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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Adding fog lights /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1291159232 Message started by feelinjunky on 11/30/10 at 15:20:32 |
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Title: Adding fog lights Post by feelinjunky on 11/30/10 at 15:20:32 Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew the maximum output amperage of our generator. The fuse is 20A, but that's probably nowhere near the max. I was wondering how much headroom we have to see if I can add a set of fog lights on my engine guard bar. I have a 55watt HID headlight and would be adding 2 55watt HID fog lights/driving lights on a separate, relayed, fused circuit. Thanks. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by Lupo on 11/30/10 at 19:02:24 55 watt HIDs? Are you sure they're not halogen? Just wondering because HID is generally low wattage. As to the charging system, it is very weak and some on this forum have said they had problems with duel 55s. So far the numbers seem to be 210 watt/10.27 amp.@ 5,000 rpm. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by bill67 on 11/30/10 at 19:11:26 My Suzuki 1500 has the driving lights from Suzuki and they are 35 watts and most likely its has a bigger charging system than the S40. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by verslagen1 on 11/30/10 at 19:17:22 all the hid's I know are 35 watt and a hell of a lot brighter than a couple of 55 watt halogen's. Doubt that you'll see them when they are on. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by bill67 on 11/30/10 at 19:24:00 I had one bike years ago I don't remember which on,But it had the headlight switch I could put it between bright and dim and both would be on. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by feelinjunky on 11/30/10 at 19:49:36 2F3228272233440 wrote:
Yes. They are 55watt HIDs. 35watt hids are a little brighter than stock, but 55s are the way to go imo. They are the brightest headlights available. PERIOD. 5000 lumens per bulb. For comparison, a 55watt halogen is 1500 lumens TOPS and a 35watt HID is about 2800 lumens per bulb. Of course, this depends on color temperature, ambient temperature, ballasts, ignitor quality etc. Are you sure 210 watts is the MAXIMUM output? I looked in the manual and added up all the wattage of all out lights now and it came out to be relatively close to this figure. 184 watts to be exact. 184 watts plus wattage for spark plug. Seems a little close.... I know for a fact that 10.27 amp can't be the maximum because 14 volts * 10.27 = 144watts, a little too low... EDIT: I know where you got 10.27A from. All normal lights plus one set of turn signals adds up to 142 watts. 142watts / 14 volts = 10.27 A It's the max wattage for a Savage without hazard lights, as in, the wattage when added straight down from the owner's manual. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by Oldfeller on 11/30/10 at 21:14:12 Plus, this has been tried before -- didn't work until the bulbs were replaced with much lower wattage bulbs. Point at the end of that one was if you wanted more light, go Sylvania halogen single bulb If you want yellow light, go Piaa yellow halogen single bulb If you just want to mess around, feel free But you have an amp ceiling that is gonna feel mighty cramped and will only show itself when you can't get the bike to crank when you are stuck off some gawdawful place where you don't wanna be stuck at. But you will figure that out all by yourself ...... :-? |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by verslagen1 on 11/30/10 at 21:15:04 dam, I thought it was the sun that rose a little early this morning, but it was you. :o Now I really don't see the point of 55 watt halogen fog lights Plus, that HID light is probably kicking up a lot of glare. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by feelinjunky on 11/30/10 at 21:48:56 4261696B686161687F0D0 wrote:
I'll buy that. I'm probably gonna wind up with a 35watt headlight and 35 watt fogs, all hids...and Hids stomp all over halogens when it comes to brightness. If you want light, 55watt HIDs are the way to go. 3000K will get you the yellow light, but I don't think it looks good imo. The sylvania nightbreaker, brightest 55watt halogen, is 1500 lumens +/- 100 lumens according to their datasheet. Best direct swap if you ask me. Hids require a bit more wiring and aren't as simple as replacing a bulb. Yea, there's a little glare, but I need to see. I wear glasses as it is, and with more and more cars having hids, it's getting tougher to see with those bright lights coming toward you on the road... |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by thumperclone on 11/30/10 at 22:43:17 had a pair of 35 W mr 11 white driving lights from jc whitless.. draw on the system was too much with the 3 amp(36watt) draw from my sound system.. replaced the bulbs with some leds that fit and have no issues.. the 35 w lamps didnt do much cept draw from the charging system.. the leds are a blue er color and are more apparent to the on coming cagers than the halogens.. my want was to be more visual to those turning left across my path..not lite up the road..i did that with a sylvania H4 bulb. my led volt meter tells me im good to go at 1k rpm.. BUT at wot am discharging a bit... |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by thumperclone on 11/30/10 at 22:51:26 the most mc/cager accidents are when THEY turn left in front of you.. what ever you can do to make yourself STAND out (specially in day lite) the better.. thats why i went with a blue tone led..not a normal pattern with the stock yellow front lites and the over stock h4.. second most mc recks is from the rear.. and if i could i would post pics of all the mods ive done back there... |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by feelinjunky on 12/01/10 at 09:25:50 4A564B534E5B4C5D5251505B3E0 wrote:
Well the draw from your sound system depends on volume. At low volume, it's probably only a couple of watts. But more importantly, I have a question: Your 55watt headlight and two 35 watt driving lights was too much for your electrical system?? |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by Routy on 12/01/10 at 10:16:47 It wouldn't surprise me,....it not like you're running 5,000 R's all the time @ 210 watts. How much is it doing at 1500 to 2000, and even 1000 to 1200 at signal lites ? A 30 amp charging system mite be nice,.......if we're willing to give up a couple HP for it. In theroy 1 hp will make 62 amps, but in reality, figuring the ineffecientcy of everything, and from much experience, it don't come close to that. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by feelinjunky on 12/01/10 at 18:18:45 6C6379627E786B69616F780A0 wrote:
That's true. I wish we could upgrade our generators. I've been looking online and can't seem to find much... The ONLY other option would be to replace ALL the lights with leds, expept for the headlight. the 21watt brake light would be replaced with a 5 watt led (probably a brighter light too), the 21 watt turn signals, with 3 watt LEDs. And the miscellaneous 3watt lights (4 or 5 I believe) with 0.5 watt leds. It adds up. I did the math and it saves around the same amount of power that the two 35 watt fogs will draw. There go my 55 watt fogs.... :( But it's better than none at all :) |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by verslagen1 on 12/01/10 at 18:23:38 There was talk of an upgraded stator pack last year. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by thumperclone on 12/01/10 at 19:39:49 525151585D5A5E415A5F4D340 wrote:
Well the draw from your sound system depends on volume. At low volume, it's probably only a couple of watts. But more importantly, I have a question: Your 55watt headlight and two 35 watt driving lights was too much for your electrical system??[/quote] i have an led voltmeter on the master cyl 2 green lights is best charge was only getting one with the 35wtters and the amp which is 3 anps = 36 watts..with the leds no prob.. |
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Title: Re: Mini-battery install Post by verslagen1 on 11/30/10 at 20:53:32 have you thought about the headlight cutout relay mod? or just adding a switch to turn it off while cranking? |
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Title: Re: Mini-battery install Post by Oldfeller on 12/01/10 at 08:58:30 And another thought it --- is your decompression solenoid properly adjusted? Question: there is a timer on the decomp solenoid -- what happens on a slow stubborn crank job if it goes past the timer period? |
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Title: Re: Mini-battery install Post by feelinjunky on 12/01/10 at 09:36:54 160512130C0107050E51600 wrote:
I did that when I installed my 55watt HID light. Problem with HIDs is that they draw 2x their rated power for the first few seconds when they are initially turned on. I have a switch where the hazard switch would normally be on a newer version of our bikes. On a cold a** day, it's still difficult to start, never on one or two tries. There's a timer on the starting system? I had no idea. All I know is that on a cold day, from dead cold start, she cranks slower than normal, speeds up cranking only a little, regardless of choke position (1/2, 3/4, full), and continues cranking if I keep it up for ~5 seconds. If I get lucky, it'll catch on the 4th or 5th try and I have to get even luckier to keep her running... Edit: idk if this helps, but if I keep my hand on the button to start her up, she'll crank forever until I let go. Idk if it's supposed to stop. Still trying to figure out what the timer is for.. |
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Title: Re: Mini-battery install Post by verslagen1 on 12/01/10 at 11:38:56 486B6361626B6B6275070 wrote:
Answer: The timer releases the decomp solenoid after about a half second regardless of engine speed. When starting, my tack says 300 rpm, that's 5 rev's per second. So normally the decomp releases after 2 and a half cycles. You really only need to release the 1st compression stroke to get it to a speed where it won't stop on compression. I've noticed that if it's takes a long time for it to start, that if you loosen the decomp adjustment it will start faster. Of course if it stalls on you, it needs to be a little tighter. Also, my '96 with stock jetting (145) would need a little twist of the throttle to start. Couldn't do that with the '88 (155) went down one jet size (152) and now I can. Also the '88 hates to be started with any 'choke' even on a cold morning. |
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Title: Re: Mini-battery install Post by feelinjunky on 12/01/10 at 18:51:19 273423223D3036343F60510 wrote:
Thanks for the info. Interesting, I've gotta look into this, but I have a few other projects lined up before this one...valve adjustment, hard krome, intake, rejet, fog lights...yea...one thing at a time. I'll do the adjusting when it gets cold. Right now, starting is pretty good. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by verslagen1 on 12/04/10 at 12:21:26 There's a replacement stator available up in canada, rmstator on fleabay. I'd give them a call about the spec's for our stator and if a high power version exists. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by feelinjunky on 12/04/10 at 13:33:44 7F6C7B7A65686E6C6738090 wrote:
I'll look into that and post results here. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by greenmonster on 12/04/10 at 22:04:35 http://www.rmstator.com/en/motorcycles/suzuki/s_40/stator/stator_for__s_40_/2005-2007/3811.htm There's the link for those who are interested. these are the guys that I picked up my voltage regulator from. Super nice to deal with. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by feelinjunky on 12/05/10 at 04:26:19 51445353585B595845425344360 wrote:
Says 20% more output that OE, so 252 watts, as opposed to 210 watts. Not bat, but price is a little steep. The cost of saving 42 watts by replacing all lights with leds is less than half the price of that, so not worth it imho. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by greenmonster on 12/05/10 at 09:23:05 True enough. However, I'm going to have to replace my stator sooner or later so I figure I may as well pick up the extra 20%. Unless someone can show me a substantially cheaper one somewhere. In Canada rmstator will ship for free so that takes a slice off the total cost for me. I'm thinking that with the extra juice and swapping lights to lower the draw I may have enough power to do some fun stuff with it. |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by einheit13 on 12/05/10 at 11:48:35 Use a relay with the lights and add a capacitor to the charging system, it will help with a low amp alternator. And the fuse size has nothing to do with the charging system out put....its to keep you from frying the wires. Just like in your house, 200 amps of power, but typically a 250-300 amp panel. Some receptionist are rated for 15 amps, some up top 40 amps. You never wanna over heat the wires. Relays, capacitors, heavier gauge wires always help the charging system. 18ga wires will work fine as battery cables, but they won't last long and won't carry much current as demand builds....... |
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Title: Re: Adding fog lights Post by verslagen1 on 12/05/10 at 12:44:24 plugging into a receptionist is normally considered sexual harassment. 8-) |
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