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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Battery? /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1287167340 Message started by verslagen1 on 10/15/10 at 11:28:58 |
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Title: Battery? Post by verslagen1 on 10/15/10 at 11:28:58 How can you tell when it's time to replace it? When turning on the blinkers causes it to miss in time with the lights. ;D yep, dun used all them electrons |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Routy on 10/15/10 at 12:18:41 If I had to answer that, my guess would be when it no longer does the job that you want it to do. We're probably all different. If you didn't have access to ac power to connect a minder/tender to it, and did not ride often, you need a "good battery" Me,....?....if I don't ride for a few days, I connect a tender, so I wouldn't even know how good the battery is,.....except I do know mine was weak 1 1/2 yrs ago. But doing the way I do, it still serves me fine. |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by bill67 on 10/15/10 at 12:29:01 When I don't ride for 4 months in the winter I started it up in the spring and go for a ride and the motorcycle charges the battery. |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Routy on 10/15/10 at 12:39:14 Bill, You must have one of those "good batteries" I was talking about. Mine won't do that,....and sounds like Versl's won't either. |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by bill67 on 10/15/10 at 13:07:03 I just bought a new battery,I bought a new 2006 in late august of 2007,So the battery had sat for a while.I didn't ride for 2 days and it was shot about a month ago,Up till then it was strong,I think I must have left the parking light on,cause the lights or nothing came on. And it wouldn't take a charge. |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by verslagen1 on 10/15/10 at 13:52:58 this was a battery that came on the wrecked bike. So I had no idea how old it was or what. I figured I'd use it till it was dead. Lasted year and a half. Last couple of months had to trickle it once a week. |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Boofer on 10/15/10 at 18:35:20 My 2001 came with a flat Yuasa. No lights. I charged it the next day for about an hour and rode it for a few weeks or months, don't remember. Left the switch on and flattened it completely. Charged it again. That was summer 2009. A little dragging and wouldn't crank after being off it for 2 weeks. Used starting fluid and it fired up. I know I have been really lucky. I guess I'll go back to Yuasa. I'm going to hook up the trickle charger I bought last year just to help it out this winter. |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Digger on 10/22/10 at 21:06:40 52415657484543414A15240 wrote:
The gold standard battery test available to the common man remains the load test. Here is a load tester that will not break the bank: Load Tester (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91129) Wait for a sale and save 10-20 bucks. Ive had one for a while and have used it several times. It rox! |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Routy on 10/23/10 at 05:20:28 Agreed,......if you have only 1 pc of test equipment, it should probably be a 12v test lite. But if you have 2, the 2nd should be the cheaper 50 amp load tester, because it will test the batteries in bikes, all your cars and trucks, and even those little jump starters,.......even my 12v lawn mower. It make a good volt meter for checking charging systems. And if you want a better one, w/ much higher adjustable amperage,....along w/ an ammeter, get the one Digger posted above ! |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Oldfeller on 10/23/10 at 05:39:50 Or, you can charge it or jump it to get it started then volt/ohm test the charging voltage on the bike with the old battery in place just to see if your regulator/rectifier is actually working correctly, and if it tests good on charging voltage then simply pop the bucks for a replacement battery as it is SAME COST OR CHEAPER than that big arsed load tester. (if you pick the new battery up at Wal Mart that is) One has to question, since Bill never uses any oil, never has any maintenance problem of any type with his bike and his battery has never died nor needed charging -- perhaps it is because he simply hasn't ridden his bike since the turn of the century? ::) |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by bill67 on 10/23/10 at 06:08:52 You don't need a voltage tester a battery charger tells you if the battery is good are not. |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by bill67 on 10/23/10 at 06:13:17 1231393B383131382F5D0 wrote:
My secret use the best motorcycle oil(Klotz)Don't over work the battery with a tender.I drive 4.5 miles a day if its not raining and the temperature is between 70 and 80. |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Routy on 10/23/10 at 06:25:28 Quote: I drive 4.5 miles a day (cut) ------------------------------------------------ Bill, I drive quite a bit too, but inquiring minds wonder if you ever ride :o |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by bill67 on 10/23/10 at 07:19:49 I have 2 bikes I ride, Suzuki 1500LC and the little S40,I ride about 3000 miles a year now that I'm 71,When my wife road it was 8000 in the 6 months of riding time here in Wisconsin,We never road to work and I worked 6 days a week so that was nights and Sundays and Holiday weekends.In the winter we put on appox. 3000 miles on snowmobiles If thats not riding I don't ride.To me riding to work on the same road every day is not really enjoyable riding. |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/23/10 at 08:42:15 To me riding to work on the same road every day is not really enjoyable riding. IMO, riding to work is just a way to try to make going to work more fun.Or less painful, maybe? |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by verslagen1 on 10/23/10 at 09:08:25 Quote:
3E2127203D3A0B3B0B33212D66540 wrote:
Barring accidents... the worst day riding is better then the best day driving. |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Digger on 10/23/10 at 20:39:25 656A706B77716260686671030 wrote:
Hi Rout, I looked at those 50 amp load testers, but questioned their utility. The load test procedures I've seen say you should apply a load equal to 1/2 the battery's spec CCA figure for 15 sec, while continuously measuring the battery's voltage. As the battery I currently have in my Savage (a mx-free Interstate) is rated at 190 CCA, you'd need to load test it at 95 amps.....something the 50 amp tester is unable to do. Or, at least I thought. How would you go about doing a load test on a 190 CCA battery using a 50 amp load tester? Curious. |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Digger on 10/23/10 at 20:45:41 17343C3E3D34343D2A580 wrote:
Old, One reason I like load testing my batteries is because I've found that a properly run load test will implicate a bad battery BEFORE I can detect that it is going bad. I guess this is because all of my bikes start quickly enough so as not to stress their batteries. I like to load test a battery before I go on a long trip. Then, I'm reasonably certain that the battery won't crap out on me 2000 miles from home. BTDT! |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Routy on 10/24/10 at 06:23:19 Digger Quote: How would you go about doing a load test on a 190 CCA battery using a 50 amp load tester? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- About the same way as using a 100 amp, except hold it for 30 seconds instead of 15, and use a 10.5 min voltage instead of 9.5. This has never failed to find a bad battery. If it passes a 50 amp test at double time, you can bet it will pass 100 amp at 1/2 the time. If not, I have never found the time. The advantage of a 50 amp (price?) is that "one fits all".... it can also be more safely used on smaller batteries that don't have.....and are not designed to put out hi CC amps, such as smaller bikes, and like my 12/24 volt mower, and my battery powered P/A music amplifiers. |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Digger on 10/24/10 at 20:58:17 6C6379627E786B69616F780A0 wrote:
Rout, Good stuff. Is the 10.5 volts good for all temps? The reason I ask is that I've sometimes had to do load tests when the battery case temps were pretty low, like in the low 30's F. Also, is there a reference for the modified load testing technique so's I could bone up on it a little? Sounds as if it might be a little easier on the battery than the standard load test. TIA! |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Lupo on 10/25/10 at 00:49:13 Battery Guide Motorcycle Battery Maintenace Tips to keep your motorcycle at peak condition. Motorcycle maintenance is more than doing maintenance on your motorcycle because you have to do it now or it is time to do it right away. On going general maintenance will keep your motorcycle in great condition with little or no unpleasant surprises on the road. Typical Motorcycle Battery Typical Motorcycle Battery Motorcycle Battery Maintenance Tip: There are dozens of parts on a motorcycle that could be checked on a regular basis and there is nothing wrong with check all those parts. But try to slim the list down to the most important items so you still have time to ride. The Battery THE BASICS First things first. A 12-volt battery is not a 12-volt battery. Twelve volts is just a nominal, convenient term used to distinguish one battery from another. A fully-charged 12-volt battery, allowed to "rest" for a few hours (or days) with no load being drawn from it (or charge going to it), will balance out its charge and measure about 12.6 volts between terminals. When a battery reads only 12 volts under the above conditions, it's almost fully depleted. Actually, if a battery's resting voltage is only 12.0 to 12.1 it means only 20 to 25% of its useful energy remains. It's either a goner or it has been deep cycled, and a battery can only be deep-cycled a limited number of times before it is indeed dead. 12-volt batteries supply useful energy only through a limited range -- from over 14 volts (when fully charged and unrested) down to 10.5 volts in use/under load (when lights dim, your motorcycle is hard to start). No 12-volt battery will remain at over 14 volts for more than seconds unless it's being charged. The lowest limit is 10.5 volts (used in testing) and obviously unsatisfactory in practical use. This is the full page. Very good info.http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/battery.htm |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Routy on 10/25/10 at 05:14:04 Dig, I wouldn't have the foggiest idea what a batt test would show at 32 degrees, because I be huggin a heater somewhere or in the coffee shop telling bike/fish lies ! ;D We all know cold temps make a difference,....but I never get that tech-ie about stuff. Most all the general info I give here comes from my many years in automotive shops, and a few years in a commercial mower shop, where we tested and sold lots of batteries. Being as you mentioned it, I never did like heavy-load testing a battery, or loading it much more than the starter draws, it just don't seem necessary,.....or good for a battery. But over the years we probably all develope our own ideas from our own experience, and that doesn't always agree w/ the "websites supposedly Gospel" My main battery motto,........ Keep it as fully charged as possible at all times, and it will last an unbelieable long length of time. And that means when its not being used often, its on a float voltage of 13.4 max in warm weather, and 13.8-14.0 in cold weather. 123F31313324560 wrote:
Rout, Good stuff. Is the 10.5 volts good for all temps? The reason I ask is that I've sometimes had to do load tests when the battery case temps were pretty low, like in the low 30's F. Also, is there a reference for the modified load testing technique so's I could bone up on it a little? Sounds as if it might be a little easier on the battery than the standard load test. TIA![/quote] |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by Boofer on 10/25/10 at 21:04:40 48656B6B697E0C0 wrote:
Cold Cranking Amps is the measure of a new battery fully charged producing no less than 7.2 volts at 0 degrees F for 30 seconds under load. Cranking amps are tested the same way at 32 degrees F. A battery less than 40 degrees F loses about 30% of its power, but it usually has enough energy to crank engines in good tune with a working choke or fuel injection. Those of us who remember 50s era vehicles with 6 volt systems probably remember the "ritual" for cranking their vehicles in cold weather. I remember taking batteries inside on cold nights. We got it good nowadays. Boofer |
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Title: Re: Battery? Post by bill67 on 10/26/10 at 03:00:47 The trick in cold weather is to turn on the ignition for 30 seconds then off for 30 seconds then start it,that first turn on for 30 seconds warms up the battery. |
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