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Message started by Jack_650 on 07/18/10 at 20:49:52

Title: Savage electrical
Post by Jack_650 on 07/18/10 at 20:49:52

Okay. It's official. Me and bike electrical things are not ever going to be friends. My little adventure with melting diodes has left be ride-less. I spliced in two 2 amp diodes from Rad-Shak and there was no more smoke roiling from under the tank. The bike started (very long cranking time) in neutral. Rolled it out of the garage and down to the street. Pulled in the clutch and listened to everything stop when it went into 1st gear.

I'm guessing that since the diode replacement made things run and not burn it might not have been my only problem. I think the diode and plug package might have just gotten too close the head and gotten hot enough to melt and short out since they seem to be doing their job now.

So, neutral switch issues?

Has anyone just taken all the wiring out and then re-wired for just the basics? What's needed to make the bike run and go down the street. Lights and such I can always figure out, but since my '65 Impala SS went away there's not been much vehicle electrical I've been able to get my mind around. In fact I just picked up an '81 diesel VW pickup so's I don't have as much wiring to think about and can get great mileage.

Help!

Jack

Title: Re: Savage electrical
Post by dasch on 07/19/10 at 04:36:11

I just did exactly that. Torn all up and routed my own. Bobbert did too, and few other guys I believe. Got rid of safety system too. Not safe, but I'm sure I'll survive ;-)

Search for "bobber wiring diagram", you'll find it there.

Title: Re: Savage electrical
Post by james may on 07/19/10 at 05:34:59

If runs in neutral and not in gear its the kickstand switch not the neutral switch. I'd just bypass the kickstand switch if it's broken.

Title: Re: Savage electrical
Post by Jack_650 on 07/19/10 at 18:06:36

It runs in neutral with the kickstand up or down. Quits when
I drop it into gear.

I saw the wiring diagram mentioned here and am not exactly
sure how I should implement it. But since I have nothing to
be lost . . . . Guess I'll go hunting for it again.

Jack

Title: Re: Savage electrical
Post by Serowbot on 07/19/10 at 18:24:35

When mine did that, it was the connector to the kickstand cut-out... under the seat...

Title: Re: Savage electrical
Post by james may on 07/19/10 at 19:05:09

Quote:

yup.. your bike thinks your kickstand is down if it's up or down.

Title: Re: Savage electrical
Post by ArielT on 07/19/10 at 19:49:05

Huh. Having ridden mine a little ways with the kickstand down, I can safely say I don't have one. Do all the Savages have the kickstand safety or just beyond a certain year?

Title: Re: Savage electrical
Post by verslagen1 on 07/19/10 at 19:50:35

all, yours must be disabled

Title: Re: Savage electrical
Post by Jack_650 on 07/19/10 at 21:37:15

What does the under seat kickstand connector look like? I've
moved so much stuff around what with the seat change and
tank change and . . .

I suppose if this works Serobot gets the free beer. If it doesn't
at least now ya'll know what's at stake for the winner.

Jack

Title: Re: Savage electrical
Post by verslagen1 on 07/19/10 at 21:43:36

'02 is a green 2 conductor water proofed connector, nothing else looks like it.

'88 also 2 conductor but looks like every other connector.

Title: Re: Savage electrical
Post by Jack_650 on 07/20/10 at 09:29:43

And of course mine is an '00. Newer may mean it's like
the two green and "special."

Jack

Title: Re: Savage electrical
Post by Charon on 07/20/10 at 09:45:28

According to the wiring diagrams in the Clymer manual, the '86 had a sidestand warning light. From '87 onward they used the safety to kill the engine if the sidestand is down with the bike in gear. Better to fix it properly than bypass it, because riding off with the sidestand down is a good way to get hurt.