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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> The Project: Phase 2 /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1299341922 Message started by MotoBuddha on 03/05/11 at 08:18:42 |
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Title: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/05/11 at 08:18:42 I installed the Ryca fork "shortening" kit today. It doesn't really shorten the forks, just the amount of rebound travel by slipping a spacer onto the damper rod. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/3126b9af.jpg The fork is fully compressed in the shot below because I haven't installed the springs yet. I'm awaiting notes from Ryca about the proper length to cut the spacers. You don't cut the spacers if you're using stock springs, because the stock springs are kind if limp and could use all the preload they can get. I got the stiffer springs. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/cb5b84c1.jpg Oh yeah, and I temporarily installed the clip-ons. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/faee728a.jpg The process isn't hard. I replaced the seals, retaining clips and wiper boots while I was at it. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by jandaso on 03/05/11 at 08:28:46 Really Nice. I envy You!!!! Btw going back to the polishing. Sorry if I needed to put this somewhere else. I bought this product at home depot: http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m638/jandaso/9b7c4edf.jpg And is giving me awesome results. http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m638/jandaso/4855dbfb.jpg |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/05/11 at 08:39:18 I used the same clear coat remover. Good stuff. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by jandaso on 03/05/11 at 08:42:36 I got the product from you, but I ordered online since I couldn't find it in any store. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/05/11 at 08:45:03 You had to order it? Wow. It was on the shelf at my local AutoZone. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by jandaso on 03/05/11 at 09:02:54 Double check on this: Go to Rycamotors.com an click on news. There is a video that shows you how to install Te front forks. I sure they talk about using progressive springs and to cut the spacers 1-1.5". |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/05/11 at 10:09:43 Cool. Thanks. I don't remember getting the update on this. Everything else usually shows up in my email. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by s40fan on 03/05/11 at 11:02:14 Any thoughts on shortening the after market springs instead of cutting the spacers? I wish RYCA had an option for the shorter spacers before they sent it all out and then stating you need to trim the spacers. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/05/11 at 11:21:21 Shortening springs usually makes them stiffer. That might be good or bad, depending on the spring rate you start with and what sort of rate you want to end up with. These are progressively wound springs, so there's a "soft" end and a "hard" end. You'd get different results from whichever end you cut. Cutting the spacers isn't any harder than cutting springs. Fire up the angle grinder and cut away. Should Ryca have included correct length spacers with the upgraded springs? It would have been nice, but considering how overwhelmed they are, I can cut my own. The general rule of thumb is to slide the springs and spacer in, then cut off the amount of spacer that sticks above the end of the fork. Then the fork cap will compress things to the proper preload. I'll go see how much sticks out in this case. If it's 1-1.5", then I'm in the ballpark. UPDATE: The spacer sticks out about 3/4" |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by jandaso on 03/05/11 at 13:47:13 The video Is not in The news page. I'm sorry about that. You click on the buy section and at the bottom of the page click on the last update. In that page look for "this week video" i posted the video URL for you to see it and again I'm sorry. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-DDWfy8p3M[/media] |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/05/11 at 14:30:49 Ryan pointed me to their YouTube page. Found it, cut an inch off the spacers, put it together except for oil. I'll put that in at final assembly of the whole bike. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by jandaso on 03/05/11 at 15:01:35 I'm looking forward to seing your bike finish. Your doing a hell of a job. Soon I will be doing mine too. :-? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by Abbey Normal on 03/05/11 at 15:04:44 Looking good and I'm looking forward to more photos of your build. I got my fork parts yesterday and am just waiting for my build slot to come up. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by s40fan on 03/05/11 at 16:47:42 Spacers werent as big a hassle as I thought. Cut them with some bicycle mechanic tools I have for fork steerer tubes. Bad news is I received two right side handlebar mounts and didnt realize it till it all went together! :( Sent an email to RYCA requesting a replacement. Was planning on doing the front end and running it till the rest of the order comes in to see how the bike runs with just the RYCA front end options. Oh well for now. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/05/11 at 17:05:41 Now that I think of it, a pipe cutter would work quite nicely. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/06/11 at 11:36:42 With springs and gaiters. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/c7748daf.jpg With the forks and gaiters completely compressed, the gaiters were too tall. So I extended the forks and let the gaiters find their natural length. That showed the gaiters were four folds too long, plus the narrow collar at the end. I cut off three so there would still be a little tension holding them against the bottom of the triple clamp. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by s40fan on 03/06/11 at 14:49:16 MotoBuddha, curious about your bar setup. I notice you have them reversed from the normal RYCA setup. Bars point up vs down. Is that the way your are going to keep it for final build? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 03/06/11 at 15:23:25 2123343032323C570 wrote:
was wondering the same thing. Just installed mine pointing down. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/06/11 at 15:24:09 I've been going back and forth on this. I have to account for the slant of the forks. I was looking at various Ryca photos, but it looks like there have been at least two versions of the clamps. In a video it shows the bolts for the part that clamps around the fork turned to face inside the triple trees instead of outside, with the bar bolts at the bottom. In the photos of the first bike, the bars are nearly flat with almost no pullback. Like I said, I'll have to see how things fit once the forks are on the bike. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 03/06/11 at 15:29:58 how are you going to handle the little peg inside the left and right hand handlebar controls? I don't the exact name of the part, so I am sorry about that. But, basically the OEM bars have one small hole on each side drilled in. This corresponds to a little peg inside the left and right controls, so that it doesn't rotate. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by Abbey Normal on 03/06/11 at 15:34:47 On other bikes with different handlebars, I've found a small wrap of duct tape (solves 90% of problems) has done really well holding the clamp to new bars. Or mark where the dimple will contact the bars and drill a hole to match. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 03/06/11 at 15:36:39 517962567F627375100 wrote:
Yea, the problem will be finding the exact spot where that hole should be. On another note, referring to the above comments about the way your bars are mounted- check out the fork upgrade installation video and you will see that the bars are mounted pointing down. I have an e-mail sent off to Ryan to clarify this issue. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by Abbey Normal on 03/06/11 at 15:36:49 I like the gaiters...nice touch. I'm curious to know when you got on the Ryca list. I got on in early December and am just trying to get an idea of when Santa Clause might be visiting with a sack of Ryca goodies... 4F6D766D407766666A63020 wrote:
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/06/11 at 15:43:02 46575440524F350 wrote:
The way I've done this with other bikes is to put a piece of duct tape on the bar, position the switch /throttle pod loosely where it needs to be, then squeeze the halves together so a depression is made in the tape by the locating pin. Put an ink dot on it, drill a small pilot hole, then follow with a hole the necessary size. Pull off the tame and mount things up. The clip-ons are aluminum, so they'll drill easily. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/06/11 at 15:47:20 7A52497D5449585E3B0 wrote:
[/quote] In November, I think. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by verslagen1 on 03/06/11 at 16:08:11 67455E45685F4E4E424B2A0 wrote:
The way I've done this with other bikes is to put a piece of duct tape on the bar, position the switch /throttle pod loosely where it needs to be, then squeeze the halves together so a depression is made in the tape by the locating pin. Put an ink dot on it, drill a small pilot hole, then follow with a hole the necessary size. Pull off the tame and mount things up. The clip-ons are aluminum, so they'll drill easily.[/quote] most people just file the pins off, the controls clamp down on the bar fairly well. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/06/11 at 17:24:51 It's easy to drill the clip-ons because the bars can be rotated into whatever orientation you need after you drill the holes. For example, take one of the bars, slide the throttle sleeve on, then put the pod around it and the tab is right there where you can mark the distance from the end of the bar. Take everything off, drill the hole, slide the sleeve back on, slip the throttle cable in place, bolt the halves of the pod together, slide the master cylinder on from the other end, tighten the bolts, then slide the bar into the mount, twist it around to where you like it and tighten the bolts. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 03/06/11 at 18:04:00 A copy of an e-mail I just got from Ryan "The bars could go either way I guess, but we always install them pointing down. You can either drill the holes in the bars, or file the pins off, but I would recommend drilling a hole for the pins. We'll show that in the build video, we just wanted to get the clip-ons out to people as soon as possible. -Ryca" |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/07/11 at 04:53:38 Here's the shot from the spring installation video that had me second guessing. Notice the location of the pinch bolts. I used them to orient the clamps -- left, right, which way up. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/102786d1.jpg With the bar pinch bolts at the bottom and the fork pinch bolts facing inward, the bars tilt upward. But now I realize the clamps in the photo are not the same as the ones done in the production run. On the current ones, the two sets of pinch bolts are 90º to each other, not more or less opposite. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/08/11 at 04:34:00 Evidence my tank and hub arrived at Ryca. Mine are on the far left. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/fa8a496d.jpg This photos is from their weekly email update. So things are moving along. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 03/08/11 at 05:09:36 Nice! Mine should be arriving there any day now too. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 03/08/11 at 07:21:24 Hey buddha, have you tackled the task of front brake lines yet? Was looking on ebay and the web and was thinking of ordering a custom braided steel brake line setup for my RYCA kit. Was just curious if you had thought about doing this, and if so, which types of banjo fittings and length of brake line you decided on. I see the banjo's come in anything from 90 degree to straight to anything in between. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/08/11 at 08:13:14 I have a guy who has supplied me with custom stainless steel brake lines before. I was going to wait until I got the frame powder coated and the front end back on so I could measure how long it needs to be. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/09/11 at 05:59:51 Mirror, mirror... I gravitate toward bar end mirrors, but since I'll be using bar end turn signals on this bike, I needed to find something different. I don't want something standing way up off the bars, ruining the low look of the clip-ons, so at first I was thinking of the round, short-stalk mirrors found on some '80s Hondas. Then I realized I wouldn't be able to see much more than my arms. I eventually found these. Simple, clean, able to sit wide and low to the bars. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/d8e30d96.jpg |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by verslagen1 on 03/09/11 at 08:13:17 766572736C6167656E31000 wrote: http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/1/9/0/9/4/webimg/125670281_tp.jpg http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-Mini-MIRROR-w-CLAMP-fit-internal-throttle-chopper_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ35564QQihZ014QQitemZ330305679571 |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by verslagen1 on 03/09/11 at 08:17:04 78757D717372787675711C0 wrote:
[smiley=thumbsup.gif] http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh128/russ_diamond_jim/S4021566.jpg |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by verslagen1 on 03/09/11 at 09:27:54 http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1234358036/1#1 I was hoping to find the whole construction, this seems to be cut off. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/13/11 at 15:06:11 Nothing big this weekend. I'm waiting for parts. So after consulting with my painter buddy, I sprayed some clear on some of the polished and cleaned up parts. I used DupliColor lacquer. It goes down very smooth. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/18/11 at 06:52:31 I've wanted to go with an 18" front wheel for a few reasons. One is to get it more inline with old school road bikes rather than cruisers. Another is to drop the front another half inch. And third is to match more closely the rim Ryca uses in the kit. I originally assumed I'd get the rim from Buchanan Spoke & Rim, but I got poking around on the net and found a guy with the rim I want for significantly less that Buchanan -- and he had it in stock. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/8b116585.jpg 18" x 2.15 WM3 shouldered, dimpled, polished, aluminum. And then I learned about Woody's Wheel Works, who uses Buchanan spokes but will lace and true the wheel for less. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by randyradio on 03/18/11 at 06:55:29 Dang MB that's great news. It would seem having them do both fr/rr may be a less costly deal as well. Tell us the deal and all, so we can jump on these wheel sets. When's your stuff coming back from RYCA LA? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/19/11 at 09:18:35 Just a little wheel comparison. Left to right: 15" rear from the Savage, crusty 18" front from a GS450, 19" from the Savage. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/db191fbc.jpg |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/19/11 at 13:25:43 I guess Phase 2 = the waiting stage. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by jandaso on 03/19/11 at 13:51:19 Good stuff. Getting a lot of ideas. 8-) |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/19/11 at 17:17:30 After a lot of spraying and soaking with various cleaners, I realized some of the dirty spots on my crankcase were actually places the paint had worn off in its past life of neglect, or the stains went clear through to the aluminum. And it seems the transmission cover was never painted to begin with. So I figured I'd experiment with some paint in an area of the engine that won't be seen when the bike is together. We'll see how that works. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/e9f4a87c.jpg |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/20/11 at 08:37:27 My friend Steve introduces me to his buffing wheel. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/301eb3ee.jpg |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/20/11 at 13:22:40 The paint mentioned above seems to have worked, so I did the rest of the crankcase. And I did the starter in black. The cover behind the starter (what's it for anyway?) will be done the same color as the frame. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by Abbey Normal on 03/20/11 at 15:13:46 Yeah, what is that cover?? I painted mine satin black. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/20/11 at 16:08:10 Back on my first thread about this project, someone asked if I would be replacing the cam chain guides since I had the top end apart and would be installing a new chain. Here's what my guides look like after less than 9,000 miles. I can barely feel the "worst" spot when I run a fingernail over it. The other areas just have the slightest of rub marks. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/c50aa93e.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/c06efd12.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/0a943ad7.jpg So, no, I won't be replacing them. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/20/11 at 16:09:38 567E655178657472170 wrote:
Maybe it's for bugs to live under when we don't ride enough. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by engineer on 03/20/11 at 18:10:34 Glad you posted the picture and information. It is just as useful to know what wears well as it is to know what causes trouble. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/20/11 at 18:32:45 Hurray! I learned my Stage 1 cam is making its way back to me. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by randyradio on 03/21/11 at 10:15:28 I'm just starting to get acquainted with my 8" buffer. I see you wear protection and gloves. I'm sure finding that the wheel will grab some items and sling em but good. Randy BTW have you ever put in a cam before? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/21/11 at 10:25:48 That's my friend, Steve. He's wearing coveralls and gloves because he was doing a brake job on his wife's car. I just wore nitrile gloves to keep the wax off my hands and body oils off the aluminum. I've never done a cam, but after reading the instructions, it doesn't seem hard. Just get the flywheel TDC mark and the horizontal marks on the cam in the right place. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/21/11 at 12:40:19 The new 18" front rim arrived today. I shipped it and the hub out to Woody's Wheel Works to be laced and trued. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by jandaso on 03/21/11 at 13:30:01 Why did You went with the stage 1 and not the stage 2 cam?? Just wondering since I'm trying to upgrade for one of them and also upgrade the piston to a Wiseco 97mm. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/21/11 at 13:32:43 Seems like the Stage 2 is fine if you're going to be blasting abound at top speed most of the time. I just wanted to smooth out the power band. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by verslagen1 on 03/21/11 at 13:46:13 stage 1 is generally know as a mild cam. It will wake up performance w/o overstressing the valve train. As it broadens open time w/o openning the valves any more than stock. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by jandaso on 03/21/11 at 13:56:36 Is kind of ironic of my part that last year I had an accident on a yamaha R1 and told myself never to be stupid again and take it Slow. Main reason why I wanted an old school cafe racer. Then I came across the RYCA kit and the Suzuki s40 (one cylinder and really simple to work on). Now that I have the S40 I just want to modified till it Cant handle no more. :-/ . I'm pull hard on the throttle all the time and is because I'm young and seeking thrills (that's why I Do skydiving also 8-)) ..... I went off topic there....sorry. So stage 2 gives me more power but I don't want to be hurting The engine. Recommendations??? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/21/11 at 14:07:09 Lancer is the guy with all the info. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by 2whlthrpy on 03/21/11 at 14:19:41 Yes, but where is he? Anyone know when he will be back? Waiting for a jet kit so I have a vested interest. :'( |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by jandaso on 03/21/11 at 14:42:20 http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1300288454 |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by 2whlthrpy on 03/24/11 at 15:30:53 Ok that explains it. I knew he was away but not why. Thanks Jandaso. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/30/11 at 09:10:38 A freshly cut copper gasket for my big bore arrived today. Now I just need to find someone with an oxygen/acetylene torch so I can anneal it. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/222b7592.jpg (Yeah, it kind of looks like brass in the photo. Darn white balance problems.) |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by buttgoat1 on 03/30/11 at 09:21:10 how hot do you need? wouldn't a standard propane torch do it? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/30/11 at 09:58:58 The instructions didn't give a specific temperature, just a color -- orange. I suspect they specify an oxygen/acetylene torch (with a rosebud tip) so you can heat a larger area at a time to keep things more even. I imagine the same instructions go out with all their gaskets, including ones for big multicylinder engines. I'll call them and get clarification. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by verslagen1 on 03/30/11 at 11:20:54 can you post the instructions? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/30/11 at 11:46:34 http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/39a04719.jpg |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 03/30/11 at 17:43:30 I emailed Casey at Ryca to get an approximate ETA on the kit. The answer was roughly two weeks -- for my stuff, anyway. I'm getting all bare metal so I don't need to wait for paint and powdercoating. My tank has been cut, welded and pressure tested. I asked if were possible to get the frame parts -- battery box, rearset bracket, etc. -- ahead of the rest of the kit so I can get them and my frame powdercoated. (I'm not going with black.) Casey said he'd check on that. Two things are holding up kit delivery. One is all the wheels that need to be laced and trued (and in most cases, tires mounted). The other is the supplier of the lengthened speedo cables. So I'll have to see what shows up in time for my birthday. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/30/11 at 19:43:25 17352E35182F3E3E323B5A0 wrote:
Thats some fine info,, thanks.. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 03/31/11 at 04:30:35 I just got an e-mail from Ryan last night because I had inquired about timing too. Mine will be around 3-4 weeks. Waiting on powder coating, rear sets, and shocks. Tank is done. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by engineer on 03/31/11 at 18:12:07 Yup. That's how you anneal copper. I have always done it with oxy-acetylene but a propane torch is hot enough, use one of those wide tips if you have one. A piece of copper that thin and large will cool rapidly. So practice your routine for getting it off the hanger and into the water quickly. Don't do it in bright light, you want to see the color and not overheat it. Don't worry if every corner isn't glowing orange the instant you quench it, it will still soften as long as it has some color when it hits the water. Cooper annealing is the opposite of steel so don't generalize the directions to some other material. You'll likely have to touch it up with some fine emery cloth or steel wool after the quench. And if you ever have that gasket out in the future and want to soften it again prior to reassembly , repeat the procedure. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by verslagen1 on 03/31/11 at 19:13:24 Thankyou MB [smiley=thumbsup.gif] |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/02/11 at 07:05:10 The Ryca guys are concerned about my intent to convert to chain drive. In designing the kit, the clearances between the rearset brackets and the belt were carefully worked out in conjunction with the longer shocks. The chain sprockets are smaller diameter than the pulleys, making the space inside the chain smaller. The chain might rub somewhere. But I hate the look of belt drive, so I'm going to make chain drive work, one way or another. To that end, I got one of these. It's supposed to be a chain tensioner for Harley choppers, but I figure it can be used to hold the chain away from the rearset bracket. I'll know where to mount it once I get the rough assembly done with the rearset bracket, longer shocks and chain drive. It could be welded to either the swingarm or rearset bracket. Some cutting might be necessary. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/bcd68bdf.jpg |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/07/11 at 11:09:40 Just got this email from Casey -- the CA in RYCA: We're going to ship out your parts as soon as we receive the sidestand pieces from the waterjet guys. The pieces are cut from 1inch plate and it took them a while to get this next batch ready, but they said tomorrow. We'll get your parts to you so you can start powdercoating. The rest of your kit shouldn't be far behind. We received the speedo cables, but still waiting on wheels and shocks (but I think you have your own shocks anyway). -Casey Woo-HOO! Soon, baby, soon. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by Boule’tard on 04/07/11 at 13:14:58 15372C371A2D3C3C3039580 wrote:
You could always increase the size of both sprockets (about 3 teeth on the rear per tooth up front) until the diameters are comparable to the stock pulleys, right? Or increase them just enough to get clearance while maintaining the same ratio. The idler sprockets do look pretty cool. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by mpnoffi on 04/09/11 at 18:57:49 I'm looking forward to seeing how you mount this thing. I'm using 12.5" shocks on my scrambler build and running into the same situation. If it looks like it's going to be too much of a headache to mount this thing think about just using a delrin chain slider on the swing arm like the dirt bike/dual sport bike guys do. Over at ADVrider.com I've seen tons of guys swear by these things. They claim thousands of miles and no apparent wear and lots of life left still. search ebay motors for delrin slider or chain slider and you'll get plenty of options. My only concern would be...just think of the downward pressure that will be placed on the third sprocket every time you gas it. Either way, I'm still anxious to see how you do it. best of luck... mpnoffi ;) |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/10/11 at 05:09:40 Here's what I'm thinking. This is a picture of the Ryca rearset mount. Notice the box section tubing. Thats the area that's between the swingarm and belt. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/23ac1feb.jpg Here it is mounted on the bike. The shot from the brake side gives a clearer view of where the box section fits in the scheme of things, though you can make it out somewhat in the shot of the belt side. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/4bc477ac.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/06e7e8b0.jpg Plan A is to just notch the bottom of the box section for chain clearance. If that doesn't look feasible after I get the rough assembly done, then Plan B is the idler sprocket. It looks like I could cut the angle off the idler's arm and then weld it to the back face of the box section so the sprocket sits low enough to hold the chain away from the rearset mount. As for rubbing against the top of the swingarm, yeah, a delrin slider is probably the answer, though its additional thickness just about guarantees it will rub. If I hadn't already cut the belt guard tabs off the front of the swingarm, I probably could have used them to mount a block of delrin in front of the swingarm,extending upward, so it didn't increase thickness on top of the swingarm. Hmmmmm... But I'll need to se how thing actually fit with the chain. Plan C is probably to grit my teeth and accept the fact I need to go back to belt drive. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/14/11 at 07:22:07 My newly laced and trued front wheel is making it's way here via UPS Ground. Judging by the tracking information (read from bottom to top) it looks like they're just rolling it across the country. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/9957e9de.png http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/274a32b7.png I guess it will be here tomorrow, unless they need to give it another shove in, say, Salisbury. ;D |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by Seroj on 04/14/11 at 07:26:32 That's hilarious! |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/14/11 at 08:05:06 785A415A774051515D54350 wrote:
A notch with a piece of pipe welded down in it will still be plenty strong. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/14/11 at 08:38:38 Right. It's not like I stand on the pegs. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/15/11 at 14:37:31 The front wheel arrived. Stainless steel spokes and nickel nipples. Yum. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/f927800c.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/7a76dab7.jpg Along with a set of double-möbius infinity bearings. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/c8ede079.jpg Guess I'll spend a rainy weekend cutting all the whiskers off the tire. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/16/11 at 00:25:24 A Fine looking front wheel.. The double mobius bearing is hilarious. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/16/11 at 07:31:13 Because I'm kind of obsessive about such things, I had to cut all the molding whiskers off the tire. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/c53fc2ca.jpg There's an hour of my life I won't get back. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 04/16/11 at 07:47:54 705249527F485959555C3D0 wrote:
Well spent |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/16/11 at 07:53:41 I thot the object was to wear them things off in corners..'I agree,, there should be as few of them as possible,, but removing them manually??? Naaaahhhh,, thats just wrong, man.. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/16/11 at 13:12:22 All mounted up. Need to get some spoke weights to balance it. It's really off. The tire is the same Kenda model Ryca supplies on the rear. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/90180dc0.jpg |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/16/11 at 18:32:03 Besides helping me mount the tire (or me helping him), my painter buddy did some color tests for the body work. We used one of the Savage side covers so I could see what it looks like on a curved surface. The goal is a green so dark it's almost black—sort of ultra dark British Racing Green. So we started with a black base, shot a light coat of abalone pearl, then three coats of candy green. Perfect. It looks black with green highlights on the edges. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by Abbey Normal on 04/17/11 at 08:38:16 Have you looked into using Dyna Beads (www.innovativebalancing.com) instead of spoke weights?? I have used them on 4 sets of tires on my GS and they work great. And no unsightly stick-on or mash-on weights. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/17/11 at 11:08:50 DynaBeads have big fans and big haters. I remain unconvinced either way. In the meantime, lead is fine with me. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by RidgeRunner13 on 04/17/11 at 11:36:51 Back in the day, we used rosin core solder wrapped around the spokes. 8-) |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/17/11 at 12:03:40 Well, the wheel fits with no problems. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/6d93775e.jpg While I was at it, I did a very rough test to see if one of the stainless steel brake lines that used to be on my other bike would fit. One seems plenty long and the other m-m-m-m-m-m-might work, though it could be too short. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 04/17/11 at 13:46:44 explain your brake rotor please. Looks cool. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/17/11 at 15:01:41 It's from EBC. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/ea04b596.jpg |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by LANCER on 04/18/11 at 03:30:44 07253E25083F2E2E222B4A0 wrote:
How much ? Part # ? fun factor rating? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by Edgar on 04/18/11 at 04:27:59 I've been following this from the start, sorry if i missed this somewhere, but which fork gaitors are those? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/18/11 at 04:44:48 717C737E786F2F2A1D0 wrote:
How much ? Part # ? fun factor rating?[/quote] EBC Pro-Lite MD3017LS About $160 Not as much fun as a re-profiled cam, if I had it. (hint, hint) |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/18/11 at 04:53:05 5170737566140 wrote:
MSR Daystar, series 58 They're meant for dirt bikes, so they're long. Some people use them as is, but since my forks are dropped a couple of inches, I cut off about three pleats. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by Gyrobob on 04/18/11 at 08:48:43 I've seen various dynamic balancing systems in automotive, motorcycling, and aviation applications. They all work. I used PJ-1 Balance Plus ever since I read an article in Motorcyclist or Cycle World back in the 80's. They tested the stuff, starting off saying there was no way that putting goop in your tires was a good thing. They changed their minds. They loved it after a few weeks. They even deliberately put some weight on a spoke to see if the goop would balance it out. It did. They also liked the idea that as the tire wore, it would stay in balance automatically. Most tires, when perfectly balanced mechanically (initially), usually lose some of their balance gradually as the tire wears. There were three downsides: 1. Everytime you started up the bike and took off, it took a few hundred yards for the goop to distribute itself, so it felt out of balance (it WAS) until the stuff spread itself around. 2. The stuff is also a leak/puncture sealer, so you are duty-bound to inspect your tires more often because you might be riding around with a puncture with nail in it and not know it because the goop seals well. 3. Makes for a messy time when you change tubeless tires. Adds 10 minutes to the job to wipe the old PJ-1 off the rim. A guy at work uses Dyna Beads in all his street vehicles, two, four, and six wheeled. Swears by it. Brags about not ever having to pay for balancing, and having tidy looking wheels devoid of clumps of weights. Says he always had cupping of some sort or another on the tires of his larger vehicles until he found out about Dyna Beads. Another buddy I haven't seen for a while always mounted his own tires (bikes and cars), and would put in 12 or 15 oz. of anti-freeze. Yes, antifreeze. I told him about PJ-1, and he said he didn't want the self-sealing feature. He wanted the dynamic balancing (which he said worked a lot sooner than PJ-1) but didn't want to possibly be riding around with some schrapnel in his tire not knowing about it. Since I am a little concerned about the appearance my soon to be RYCA CS-1, I think it would be nice to not have clumps of lead or solder hanging on to a spoke. Some sort of dynamic balancing would at least tidy up the appearance of the wheels. The ultralight community has been using mercury-filled dynamic prop balancers for decades. Vibration is a VERY big deal with them because when things start cracking or falling off your 250lb aircraft, your angst level goes way up. Dyna Beads and the like work on the same principle as these circular prop balancers. One trick I have used before (that I used this time when mounting the front tires on our CS-1 projects) was to mount the tire, put the tire/wheel on an axle, spin the tire just a little, and note how rapidly it settled. I then deflated it, popped the beads off the rim, rotated the tire relative to the rim 90 degrees, reinflated, spun it again, and noticed how rapidly it settled. After doing this a few times, I got it to where it would settle very slowly -- indicating to me I had mostly canceled out the built-in imbalance in the wheel, tube, valve stem, nuts, valve cap, rim strip, and tire. So, now, no matter how I choose to balance the wheel/tire, it will have less imbalance to cancel out. The last time did this a few years ago with a GS850G, I got the front tire such that no weights or goop were needed at all. Smooth ride for the life of that tire. So,... now I have to decide,.. PJ-1? Antifreeze? Dyna Beads? Slime? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/18/11 at 08:51:22 It was asked elsewhere whether the Raptor petcock would fit after Ryca modified the tank, making it less tall. Good question. Since Ryca has said nothing about needing a different petcock, and since a different one isn't listed as part of the kit, it's safe to assume the stock petcock fits the modified tank. With that the case, how does the Raptor petcock compare to the stock one? http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/cb6e7d2f.jpg The intake tubes on the Raptor are about a half inch shorter than stock, so no problem there. Also, the distance from the mounting surface to the lever is slightly greater on the Raptor, so it should clear whatever the new bottom edge of the tank is like. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by ralfyguy on 04/18/11 at 15:15:20 I always wondered if a cross drilled rotor eats brake pads quicker. Also wonder what the difference in performance would be. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/20/11 at 05:42:15 19272C313C313C5E0 wrote:
So, is the weight of dynamic balancing stuff equal to, less than or greater than the weight of the lead required to balance a wheel? Because more unsprung weight to achieve the same thing wouldn't be too desirable. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by engineer on 04/20/11 at 13:45:53 That new wheel looks great in there. I was looking at the picture of the rims a few pages back. Will that GS450 front rim lace up to the Savage hub? Is it the same width, 2.15 I think it is? I haven't laced a wheel since the sixties and back then all the British bikes used rims and spokes from the same supplier and had limited hub sizes so interchanging was easy, very few questions to ask and they would fit every time. I think the 18 inch rim looks good but I am unsure about the angles for the spokes, I don't know if different manufacturers use different angles now and where would a person get an 18 inch rim that would fit and where do you find shorter spokes. I would prefer to lace my own to save money and also because I like to do it myself. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/20/11 at 14:14:35 The GS450 used lighter gauge spokes. That would mean the spoke holes would need to be drilled out in order to use it with an LS650 hub. Both it and the LS650 are 36-spoke wheels, but the GS rim is 1.60" wide while the LS rim is 2.15", meaning you shouldn't run as wide a tire. However, the bigger GS's would probably have wider rims and use heavier gauge spokes. The trick is finding a wire spoke wheel from the bigger bikes, since most people went for the models with alloy wheels. But you don't need to use a Suzuki rim, just a 36-holer that's wide enough. As far as different angles go, its just a matter of how you arrange them. The pros can make about anything work. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/20/11 at 14:18:31 2D0F140F221504040801600 wrote:
So, is the weight of dynamic balancing stuff equal to, less than or greater than the weight of the lead required to balance a wheel? Because more unsprung weight to achieve the same thing wouldn't be too desirable.[/quote] I found the answer at the Dynabead site. About 1oz. of beads for a tire my size. So I ordered some. I will perform my own test and add it to the pile of pro and anti opinions. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/22/11 at 05:48:41 WOO-HOO! 24.6 pounds of stuff is on its way from Ryca Motors. Or at least shipping labels have been generated for two boxes. It should be my tank, various Ryca frame parts, and possibly the rear wheel assembly and bodywork. I hope it arrives before I leave the country for a week, starting May 5. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/22/11 at 10:39:59 I learned it's the bodywork that's coming. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 04/22/11 at 13:55:54 sweet! |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by Abbey Normal on 04/23/11 at 09:10:49 Excellent! I'm looking forward to seeing your finished bike. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/23/11 at 18:21:38 Here's a shot of the color test. The dark sample is still not dark enough (the other sample was just for comparison). After he had wet sanded and buffed the clear coat, the pearl was too reflective. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/26407d2a.jpg It's a gorgeous color, just not the one I'm hoping for. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by splash07 on 04/23/11 at 20:42:15 Looks perfect to me. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by verslagen1 on 04/23/11 at 20:45:11 don't like them? I'll trade ya for some black ones. ;D |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/24/11 at 09:21:27 Along with the other Ryca mods, I'll be replacing the horn with one that honks instead beeps, and relocating it—probably under the tail piece. That means removing the stock horn mount. Man, Suzuki made sure that thing wouldn't vibrate off. I squirted the bolts with WD40 and pounded and pounded and pounded on them with and impact driver. This is with the frame stripped and sitting on its side on a concrete floor. One bolt finally loosened, but the other was dug in for the duration. I finally broke it free by hitting the bracket sideways. A lot of work for such a minor part. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by ralfyguy on 04/24/11 at 19:17:25 What horn are you gonna use? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/25/11 at 06:10:22 A Fiamm Freeway Blaster. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/3c92599c.jpg If there were more room on the bike, I'd do dual high-low horns, like on my other bike. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by ralfyguy on 04/25/11 at 09:19:30 Is the wiring strong enough for that? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/25/11 at 10:09:19 Should be. It has been on my other bikes, and I think I've seen photos of LS650s with them. They usually come with a relay so you can power them straight from the battery, but I've also just plugged the stock wires onto them. Besides, it's not like the horn is on for long periods of time, like auxiliary lights, grip warmers and such -- unless you live in a place where everyone honks all the time. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by RidgeRunner13 on 04/25/11 at 16:51:11 It'll work. I have one mounted to the stock horn bracket. 8-) |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by wheelchairstuntn on 04/26/11 at 12:58:46 hey man-ive been following your ryca build and the bike is looking good. im doing one myself but im about five weeks behind you on the ryca production line. just wondering how you feel about getting rid of the horn completely? i was just down at the ryca shop this weekend and heard the bike running in person...it sounds amazing and its pretty loud. ive always thought its better and safer to have pipes that can be heard compared to what a horn can do. and removing the horn gives the bike a streamlined look. good luck on the build! looking forward to seeing it completed! |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by EJID on 04/26/11 at 13:37:36 7C636E6E6768636A6279787F7E657F650B0 wrote:
If you're Ryca is going to be ridden on the streets, then I would check with your local DMV about not putting on a horn, it's required in this neck of the woods 8-) |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/26/11 at 13:45:23 I don't buy the loud pipes save lives thing. If that were true, Harleys and sportbikes with bulldogged cans would never get hit. And there's no telling how many riders with loud pipes were hit on purpose because their loud pipes annoyed the crap out of someone. My other bike has a fairly loud pipe, but that didn't stop a guy right next to me from trying to merge into my lane. My dual horns got his attention, though. One of the horns is mounted inside the tail section and the other is under the swingarm pivot. Still very loud. I think a good horn can still be tucked into the Ryca tail, where it will be just as loud as if it were a few feet forward in the stock position. The stock horn might fit behind the side covers. I think a horn could also mount on top of the transmission when using the Ryca parts. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by RpNSht on 04/26/11 at 15:39:39 good point. i think it could get tucked in the rear cowling easily. did you receive your parts yet? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/26/11 at 15:51:09 All I know is the UPS tracking thing says the parts left California Saturday. UPDATE: UPS now says it will arrive by end of day tomorrow. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 04/28/11 at 04:20:04 motobuddha, those parts arrive yet? Its imperative that you post pics right away! |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/28/11 at 04:42:39 The unpacking ceremony will be carried live on CNN. But mine are coming unpainted, so it will be a little disappointing. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 04/28/11 at 04:47:32 you better hope the royal wedding doesn't overshadow it too much! |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by topgunz1 on 04/28/11 at 10:55:10 Marriage is the leading cause of divorce, I'd rather see some Ryca goodness! |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/28/11 at 15:11:41 Oh, look what's outside. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/77ad92b3.jpg It's the World's Happiest UPS Guy. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/991efc9e.jpg Hmmmm, what could it be? (As if I don't know.) http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/7f9eacd1.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/24cb862c.jpg Why it's my tank. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/be986d63.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/b94bda74.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/b28017a7.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/f93adf96.jpg And in the other box we have the seat and tail. Nice hand-laid fiberglass. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/bcb65dfb.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/e7b2a634.jpg http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/dfb96e4c.jpg And side covers. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/04e36435.jpg But wait, there's more in the box! http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk182/motobuddha/a7289ff0.jpg This is a classic case of "under-promise and over-deliver." They told me they were only sending the body parts. Cool. :D :D :D :D :D :D I guess I'm spending the weekend with some rough assembly prior to powdercoating. The trick will be wrestling the engine back into the frame so I can see what sort of problems a chain drive conversion will cause. :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) : |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by EJID on 04/28/11 at 15:24:12 Looks like you're BACK IN BUSINESS!!! ;D |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by splash07 on 04/28/11 at 16:10:00 I am expecting progress pics ASAP |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 04/28/11 at 16:17:00 sweet! |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by crackmonkey on 04/28/11 at 18:19:23 its 3 hours later.... progress???? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/29/11 at 05:19:34 Yeah, everything was moved inside and the packaging was put away. ;D |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by T2 on 04/29/11 at 07:59:20 Are you going to assemble for fit, then paint and reassemble - or are you going to be real brave and paint before assembling? |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/29/11 at 08:30:27 I need to preassemble things enough to see if I need to do and cutting and/or welding to make the chain conversion work. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by sbaugz on 04/29/11 at 10:25:07 4F5E494942090E0A3B0 wrote:
I was thinking the same thing. RYCA offered to send my body parts out now but I am not really sure that will help at all because I want to pre-assemble, pre-drill, and mount everything prior to paint. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/29/11 at 10:57:57 I just got back from dropping off some of the parts at the powdercoater -- battery box, seat plate, taillight bracket and gauge brackets. They won't need any modification and will just be semi-gloss black. Others are going to be the frame color, which all I know for sure is it won't be black. I always have a hard time deciding on color. So many choices. |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by RpNSht on 04/29/11 at 11:54:04 ah! when you get to it can you post some photos of the chain conversion mods to the rear sets? im running a chain right now too and really dont want to go back to a belt. thanks! |
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Title: Re: The Project: Phase 2 Post by MotoBuddha on 04/29/11 at 12:53:48 Not that I have parts and am moving on to the actual build, I'll start a new thread. |
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