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Message started by silas on 05/25/11 at 06:40:48

Title: Clutch!
Post by silas on 05/25/11 at 06:40:48

Been searching and read up on clutch adjustment here. My 1992 savage is slipping loads in the higher gears, sometimes up to 5 seconds before i start accelerating.

My clutch cable pulls right at the end on the level (i.e there's no play in the cable) And also on the casing my lever is about a cm above the top mark. So do i need a new rod in the clutch?

My big queston is how do i go about replacing this?? atm the big is pretty un rideable because of it.

Also a simple question - how do i loosen the clutch cable - i have had a play but doesn't make any difference no matter which nut / ripped ring i turn.

Really want to get this sorted

Cheers
Silas

Title: Re: Clutch!
Post by ohio thumper on 05/25/11 at 09:12:06

the arm on mine was the same way. above the hash mark. i just took my plates out and cleaned them per oldfeller's thread in the tech section to get mine back in between the marks

Title: Re: Clutch!
Post by silas on 05/25/11 at 09:50:50

So a good clean can bring it back between the marks? i think i wil lget a longer rod. Is there anything i should know before i take the cover off?

Cheeers

Title: Re: Clutch!
Post by verslagen1 on 05/25/11 at 10:13:03

I'd order the long and the short because the one to use is counter-intuitive.

Title: Re: Clutch!
Post by Sunchasers on 05/25/11 at 10:32:46

+1 I ordered both the short and long pins with my last parts order just to have them available when the time comes. Now if I can only make sure I don't forget where I store them.... :-/

Title: Re: Clutch!
Post by silas on 05/25/11 at 11:14:35

I can't find the parts over here, but can possibly make some rods up.

6mm diameter right?

Is there anything to bear in mind before starting?

Cheers

Title: Re: Clutch!
Post by Oldfeller on 05/25/11 at 19:07:19

Silas, go hard on the clutch pin material -- a case hardened ground roller bearing pin, not a softer dowel pin. You can use easier to find 1/4" materials instead of 6mm materials, just so they are full hardened and you don't soften them up grinding on them, etc.

Verslagen mentions the counter-intuitive nature of clutch parts wear, a lot of that seems to be the cable stretching and the clutch pins wearing causing things to seem to go "backwards" as far as plate wear would indicate.

Me, I used a .250" M2 round lathe bit that I had left over from a lathe tool bit kit from my minilathe -- for some odd reason it is holding up very very well indeed ....

;)

... like mebbe because it is a freakin' steel cutting bit that still cuts normal steel when it gets low red hot due to cutting friction? Nothing in our clutch system is ever going to phase that piece of M2 rod I really don't think ...

You want your actuation lever on the side of the clutch case to be as low in position relative to the marks as you can coax it to being, while still allowing some actuation motion freedom on the actuation lever.

You don't want to put the push rod into a bind when you compress the gasket when tighten the side case up with all them little bolts.

Title: Re: Clutch!
Post by silas on 05/31/11 at 13:49:51

Thanks for the help, Haven't got round to opening her up yet and doing it but will see how i get on.

Cheers