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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> L130 bolt - stripped /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1283902598 Message started by weracerc on 09/07/10 at 16:36:38 |
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Title: L130 bolt - stripped Post by weracerc on 09/07/10 at 16:36:38 the threads in the head/block etc for the L130 bolt are stripped - is there enough extra threads in the head to do the longer bolt deal to replace this L130? what bolt size should i get to replace it? perhaps a honda 6x140?.......this bolt is a 6x130 according to cheapcycleparts.com http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/HeadPattern01web.jpg the bolt that goes in the number 13 hole in this picture http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/Digger109/LS650/HeadCoverBoltTorqueOrder-4E.jpg |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by weracerc on 09/08/10 at 10:45:39 ordered a 135mm and 140mm honda bolts and a new washer/gasket for the bolt from cheapcycleparts.com - will advise how this goes once the parts get here. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by Serowbot on 09/08/10 at 11:37:26 I wouldn't try to torque that to speck with only 5mm of thread... |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by weracerc on 09/08/10 at 11:57:07 hoping the 140 will work....once i get the 130 out i am going to find out how deep the hole is and maybe able to determine if a +140 will work if so i will order a 145......kind of doubt there would be that much extra threads to work with though...if anyone else has skinned this cat a different way please let me know. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by circletree on 09/09/10 at 15:23:11 i am assuming that it is in the rocker cover...get a helicoil set for the 6mm by whichever thread it is 1.0, or 1.25. easy helicoil job. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by Chief Gunner on 09/10/10 at 03:39:26 I believe I stripped out the same one. At the time I didn't know about extra threads in the bottom. I'm about 6000 miles away from my bike so working off memory here. I didn't want to pull the head and jug off to try and helicoil it. I took a real short bolt and JB Welded it to cover the hole at the top since that one is an oil passage. Then I drilled a hole through two cooling fins, one on the head cover and one on the head and threw a nut and bolt on it to seal the top cover. No leaks... Not the most cosmetic repair, but after the first couple of months even I didn't notice it. If I ever have a reason to pull the engine apart that far I can still fix it and just pop the short bolt out of the top and fill the holes in the cooling fin like it never happened. Which ever way you go, good luck!! -Gunner |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by weracerc on 09/10/10 at 05:54:44 that sounds interesting Gunner.....i think that would be way easier than my next trick if the longer bolt deal does not work. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by ocdave on 01/02/11 at 12:19:25 I have run into the same problem (stripped L130 Bolt) putting my project savage back together. I didn't see anything further on researching this old thread. Any luck with replacing it with a 140 bolt? |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by ralfyguy on 01/02/11 at 16:25:13 With a 130 bolt in that hole, there's only about 2-3mm left until it bottoms out. A 140 won't fit. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by MotoBuddha on 01/02/11 at 17:28:49 Okay, so I'm not alone with this problem. I was putting the head cover back in place temporarily. I did everything finger tight, then used the wrench to turn the bolts about 1/8 of a turn, just to snug them a little. That bolt gave way at about 1/16 of a turn. Aw man! |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by verslagen1 on 01/02/11 at 17:43:21 Sometimes putting in a new bolt will fix the issue. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by MotoBuddha on 01/02/11 at 17:52:50 Hmmmmm, I wonder if there's a non-metric bolt that's a skosh thicker. I suck at converting between fractions of an inch and millimeters. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by verslagen1 on 01/02/11 at 17:55:38 You could do that, but it's pretty darn micky mouse. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by Ed L. on 01/02/11 at 18:57:24 Here's something that might work. Clean the threads real well on the bolt and wrap one layer of thin teflon tape around the bolt working the teflon tape into the threads as far in as you can get it. You will need to cover the entire blt with the teflon tape to protect it from the J B Weld. Spray out the stripped bolt hole with carb cleaner and letdry, getting the hole as clean as possible. Mix up some JB weld and slop it into the stripped bolt hole or cover the bolt with it. Jam the bolt covered with the teflon tape into the hole and gently twist it in. The teflon tape will prevent the epoxy from glueing the bolt into the hole. Let the J B weld set up hard and then unscrew the bolt and pull out the tape. If the teflon tape does it's job you will have new JB weld threads cast into the bolt hole. I don't know how much torque the repair would take but I've had success using this on real pain in the butt repairs. Just make sure you screw the bolt down as far as it can go so you won't fill the bottom of the bolt hole with epoxy and loose whatever good threads are left. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by ralfyguy on 01/02/11 at 20:22:09 15372C371A2D3C3C3039580 wrote:
1/4" bolt is 6.35mm. M6 is 6mm. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by MotoBuddha on 01/03/11 at 05:09:09 72617677686563616A35040 wrote:
But if one were to properly re-tap the hole... I suggested a non-metric size (turns out to be 1/4") because I 've never seen a 7mm bolt. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by ralfyguy on 01/03/11 at 06:07:03 There is such thing as a M7 bolt. It's just hard to find. Standard threads are more coarse then metric. In this case I would try the 1/4" bolt method, but either use a tap that can reach that far, or use the bolt and modify it like a tap. I bet this works if you do it right. It's not elegant, but will do the job. I consider the helicoil method more professional, but harder to accomplish. The problem is the depth of the hole. Helicoiling that deep is difficult. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by MotoBuddha on 01/03/11 at 06:45:06 Another approach: tap the hole for M7 or M8, then screw in a stud. http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-studs/=afh4uy You could top it with an acorn nut. http://www.mcmaster.com/#acorn-nuts/=afh65k |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by ralfyguy on 01/03/11 at 07:35:50 That would work too. But the problem with all those solutions is to get a tap down deep in that hole. I'm not sure if they make taps that long. An extension would be difficult also, since it would have to be really thin walled to fit in the hole. Even if you find a tap that long, it will be extremely fragile, since usually the hole thing is hardened, and boy if that breaks off half way down the hole, you gonna have a lot more trouble. A modified bolt is softer and flexes more. It won't break off as easy. A tap that long, with a thin hardened shaft shears off really easy. That is one stupid design with thin bolts that long, screwed into aluminum, and frequently scheduled to be removed and assembled again. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by MotoBuddha on 01/03/11 at 07:50:29 That bolt threads into the cylinder and only slides through the head and head cover. So we're talking about tapping only the 15mm or so in the cylinder -- with the head removed, of course. I just removed that bolt and guess what came out with it -- helicoil. So this was buggered up while the previous owner had it. Helicoil is obviously only a temporary fix. "That is one stupid design with thin bolts that long, screwed into aluminum, and frequently scheduled to be removed and assembled again." That's why a long stud might make more sense. And it's easier to get studs that long than 130mm bolts. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by Bubba on 01/03/11 at 08:13:20 Both my 125 and 130 were stripped on the bike I'm working on. I tried most of the fixes suggested here to try and avoid pulling the head off. After it became apparent that I was beating a dead horse I pulled the head off and bought a 6mm X 1 helicoil kit on amazon for 27 bucks. I didn't even have to drill out the 2 holes since the block was so soft. Just used some grease on the tap so that the chips would stick to it as I tapped both of them out. Thought about putting 2 stacked helicoils in but opted for just the one. Of course, my engine was out so it made it somewhat easier except for having to pull the cam and the associated stuff. Anyway, I've yet to button everything back up since I ordered a gasket kit for it. Once you pull the head the advice I've got from here is to replace that head gasket so that's what I'm doing... Once everything is back in place I'm pretty sure those heli's will hold. I tested them w/o the cover on and they were able to torque above spec and then I backed them out no problem... |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by verslagen1 on 01/03/11 at 08:24:00 I'd do the rest if you got the coils. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by Bubba on 01/03/11 at 08:51:45 Thought about it but this is the bike I'm fixing up to sell. I know the coils are pretty cheap but really want to just get her running. Besides ,if I do the others I may botch one and then I'd be kicking myself for going overboard... This bike is just to see if I can get in there and fix some problems. So far I'm having fun and not too worried about being perfect but I do want it to be in decent shape for whoever buys it. If/When I pull the jug on my good bike maybe I'll use them for that. I was thinking that after I sell it I'd use the profit to possibly mod out my primary bike...maybe new cam, bore and piston???? Or just use the dough to bob it??? Or pay bills...but that's not much fun... |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by weracerc on 01/04/11 at 06:38:11 well that teflon tape and jb weld fix sounds interesting - tapping or helicoiling a 130mm deep hole sounds frustrating and potentially hazardous the health of the bike....i took the mickey mouse way out after being frustrated with lock-tite, silicon, gasket sealer, etc - I did use the old plug the freakin hole and drill and bolt the cover the fin method after the 4th try at using the exisaitng 130mm bolts and various non-mickey mouse fixes - only to get a leak out of the hole after about 10 days of riding......the plug has been in the hole for 2 weeks now ridden 5 times no leaks...we'll see....I am not enough of a mechanic to remove the engine and head and fix the threaded hole. |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by ocdave on 01/04/11 at 12:47:47 514255544B4640424916270 wrote:
I've got a new 130 bolt on the way. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I don't want to tear this thing down again! >:( How difficult will it be to access this bolt once I get the engine back in the bike? |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by weracerc on 01/04/11 at 13:26:21 getting to the bolt not so bad getting to the bolt threads - tear it down again; to get to the bolt - seat off, tank off, right chrome trim cover off, bolt is right there on the right rear corner of the head cover.......the threads are 130mm (5.11 inches) down that hole. >:( |
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Title: Re: L130 bolt - stripped Post by verslagen1 on 01/04/11 at 13:42:40 There's only one (ok 2 for those of you that need the captive bolt for the glory covers) that can't be replaced once the engine is in place, the one dead center of the head cover. Your's is on the perimeter. easy to change out. don't forget the sealing washer. |
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