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Message started by youzguyz on 05/10/10 at 12:32:51

Title: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by youzguyz on 05/10/10 at 12:32:51

Yeah, sorry about that chief, an oil question (or asking for opinion, actually).

I currently run Mobil 1 synthetic.

Looking to change over to Rotella, but want to stay synthetic.
Has anyone out there tried the Rotella T6?   Research and rumor says it should work just fine for the LS650, but I would like to hear from one of us that is actually using it.

Anyone?  
(Yes OF, I know you use it, and feel free to chime in on how well it is working for you)

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Oldfeller on 05/10/10 at 13:07:38


No, I'd rather hear from the other users.   I am known as a promoter of the stuff, so let's let the impartial opinions of other users be heard for or against it instead.

Besides, the only one QUALIFIED to have an opinion is the one man who has actually used all these oils ....

Let him who has the only rock toss it into the ring

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Routy on 05/10/10 at 13:15:27

I don't like it !

Not only do I like Castrol synthetic better, its all I've ever used ;D

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/10/10 at 13:16:20

If you want to go better than Mobil 1 you would have to go to Klotz,Its not cheap but you get what you pay for,You will have more power, better gas mpg,And a cooler running engine.The first syn oil.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by omahasavage on 05/10/10 at 13:24:14

Are there any scientifically ran studies with the various syn motorcycle oils?  Anyone know of a link they could point to somewhere on the web with something like that?  

Otherwise, to me, it's all opinion.  

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/10/10 at 13:29:35

 Amsoil show test of oils,But for some reason they never show Klotz.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by jabman on 05/10/10 at 13:57:17

yer the castrol website has lots of information  :)

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Serowbot on 05/10/10 at 14:01:18


6A6164643E3F080 wrote:
 ...But for some reason they never show Klotz.

Honestly though,... could you pick a worse name for a lubricant than "Klotz"?... :-?...

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by jabman on 05/10/10 at 14:03:03


4157405D45505D46320 wrote:
[quote author=6A6164643E3F080 link=1273519971/0#5 date=1273523375]  ...But for some reason they never show Klotz.

Honestly though,... could you pick a worse name for a lubricant than "Klotz"?... :-?...[/quote]

lol yer what do you really not want an oil to do    clot  ;D

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Oldfeller on 05/10/10 at 14:56:49

Klotz was not the first synthetic 4 stroke oil, Mobil 1 predates it by decades.   So do several others.

Klotz was the first synthetic two stroke oil -- and it was the best two stroke oil (the low smoke was especially a nice feature) and I both used it and liked it in a Yamaha RD 400 for years.  

I liked Klotz 2 stroke oil ...  but I would not pay the $12 plus dollars a quart for Klotz for a 4 stroke motorcycle engine.

The reason nobody tests or knows anything about Klotz in the 4 stroke world is that it didn't exist for 4 strokes until a couple of years ago and even now it is considered a "racing only" oil.

All the claims Klotz makes for their Super Techniplate Technology were developed and proven in two stroke engines ... nobody knows what exactly it supposedly does for a 4 stroke engine anyway as the old two stroke claims all had to do with making a good gas mixture and burning cleanly and then leaving a misting post combustion residue in the jug that lubed cylinder walls well.  

How Klotz super techniplate technology helps a 4 stroke Savage engine (unless you got a skeeter fogger like one of us here does) is completely beyond me.

Mobil 1 was originally made exclusively as a group 1 ester based oil made from natural gas but some information about them beginning to use some super refined dino base oils (the new legal definition of synthetic allows this) in order to be able to price compete against all the other newer group 3 synthetic oil brands.  

So it goes -- economics declare that group 3 is the new reigning "synthetic oil".

Mobil 1 also isn't a single additive formula any more -- the additives used vary according to the weight base and the intended use.   Plus Mobil will change the stuff internally with no prior warning to their user base.  (and they catch hell about it too)

If you use Mobil 1, use the motorcycle version of it.

T6 Synthetic Rotella is JASO tested and rated for bike use (sez so right on the jug) so the standard T6 blue jug stuff is good for your Savage.

Which is "better"?    I can't say.   No hard data exists as no one will run synthetics in a bike long enough to really use them up, much less push them to the failure point.  

So any proper weight range synthetic will work as well as any other since you will always change it too early anyway.

No, I can't say which is better.  That's Bill's turf anyway - all them unsubstantiated claims of Zero wear and all.

I can say which synthetic oil is cheaper and does a good job of keeping your engine degunked and your clutch and gearbox operating well.

But lots of others here in motorcycle land say the same thing so I don't need to.


=========================================


Tappets.  Cam chains.  Cam lobes.  16000 to 1800 PPM of ZDDP is needed.   Read your bottles as darn few modern oils have this much ZDDP in them now-a-days.

Use a ZDDP Booster product like this one to maximize the service life of your wear components.


http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Images/L/1678.JPG


=========================================



All I can add to the discussion is the wicker endorsement which doesn't mean much to most of you since you never break 5,000 rpm ever.

Rotella Syn spins it up good and shows very little wear and damage in very abusive situations.   It can withstand any heat a spun up Savage can generate and not break down.



And I do change my oil twice a year now, even if it isn't really necessary.  
I am simply chicken that way, sorry.



Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by verslagen1 on 05/10/10 at 15:13:15

You might of guessed, OF was referring to me, the only guy that's used several of the oils in question.

Rot dino
Rot syn
Mobil1 syn
Motul dino

All of the above have left the insides of my little friend as clean as a whistle with no clutch issues, and no extra bits of shiny dust in the filter.

But I do have an issue with Cal summer heat and a wicker wrist that'll burn off a half qt. of oil a week no matter which one I've used.

Now I have a case of Klotz 20w50 that I'll put to the test as soon as my summer habit resumes.

As far as engine wear goes, only one person tears his engine down on a regular basis... I think it was max (key words if you wanted to search, sidecar tug, northwest, backup engine)

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/10/10 at 15:14:43

You don't need any booster with Zero Wear Klotz oil.Theres a lot of oil that have the jaso ratings.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Oldfeller on 05/10/10 at 15:29:34


Shell only put the JASO rating on Rotella at the request of all the folks like me who got tired of all the useless oil wars.



In a Savage these are the absolute minimum requirements:


Use OIL in your bike (keep it above the minimum in the sight glass at all times).  

Change it frequently enough
(that used peanut oil from Hardees needs changing more frequently than Mobil 1 for obvious reasons).  

Keep your idle speed over 1,000 rpms


===============================


If you got you a 650cc skeeter fogger, consider using Klotz oil -- it combusts cleanly and leaves a post-combustion mist residue in the jug that will lubricate your cylinder walls ... that is the super techniplate technology in action  !!!

Hooorah !!

   ;D

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/10/10 at 15:38:54

You sure wouldn't want your cylinder walls lubricated,Then you would never have a reason to tear your engine apart.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Routy on 05/10/10 at 15:51:39

quote:
In a Savage these are the absolute minimum requirements:
Use OIL in your bike (keep it above the minimum in the sight glass at all times).  
Change it frequently enough
-----------------------------------------------------
No truer words ever spoke......in this thread anyway.

Its hard to believe, but some of these posters really sound serious about believing that one oil really is better than the other. I like to read and just LOL, but really, I do have another life !

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Max_Morley on 05/10/10 at 15:57:54

If you want to know more bout oils, go to "motorwatch.com". They explain the differences between real synthetics and not so real. My be some biased as it is put together by RED LINE OIL.  Max

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Oldfeller on 05/10/10 at 16:05:08

Red Line sells synthetic oils and makes a good case for why you should use them.

Red Line also builds the ZDDP booster listed up thread and uses their premium synthetic oil as the carrier base for the ZDDP.

Remember to shake that tall skinny bottle good before pouring out the shot glass fulls-  that dust in the bottom of the bottle is some settled out ZDDP -- mix it up good then run your bike as soon as you change the oil out so as to get the ZDDP mixed in to the rest of the oil (keep it in solution that way).

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/10/10 at 16:08:05


4E415B405C5A494B434D5A280 wrote:
quote:
In a Savage these are the absolute minimum requirements:
Use OIL in your bike (keep it above the minimum in the sight glass at all times).  
Change it frequently enough
-----------------------------------------------------
No truer words ever spoke......in this thread anyway.

Its hard to believe, but some of these posters really sound serious about believing that one oil really is better than the other. I like to read and just LOL, but really, I do have another life !

 Then give your motorcycle a new life,use Klotz

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/10/10 at 16:22:04

Klotz says change oil when it get dirty,My don't seem to get dirty so I go the same as a car 7000 miles between changes.So $10 a quart isn't bad.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by verslagen1 on 05/10/10 at 18:28:08


575C59590302350 wrote:
Klotz says change oil when it get dirty,My don't seem to get dirty so I go the same as a car 7000 miles between changes.So $10 a quart isn't bad.

So how many years between changes is that for you bill?

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/10/10 at 18:42:11

2

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by cornfuzed on 05/10/10 at 18:56:28

Dangit Youzguyz wadjya have to go an do that? i swear this forum reminds me of my kin in Wv and Ky! Guns come out when politickin starts up... LOL ... Ok rant over..  ive come to lern to listen to others who might be a taad touch more smarty than me, shaddup an try what they did... T6 is some good stuff from what ive seen... gonna try Schaeffer Racing 20w50 comming in a month or so... seens to get some good nods about it... would try royal purple as ive liked it in my car / truck but for $17 / qt??? Nooo thankye.. sides... ive switched all my vehicles over to Schaeffers 5w30 as i get Oil analysis from my trailblazer ever month... Im a believer... oh and to throw a stick on the fire...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
go an getchya a phd in oil... lol...
an to throw a bone
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1715542
seem to like Klotz out there...

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Max_Morley on 05/10/10 at 18:58:54

I run the category IV not real synthetic, but dino derivatives until the oil change message comes on on our Colorado PU. If there are lots of highway warm weather miles it may go upwards of 8K before the message appears. On full size GM trucks you can get an "oil life left" reading that would be nice on the mid-size one.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by verslagen1 on 05/10/10 at 18:59:06


63686D6D3736010 wrote:
2

so, by bill, we'll know if klotz is any good in 20 years.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/10/10 at 19:15:23

 I been using Klotz for 40 years.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by youzguyz on 05/11/10 at 02:53:17


3D342A313B6F68580 wrote:
Dangit Youzguyz wadjya have to go an do that? i swear this forum reminds me of my kin in Wv and Ky! Guns come out when politickin starts up... LOL ... Ok rant over..  ive come to lern to listen to others who might be a taad touch more smarty than me, shaddup an try what they did... T6 is some good stuff from what ive seen... gonna try Schaeffer Racing 20w50 comming in a month or so... seens to get some good nods about it... would try royal purple as ive liked it in my car / truck but for $17 / qt??? Nooo thankye.. sides... ive switched all my vehicles over to Schaeffers 5w30 as i get Oil analysis from my trailblazer ever month... Im a believer... oh and to throw a stick on the fire...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
go an getchya a phd in oil... lol...
an to throw a bone
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1715542
seem to like Klotz out there...


And ya know.. ALL I asked for was opinions from people who have used T6.   Knew this would happen...  :-X

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by onelunger on 05/11/10 at 04:21:17

I tried the std. Rotella in my GSXR last oil change and will probably stick w/ it from now on (will probably get the Sym. next time). I have had no issues w/ it. The clutch feels very smooth w/ no slip and the engine runs smooth and cool. Now, keep in mind this is on an old oil cooled model that kills the fun at exactly 12,500rpm and sees that rev limiter almost every time it's out  :o  The highway cruise RPM is in the 5,000-6000rpm range and I ride a lot of highway (it's 1hr each way to work for me) Over on the GSXR forum I frequent there are several guys w/ over 40,000mi. on their GSXR's that race every weekend running Rotella w/o issue. Trust me, there is NOTHING the Savage can throw out that Rotella can't handle.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Oldfeller on 05/11/10 at 04:26:31


Yeah, the speed boys use Rotella, but they just abuse the crap out of it,  not rack up lots of miles.

Go to other forums, especially touring forums like the Honda flat six forums for more precise and realistic long term tests on oils.  

Let's face it, our Savages see maybe 10,000 miles of normal riding with the high end being 15-20,000 miles in a year's time.

Compare that to a retired dude's Goldstar that can travel 100,000 miles in a good year.   He can test oil in ways we can't.

Compare that to a 18 wheeler who can easily dump 1,000,000 miles a year in normal duty.

Then consider that all three of the above groups seem to like Rotella Synthetic jest dandy .... go figure.   It seems to be good stuff.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/11/10 at 04:59:41

 Did you ever notice on here the ones using rotella oil,always have their engine torn down ::) but its jest dandy oil.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Oldfeller on 05/11/10 at 05:09:20


Yep, it does seem that high performance engines do get taken apart more frequently than sedate putt putt machines.






Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/11/10 at 05:15:54

  Thats when you really need a high performance racing oil,Not some off the self wal mart oil.Like rotella.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Oldfeller on 05/11/10 at 05:48:29


Careful Bill, you are starting to finger dribble again ....  

Watch out for that blood pressure spiking up again.  You know what the doctors say about us old men not getting too excited and all.

Calmmmmm   Calmmmmm

Let's say the mantra together --

Klotz is better,    Klotz is better,   Klotz is better,    Klotz is better


I give -- Klotz is King


Klotz is better in two strokes and four strokes.


Feel better now?

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/11/10 at 05:54:21

Thanks a lot Oldfellow,I want need my heart pill yet.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Charon on 05/11/10 at 06:37:41

Just to stir the pot - I keep seeing (from Bill) references to a "zero wear" oil. But I don't see any references to testing, such as under what conditions the test of "zero wear" was made. I don't see any references to whether any other oil was tested at the same time and under the same conditions for reference. I must assume the reference to "zero wear" came from the manufacturer's literature, which makes it suspect at best. After all, one doesn't have to look very far to find similar claims from Amsoil synthetic oil.

I have been to a number of fairs and expos, and there is usually someone selling some sort of super oil. They usually have some sort of test rig, where one can see for oneself how vastly superior the product is to any other oil. But I am left to wonder - if the product is so superior, why isn't it available from other sources? Why isn't it outselling all the other clearly inferior products? What isn't the salesman telling us?

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by ralfyguy on 05/11/10 at 06:53:02

I kinda think that the Savage motor is stressed higher than most crotch rockets. Look at the motor designs: Crotch rockets have multiple cylinders with small pistons and short strokes. The load is spread to all cylinders so piston speeds and centrifugal forces are not that high. Means stress on the connecting rods and friction on cylinder walls and piston walls. On a Savage motor you have close to a 4" diameter piston and close to a 4" stroke. And as a single cylinder imagine those piston speeds at about 6,500 rpm and the stress on the rod. Also the friction on the walls with significant higher friction area considering the circumference of such a large piston/bore. And the fact it's just oil cooled. I think that a Savage motor stresses the oil way more than on other engine designs, thus depends more on a good oil therefore. I use LUCAS 20W-50 in summer, and Mobil 10w-40 in winter. I change it every 1,000 miles, since it looks really black to me when I look at it through the sight glass, and sure enough it looks pretty bad when I drain it. It may still be good, I just don't like how it looks.

Funny thing is that on this forum never anybody mentioned LUCAS oil. Is Oklahoma the only state they sell it? :)

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Oldfeller on 05/11/10 at 07:30:32

Our cam actuation system is a high load antique design (bike hales back to 1987 after all) so yes there are high load points in our bike more so than newer roller tappet or the direct cam-to-valve-stem designs.

Our pistons do fail and do wear out -- but it takes over 30,000 miles to do it.

Letting it run out of oil kills more Savages than any other reason.


Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Routy on 05/11/10 at 08:02:57

Name a proven bad oil that is on the market today !

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by ralfyguy on 05/11/10 at 08:13:41

I can't name a proven bad oil, because I wouldn't know any. There probably isn't any. I just like to stick with well known brands for whatever reason.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/11/10 at 08:21:46

  Yesterday I ordered 10 quarts of klotz mx4 15-50 from rocky mountain atv-mc for $99.99 with shipping.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Gort on 05/11/10 at 08:59:20


210A03100D0C620 wrote:
Just to stir the pot - I keep seeing (from Bill) references to a "zero wear" oil. But I don't see any references to testing, such as under what conditions the test of "zero wear" was made. I don't see any references to whether any other oil was tested at the same time and under the same conditions for reference. I must assume the reference to "zero wear" came from the manufacturer's literature, which makes it suspect at best. After all, one doesn't have to look very far to find similar claims from Amsoil synthetic oil.

I have been to a number of fairs and expos, and there is usually someone selling some sort of super oil. They usually have some sort of test rig, where one can see for oneself how vastly superior the product is to any other oil. But I am left to wonder - if the product is so superior, why isn't it available from other sources? Why isn't it outselling all the other clearly inferior products? What isn't the salesman telling us?



There was a program on PBS some years ago explaining the scam behind the miracle oil additives.  They showed one of the commercials where a sleeve bearing was placed on a machine that had a dulled, tool steel bit attached to a lever.  The tool steel bit could be forced against the rotating bearing by a man pulling down the lever, similar to a lathe using a bit to cut metal.

First they poured motor oil on the rotating sleeve bearing, and engaged the bit against it.  The bit began scoring the sleeve, with smoke dramatically coming off the bearing.  Then they put another sleeve bearing on the machine, and poured the miracle additive on it.  They repeated the demonstration, and this time, the bearing did not smoke and was barely scratched.  This was supposed to be visual proof that this additive would also protect your engine in the same way.  What the liars didn't tell you was that the miracle additive was concentrated with chlorinated parafins, which will eat away at metal surfaces with long time exposure.  Machine shops use oils like this all the time for cutting purposes, but they clean the finished part when they are done.  Letting this type oil sit in your engine sump allows it to eat away at some metals inside the engine.

Another class of miracle oil additves contain Teflon and or Molybdenum.  They claim that the Teflon adheres to internal engine surfaces and thus make them slipperier.  DuPont, the inventor of Teflon, went to court to try to stop these small companies from making that claim.  DuPont said that getting Teflon to adhere to metal surfaces was very difficult, and required the metal surface to be absolutely clean, and then required exacting temperature processes to get it to adhere.  They said under no circumstances would Teflon adhere to anything inside an engine.  They also said they would be concerned that the Teflon would clog the oil filter, since it would adhere to nothing in the engine.

As for Molybdenum, the same thing applies and it has an even better chance of clogging an oil filter.

The conclusion was that the oil you buy in the store is a careful blend of many additives, created by multi-million dollar labs by engineers who have been doing this for almost a century.  PBS said that oil has achieved state of the art development, meaning that there is no longer any mystery as to how to make it.  They said as long as you buy their top of the line product, there is little difference from one major oil brand to the next, assuming you are comparing the same types to each other....meaning gasoline car engine oil to gasoline car engine oil, motorcycle oil to motorcycle oil, and diesel engine oil to diesel engine oil.

As for zero wear, when Mobil One was first offered years ago to the general public, a magazine called "Road Test" commissioned a lab to test it.  They did this because the general public knew little about synthetic oil, even though the military and Aviation had been using it.  Until Mobil one was marketed, you didn't even see synthetics on the shelves of major auto supply stores.

 The lab took 2 new V8 engines and disassembled them, measuring the internal parts with a micrometer.  The engines were reassembled, and one was filled with a top of the line conventional oil, and the other with Mobil One.  Both were run for 100,000 bench test miles.  The engine with the conventional oil had its oil and filter changed according to manufacturer's specs.  The Mobil One engine had no oil or filter change.  After 100 thou. bench miles, the engines were dismantled and the micrometer used again.  The conventional oil engine showed wear and dirt normal for a 100 thou mile engine.  The Mobil One engine parts measured within manufacturer's specs for a new engine, and showed very little dirt.  

This is not to say that Mobil One is best.  At the time of the test, there were few if any other synthetics offered for sale, and none in any of the major auto parts stores. Stores like WalMant were unheard of.  

As PBS concluded, oil manufacture is now state of the art.  Any top of the line synthetic should offer the same performance as did Mobil One.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Oldfeller on 05/11/10 at 09:24:08

Yep, and I can go buy Rotella Syn in the big blue jug from my local Wally Mart for half that much money and run it for 100,000 miles.

And any of this proves what? -- that oil costs money?  
That not having oil in your engine costs a lot more?  
That them big diesel rigs must have really nice oil filtration systems built into them from the factory?


:)


If you want a bevy of 100,000 and 200,000 mile reports on Rotella products just punch that request into your browser.   You will find cars, RVs, trucks, CBRRs and Goldwings all reporting "all fine" after some astronomical mileages have been achieved.



And how exactly does that relate to your 10,000 mile per year Savage again?


     :)


           (only marginally)






              remember, Klotz is King !!

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by onelunger on 05/11/10 at 09:25:48


5C4F424857495B572E0 wrote:
I kinda think that the Savage motor is stressed higher than most crotch rockets. Look at the motor designs: Crotch rockets have multiple cylinders with small pistons and short strokes. The load is spread to all cylinders so piston speeds and centrifugal forces are not that high. Means stress on the connecting rods and friction on cylinder walls and piston walls. On a Savage motor you have close to a 4" diameter piston and close to a 4" stroke. And as a single cylinder imagine those piston speeds at about 6,500 rpm and the stress on the rod. Also the friction on the walls with significant higher friction area considering the circumference of such a large piston/bore. And the fact it's just oil cooled. I think that a Savage motor stresses the oil way more than on other engine designs, thus depends more on a good oil therefore. I use LUCAS 20W-50 in summer, and Mobil 10w-40 in winter. I change it every 1,000 miles, since it looks really black to me when I look at it through the sight glass, and sure enough it looks pretty bad when I drain it. It may still be good, I just don't like how it looks.

Funny thing is that on this forum never anybody mentioned LUCAS oil. Is Oklahoma the only state they sell it? :)



200 hp/Liter puts PLENTY of stress on EVERYTHING! The rotating assemblies are much lighter but they spin 2-3X faster than any Savage. That kind of power density comes w/ quite a bit of heat/stress. Couple that w/ the fact that most sportbikes are flogged mercilessly for their lifetime and 30,000+ miles is quite an accomplishment (I've seen some w/ much more than that). Just imagine how long a 130hp Savage would last. That's how much ol' thumper would have to put out to match the average sportbike.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by jabman on 05/11/10 at 10:13:53


3839323B2239303225570 wrote:
[quote author=5C4F424857495B572E0 link=1273519971/30#34 date=1273585982]I kinda think that the Savage motor is stressed higher than most crotch rockets. Look at the motor designs: Crotch rockets have multiple cylinders with small pistons and short strokes. The load is spread to all cylinders so piston speeds and centrifugal forces are not that high. Means stress on the connecting rods and friction on cylinder walls and piston walls. On a Savage motor you have close to a 4" diameter piston and close to a 4" stroke. And as a single cylinder imagine those piston speeds at about 6,500 rpm and the stress on the rod. Also the friction on the walls with significant higher friction area considering the circumference of such a large piston/bore. And the fact it's just oil cooled. I think that a Savage motor stresses the oil way more than on other engine designs, thus depends more on a good oil therefore. I use LUCAS 20W-50 in summer, and Mobil 10w-40 in winter. I change it every 1,000 miles, since it looks really black to me when I look at it through the sight glass, and sure enough it looks pretty bad when I drain it. It may still be good, I just don't like how it looks.

Funny thing is that on this forum never anybody mentioned LUCAS oil. Is Oklahoma the only state they sell it? :)



200 hp/Liter puts PLENTY of stress on EVERYTHING! The rotating assemblies are much lighter but they spin 2-3X faster than any Savage. That kind of power density comes w/ quite a bit of heat/stress. Couple that w/ the fact that most sportbikes are flogged mercilessly for their lifetime and 30,000+ miles is quite an accomplishment (I've seen some w/ much more than that). Just imagine how long a 130hp Savage would last. That's how much ol' thumper would have to put out to match the average sportbike. [/quote]


Thats why i use castrol racing oil  which is supposed to go in super bikes. plently of stress protection there.

And yes Oldfeller it does have lots of zddp!

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by dasch on 05/11/10 at 10:27:57

You would have to look really hard to find a "bad" oil nowadays. My last car, a toyota corolla 1.6 had a 15000km service interval. Reccomended oil - Castrol GTX 10W30. Less than $2 per quart. citroen I have now is even better - 30000km, but it uses some "special" french oil. Yeah, right, special... Total Quartz full syn 10W50. $25 per quart!! Knowing the engine I have hasn't changed in 15 years... Makes me think...
My point - oil wars are senseless. If clutch doesn't slip - use the fukka. Whatever you believe in. You will never meet milage on LS as you see on any car or truck.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by jabman on 05/11/10 at 10:54:50


3F3A2838335B0 wrote:
You would have to look really hard to find a "bad" oil nowadays. My last car, a toyota corolla 1.6 had a 15000km service interval. Reccomended oil - Castrol GTX 10W30. Less than $2 per quart. citroen I have now is even better - 30000km, but it uses some "special" french oil. Yeah, right, special... Total Quartz full syn 10W50. $25 per quart!! Knowing the engine I have hasn't changed in 15 years... Makes me think...
My point - oil wars are senseless. If clutch doesn't slip - use the fukka. Whatever you believe in. You will never meet milage on LS as you see on any car or truck.


thats kinda the problem really. we know these arnt high mileage bikes and so we want to get every mile out of them as possible.

i will most likely sell my bike in a year and a half or so but i want to keep the wear to a minimum to keep power loss to a minimum as the miles increase.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by dasch on 05/11/10 at 11:14:39

Jab, so do I, I want every mile out if. My point is - service it regularly, change the oil once a year or so, change the filter, do regular checks, adhere to common sense, don't over rev when cold and such, bla bla bla - and we will get all those miles. With modern oils it would be really hard not to. Specially some stuff they sell in US.. Geez...

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Oldfeller on 05/11/10 at 17:02:49


Since engine death lives somewhere below the lower edge of the sight glass I for one cannot understand folks not filling their bikes up to the upper edge of the sight glass window when they fill up after an oil change.   They actually only put it half way up the window ...

This is a reality check for all you guys choosing to live too close to the edge of oil pressure loss due to not having enough oil in the crankcase == you can actually go to the tippy top of the glass and slightly beyond without hurting anything.

Your reality check is this.   Get someone to sit on your bike while you look at the sight glass and then tell them to start 'er up.  You watch while your oil level drops WAY BELOW THE WINDOW as all the oil goes into circulation in the head and gearbox.  It drops an entire widow width's worth and more when you start it.  

THERE IS LOTS OF ROOM IN THAT CRANKCASE BELOW THE SPLASH SHELF THAT SHIELDS THE ROTATING CRANK WHEELS FROM THE OIL SUPPLY.

Me, I fill mine up so the oil just peeps over the bottom of the window when on the sidestand, that way I can easily visually check the oil every time I simply look at that side of the bike.

Plus I have me a little extra oil reserve should I NOT see any oil in the window as I approach -- I jest put her upright and low and behold the oil level will be somewhere in the good zone and I now have my extra time to get some more oil in there with zero chance of any low oil damage.



Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by verslagen1 on 05/11/10 at 21:29:01

Towards the top line, I get a lot of oil in the airbox.
So I tend to keep it halfway or lower.

Now OF, you tease with info about what those high mileage lazy boys can do to test oil.

What can cheap @$$ b'tard do to test his oil in a manner that we all can understand?

My intentions where merely to check oil consumption.  Which I have a real problem with.  Here it is, threatening to break 80° and I'm burning oil like a Texan.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by Oldfeller on 05/12/10 at 02:01:41


Since you consume a quarter quart a month you don't ever need to change your synthetic oil -- you are "replacing" it on a rotating basis.

If you were a cheap bastard you'd go ahead and put that furnace oil filtration unit on your bike down where the airbox/charcoal canister would go with the exit going up to the tap point you jest put in your head cover.

Your bypass filtration oil flow would be a parallel path to your head bearings, would be cool well filtered oil that got used in a critical area a NO NET PRESSURE/VOLUME LOSS TO YOUR MAIN OILING SYSTEM WHATSOEVER.  

The filtered flow volume would be enough to keep your oil charge particulate level down way below what Savages generally keep, so your oil would last longer and the bike would too.

Then just replace the Klotz as it gets oozed/burned/sucked out of your bike and don't worry about changing anything but your two oil filters about once every year or so.   The Klotz would burn gracefully (pretty much soot & smoke free) especially if it really is the same stuff they sell as two stroke oil.

Then, after 5-10 years you could put enough miles on your oil (which would be quietly replaced multiple times on a reasonable schedule by simple useage) to make the claim to have "put 100,000 miles on a single crankcase load of Klotz".


That would make Bill all happy ....  


    .... you could become a testimonial on the Klotz web page too.


                  ;)


Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by dasch on 05/12/10 at 03:51:00

And mix some SeaFoam in that Klotz... man, that thing could fly you to Mars and back easily...  ;)

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by jabman on 05/12/10 at 04:41:25


7B5850525158585146340 wrote:

Since engine death lives somewhere below the lower edge of the sight glass I for one cannot understand folks not filling their bikes up to the upper edge of the sight glass window when they fill up after an oil change.   They actually only put it half way up the window ...

This is a reality check for all you guys choosing to live too close to the edge of oil pressure loss due to not having enough oil in the crankcase == you can actually go to the tippy top of the glass and slightly beyond without hurting anything.

Your reality check is this.   Get someone to sit on your bike while you look at the sight glass and then tell them to start 'er up.  You watch while your oil level drops WAY BELOW THE WINDOW as all the oil goes into circulation in the head and gearbox.  It drops an entire widow width's worth and more when you start it.  

THERE IS LOTS OF ROOM IN THAT CRANKCASE BELOW THE SPLASH SHELF THAT SHIELDS THE ROTATING CRANK WHEELS FROM THE OIL SUPPLY.

Me, I fill mine up so the oil just peeps over the bottom of the window when on the sidestand, that way I can easily visually check the oil every time I simply look at that side of the bike.

Plus I have me a little extra oil reserve should I NOT see any oil in the window as I approach -- I jest put her upright and low and behold the oil level will be somewhere in the good zone and I now have my extra time to get some more oil in there with zero chance of any low oil damage.



Wouldn't more oil take longer to come up to temperature?

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by bill67 on 05/12/10 at 04:55:28


706374756A6761636837060 wrote:
Towards the top line, I get a lot of oil in the airbox.
So I tend to keep it halfway or lower.

Now OF, you tease with info about what those high mileage lazy boys can do to test oil.

What can cheap @$$ b'tard do to test his oil in a manner that we all can understand?

My intentions where merely to check oil consumption.  Which I have a real problem with.  Here it is, threatening to break 80° and I'm burning oil like a Texan.

Seems to me your not getting a good a ring to cylinder wall contact,Put some Sea Foam in the oil to free the rings,Then use a good motorcycle oil a little heavier than you have been using,That should help with the blow by you have been getting.I would say Klotz oil but I know no one here likes to spend money.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by verslagen1 on 05/12/10 at 07:22:07

knew I forgot mention something... case of klotz 20w50 on hand for the summer run.

Title: Re: Warning Will Robinson.. Oil Thread
Post by photojoe on 05/12/10 at 09:10:26

Started with Castrol Act-evo for the first oil change in my Savage. When I could no longer find it at my local, I went through several different oils, from cheap suzi dino oil to Mobile 1. The roughest shifting came from the Suzuki dino, the smoothest with the Castrol. My bike leaked like a sieve with Mobile 1. Not the Mobil 1's fault though, it just exposed issues that were already there.

I'm back to the Castrol Act-Evo. I order it online by the gallon. Less leaking and smooth shifting/running. Whatever works for you. Just get rid of the dirty oil/filter on a regular basis.

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