volt 14 Ah battery.

http://www.webkey7.nl/vdlinden/images2/Stroom/Accus/agm-80.jpg
Fred


Good for you.  It's a lot larger and heavier than a Li-ion battery, though.[/quote]

I'm sure it is, but surely not that much heavier than the stock one I have now?[/quote]

It's probably lighter than the stock one.  You could lose several pounds, though, by going to a battery the size of a GPS.  You might gain the equivalent of another horsepower or so.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Smokestack on 07/04/11 at 16:09:28


0B3F28293737374D0 wrote:
[quote author=67595B5F51474055575F340 link=1309384428/15#26 date=1309742741]This is how I solved the whole Airbox/Filter - Battery - Electrical thing....

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j452/Smokestack75/SAM_0190.jpg


That looks nice. Did you bolt all the components in there too? Do you happen to have pictures from the other sides?

Fred[/quote]

Nah, all the wires and stuff are stuffed in there with some padding to hold 'em secure.  I don't have any other pictures at the moment, but the electrical box itself has some holes drilled in it and I bolted it to the frame through the old rear fender mount holes.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/05/11 at 11:32:33

I'm going to try to stick to the stock battery. I can probably work around it.

This is what I did today.

These are the hubs, as you know them. They are going to be polisched. I had to order the 5 bearings for both the front and rear hub - costs are 61.00 euros. Fair price?
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-JIBBVIME.jpg

These are the rims. I cut out the spokes as I will be using stainless steel (polished) spokes. I gave the rims to the powdercoater today. They will be done in RAL 3002 (high gloss red). First a layer of primer, then a layer of red. No clear coat.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-ZLFYSN6H.jpg

I needed to work around the battery and place my elec. components some where. These are the two bolts in the rear fender.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-LRMWE3KD.jpg

I used stainless steel M8x60 bolts - these push all the way through.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-SO4QGGGW.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-UAHHKCLM.jpg

I used the extended M8 nuts to lock the rectifier into place. I had some internal thread left in the nuts so that I could bolt on another component. What is this piece called exactly?
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-UTMUU7H6.jpg

I then started with the wiring diagram, but couldn't be bothered. Maybe I will do so tomorrow.

---

I took the forks apart. But I was dumb enough to press the front brake after the wheel was out, so my calipers got stuck (the brake pads).

Pressed the piston back into place (used a size 24 socket).
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-SPNF3NXD.jpg

I stripped the caliper.

Before glass bead blasting.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-WHCNYNOX.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-J6UAWLTA.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-HZKZWVXA.jpg

After glass bead blasting. Like NEW!!!
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-ZDB4FJPB.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-CSABNTLP.jpg

I even blasted the brake pads and brackets. The brake pads are in good condition, they are a lot cleaner now and have better grip on them.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-NPON6ZKO.jpg

I may spraypaint the caliper the same color as my rims are going to be - RAL 3002. However, I really like high gloss black or matte black also!

Fred

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by MotoBuddha on 07/05/11 at 13:34:44

"...so my calipers got stuck (the brake pads). Pressed the piston back into place (used a size 24 socket)."

I don't quite get this. With the caliper disconnected from the master cylinder, I've always been able to push pistons back in with just my thumbs. If your piston required more pressure than that, then perhaps your seals are gummed up and/or kinked out of position. Or there's a goo possibility I misunderstood.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/05/11 at 14:22:32


1E3C273C112637373B32530 wrote:
"...so my calipers got stuck (the brake pads). Pressed the piston back into place (used a size 24 socket)."

I don't quite get this. With the caliper disconnected from the master cylinder, I've always been able to push pistons back in with just my thumbs. If your piston required more pressure than that, then perhaps your seals are gummed up and/or kinked out of position. Or there's a goo possibility I misunderstood.


That's what I thought too, that there's a bigger issue playing than I initially thought.

I tried pushing them back with my hands, but that didn't work. I didn't really try that hard, but they should have gone back without too much trouble.

The calipers worked fine when they were still on the bike. I'm sure they'll work once I re-assemble everything.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/06/11 at 09:27:25

Update.

I disassembled a few things today (forks, triple tree, etc).

I spray painted my headlight in the same red color (RAL 3002) as my rims are going to be powdercoated.

I also spray painted my brake caliper in this red color.

Furthermore, I spray painted the exhaust shield and cylinder head panels in a heat resistant black. I did not prime the parts that were sprayed heat resistant black.

Primer.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-HDZNJN7L.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-Z6MUVIAX.jpg

Finished.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-SK8M7JQ6.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-TETDDXGC.jpg

I currently primed the top triple tree - both triple trees will be sprayed Matte Black together with the fork legs.

How do I remove the bearing on the bottom triple tree rod?

Can someone help? See pics.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-YSK6NTCI.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-6E7OKX7I.jpg

Also, I took my front fork apart, but can't seem to remove the right fork leg from the inner tube. Do I have to remove the dust seal before I can remove the inner tubes?
Pics:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-MVGHBB78.jpg

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by skeebo on 07/06/11 at 10:20:07

There is a spring clip under the dust seal, once you remove that it takes a couple firm pulls to separate.....like pulling dents with a slide hammer.

Builds lookin sweet

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by MotoBuddha on 07/06/11 at 13:35:17


233B3535323F500 wrote:
There is a spring clip under the dust seal, once you remove that it takes a couple firm pulls to separate.....like pulling dents with a slide hammer.


http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/1ecfa476.png

The clip is #4 in the drawing. Also #5 -- a bearing -- will come out when you pull the leg apart. When you put it back together, you need to make sure the bearing is seated all the way down in its groove before trying to seat the seal. You can use a piece of PVC just big enough to slide over the fork tube knock the bearing down into place. Also, make sure the groove for the retaining clip is clean and that the clip seats properly in the groove.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Edgar on 07/06/11 at 13:43:45

After you get the clip out, slide the inner tube all the way to the bottom and give it a real strong tug. Came out easy after I slide it all the way down. And hold em horizontally

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by MotoBuddha on 07/06/11 at 14:20:55

I don't think horizontal is necessary. I think I did mine vertically, holding the tube while jerking the slider down, with help from gravity.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Edgar on 07/06/11 at 14:37:10

Whatever works! Guess I just felt like I had more leverage holding them that way

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/06/11 at 14:48:30

I will give it a try tomorrow! Thanks guys..!

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 07/07/11 at 02:10:23

Does anbody have a wiring schedule/diagram?

My Savage came with a "custom" tail light, but this taillight didn't have any brake lights installed - I want to put a new tail light on it with brake lights (if possible).

Fred

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Gyrobob on 07/07/11 at 05:53:38

Yes

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by babyhog on 07/07/11 at 07:34:59


784C5B5A4444443E0 wrote:
Does anbody have a wiring schedule/diagram?

My Savage came with a "custom" tail light, but this taillight didn't have any brake lights installed - I want to put a new tail light on it with brake lights (if possible).

Fred


Tech Section, in the table of contents under Electrical

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1294779818

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 08/24/11 at 11:16:24

Been a while since my last update, but I tried to keep things moving as much as possible.

The wheels are (nearly) done. Installed the new bearings today (had to use Loctite 638 on one rear wheel bearing as it didn't want to sit still).

Lang geleden sinds een update, maar is een hele boel gedaan.

Alle motordeksels zijn gespoten, de voorvorkpoten en kroonstukken ook (foto's volgen).

- Stainless steel spokes
- Red rims
- Polished hubs, polished braking hub cover etc.
- New white wall tyres

http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-OVTL6MGZ.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-7CSLQTV7.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-MN7J8O8R.jpg

All my engine covers are also just about finished. I spray painted these (hear resistant black).

I ordered gaskets online, plus new triple tree conical bearings.

I've also spray painted the front fork (legs and triple tree) - but I've come to the conclusion that I will powdercoat them instead. They look great, that's not the problem! The paint is just a bit weak in comparison to powdercoat.

Here is a picture of the front fork assembly + wheel:

http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-ZLVLXMLO.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-VUAIYXAE.jpg

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by dasch on 08/24/11 at 12:04:02

Hey Frederick!! Looking good, really good.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by mmosel on 08/24/11 at 19:24:31

I love whitewalls!

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by sillydilly on 08/25/11 at 12:35:34

just finished my bobber project, looks awesome man. Im gunna make a blog thread to show my progress

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Demin on 08/25/11 at 15:34:33


79797B677178140 wrote:
I love whitewalls!



Me too! 8-) .They're getting harder to find in 15"


Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Savage_Amusement on 08/26/11 at 11:00:28

Awesome wheels! I love the white wall look also. I have solid flat red rims, it's a different look but I get tons of complements on it.

Title: Cam chain tensioner?
Post by Frederick on 08/31/11 at 07:24:34

My cam chain tensioner is sticking out to 22mm. I read that it shouldn't be out more than 18mm.

I have been trying to adjust it, but the how-to on doing this on here hasn't been very helpful, or I am really doing something wrong.

According to Clymer you can take it apart and put it back in place in a fixed position (so that it will unwind itself into the correct tension).

Mine falls back into its old position (of 22mm).

What am I doing wrong? What are the correct steps to take to properly adjust the tensioners?

Regards,
Fred

Title: Re: Cam chain tensioner?
Post by Smokestack on 08/31/11 at 16:00:28


24100706181818620 wrote:
My cam chain tensioner is sticking out to 22mm. I read that it shouldn't be out more than 18mm.

I have been trying to adjust it, but the how-to on doing this on here hasn't been very helpful, or I am really doing something wrong.

According to Clymer you can take it apart and put it back in place in a fixed position (so that it will unwind itself into the correct tension).

Mine falls back into its old position (of 22mm).

What am I doing wrong? What are the correct steps to take to properly adjust the tensioners?

Regards,
Fred


To the best of my knowledge, the tensioners aren't adjustable, they just provide constant spring tension to keep your cam timing correct as the chain stretches and the guides wear. You can reload it, but the spring will always go back to the point it makes contact with your (now stretched) cam chain.

As far as I know, you have 2 options;

1) use your tensioner and replace the cam chain and guides.  This will be pricey, and a big hassle.

2) buy a Verslavy chain tensioner from verslagen1 here on the website.  He sells a modded tensioner that has an extended life and stop pin, preventing any damage from the plunger popping out and allowing you to use your existing cam chain for a lot longer.

I'd go with option 2  ;).  That's what I did, and I couldnt be happier.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 09/12/11 at 12:49:35

I will work the cam chain tension issue out another time (no worries, I won't be riding the bike).

Got the stuff back from the powdercoaters (frame, swing arm, complete forks and so on).

Here's the front fork assembly all put together - notice how I used the How-To on here to do the high risers using size 16 sockets.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-NUYJS8M7.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-ROGWUHK6.jpg

I will be getting 14" apehanger handlebars. Not sure whether to get chrome ones or gold plated (chrome) ones - something to figure out later.

Frame looks good. Fitted the rear wheel to see how the fender positions in accordance with the wheel and its new tyres.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-F8OSAOOT.jpg

A little detail thing: I had the belt drive pulley sand blasted, I then masked off the fins and spray painted the pulley assembly in a (heat resistant) dark grey. I used stainless steel bolts and washers for the drive pulley plate. I covered the six M10x1.25 nuts that hold the pulley into place with black nut-covers.

I guess I could have left the drive belt pulley in its original glass-bead-blasted aluminum color, but I was afraid that it would oxidize after a certain amount of time.

Anyhow.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-LYOW4N4P.jpg

QUICK TO DO LIST

- Cam chain tensioner (later)
- Waiting on triple tree bearings (then I can finally mount my forks and have a rolling frame).
- Spray paint rear fender and tank
- Order 14" apehangers (probably gold)

Thanks for watching.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by sillydilly on 09/12/11 at 21:19:59


0A3E29283636364C0 wrote:
notice how I used the How-To on here to do the high risers using size 16 sockets.



:)

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by PerrydaSavage on 09/12/11 at 23:55:20

Build is coming along nicely Fred ... lookin' good! BUT, a copper/gold tank with checker board stripe will not go with those lovely red rims and white walled tires ... the rims and tires are classic Americana "Hot Rod" ... a flat black tank with red/white pinstriping or pin-up gal decals would better suit IMHO ...

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 09/14/11 at 03:13:52


0A3F2828233E3B093B2C3B3D3F5A0 wrote:
Build is coming along nicely Fred ... lookin' good! BUT, a copper/gold tank with checker board stripe will not go with those lovely red rims and white walled tires ... the rims and tires are classic Americana "Hot Rod" ... a flat black tank with red/white pinstriping or pin-up gal decals would better suit IMHO ...


No worries! As mentioned in the topic and posts above, I will have the rear fender and the tank spray painted matte black!

Fred

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Jockesavage on 09/24/11 at 08:14:56

Were do I buy spokes for my stock savage?

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 09/27/11 at 04:09:18


290C000806300215020406630 wrote:
Were do I buy spokes for my stock savage?


I'm sure you can find complete Savage spoke kits on eBay or possible even on here if you ask around.

I'm guessing you want new spokes. Try a decent wheel shop. I had mine (custom) made, stainless steel.

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 09/27/11 at 04:53:10

Just some quick pics as she sits now:

Waiting for the new handlebars - picking them up this Friday hopefully
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-6EN7SIFN.jpg

Properly powdercoated legs
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-3SK74GXW.jpg

The shifter is being a bit of a nuisance - needs some final adjustments once everything is in place.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-SFEA7A44.jpg

http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-6D6DPKTA.jpg

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by brucey on 10/13/11 at 17:34:17

Where did you get the whitewalls? do they fit the stock rims?  I need to have a set of those. Your build is looking great

Title: Re: Savage Bobber Project
Post by Frederick on 10/17/11 at 01:17:36

Got mine from a webshop in Sweden. But I live in Europe, so postage wasn't too bad.

I don't think they ship to the states.

These are Maxxis tyres if I'm not mistaken - you can get them off eBay or on webshops in the US!

SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2!
YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved.