|
SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Welding /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1274922484 Message started by Tanker2Biker on 05/26/10 at 18:08:03 |
|
Title: Welding Post by Tanker2Biker on 05/26/10 at 18:08:03 I will admit to being totally uninformed about the subject of welding, so I'm looking to the Vast, Unpaid Research department here for help.The one I am looking at is here: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200381950_200381950 Will this weld the things I might want to fabricate or repair? |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by groupus on 05/26/10 at 21:32:45 in a word, yes. that would be good for anything non-structural like license plate mounts, seat brackets, or other doohickeys. i have a little experience in welding, so ask someone else if that might be strong enough for use on the frame. also, keep in mind that any type weld could be weaker than bubble gum if you do it wrong. |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by John_D FSO on 05/27/10 at 00:13:35 It probably won't be at it's best with sheet metal, or any fairly thin stuff. It says it welds up to 3/8", or .375; that's fairly heavy stuff. If you're a good enough welder, it should handle frames ok, I don't think a bike frame is quite that thick. But I wouldn't weld a frame unless I was very experienced (I'm not! :D). If you're looking for something to weld sheet metal, a MIG will work better than an ARC, since you'll just want to do little spots at a time, to prevent warping as much. Just my $0.02. ;) |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by Tanker2Biker on 05/27/10 at 03:03:00 First off, thanks, the info helps. I'm not foolish enough to think I could try and do anything with the frame. I'm looking at thinks like seat brackets, highway bar supports, luggage rack, things like that. |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by aphico on 05/27/10 at 04:51:51 I've been novice welding for over 15 years now. Save up your money and get a MIG. there are small ones that run on 120v. I got a lincoln with all the stuff, (wire, tips, gloves, mask (not a helmet) for 240.00 and have been using it for everything. harborfrieght tools sells a nice little one for chelaper, but i don't know how good that one will work. I currently use the flux core wire, because i weld outside alot, but if you hook up the gas, co2/argon, the welds are much cleaner, You can make much smaller neater looking welds and with practice you'll get real prefessional results. theres a million tutorials on line, videos, and all the help you'll need. You'll be able to weld everything from thin body metal to car frames. believe me you won't be sorry. |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by Routy on 05/27/10 at 05:50:23 I am very experienced at stick (long ago) and mig welding now. And I've done some Tig welding also. Anymore, and IMO, stick welding is for outside if the wind is blowing, (flux core mig is good too) and where you need very long leads, like where you can't get a mig machine close enough. Now days, a Mig machine is the way to go, especially if you're inexperienced. Inside the shop I run only solid core w/ gas, because its cleaner than flux core. Ok, I'll get slammed for this,.... IMO only, I would not buy any welder that doesn't run on 220-240 volts, unless it was my 2nd machine. I have use every 115v machine out there, and every one is limited to 1/8 material and less,.....no matter what anyone tells you. But,.....if you are limited to 115v electric, they can get a 1/4" job done if you have experience, and maybe at least a propane torch to preheat the material before welding. Preheating heavier material is the same as using higher amps on a welding machine,.......it works very well. By the way, that is a good price on that stick welder. And one thing about a stick machine, you can always connect a dry tig gun, w/ argon gas, and do fine tig welding on mild steel and stainless. |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by 12Bravo on 05/27/10 at 07:02:40 I have to agree with Routy, get yourself a 220-240 volt welder. I weld with both arc and mig and prefer mig. Also you should look at what a welders duty cycle rating is. The higher the rating (and price) the better. I use solid core wire and gas for all my welding. With experience, you can weld everything from sheet metal to structural steel with a good mig setup. |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by kel30734 on 05/27/10 at 08:22:11 I prefer the J.B. weld method...... If that don't get it I take it to my nebiours house and he welds it for me..... ;) ;) ;) ;) Kel |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/27/10 at 08:53:18 If I was gonna weld a frame, Id want to put an interanl collar across the weld, so its not just a butt joint weld. Id also, If I had the choice of how it got cut, prefer a slash cut as opposed to a straight across cut, to increase the length of the weld. Maybe both are bad ideas, but Ive done a lot of gluing stuff & those ideas have worked for me in the past. |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by 1st2know on 05/27/10 at 09:07:17 I'm a permanent welding noob, I've learned a few things: - Duty cycle is very important - 10% duty cycle means you can weld for 1 minute, cool off for 9 minutes, 20% - weld for 2 minutes, cool for 8 minutes. 10% is a good number for occasional welding, but the equipment rated at 10% is crap(as 12bravo mentioned). - 90% of welding time is in setup - the actual welding time is very short. - The more you weld, the better you get at it. I collect scrap metal just to practice on. After about 8 year, my joints look almost non-crappy :-) - I can do non-structural welds with silver-oxide brazing - takes up less room in the garage (or motel room :-), and has a more predictable outcome. - Typically, an inexpensive home hobbyist welder can only weld hi-ten or cro-mo steel. Things like aluminum and stainless require more, specialized skills and equipment. - Don't weld galvanized steel. The zinc coating will make you ill. If you do, grind away the zinc coating, do it outside, and don't let the fumes get in your face. - Make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy. - and yeah, kel30734, with practice, a good 24 hour epoxy like JB weld can be used to fasten things to a motorcycle, but don't count on it to do real work. I did JB weld a bicycle brake boss on, and it worked for almost a year. - Grind and paint your joints as soon as they cool off to slow the rust. - Expect to buy a good die grinder shortly after you buy a welder. |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by Phelonius on 05/27/10 at 09:11:29 It's a POS buzz box. It will work very well for those who put steel chicken doo doo on projects. Phelonius |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by Paladin. on 05/27/10 at 11:15:28 I ask why use electric stuff instead of gas? |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by earlytimz on 05/27/10 at 11:31:55 27362E2F2529460 wrote:
+1 on the 120v Lincoln mig/ flux core welders. Lincoln makes REAL welders and these are no exception. 220v migs are ideal, but for the hobbyist it's a little overkill. Mine was about $400, and the gas kit was another $69. I mainly use flux-core because it's a lot less hassle & I can clean up the welds if I need to. Plus I can throw it in the truck and run it off my generator. With practice you can make good looking presentable welds that are strong. Although I only weld for personal use now-a-days, there was a time when I did it for a living. You really need a welder suited for what you're gonna be welding. The 120v Lincolns are a do-it-all. You can do sheet metal all the way up to 5/16 or more, which is plenty for anything you will ever weld on a motorcycle. There are techniques involved. Bevel the edges on the bigger stuff & run multiple passes, structural tubing joints get a sleeve and plug welds, etc... Taking a class at the local tech school or at minimum reading some good books will go a long ways. Don't waste your money on an el cheapo from Norther Tool or Mother Freight. An experienced welder is lucky to get a decent weld with these. If you want a buzz box (stick), a good Lincoln is fairly inexpensive and will last your lifetime. Keep in mind, pretty welds are a lot harder to make with a stick, especially if you're not experienced. Someone said to avoid galvanized... Good advice! It can be done no problem, but expect a 3 day headache afterward!! |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by Horatio Hawkshaw on 05/27/10 at 12:00:01 I used to be really good at stick welding- played around with an old Lincoln my grand-dad had out in the barn. And I mean old. I think he had it for twenty years before I was born and it still worked great. I think my uncle still uses it (if he hasn't sold it for brown party liquor. ::) ) I only recently got into mig welding- sold my XBox and picked up a 120v Campbell-Hausfield off craigslist for under two hundred. Works great for anything I would ever want to do. My welds aren't really pretty with it, but they're getting better with practice. |
|
Title: Re: Welding Post by Ed L. on 05/27/10 at 20:01:24 I've been welding for years using a stick and gas. If you go for a stick get a 220 volt that has a DC cycle, the DC helps pull the weld into the metal which is handy to have when welding overhead. Gas works well if you know what you are doing, it is easier to weld thick to thin metal with gas. The biggest problem with gas is the heat which will warp the metal as you weld plus the gas gets expensive for bigger jobs. The nice thing about having a gas setup is that you can do the old heat and beat for blacksmithing and custom metal work plus you can do knife smithing. I haven't had much experiance with migs or tigs but they look like the way to go for shop welding. |
|
SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2! YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved. |