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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> head removal /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1273638634 Message started by abotech on 05/11/10 at 21:30:34 |
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Title: head removal Post by abotech on 05/11/10 at 21:30:34 The Cylmer manual states that I have to remove the engine from the frame to pull the head. Is there enough clearance to do this in the frame? |
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Title: Re: head removal Post by verslagen1 on 05/11/10 at 21:49:32 no |
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Title: Re: head removal Post by jabman on 05/12/10 at 04:55:23 i sure hope i never have to remove the head then i what sort of circumstances or issues would you need to remove the head? |
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Title: Re: head removal Post by BurnPgh on 05/12/10 at 12:28:24 replacing valves, reconditioning valve seats, piston, piston ring, con rod replacement/repair, rear cam chain guide replacement, anything involving the bottom end (excepting cam chain and tensioner replacement and clutch work). Its really just easier to remove the engine than try to work in that space IMO. Takes about an hour to disassemble all the junk that needs to be removed to remove the engine then just lay the bike to the left onto a big thick pillow, mattress, or pile of blankets. Wiggle the frame until the engine clears it and is left laying on your padding. Getting it back in isnt as easy but it isnt terrible. Helps to have a friend. |
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Title: Re: head removal Post by ThumperS40 on 05/19/10 at 20:40:51 I remember doing a head gasket on my old 86 Savage years ago. I believe I removed the cylinder studs and was able to do the top end in the frame. |
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Title: Re: head removal Post by verslagen1 on 05/19/10 at 21:11:39 removing the engine from the frame is quite easy actually. remove all that you can (starter, carb, wiring) remove all bolts and brackets lay a blanket on the lawn lay the savage down wiggle the engine till it's free turn it up pick up and set on bench. be advised the engine is close to 100 lbs, get your wife to pick it up for you. |
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Title: Re: head removal Post by Max_Morley on 05/19/10 at 21:18:00 I pulled the head on mine by pulling the upper rear motor mount bolt and loosening the belt and letting the engine tip forward and down on the lower loosened rear motor mount bolt. worked on my 96. Max |
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Title: Re: head removal Post by Savager on 07/10/10 at 23:49:02 Cool, I'm trying to figure out if I need to pull my head to change the gasket. I just pulled the cover tightened all of the top 4 nuts to a little tighter than 24lbs because I don't think they were ever done, and I didn't want to go back in there for a while (I heard the one screech a little like it was about to sheer, oops! I hope it'll be okay come next time). I tightened the bottom two nuts under the intake and exhaust to what felt good as i couldn't get the torque wrench in there, boy the exhaust almost took a full turn. I adjusted the valves to their tightest tolerance, checked the plug gap and compressed the gasket on the plug as it had only been in there finger tight. I thought the thing needed a new head gasket when I bought it, but I think now it may have just been the little cap that covers the one head bolt. After I put it back together it only leaks when I romp on it. If I cruise it’s okay with no leaks, but I’d like to give it the juice every now and then, but not if it means a head gasket. :-? |
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Title: Re: head removal Post by Phelonius on 07/20/10 at 10:03:04 The best way to re torque the head bolts is to, One at a Time remove them in proper order and put a drop of motor oil on the threads and replace them thightening to within 10 pounds of spec. After you have done this to all of them one at a time to prevent your gasket from possibly lifting, Torque them to spec in proper order. Don't forget the two upside down nuts under the head for and aft. Phelonius |
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Title: Re: head removal Post by Digger on 07/22/10 at 21:34:27 5A616B634067677E6D7A080 wrote:
Two words: Torque adapter. IHTH! |
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