|
SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> New /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1268803619 Message started by kerosene on 03/16/10 at 22:26:58 |
|
Title: New Post by kerosene on 03/16/10 at 22:26:58 So I wished I was joining this forum under better circumstances, but unfortunately as my luck may have it I'm not... So basically, I bought my bike ('97 Suzuki Savage LS 650 with 6k miles) in sept 09 from a buddy of mine, rode it in 09 for 700 miles filled it up with gas 100% added some stabilizer (just in case) unplugged gas tube from carb and clogged/clamped it, and ran the engine till it died... stored in heated garage for winter. I had my charger on the battery all winter, went to go start the bike 2 week ago and my battery died, oh well nuts happens I bought a new battery, got it wed installed bike started and ran fine... rode it in 2 days 240 miles or so, and gassed up twice... last night I gassed up at shell, rode home np... today... got on the bike, 10miles after, bike starts backfireing weirdly (in the engine as in kind of dying off for a split sec then lunging forward) I figured maybe I was feeling this, who knows... rode for 30 miles, kept happening and I ignored it.... happened once more, loud POP 2 miles down the road, bike cut off... started the f**ker up, rode for 1/2mile, died... I was pissed and on a busy intersection... started er' up again, rode for 1/2mile died... (side note to HD guys, they are loyal bikers, they saw me on side of road and stopped to help!) anyways, I got the bike to my friends house (barely) kept the rev's at I'd say 3-4k if I had to feel it on 3rd gear (was running loud but better than dying out on busy intersection) I left my bike at her house for about 1.4hrs, came back fired the bike up ran around the block ran fine... parked the bike and waited for the female to dress (looooong wait) got on the bike and was about to ride, listened to the idle and noticed a hesitation in the engine every so often, I knew I had a problem... I rode the bike 1/2 mile, bike died, and basically stayed dead... got back to my friends house looked at everything, all looked good... called my buddy he said the carb might be dirty, but he just cleaned it in sept, so the only other thing I can think of is the gasoline I purchased... So my question to everyone here... what do I do, I fell an empty void in my soul without a bike... :( If I have to clean the carbs, please link to FYI (I have searched and found nothing helpful about cleaning or taking apart) I have seen a post that said check the tubes (which I will as soon as I get to her house Friday) I am also going to get a new rubber tube for the carb air vac, one of mine popped off (left front side) and it seemed short since I couldnt put it back on, so I'll get a new tubes and make it longer so it's not super tight... What else? Also, I believe the bike runs LEAN... I have a blue elbow coming out of the engine, bike shoots off blue flames when rpm is lowering and during shutoff with a PUFF, bike has a HD exhaust with white porceline (or looks) covering the point where the exhaust attaches to the header? Btw, names Alan :) from Chicago |
|
Title: Re: New Post by wolfmrp on 03/16/10 at 23:08:39 Welcome to the forum. Some of the people on here are way smarter than me and I am sure you will get other advice soon. First off, the search on this site defaults to 1 week. If you search for something go to the search tab and change the default to "all posts". You will get much better results. Try running the bike on prime. The petcocks on these bikes are known to clog and running it on prime can tell you if that is the problem. You might also try putting a little seafoam in the tank. If something is sticking intermittently or just slightly gummed up that may help. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/16/10 at 23:14:04 I actually always run it on prime, and just for shits and giggles I switched it to "res" to see if it fires up (didn't) and then tried "on" and no go either. I know about the one week thing, still didn't help me |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/16/10 at 23:34:50 Howdy So you run on prime, 1st step done. check your vac line for gas, since you run in prime, go ahead and take it off. plug the vac port on the carb. a screw in a short bit of hose will do. blue pipe most likely means it's running lean. if your jets are way over spec and running way rich, it will do the same but very unlikely. So I think you're lean, but a carb clean could fix you right up. In the tech section at the top is an index. 5th post down is Carbs, Jetting, & Exhaust, towards the bottom is carb cleaning. Now when you say it's jerking, do you mean you twist the throttle and a minute later it takes off suddenly? If so, you got a sticky slide. need I say it? carb clean. but you can fix this up with a little seafoam, pour about an ounce into your tank. hell, drain your carb, fill it up with seafoam and let it sit overnite. drain the carb, pour the seafoam into the tank (waste not) put it in prime and away you go. You hearing any odd noises? I won't go into depth cause you don't have enough miles to worry yet. but clanking around the oil filter is trouble. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/16/10 at 23:54:01 Vers, as I said, the carb was just cleaned, I barely put 950 miles on it, would it get that bad already? I dont have a problem cleaning it if I was at my house... note... this is a friends house... (girl, hint hint...) check your vac line for gas, since you run in prime, go ahead and take it off. plug the vac port on the carb. a screw in a short bit of hose will do. Take what off? which vac port... lol pics would do a MARVELOUS job... sorry new to bikes :) ask me about computers and I'll give you an answer As far as the jerk goes, I believe it's a back fire, right after it goes past that initial loss of power I get a pop... drain the carb (as in disconnect and crink the hose and run the engine?) pour in seafoam, leave overnight (with almost full tank of gas or no?) Sorry, I want to get specifics before I go off and start doing things I know nothing about :) Plus I dont want to seafoam my friends neighborhood, they'll get mad |
|
Title: Re: New Post by jlsmedic on 03/17/10 at 00:34:20 If the bike sat for a while i would also go with a carb clean...its even better if you do it at a chicks house.....girls think guys working on their hogs is hott!!!! Second have you ever pulled the plug out to look at it? if you did run some bad gas through it... the plug could be mucked up some. thats the first two suggestions Im shure that will fix either one of, if not all of your problems. Follow Lancer's post on carb adjustment it works perfectly. dont fret... bikes just take a little more TLC some times.... it'll be running in no time. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/17/10 at 00:40:58 32342B353D3C313B580 wrote:
yea, shame savage is not a hog, it's more like a premature pig :) See, I don't know which plug I should be pulling, also the vac tube is off, gotta get that fecker on first :( |
|
Title: Re: New Post by jlsmedic on 03/17/10 at 01:14:28 The spark plug.... and while you have the "premature pig" apart just take the carb off and clean it. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by LANCER on 03/17/10 at 05:25:34 Hey dude, Welcome to the forum, but sorry for your trobles. You said " right after it goes past that initial loss of power I get a pop... " . This sounds to me like your carb is having moments of fuel starvation which leads to a very lean condition and results in power loss and backfire. Possible causes are: -Petc0ck is failing and intermitantly shutting off fuel. -vac line from petc0ck needs replacing, and causes the same type of issue mentioned above -carburetor passageways for all fuel circuits, but primarily the pilot jet circuit, are clogged or clogging. I know you said the carb was cleaned just 950 miles ago, but HOW WELL was it cleaned ? There are several very tiny passageways in the carb that must be clear for it to function properly and if they are clogged then it makes your day very frustrating. I suggest that you remove the carb and TOTALLY disassemble it (except for the butterfly valve/rod/throttle control assembly, since this is not involved with the problem) . Take out every single screw, jet, washer, oring, spring, etc and check them for damage or crud, and clean them well. Get yourself a couple of cans of carb cleaner spray and some tiny wires, like safety wire, and make sure every hole in the carb is clear. There is a brass tube that comes down into the float bowl from the carb body and it has a tiny hole in the very end and a wire should go in about 2" if it is clear, and it also has 2 tiny holes on each side of the tube. There is an air intake on the front (filter side) of the carb that goes into the pilot system; check/clear. Take off the little 3 screw cover on the right side of the carb and carefully remove the diaphram & spring. Going into the hole inside just slightly off center to the right is a hole that needs to be check/clear. Some carbs have a small jet in there and some don't. If yours does then check/clear the jet. This hole is connected with the choke assembly/hole, so pull out the assembly and check/clear. There is also a very tiny hole that is located where the diaphram rubber tab is and it goes from there into the carb throat on the engine side of the carb. When you remove the top of the carb and large diaphram/slide assembly, you will find several holes going down into the carb body. These are larger than the others we have checked. There will be at least one jet in a hole but usually 2 jets are installed; one large and one small. check/clear. Go through every hole you can find and check/clear by spraying the carb cleaner through all of them. If the spray does not come out somewhere in the carb then it is clogged. Sometimes when you spray into a hole it will come out in more than 1 place. WEAR FACE PROTECTION WHEN SPRAYING...it is not unusual for the spray to come back on your face. The pilot air adjusting screw, when removed, should have a little spring, washer and oring on the pointy end. If not then check in the hole and remove them. They are easy to loose so be careful. They must all be on the screw or it will not function properly. The oring will get hard and break with age so check that it is good and pliable. check/clear the hole. Spray it deep inside; there is more than 1 exit. Of course, when spraying you need to have the little red tube on the spray nozzle for getting the spray into the little holes. I'm sure you know but I'm just covering the bases. Reassemble with good clean parts/gasket/orings and it should work for you. Set the pilot air adjusting screw (right side of carb) at 1.5 turns from full closed position. full closed by turning clockwise until it is seated...do it gently so not to damage the brass screw, then turn counterclockwise for 1.5 turns. This is a starting point for tuning the low throttle range of idle-1/4 throttle. Turn CW & CCW 1/4 turn at a time to find the point where you get the highest rpm, then readjust the idle adjusting screw for proper idle rpm. I think I have covered it, but if you have more questions just ask. If you need jets or bowl gasket then PM me, or if you have a good local dealer get them there. If they have them in stock then its quick and easy. If they need to order ask how long to get them. If its 2-3 wks then PM me for them. If you want to do the white spacer mod then we can go over that. There is another post here somewhere where I explained that procedure and tools required. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by jlsmedic on 03/17/10 at 05:35:02 Technical tips under the heading "tuning a stock LS650 carb" great post and even better info! |
|
Title: Re: New Post by bill67 on 03/17/10 at 05:35:25 7D73647965737873160 wrote:
I've been motorcycling for over 40 years I never run the carb dry,I put Sea Foam in the gas it keeps he inside of the carb lubed.You don't want the inside of carb to dry out. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Routy on 03/17/10 at 05:52:20 Did I see where you should install a decent fuel filter inline before ever letting any gas into your newly cleaned carb ? As far as the battery is concerned, either the battery was junk when it went into storage, or way low on water, or you were not using a genuine "maintainer float charger" (smart charger) that holds 13.2-4 maximum voltage after the battery gets to full charge. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/17/10 at 05:59:39 0E030C0107105055620 wrote:
Lance thanks for the info I should mention, Friday is the latest the bike can be there, and I dont know anyone with a van/pickup... if i can get it to my house (40miles) and work on it there I'll be glad to take my time, but it's a time constraint. I really am wondering if its as simple as that vac line being off, it's very possible. I'll shoot down there tonight and try to get it on, it's a simple fix and if it gets me home to work on the rest I'll take it ANY day. As far as how good was it cleaned, I'd expect nothing less than detail from my buddy, his wife rode the bike before me and he cleaned it again when he was doing the plug replacement. Can I make a request? Can somone take a picture of a carb and label everything, this would be useful for all the newbs that don't know what things are (yes I am aware of the carb cleaning post) I am referring to while it's on the bike still, which tube is which and so froth, would make it easier |
|
Title: Re: New Post by LANCER on 03/17/10 at 06:00:24 You could also have a "short" somewhere that has developed and is draining the battery in spite of the trickle charger. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/17/10 at 06:06:07 0F020D0006115154630 wrote:
thought about that too, but I watched my headlight as I tried to fire her up, it barely changed color from the bright yellow/almost white, battery doesn't look drained at all. 36392338242231333B3522500 wrote:
I think it was crap, looked a couple years old, 68$ fix for the new battery, less trouble and drama, worth the money |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Routy on 03/17/10 at 06:50:17 Quote: I really am wondering if its as simple as that vac line being off, it's very possible. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you were running on "prime", you were bypassing (eliminating) every part of the vacumn operated shutoff system. So if the fuel is getting thru the screen in the petcock, you were getting full fuel to the carb. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/17/10 at 07:05:29 5C5349524E485B59515F483A0 wrote:
ok, so that eliminates that... darn it! I might be able to go out there today and pull the carb off, take it home, clean and then come back friday to put it back on... how long does it take to pull off the carburator? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Yonuh Adisi on 03/17/10 at 07:13:50 5856415C40565D56330 wrote:
ok, so that eliminates that... darn it! I might be able to go out there today and pull the carb off, take it home, clean and then come back friday to put it back on... how long does it take to pull off the carburator?[/quote] That is a tricky question, because you have to pull off the tank as well. I personally also pull the battery box out, it makes it much easier to get the carb out. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/17/10 at 07:16:26 wished there was more sunlight in the days... I really am limited to time, I almost want to take a chance and try to ride it home, and if it dies have insurance tow or take a pickup from menards |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Boule’tard on 03/17/10 at 07:34:56 Since the carb is a pain to remove, I'd try to do several things at once. A good long soak in one of those carb-bath-in-a-can things will get crud out of many nooks and crannies that may have been missed on the 1st cleaning. The "white spacer mod" can be done. Undo the top of the carb and that little clasp that holds the white spacer (which holds the needle down in a lean position). Take out the white spacer, shave it down to 1/2 thickness and replace. This mod will cure much of the backfiring and hot running that's blueing your header pipe. The screws for the bowl can be replaced with allen head screws so the bowl will come off easy when you rejet (see Lancer or JetsRus.com for jets). |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/17/10 at 10:03:30 3B362C353C2D382B3D590 wrote:
What's carb bath in a can? I will do the white spacer mod as I'm at it :) thanks anything else worth doing as long as I'm there? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Yonuh Adisi on 03/17/10 at 10:12:33 36382F322E3833385D0 wrote:
Carb bath in a can is carb cleaning fluid in a regular can instead of a spray can. It usually comes in a kit with the fluid and a basket. You place the carb in the basket and submerge it completely in the fluid for a period of time. I don't know any brand names for the stuff though so I can't help you out there. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/17/10 at 10:43:00 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accessoriesShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Chemicals&fromType=accessories&fromString=search&parentId=17-10&filterByKeyWord=carb¤tPage=1&navValue=100903&categoryNValue=100017&fromWhere=&itemId=903-10&displayName=Carburetor+Cleaner any recommendations guys? Berryman/1 gal. B-9 carburetor and parts cleaner with basket <- in stock, all the others are not |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Yonuh Adisi on 03/17/10 at 10:49:08 The only problem with using a carb bath is the rubber seals in the carb. You need to be sure to remove them before submersion because the cleaner will eat them up. I've never actually used an actual carb bath but that is what I have heard from others who have. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Boule’tard on 03/17/10 at 10:57:30 Carb baths (at least when I last did it) can be found under the brand names 'gunk' and 'gumout.' I was totally puzzled by a poor-running XR200 before I dunked the carb overnight.. problem solved. Yonuh Adisi is right about the rubber parts.. be sure to remove them or at least check the label and make sure they won't dissolve. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Routy on 03/17/10 at 12:07:44 I don't know this carb very well, except for doing the white spacer mod, (which BTW turned out fantastic) but others here know how hard/easy it is to get the "main jet" out. The way you describe the problem, I would almost bet my last nickle that there is a chunk of junk stuck in the main jet, or at least floating near it. It mite save R&Ring the carb. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/17/10 at 12:24:09 2E213B203C3A292B232D3A480 wrote:
R&Ring? Rock and rolling? wooo In all seriousness I've also seen people boil their carburator, supposedly it does the same amount of work... boil it for 30 min in boiling water let dry and then clean off any mineral deposits (I was figuring I'd clean it afterwards with carb cleaner) Btw... somoeone should make a video of how to remove/clean carbs :P |
|
Title: Re: New Post by bill67 on 03/17/10 at 12:53:03 Sea Foam works wonders to clean a carb and you don't have to take anything apart. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/17/10 at 12:55:06 212A2F2F7574430 wrote:
really? but that's assuming your gas tank is almost full and that the bike fires up :P can I get seafoam from autozone? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Moofed on 03/17/10 at 13:03:32 Yeah, I think any auto parts store will have seafoam. Did you ever get some fresh gas from a different station? Remember to drain the bowl first! Edit: Here are labeled pictures of the carb: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1098869040 |
|
Title: Re: New Post by bill67 on 03/17/10 at 13:18:57 6E60776A76606B60050 wrote:
really? but that's assuming your gas tank is almost full and that the bike fires up :P can I get seafoam from autozone?[/quote] Your gas tank don't have to be full. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/17/10 at 13:36:18 2A2124247E7F480 wrote:
really? but that's assuming your gas tank is almost full and that the bike fires up :P can I get seafoam from autozone?[/quote] Your gas tank don't have to be full.[/quote] my point is that the seafoam would be very diluted and wouldn't it take a while to get it into the engine? Also, seafoam seems to be the FASTEST route, no offense to everyone else, but as I said, this isn't my house/garage, I dont want to be unwelcomed because I was working on my bike there... btw, I like the seafoam idea, some *insert racist comment here* was making fun of me and calling me a loser because my bike died, so I want to take the bike down the hill and start it up in front of their house as soon as they say loser! I'd be so happy |
|
Title: Re: New Post by bill67 on 03/17/10 at 13:49:44 If you know how to take your fuel bowl off,take it off and put a 1/2 ounce of Sea Foam in it and put it back on.Put it on prime and start it up you will have a strong mixture.Run it for 4-5 minutes and then let it sit over night.That should clean it up. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/17/10 at 14:10:54 I can always drain the gas a bit... I know how to take the cover off, Just dont want to be arsed :P if I dont have to |
|
Title: Re: New Post by bill67 on 03/17/10 at 14:31:50 Put it in the gas tank then. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/18/10 at 22:34:11 Ok, so today I went out there and worked on the bike a bit... few things... 1.) my air filter canister was filled with oil and the filter itself was drenched with it (no clue where it came from, yes it was oil.) 2.) For whatever reason when I took the main boot connected to the carburator, it also had some oil in/on it (I suspect from the air filter) which could have caused the problem to begin with. 3.) Battery died... NO CLUE why, brand new yuasa acid battery, ended up connecting a car battery to my bike to check and make sure the bike wasn't dead! 4.) Took the carb off, checked one of the tubes, there was oil in it.... 5.) Seafoam idea might have succeeded if my bike actually wanted to start and run (after 2nd try it gave up) So basically now I have a dead battery, a bike thats completely taken apart, a carburator and a finger burned by acid (accidently touched the battery after tipping which made it leak and then touched metal :) yay!) |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/18/10 at 23:00:40 when you over fill the oil, it blows out the crankcase vent into the airbox. There's a hose hanging down with a plug in it. pull the plug out and the oil will drain. oil drenched air filter won't let much air in. check the oil for gas, if gas then your petcock diaphragm failed. plug the vac line for now. battery? idk |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/18/10 at 23:05:52 I've missed this thread up 'till now... haven't gone through all the advice here but,... it sounds very much to me like your petcock is bad... Running on prime will allow gas to flow, but if the petcock diaphragm is torn, gas will flow down the vacuum line and cause havoc... 1. Test your petcock- here's instructions... http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1251932429 2. If you want to get seafoam into your carb, quickly,... disconnect the fuel line at the petcock, drain the line, and pour some seafoam into the line... then reconnect... it will quickly enter the floatbowl in undiluted form and get to work... But really,... consider the petcock, specifically the vacuum diaphragm, the main suspect... it's much more insidious than you can imagine... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/19/10 at 09:37:20 514255544B4640424916270 wrote:
The oil was changed by my mechanic buddy when he was replacing the plug, I can't imagine him getting it wrong and pouring too much, especially since he's been working on bikes for 5+ years... I asked him yesterday if he poured too much, he denied. How can I check the oil for gasoline? 5C4A5D40584D405B2F0 wrote:
Seafoam would work IF I got the bike fired up |
|
Title: Re: New Post by prechermike on 03/19/10 at 09:49:16 Quote, "How can I check the oil for gas?" Take the filler cap off and smell of it, that was what they told me. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/19/10 at 10:14:05 well, do you guys want me to drain some oil and sniff it like coke or light it on fire and see how fast it goes out... burning man :) in all seriousness, I know for sure that there was oil in the carb, I smelled it and it both reaked like gas and smelled like oil, I had my buddy taste it too, just for kicks (I already knew it was oil) |
|
Title: Re: New Post by prechermike on 03/19/10 at 10:21:34 6B65726F73656E65000 wrote:
I would sniff, not necessarily snort :). A little oil in the air box is not a real issue, as I understand it. There is a breather hose that vents there, I think. Gas in the crankcase is a whole different issue. Like was said usually comes from a petcock issue. Can make a real mess of an engine. I think I am telling you right, but if not someone will chime in soon enough! ;) |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/19/10 at 10:28:46 303E2934283E353E5B0 wrote:
Not intended as a accusation, just info. If it's over it'll blow thru. Even being at the top of the level and going down a steep incline could cause it. But pour a little gas in and definitely. yep, the only way is to sniff it, don't be standing in a puddle of gas when you do. best just to change it if the level has changes since you last filled it. the danger is running the engine with severely thinned oil. a little gas in the oil is normal due to choke to warm up. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/19/10 at 10:50:46 53405756494442404B14250 wrote:
Not intended as a accusation, just info. If it's over it'll blow thru. Even being at the top of the level and going down a steep incline could cause it. But pour a little gas in and definitely. yep, the only way is to sniff it, don't be standing in a puddle of gas when you do. best just to change it if the level has changes since you last filled it. the danger is running the engine with severely thinned oil. a little gas in the oil is normal due to choke to warm up.[/quote] I'm running on the cheap nuts you guys recommend, that reused oil... when bike is on stand it's 1/2 full in the little view on the engine, when straight it covers the view. The oil is somewhat new, changed in end of oct or begining of Nov. I'll check out the petcock too, problem is I'm really limited on time and what I can do, not my place, dont want to be a bother. By the way, how do you test the petcock when you cant start the bike? lol |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Boule’tard on 03/19/10 at 11:36:50 525C4B564A5C575C390 wrote:
Wait a minute, when the bike is plumb, the glass fills completely with oil? Way too full. The glass should be 1/2 covered when the bike is plumb, and nothing should show when the bike is on the sidestand. You either have gas leaking into the oil, or need to fire your mechanic. Quote:
Don't trust that thing.. either rebuild it per the recent instructions in the tech section, or remove and cap off the vacuum line, and just set it on 'pri' when running the engine.. until you get a manual petcock. In this mode you can "test" it by putting the gas line in a jar and make sure it flows gas in the 'pri' position and flows nothing in the 'on' position. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Yonuh Adisi on 03/19/10 at 11:37:33 414F5845594F444F2A0 wrote:
There's your problem, too much oil. You shouldn't see that much if any oil in the site glass when the bike is on the stand. Either gas has made it's way into the crankcase raising your oil level, or your mechanic friend unused to the Savage/S40 did not realize he had to check the oil while the bike is straight up. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/19/10 at 11:41:59 707E6974687E757E1B0 wrote:
The cheap shuff I use is definitely not recycled. Rotella Syn 5w40. If you're using cheap recycled sh!t, I didn't recommend it. OK, you're overfilling your oil, and if your mech friend filled it, he's overfilling too. The oil level should be checked with the bike straight up not on the side stand. There's a owners manual in the tech doc's, I suggest you get a copy and read it. At this point don't worry about the petcock, plug the vac port, run on prime. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/19/10 at 11:52:47 6F5958435E77525F455F360 wrote:
There's your problem, too much oil. You shouldn't see that much if any oil in the site glass when the bike is on the stand. Either gas has made it's way into the crankcase raising your oil level, or your mechanic friend unused to the Savage/S40 did not realize he had to check the oil while the bike is straight up. [/quote] He was the previous owner, had it for a year, very possible gas got in there, I doubt he'd overfill it... 1 more thing to check! 4D5E4948575A5C5E550A3B0 wrote:
The cheap shuff I use is definitely not recycled. Rotella Syn 5w40. If you're using cheap recycled sh!t, I didn't recommend it. OK, you're overfilling your oil, and if your mech friend filled it, he's overfilling too. The oil level should be checked with the bike straight up not on the side stand. There's a owners manual in the tech doc's, I suggest you get a copy and read it. At this point don't worry about the petcock, plug the vac port, run on prime.[/quote] Rotella, thats what I have/he used, he filled it up, I havn't touched the oil yet a single time, I'll drain it a little and see what happens. Vers, yet again, I mention :) Bike doesnt start... I am hoping cleaning out the carb will fix that though... I always run the bike on prime :P |
|
Title: Re: New Post by jabman on 03/19/10 at 13:20:25 its easy to see if its overfilled on flat ground the bike on its side stand and the bars over to the left, a tiny amount of oil should be visible in the oil window any more and its overfilled some people argue that a little overfill is ok but if the oil is way up the sight then you have a problem when i overfilled by mistake the bike refused to start took many attempts to start and died when idling and had visible smoke from the exhaust but it sounds more like the fuel tap is not working |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/19/10 at 16:23:54 i dont think it's meant to be this color http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/4540/51873588.jpg |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/19/10 at 16:31:15 1 more issue... one of the screws (of 3) holding the plate is .... completely destroyed (prior to me) how do I get it out? I have verified, carb was filled with oil, the diaphram had oil on it and under... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/19/10 at 17:39:08 Ok, so I got the 3 screw cover off, took some muscle (hammer) and a sharp flat head bit I made it from a philips to a flathead.... served it's purpose... now, where do I buy a new screw (althoug I can use the same screw, I dont think it'd be wise) My suspicions are confirmed, that diaphram also had oil in it |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/19/10 at 19:09:32 I don't know how the oil got in there, maybe down the needle jet. but you'll need some carb cleaner, spray will get the job done. blow out every passage. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/19/10 at 19:42:47 I have all clean now.... Couple things I noticed... the 2 little floaters... I took them off to clean inside there, and the jet (?) popped out... it looks similar to what you have in a faucet, looks like it's meant to spray evenly... Blue arrow green border - thats what fell out, looks like there should be a gromet/washer in the center of it, theres an indentation in it... Blue arrow RED border - I don't have that :-? mine has what looks like a phillips with a hole... http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/9136/34269961.jpg |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/19/10 at 20:09:58 the 2 little floaters... I took them off to clean inside there, and the jet (?) popped out... it looks similar to what you have in a faucet, looks like it's meant to spray evenly... That's the float valve, take the screw out and pull that out and clean the screen on top. Blue arrow green border - thats what fell out, looks like there should be a gromet/washer in the center of it, theres an indentation in it... No washer just the valve. Blue arrow RED border - I don't have that :-? mine has what looks like a phillips with a hole... Idk what that is, but you need one... I guess. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1191899985 |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/19/10 at 20:29:58 http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/3112/56443863.jpg That indent should be empty? http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/8282/55331732.jpg See, not there? do not all have them? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/19/10 at 20:47:31 The groove should get an oring and your thingy was broke off. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/19/10 at 20:51:22 766572736C6167656E31000 wrote:
Where can I get an O-Ring for it? http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=2681 I found that on market but ebay, apperantly their site is cheaper, I know that Lancer sells the jet kit, but this seems to have more for a 10 $ more... I also have a different pilot air screw, it's flat not pointy... no oring or spring either.. What's the 'thingy' and could that be part of the problem why my bike doesnt want to run properly? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/20/10 at 00:18:17 Not sure where it goes but it sticks down into the gas. so instead of gas you're getting air at the wrong time. don't know if you can replace it. I had hoped never to find out. I got a nitrile oring kit from harbor freight, so just get one that fits. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/20/10 at 09:06:33 Ok guys, so I guess the question is, do I buy a new carb or do I try to use this one? I guess if I'd buy a new one I'd look for one with the K&N filter that's been jetted already |
|
Title: Re: New Post by jabman on 03/20/10 at 13:16:43 i would strip that one down as per the instructions in the tech section checking every seal and rubber diaphragm. If lots of seals and diaphragms are no good i would not bother cleaning it and look for a replacement. but if its ok shape i think it would clean up alright. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by bill67 on 03/20/10 at 13:24:56 303E2934283E353E5B0 wrote:
That why its a good thing to use Sea Foam in the your tank once in a while to keep the tank and carb lubed. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/20/10 at 13:35:55 seals look good, diaphrams look good, gasket looks good the only part making me worry is that brass tube that should be there |
|
Title: Re: New Post by ratz on 03/21/10 at 12:06:33 I could be wrong,but I believe that brass tube is the pick-up tube for the choke circuit. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/21/10 at 12:43:43 213227293D352132343D530 wrote:
So technically speaking, it should work... it's just going to be a little... less chokie... lol |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/21/10 at 21:48:59 so I bought a new/used carburator since I couldnt get a real answer if I needed that tube or not, 50+ ship... thanks! |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/21/10 at 22:43:18 Sorry Kero,.. I think Ratz might be right,.. but, I don't know how well it run without one... Anyway,.. now that you have one... in Chicago,(near sea level?), and with a K/N filter,...(I assume you either have or will get a non-stock muffler of some kind)... I would start with a 152.5 main jet and a 50 or 52.5 pilot... 2/3 thickness spacer on the needle jet... should put you in the ballpark... Replace the four top and bottom screws with allen heads for easy service in the future... Best of luck,... and hope you get to join in the Scavenger hunt soon... ;) |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/22/10 at 04:01:26 6375627F67727F64100 wrote:
theres no filter on it, I'll take the needle white spacer off my old one (already sanded down 2/3) I believe the jets are already replaced based on what I was told, as far as the 50/52.5 I have no idea what you're referring to... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by bill67 on 03/22/10 at 04:34:12 50-52.5 are the low speed jets |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/22/10 at 06:08:04 I'm completely lost... lol! |
|
Title: Re: New Post by bill67 on 03/22/10 at 06:13:59 Those are the numbers on the low speed jets the 52.5 is richer than the 50. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/22/10 at 06:23:43 212A2F2F7574430 wrote:
Yes, I know that, but looking at the FAQ of which to set, and then how to set it I got completely lost... the one thing missing from the faq on rejetting is a picture of a carb and which to change... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/22/10 at 12:27:11 the carb is an '88 with the bigger jets :) |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/22/10 at 23:25:24 Ok, so I put the carb on today, everything looked good... connected battery, died... weird... 'jumped' it off my car directly, *ignition*.... puf puf purrrff pufff... thats a good sign... again... .purrrr puff puf pum pum pum... running... dies... FU#K... again... pur y....e..... fu.... Checked the oil at this point... leaned towards middle and checked, above center of eyepeice, poured some out and notice a HUGE wet spot (nope, didn't piss myself) apperantly gas poured into the air box... but how... I was thinking about the dilema, and I wonder if it was related to the brass tube somehow |
|
Title: Re: New Post by jabman on 03/23/10 at 00:36:11 this is a real process of elimination 1 when upright on level ground the oil should be between the top of the sight glass and the higher of the two lines. (supposed to be within the two lines but after you have run it for abit, as you carnt run the engine it should be a little over) 2 there are two hoses dangling down under the air box, on the underside of the bike. put a container under them and squeeze the tips, to open the hole, and see what comes out, should be a little bit of black oily goo, if fuel is dripping from the airbox it should come out, check your air filter is ok. 3 Have you checked your petcock? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/23/10 at 08:25:19 5853505F535C320 wrote:
1. It's about right now, it was way over before. 2. I have 1 black hose dangling from the box with a cap/nut over it, the other hose seems to go nowhere and is right in back of the engine on the foot brake side. 3. My petcock seems fine, yet again, can't really test it without the bike running |
|
Title: Re: New Post by jabman on 03/23/10 at 09:41:12 the one to the foot brake is the switch cable most likely there are hoses that dangle from the air box to drain the stuff that comes out |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/23/10 at 11:02:14 it's a tube hanging down, behind it, right behind the tranny |
|
Title: Re: New Post by jabman on 03/23/10 at 15:51:12 hmmmm that mabe the battery breather tube you have got to make sure there is no fuel in the air box and the filter is dry make sure the petcock is good remove the vac hose and see if its dry if the engine is flooded you need to remove the plug and let it dry out if theres fuel in the air box then either the petcock is bust or the float valve in the carb is playing up most likely due to bits in the fuel |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/23/10 at 16:03:58 not exactly why theres gas in the airbox, I'll get my new carb and I'm POSITIVE it'll work, thanks though. Alan |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/27/10 at 18:54:58 ok, so I replaced the carb, sparkplug (was dirty), air vac tube, connected bike to my car, started, set idle correctly and everything looked good. Put the bike back together, started it up again using car, great, everything seems good! Reinserted battery hooked up... ran and died... it would sputter... puff puff and die... I couldnt add throttle otherwise it would stall/sputter and die... didn't seem like petrol was getting to the carb at all (but it was) looked at oil (Per skip) and it was too high, drained it a little and same problem... few more tries on start and it would start and die... which led to the battery dying... so what I'll do tomorrow is try the battery again (it's charging overnight) replace the petrol (drain old, pour new) not sure what else there is tbh... On a good note, the owner of the place where the girl is staying has a Yamaha 750cc bike in his garage with 2300miles, wondering what it is and if its worth taking (buying) from him... I dont know what it is, all I know it's missing a throttle cable, its a kick start, carb is hard inside (may need new carb or rebuilt) below are pics, maybe you guys can tell me what it is and if its worth an investment... http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/2779/img0109nw.jpg http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/6737/img0108am.jpg http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/5198/img0107du.jpg http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/5776/img0106if.jpg http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/2932/img0105c.jpg http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6459/img0104yn.jpg |
|
Title: Re: New Post by bill67 on 03/27/10 at 19:00:46 As far as I know Yamaha never make a 750 2 cycle and thats a 2 cycle,It looks like a twin.Suzuki made a 500 twin 2 cycle. I think thats a 350. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/27/10 at 19:05:51 Engine says 750cc Speedo says Yamaha Tank says Yamaha Gas caps says Yamaha :) NEXT! |
|
Title: Re: New Post by bill67 on 03/27/10 at 19:19:55 Is that a twin? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/27/10 at 19:19:57 4C42554854424942270 wrote:
Ok, see http://img195.imageshack.us/i/img0108am.jpg/ it says oil and 750cc kinda looks like http://classic-motorbikes.net/images/gallery/12325.jpg or http://classic-motorbikes.net/images/gallery/12343.jpg I saw two spark plugs... Also, side of gas tank says YAMAHA, it's plastic word not painted on |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/27/10 at 19:25:04 Looks like a Yamaha dual purpose to me... 350ccc max.... ...looks more like a 74' dt250 to me... It's a 2 stroke, may not be street legal in your state... would need a lot of work,..lots... Would make nice wall art... :-?... http://www2.yamaha-motor.fr/actu/IMG/jpg/ym50_doc-10-dt250.jpg |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/27/10 at 19:26:42 4254435E46535E45310 wrote:
Engine block says 750 :-/ Exhaust is on other side, doesnt have that fender sticking out, also lettering is different Lots of $ or time? time I can give, and some $ |
|
Title: Re: New Post by bill67 on 03/27/10 at 19:32:52 750cc of oil I read it on there |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/27/10 at 19:33:58 616A6F6F3534030 wrote:
what's 750cc of oil? it says oil 750cc |
|
Title: Re: New Post by bill67 on 03/27/10 at 19:36:05 I think thats how much the oil injection will hold |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/27/10 at 19:36:32 No way is it a 750 yamaha with an upswept pipe... I think Bill's right,... 750cc oil... it's maybe a 250cc engine... Lots of time and money,... and if you have to ask us what it is,... you probably need more experience with bikes... maybe even have to hand machine some of the replacement parts... I couldn't do it... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/27/10 at 19:38:38 2A3C2B362E3B362D590 wrote:
see all the 250's I saw say 250 on the aluminum bars on the exhaust... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/27/10 at 19:42:59 then maybe 175cc or 350cc , or 125cc.... Just definitely not a 750cc... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/27/10 at 19:48:10 yea, engine seemed tiny for syaing 750, but speedo went up to 100... which made me thing... ok it's possible... I dont want anything smaller :( I want 750+, I was keeping an eye open for something I can play with |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/27/10 at 19:52:28 ;)... It was fun to look at... Thanks.. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/27/10 at 19:58:16 yea, now get to work trying to figure out the problem with the savage :( I'll see if we can pull out the yamaha from the garage tomorrow... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by RidgeRunner13 on 03/27/10 at 20:40:19 My bet is a 175 cc sold as an Enduro back in 1971. I believe the designation was a CT1. If you get the VIN numbers off the frame neck & post them, I'll see if someone on the Yamaha forum can identify it. The VIN will be a lot shorter than what we have now. 8-) |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/27/10 at 21:49:50 Yea, I can, I saw the vin when I was there, I'll grab it |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/27/10 at 23:07:59 Okay,... I just reread the thread from the start... Throw all logic, and past assumptions to the side, and carefully read this link... http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1251932429 I've had this problem twice on two Savages, and know the petcock and it's misery's intimately... If you can afford $30.00, just go ahead and buy the recommended Raptor 660 petcock and eliminate the possibility forever, and very likely fix your problem.. If money is too tight for that,... seriously and carefully follow the testing instructions to the letter... I'm 90% certain this will fix your problem, so do it... even if you think you've already eliminated it,.. do it again... Because if you are wrong,.. you'll kick your own ass forever tryin' to work this out... ...if I'm wrong,... it's only a simple test or a $30.00 investment,... and wouldn't you rather be pissed at me, than pissed at yourself?... Seriously,... this is your best likelihood for fixing your bike.. and trying other things, is just opening up the possibility of creating a second problem... Do it... ;)... Don't look at me like that... just do it... :-?... Kero,.. get this sucker running, so you can join the Scavenge hunt... ;)... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by miker on 03/28/10 at 04:56:53 313A3F3F6564530 wrote:
I agree- 750cc oil capacity. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 06:52:10 2630273A22373A21550 wrote:
I'll try again, but the problem isnt riding the bike, it's more... why doesnt it want to start... and continue running... and it doesn't matter what position the petcock is set ot (Res/Prim/On), but I have nothing to lose at this point, I can test it... cost's me to keep driving back and forth. Serowbot, what is the immediate fix so I can get it home? IF the issue is the petcock, is there any way to "patch" over the problem so it can ride 39.2 miles, so I can get home and work on it there? Alan |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 07:05:52 also, how can I test the alternator to make sure IT's working? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 09:38:52 Petcock is not leaking, nor did the bike run any better... in fact.. died just like before :( I sucked on the tube, nothing came out and suction was there... battery is fully charged, im draining the gas right now, going to replace it just for shits and giggles... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 10:00:11 the carb is flooded... that might be the issue, my airbox is full of petrol again. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/28/10 at 10:02:03 555B4C514D5B505B3E0 wrote:
Ok, so you gotta new2u carb, one that's been sitting in a unknown condition for who knows how long. We're back to square one. add seafoam, let sit. try again. since you had the carb in your hands... did you clean it before? what jets are in it? how is the idle mixture screw set? I think the petcock is a mute issue, you got it set to prime, pull the hose and plug the port. remember to return it to "on" when you quit messin' with it. BTW, there's still gas in the tank? Cause I'd hate to tell to put the bike back in the box and return it to the store. [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif] |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 10:23:06 657661607F7274767D22130 wrote:
Ok, so you gotta new2u carb, one that's been sitting in a unknown condition for who knows how long. We're back to square one. add seafoam, let sit. try again. since you had the carb in your hands... did you clean it before? what jets are in it? how is the idle mixture screw set? I think the petcock is a mute issue, you got it set to prime, pull the hose and plug the port. remember to return it to "on" when you quit messin' with it. BTW, there's still gas in the tank? Cause I'd hate to tell to put the bike back in the box and return it to the store. [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif][/quote] Carb is clean, was cleaned by the seller before he sent it to me, and I cleaned it after Idle screw is in all the way The screw thats opposite of choke is set to 2 turns out gas, yes there is gas Seafoamed already once, added seafoam yesterday before I left, and I just added some while adding new petrol tested petcock, had hose plugged and bought little caps for the carb end, sucked on hose got no gas in my mouth... bike also did not start up/run any better. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/28/10 at 10:47:34 Thanks for the update, lotta sh!t going down. Do you get a thumpa thumpa before she quits or just a gasp? Rackin' my brain for all the fuel delivery checks... put a cup under the carb and open the drain valve, petcock to prime, should flow good. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 10:57:19 63706766797472707B24150 wrote:
doesnt even sound like its about to fire up, just turning over. flowing good checked that too, just to verify that gas is going. took out the spark plug, cleaned it off (brand new plug) just in case. took the vac line off entirely, and capped it at both ends (in case hose is cracked) anything else? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/28/10 at 11:12:24 check spark |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/28/10 at 11:22:52 was the air filter drenched? some say that causes the fibers to glue together run w/o for testing |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 17:15:07 vers per our discussion, i did everything except 2 things (check actual amount of spark and compression) I dont think its either... my airbox got flooded with gas AGAIN! not sure why though... which is pissing me off even more. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/28/10 at 17:20:15 airbox flooding (be glad it's the airbox and not the crankcase) check the float valve if you drain has a nipple, attach a clear tube and run it up along side the carb. turn the petcock to prime and the level should come up to the gasket on the bowl and stop. If it don't stop, check the float setting, check the valve. Or rap on the side of the carb with a plastic handle screwdriver. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 17:30:40 not sure what you mean about with the clear tube... yes there is gas in the carb, floats are good, if I unscrew the screw at the bottom of floater gas comes out... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/28/10 at 18:19:27 clear as in see thru |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 18:22:14 yea, but connect where? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 18:41:54 fyi, bike is at my house, in my garage :) I can now work on it freely and daily |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/28/10 at 19:10:55 Only two ways gas can get from the tank to the air filter... one is down that vacuum line,... two is past the float system... ... unless there's a monkey hiding in there, it's one of those two... As a little side note,... with that much gas moving around during all that cranking, you may have washed the cylinder walls clean of oil... that will cause loss of compression and no start... ...pull the spark plug and squirt a teaspoon or so of oil in there... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 19:18:38 5D4B5C41594C415A2E0 wrote:
1. gas is going through the PIPE that is connected from carb to the airbox (black tube with O clamps) I'm 100% sure of that because the whole pipe is wet... 2. Ok, I pulled everything off the bike (tank included) I will buy a new O ring for the speedo tomorrow so it stops leaking, also I am going to check the spark tomorrow per vers. I will drain old oil from engine and add new oil (was planning to do so) same goes for gas (just to be sure it isn't the seafoam causing the issue) I will add a teaspoon of oil into the hole per your recommendation |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 19:46:26 an fyi/update I took apart the carb again, verified that the floater floats and the plunger plunges and moves up and down... removed the main jet and cleaned it out, I cant remove pilot the screw part is bad and I cant unscrew Alan |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/28/10 at 20:19:22 just to keep the gas flowing in the right direction, keep the front elevated a little. as long as you find it in the airbox it's ok. fuel, fire and air is all you need. what you might try is starter fluid or wd40. wd's propellant is propane. leave the gas off, a squirt of starter in there, then start it. a few thumpa's would confirm fire. we know you got gas, just too much of it. another thing i might consider, don't use the starter button. the m/c battery needs to be strong to light her up. use the car battery to jump the starter only. You'll need a friend if you do that. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 20:33:16 140710110E0305070C53620 wrote:
Front is elevated just a bit (fortunately) Bike DOES fire up... well did... it stopped and thats when it started filling up the airbox I have been running the bike off my car, killed my battery too many times It really doesnt make sense, I had one of the savage guys on the phone and he heard it and said wtf?! bike was idling STRONG, sounded perfect... but as soon as I added gas it'd backfire... (yes, backfire, I got the big puff of seafoam smoke come out of the airbox) that happened a few times and then it didnt want to run at all... I'm freaking confused as hell... where do I spray that wd40? would ignition spray work better? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/28/10 at 21:23:15 6E60776A76606B60050 wrote:
there's a lot of if's running thru my mind... you got it idle... idle circuit on carb ok give it a twist and POW a true back fire, very rare. (how exciting!) Now it can be all carb related, you said the main was a 165, put the 145 in, i'd go for a 150, but you got the 145. My thinking is as soon as you gave it a little more 'gas' it threw up and died. Cause it was way too much gas, literally. You got a stock dyna, others have said that they didn't rejet from stock when they put it on. So you're running way too rich except for the idle jet which is an 45? either stock or smaller. looks weird to have a really big main and a small idle. check for the white spacer too, if it's gone that'll act to increase the jet size too. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 21:33:10 445740415E5355575C03320 wrote:
there's a lot of if's running thru my mind... you got it idle... idle circuit on carb ok give it a twist and POW a true back fire, very rare. (how exciting!) Now it can be all carb related, you said the main was a 165, put the 145 in, i'd go for a 150, but you got the 145. My thinking is as soon as you gave it a little more 'gas' it threw up and died. Cause it was way too much gas, literally. You got a stock dyna, others have said that they didn't rejet from stock when they put it on. So you're running way too rich except for the idle jet which is an 45? either stock or smaller. looks weird to have a really big main and a small idle. check for the white spacer too, if it's gone that'll act to increase the jet size too.[/quote] Running too Rich, yes, I had flames when I was able to actually rev it... so too rich. I'll cehck the jets tomorrow and let you know the sizes, I can tell you main jet under float bowl, I cannot remove the little one, is there any way other than reading the jet to tell size? can I take a pic, will you know? white spacer mod done, I actaully am using my diaphram from the original carb it did the same thing with the smaller jet... exactly same thing.... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/28/10 at 21:47:20 2D23342935232823460 wrote:
I think you can leave the idle jet alone, it's working. undo the white spacer mod and check where it goes, on top or bottom. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 21:51:10 2A392E2F303D3B39326D5C0 wrote:
I think you can leave the idle jet alone, it's working. undo the white spacer mod and check where it goes, on top or bottom. [/quote] how do I undo the white spacer mod? not as if I can un sand it... lol... Ok, vers, do us BOTH a favor, and show me what jets are what, it'll save us a LOT of trouble... the idle jet I classify as the jet that is opposite of the carb.... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/28/10 at 22:01:31 4B45524F53454E45200 wrote:
The white spacer should be a little under an 1/8" tall. or stack #4 washers together. The main is the big one hanging low in the bowl almost dead center. forget about the rest. yeah I could look thru a dozen or so threads and find a good pic for you, but sometimes you just gotta say I'm not your walking manual. You should read these for yourself anyway. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 22:40:18 4E5D4A4B54595F5D5609380 wrote:
The white spacer should be a little under an 1/8" tall. or stack #4 washers together. The main is the big one hanging low in the bowl almost dead center. forget about the rest. yeah I could look thru a dozen or so threads and find a good pic for you, but sometimes you just gotta say I'm not your walking manual. You should read these for yourself anyway.[/quote] I've read it all tbh, but everyone says this or that and then it sounds entirely different... the main jet is half the size of the larger one in the bowl? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/28/10 at 22:54:49 47495E435F4942492C0 wrote:
You may have read it, but you don't really understand. That's ok. The one guy to listen is lancer. Got's facts down straight. The main jet is the big one, down low, center of the bowl. Idle jet is off to the side somewhere. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/28/10 at 23:14:09 7A697E7F606D6B69623D0C0 wrote:
You may have read it, but you don't really understand. That's ok. The one guy to listen is lancer. Got's facts down straight. The main jet is the big one, down low, center of the bowl. Idle jet is off to the side somewhere.[/quote] I never said I understood, I am completely confused... Ok, where the big diaphram is, there are 2 jets... one big one that sits up high, and one small one that sits deep inside... float bowl, has 1 jet, is that main? Jet opposite of choke, that's idle, I know that one :P |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/28/10 at 23:56:43 clicky clicky,..here... http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1098869040 http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/Mikuni_101web.jpg http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/CarbBottomweb.jpg http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/JetsEtc01web.jpg |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/29/10 at 00:29:58 ok, so the pilot jet is the one I cant get out... the top is stripped |
|
Title: Re: New Post by serenity3743 on 03/29/10 at 13:46:57 Kerosene, in your reply #105 above you stated this: Idle screw is in all the way I'm thinking that might be your problem, if you're talking about the tiny brass screw recessed on the right hand side of the carb. If it is all the way in, you're not getting any air mixed with your fuel. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/29/10 at 14:33:06 574156414A4D505D17131017240 wrote:
it was, it actually ran best when it was mostly in, unscrewing up to 3.5 did not help |
|
Title: Re: New Post by crabpainter on 03/29/10 at 16:44:20 Have you considered purchasing a carb off ebay? I may have one floating around here somewhere. Might solve your problem... might not. I'll PM you if I find it. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/29/10 at 16:55:25 He's already bought one,... that's why I think it's the petcock... Same problem with two different carbs... :-?... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/29/10 at 19:04:51 4751465B43565B40340 wrote:
:'( I've done all your tests, theres no sign its the petcock |
|
Title: Re: New Post by jabman on 03/29/10 at 23:58:02 try removing the float bowl, put the carb onto the fuel line, something under it to catch fuel, with both vac holes blocked off turn it to prime. you should get a constant dribble that stops when you lift the float up and the valve stops the flow. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/30/10 at 03:05:05 Try what Jabman says,... with both vac holes blocked off turn it to prime. in fact, if I were you,.. I'd do all further carb testing with the vac line capped at both ends and the petcock set to prime... while you work this out... That would leave the floatbowl as the only possible place for the gas to be coming from... You can hook it back up when you know you're carb is running good... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/31/10 at 17:57:38 ok i drained the oil... reeks of oil |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/31/10 at 18:34:03 That's a hint from your petcock, "Hello, I'm broken... and I'm leaking into your oil?...... buy a Raptor and be done with it... This is the Raptor part no. 5LP-24500-01-00 2003 Yamaha Raptor 660 YFM660R buy it here... http://www.ronayers.com/Search/N/687/Criteria/5LP-24500-01-00&adv=5&kw... I've been telling you for 7 pages... By now,.. I'd think you'd be willing to buy one just to shut me up... ...you can thank me later.... :-?... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/31/10 at 18:59:25 I dont want a new petcock!! darnit... grrrr... ok.. fine... I hope you're right.... On a silly sie note, who can take a picture of the nuts on the bottom of the bike next to thr oil drain... theres 2 nuts on the right hand side I dunno if they're on right... when I was looking at them they looked 1/8th off the engine |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/31/10 at 19:08:00 I'll down on some teets but nuts?!?!?!? |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 03/31/10 at 19:15:05 Hope you know I had to get off my butt for this... :-?... I'm only doing it 'cause you said you'll buy a petcock... :-?... ...it's really hard to hold the bike in the air with one hand and take a picture with the other... :-?... http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt82/serowbot/gtff-006.jpg?t=1270087995 |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 03/31/10 at 19:31:08 other side, the one with the 2 bolts |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 03/31/10 at 19:38:11 other side, think he's talking about the oil pressure ports http://verslagen.savageriders.com/images/Oil%20flow.jpg |
|
Title: Re: New Post by jabman on 03/31/10 at 23:13:16 i got my raptor cheap on ebay |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/01/10 at 07:07:35 Ok, so I spoke to Michael yesterday (Vers) for a good... I'd say 4-5hrs... I have ordered a cam tensioner from him, new O ring for the speedo cable (no more leakage), ordered new raptop petcock (I'm still not convinced, but 30$ to prove me wrong is not a big deal), drained all my petrol from tank (looked clean, no debri, tank looks nice and clean inside), I have made new tubes for everything and have nice hose clamps holding everything down. if time permits today, I'll check out the valves today and see if I can get the exhaust welded on (the white putty sh!t is all gone) Wonder what's next |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/01/10 at 08:30:40 Hey Michael, I was thinking, I might just go the K&N air filter route, and get rid of that bloody airbox... this is after the issues are fixed... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/05/10 at 13:26:20 Vers I got the cam tensioner, I'll replace it in a bit, very nice shipping mate. I will test the carb today, I took a break for holiday, so I havn't checked it yet... I'll let you know the result. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/05/10 at 16:01:59 cam tensioner is one of the simplest things to do! for those who havnt done it, i highly suggest checking the cam tensioner and replacing it if required. Since I have the tank and everything else off I figured Id to the mod to get rid of the bloody speedo cable noise :) for those who don't know what it is. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1179104436 |
|
Title: Re: New Post by babyhog on 04/05/10 at 17:30:25 kerosene, thanks for posting on your progress. I haven't posted on this thread (can't offer any assistance), but I've been following along, and interested in the outcome.... good luck to you! So how did your original cam tensioner look? Did you measure it? I'm pushing 5000 miles, and figure I'll be checking mine sometime this summer. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 04/05/10 at 17:35:00 777475787A60190 wrote:
I'm at 23k,... still haven't checked it... :-?... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 04/05/10 at 17:41:06 3A393835372D540 wrote:
About 18mm out keep your ears open sero. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/05/10 at 17:53:51 im at 6700 and I was at 18mm (the point at which you should highly consider changing it I think 21mm is max) way I looked at is; "I'm down right now anyway, so might as well work on everything I can, and since this is one of those things that can give you a LOT more downtime" so... I spent some money... 70 for used (I think Michael refurbs them and makes modifications 130 for new (or 120) Additionally you get 10 if you send your old one back to him (Michael provides a prelabeld box to send it back to him! I was stunned!! so sending the part back costs you 0. Also, I don't know much about bikes, but I will say this, the new cam tensioner does tighten the chain A LOT, I remember the old tensioner made the chain wobble a little... the new one doesnt. Oh! YES before I forget... Michael told me to lay the bike down to do the cam tensioner, I took a pic so you guys can see (it's on my failphone I'll upload it as soon as I get to my office tomorrow) Also, as far as speedo goes, its really simple to do, and even if it doesnt work you loose 4 $ which isn't much. Hopefully Michael will get back soon, I will check valves... :) just another thing to make the buddy run better. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/05/10 at 18:39:44 5C52455844525952370 wrote:
Ok, I was going to do the light fix but the link was dead... so ... I ripped apart my light to see what could cause rattle (metal on metal) First, the little hoodie over the light, that has direct metal on metal... I took some electric tape and ran it across wherever there were marks for the light, I laid the tape there, just enough so it doesnt expose itself... next the housing for the light, it has direct metal on metal with the light, I put some of the rtv silicone on the housing where the light meets the housing and where the screws go in... cant hurt anything but might make the world to stop the rattle... Also, Michael advised the other way to fix is to put a rag in the light... I didnt feel comfortable with leaving a light next to something that gets really hot and where theres cables (regardless that they're not exposed.) Michael also made one more recommendation, tape the cables together, it will help with some rattle, since they hit against the housing. Now off to check my valves, woot woot |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 04/05/10 at 21:20:17 7876617C60767D76130 wrote:
oops :-[ am I embarrassed, I threw that box in to take up space. It's used. :D sorry for the confusion, gotta remember to tear off the old labels. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 04/05/10 at 22:24:34 check the float valve 1st carb in hand or on bike is ok hook it up to the tank. 2 ways to do this... with the bowl off, you can use your finger to hold the float up. turn the petcock to prime does it leak... no good. should hold it off let the float drop and bleed off some gas hope you put a catch pan under. ok, 2nd way with bowl on I'd take off the duct between the carb and airbox so you can see if it's flooding. take the drain plug out of the bowl close it off with your finger turn it to prime the carb should fill up and stop, check inside for flooding. if it don't either the float level is incorrect or you got a bad float valve. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 04/06/10 at 00:01:35 2F3C2B2A35383E3C3768590 wrote:
Always... at this point, I'm near paranoid.... I'll be contacting you soon... even if it's only preventative... I just hate pullin' that head cover.... My 302 ford mustang took 2 minutes for both sides!... My Metro (aka...Suzuki Swift) takes even less!... Geeez!... it's the worst part of a Savage!... ... if there's worse,... just don't tell me.... :-?... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/06/10 at 00:03:28 3E283F223A2F22394D0 wrote:
Always... at this point, I'm near paranoid.... I'll be contacting you soon... even if it's only preventative... I just hate pullin' that head cover.... My 302 ford mustang took 2 minutes for both sides!... My Metro (aka...Suzuki Swift) takes even less!... Geeez!... it's the worst part of a Savage!... ... if there's worse,... just don't tell me.... :-?... [/quote] serow.. its not the head... you take muffler off, right peg, detach clutch cable and then take the cam cover.. you'll need a new gasket for sure either way... NOTE: NO HEAD REMOVAL Michael says you have to take the oil filter out... I didn't and I'm fine :P |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/06/10 at 00:15:15 Ok, so a tiny update... I put the light assembly back together... no more rattle from it either... :) Checked valves and reconfigured them to .004 (.003 to .005 is spec, so I chose middle.) Cleaned up some wiring that was annoying me and was visible, cleaned up the cam cover, and misc things like that... :) fun times Baby hog/ anyone else, if you have any questions please feel free to ask... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by jlsmedic on 04/06/10 at 00:23:39 Kero... I have a sneaky suspision that after you finish and get this darn thing driveable your gonna know how to rebuild the entire bike!!! |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/06/10 at 06:06:08 7C7A657B73727F75160 wrote:
to be completely honest, besides the things that I've done with Michael, I'm pretty confident I could do most things on it right now... as I was was telling Michael last night, yes it sucks that I'm down, but I'm glad because I'll be self sufficient. "give a man a fish, he'll be fed for a day, teach a man to fish he'll be fed for life" The only thing I have not really gone into is the head of the engine... but who know's I still have time before the raptor comes ::) |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 04/06/10 at 07:15:33 444A5D405C4A414A2F0 wrote:
Always... at this point, I'm near paranoid.... I'll be contacting you soon... even if it's only preventative... I just hate pullin' that head cover.... My 302 ford mustang took 2 minutes for both sides!... My Metro (aka...Suzuki Swift) takes even less!... Geeez!... it's the worst part of a Savage!... ... if there's worse,... just don't tell me.... :-?... [/quote] serow.. its not the head... you take muffler off, right peg, detach clutch cable and then take the cam cover.. you'll need a new gasket for sure either way... NOTE: NO HEAD REMOVAL Michael says you have to take the oil filter out... I didn't and I'm fine :P[/quote] I get that feelin' when I think about splitting the cases so I can mess with the tranny... just to clarify, kero had just done an oil change, so changing the oil or filter at this time was not warranted. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/06/10 at 18:17:04 574453524D4046444F10210 wrote:
Ladies and Germs, let me introduce you to todays episode of "WHAT IS NOT KEROS PROBLEM" today as our first contestent we kave kerosene's red savage (oooo ahhh goes the crowd) We test and tested and all ideas failed... including today testing the carb... by fail ofcourse we mean that it passed with flying colors... (claps audience) Thanks for playing WHAT IS NOT KEROS PROBLEM (cheers crowd) Ok bad news my puzzeld friend... floater works, tested both ways... when I ha the float bowl off and upside down, i pushed down (to open) on the bobber the gas would flow (slowly since it was upside down... but would flow) I then flipped the bugger right side up and held up (to close) petrol would not flow... maybe 1 or 2 drops here and there... but not to the extent of what I saw with the airbox... So I put the float bowl back on... took the drainplug off and ran on prim, would not overflow to the air vent side (tilted it a little just to be sure) then I would release the plug let it drain and see if it continues to flow heavly (does not) starts trickling like it did with the carb off entirely (which tells me that the carb is not overflowing...) I tried both a few times just to be sure... so what's left... the bloody petcock... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 04/06/10 at 19:24:31 errr so you had it apart, for the benefit of the crowd gathered about and cheering... what jets do you got? put it back together, say the magic word and let her rip. :o |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/06/10 at 19:34:57 4F5C4B4A55585E5C5708390 wrote:
erm I have I dunno... lol I've verified with them... 152 and 145? does that sound right... no... i dont remember, are you on aim?> |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/06/10 at 21:17:45 I made a booboo... more like crappity smackED UP! I put the oil filter on backwards... oops... shot a hole right through the oil cover |
|
Title: Re: New Post by JESPOKER4FUN on 04/06/10 at 21:30:01 What are you talking about? Blew a hole in the cover. Please show a pic of the oil cover. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/06/10 at 21:32:17 http://verslagen.savageriders.com/images/BurnPgh-burst_oil_cover.jpg looks exactly like that... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/06/10 at 22:43:40 You aint the first to play that game,.. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/06/10 at 22:56:41 425D5B5C41467747774F5D511A280 wrote:
Im going to try and get er' welded, just so she lasts long enough till I get a new one... I want to make sure she runs right... Oh i didnt mention, SHE FIRED UP RIGHT AWAY, Sounded really strong... for the 3 sec I had it running that is |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/07/10 at 06:30:22 so I was thinking... welding it might not be enough... so I'm going to get it welded and put some jbweld on the seam of the weld and oil cover and let it cure... that should help with the higer rev's on the engine |
|
Title: Re: New Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/07/10 at 07:17:38 You might be able to replace the cover for less than having it welded. Id bet on it. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by ero4444 on 04/07/10 at 09:37:54 man that sucks - I am gonna have to take a picture of the filter right-side in before I change it for the first time 3 seconds - obviously NOT thermal expansion, must be straight oil pressure from the pump. Wow. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Yonuh Adisi on 04/07/10 at 10:49:21 7F68752E2E2E2E1A0 wrote:
I do not mean to be critical, but how are ya'll putting it in backwards? The hole goes towards the engine. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/07/10 at 11:15:27 554A4C4B5651605060584A460D3F0 wrote:
I don't really pay for welding, and I am both getting it welded (I have put on JBWeld right now, it'll cure in an hr and I'll know if I like it or not, if I don't I'll pull it off get it welded and then JB weld it again) I am also getting a new one (used) KIT TO THE RESCUE... SAKARA is my parts guy from now on... any parts you need I'd get from him 20372A71717171450 wrote:
Know what, it's easy to do it right... theres a 1/2 in tube sticking out, put the tube in the hole... if you know how to have sex, you know how to put the filter on (lol... I'm bad at sex! Kidding... ;D) 5D6B6A716C45606D776D040 wrote:
I do not mean to be critical, but how are ya'll putting it in backwards? The hole goes towards the engine.[/quote] I just straight up crappity smacked up... period... didnt look |
|
Title: Re: New Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/07/10 at 11:18:36 I just straight up crappity smacked up... period... didnt look Ive seen that done at stop signs.... at least you didnt get hurt with this boo boo. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 04/07/10 at 11:28:53 I'm gonna start a new service... Mechanic Web Watcher, you do the work, I advise. :o Just one thing I gotta figure out... how to reach across the web and percussively adjust your perspective. ;D |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 04/07/10 at 11:39:52 6E7D6A6B74797F7D7629180 wrote:
I think I've felt a couple of those from you,... You're better at it than you think... ;)... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/07/10 at 11:56:41 657661607F7274767D22130 wrote:
You helped an insane amount :) but lets not count our chickens before they hatch, we're not 100% sure it will stay up when I rev... once we check that we can dance and celebrate... I'll track down the trojan distributer and you'll owe me a visit the next time something happens Like I said though in aim, all the other things we did made it run a lot better when it started up, actually sounded like a good bike... I bet those valves helped a lot EDIT: So I did the JBWELD, and it looks good... I used JB Stick weld and I would not recommend the liquid one, as you have a little less control over where it stays... ; IMPORTANT: THIS IS A TEMPORARY FIX MEANT TO GET YOU UP AND GOING, I DON'T KNOW IF IT WILL HOLD PROPERLY OR NOT, IF IT GETS IN YOUR HEAD BECAUSE YOU DID IT WRONG YOU'RE F***ED. Let EACH layer dry for 1 hr minimum! You have 5 min to use the JBweld before it hardens, so work fast! Inside I did 3 layers... first layer you roll it up into a snake thing and go across the inside crack... squeeze it an as deep as possible and clean up and leftovers (ha ha... get your mind out of the gutter) second layer you roll it up into a snake thing a little thicker this time, and do the same thing but follow across the corner (thats where it cracks.) make it nice and even and clean up extra thrid layer you cover the main layer and somewhat smooth it out so its not high in one spot and not in other... you might not want to, and dont need to, I did because I dont want to take a chance, if its even it also looks better (but who sees it) Outside I did 2 layers; first layer is meant for you to even it out a bit and to fill in the tiny cracks in the metal, best and easiest way to do this is again roll it up real small and go against the crack... so run your finger from the lower part to the higher part... this way it'll fill in everything... I can show in a picture what I mean... Second layer, just like on the other side, it's meant to cover the 1st layer to make sure any moisture or anything else doesnt get in or out... with the outside I added some more jb since theres a bigh height difference... if you add more its easier to make it look better... what I'll do is sand it down a little and put some clear coat or something over it so moisture doesn't get at it and so oil doesnt somehow eat away at the jb inside. Once i sand it down, I'll take a pic and show you guys how it came out se |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/07/10 at 16:47:28 GOOD NEWS So i fired up the beast! RUNS! was able to give it some throttle and it didnt die out.... it died out once, not sure why exactly, the rpms started dropping on idle and it gave out... weird.. BAD NEWS sounds like my chain is wobbling... no idea why it would, but I'll open er' up tomorrow and see whats goin on... bike is running SUPAAAAH rich... have afterfire when I start up, good 6 inch flame... but so far no gasoline in the airbox, I will either get the petcock tomorrow or friday *crosses fingers* so when it comes in I'll swap it out and see where it takes me I'll drain a little oil and sniff it like I'm 10 and snorting pixie stix, hopefully no petrol smell.... Lets see, what else... ahh yes! my oil cover... its running to spec and actually doesnt look too shabby.. what I did was sanded the cover & weld with 100grit paper, and sprayed it with CLEAR engine paint... filled in the sandpaper scratches and loos better... I trust it a little more now that I saw it runs fine when under high rev... not sure if i'd trust it on a long ride though.... so, tomorrow I will do take off the cam cover and see whats going on |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 04/07/10 at 17:33:44 626C7B667A6C676C090 wrote:
Should have told you before, there's a little tab stuck in the bottom between the lock pawl and housing. Take it out after installing it. That little bit of plastic locks the plunger in so it's easy to install. pull it out and the spring will put tension on the chain. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/07/10 at 21:20:27 If you suspect gas in the oil, drain it. Costs almost nothing. You can try to lite some of the oil & see if it will burn. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/07/10 at 23:14:05 23302726393432303B64550 wrote:
Should have told you before, there's a little tab stuck in the bottom between the lock pawl and housing. Take it out after installing it. That little bit of plastic locks the plunger in so it's easy to install. pull it out and the spring will put tension on the chain.[/quote] lol im not an idiot :P i think the issue is valves, im resetting again sakara helped at 12am-130 |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Serowbot on 04/08/10 at 00:33:19 Yeah,... you're not an idiot,.. but I'm ordering one soon, and will make a mental note.... (pull the tab!..pull the tab!)... Kero,... the Raptor will fix you up... from there,.. it's just polish, and fine tuning... PS,.. you are one persistent, sucker!,... remind me of myself... ;)... PSS,... sorry 'bout the oil filter,... ...soon you'll be in the scavenge hunt... Peace, Bot... :-?... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/08/10 at 06:09:31 One would think that if one was installing a chain , errm, whats the word Im huntin here,, OH, TENsioner, one Might note, upon installation, whether or not it is actually TENsioning the chain... but,, ehh, maybe thats just me. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/08/10 at 07:06:28 4A5C4B564E5B564D390 wrote:
That ziptie thats folded over is so delicate, if you run your fingers across it, it'll fall out, so dont worry about it. I should get the raptor either today or tomorrow, once I do we'll find out... I need to reset the other 2 valves today, I'll start her up and see what happens... maybe I'll throw the seat on her just to see if she rides properly on revs (which she wasnt doing before) Yea, persistant, headstrong, I dont want this failure hanging over me... hahah 76696F6875724373437B69652E1C0 wrote:
it's actually pushing it away which it tensioning the chain |
|
Title: Re: New Post by Reelthing on 04/08/10 at 08:22:57 4D43544955434843260 wrote:
I'm a little late to this party - but I see where there's been some talk of carb cleaning and such - if the odd running continues after the petc0ck - don't know if they've been suggested but a couple of common places with the carb: 1) the washer under the main jet is gone - this is not good as it lets the needle jet tube jump up and down that causes some crazy rich situations to come and go 2) on cleaning the carb the slide has some type of oil put on it to help it - this acts about the same way as the slide starts to stick - it pushes all the oil - even wd40 - to the bottom of the bore, forms a ring and makes a sticky slide - the slide and bore need to be clean - not even greasy finger prints. This also makes for a crazy rich situation that comes and goes. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/08/10 at 09:06:51 it's actually pushing it away which it tensioning the chain Well, then,, sounds like its doin its Job,, as long as the teeth engage & it holds it out. Reelthing has offered up some of the little detail stuff easily overlooked. I hope you win this soon, man, its riding time. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/08/10 at 10:25:36 06313138203C3D3A33540 wrote:
I'm a little late to this party - but I see where there's been some talk of carb cleaning and such - if the odd running continues after the petc0ck - don't know if they've been suggested but a couple of common places with the carb: 1) the washer under the main jet is gone - this is not good as it lets the needle jet tube jump up and down that causes some crazy rich situations to come and go 2) on cleaning the carb the slide has some type of oil put on it to help it - this acts about the same way as the slide starts to stick - it pushes all the oil - even wd40 - to the bottom of the bore, forms a ring and makes a sticky slide - the slide and bore need to be clean - not even greasy finger prints. This also makes for a crazy rich situation that comes and goes. [/quote] 1. washer is there 2. everything is clean, no grease no finger prints... also issue started while riding and not after cleaning, I replaced the carburator so I know that the oil which was being sucked in before is not causing the issue 5E4147405D5A6B5B6B53414D06340 wrote:
The cam tensioner replacement was something Michael recommended checking while I was down and waiting for parts, mine was still tight and didnt have wobble in the chain... I did take the cover off last night and checked the tensioner and verified its good and chain is tight.. I think its the valves, and I'll find out tonight |
|
Title: Re: New Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/09/10 at 07:30:30 When you win this, you will be one of the Go To guys, cuz youre gonne know how this thing works. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/09/10 at 13:48:43 ok, so I checked the valves on my bike,all around, revalved and started the fu*ker up... still hear a bloody tapping noise... I checked the cam tensioner and verified it's tight... so I took off the valve cover again and checked my valves... set wrong AGAIN... gah wtf!... then my oil cover burst again... lol (apperantly JBWeld isnt enough...) lucky I get my new cover today and tomorrow I get the petcock! So what I'm going to do is, check the chain once more, just to be POSITIVE it's not loose.... and check valves again.... I have nothing to lose at this point except for time, and since I'm getting my petcock tomorrow, I still have some time to crappity smack with the bike until then... Justin, I hope so, if I can help even an ounce of what the people here helped me I'd be happy... I recommended a savage today to one of my clients, I might be able to talk him into buying something for cheap giving me 500 bucks to go over the bike and do the misc things that need to be done (oil plug, cam tensioner, valve check, o ring on speedo, rattle on light and speedo, and maybe bags too) make some $ off it and learn in the process... yes I like to make money from everything I do... |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/09/10 at 21:18:12 OK! Ladies and germs... for those who have been following you know that I've had an annoying tapping since i revalved... I crappity smacked up and set the exhaust valves wrong... so after redoing them 4 times (yes, 4) I got it right, and it feels GREAAAAT! I have my own way of doing it now (modified version of Vers's and Clymers with a twist of my own.) Baby fired up and is purring nicely... I could only run for a few seconds as my oil cover did not come in today (:() and my cover is leaking... which is ok too because I sniffed it and NO PETROL! so 2 things good so far... tomorrow I get petcock (called roy's and got the shipping info) and HOPEFULLY (crossing fingers) I'll get my cover tomorrow too, they were supposed to be in today... nuts happens, i'm glad it didnt because I took my time with the valves, assesed the situation, read clymers and figured it out... so I'm slowly starting to reassemble! |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/10/10 at 13:17:29 I got the petcock today... that wasnt the cause of the problem... not sure what is... i was riding for a minute and then my battery died, im going to go grab my old one and see what happens |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/10/10 at 17:17:04 ok so there might be a someone up there just crappity smacking with me... for some reason I have a short... my turn signals are constantly on... weird :\ I checked ALL cables and nothing is melted or burned |
|
Title: Re: New Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/11/10 at 02:01:44 sounds like youve bumped the hazard flashers into the on position |
|
Title: Re: New Post by runwyrlph on 04/11/10 at 06:30:24 when i bought mine, i rode it home from the dealer- about 30 miles... all cool, waving to the other riders ... then i got home and realized i had accidently bumped the 4 way flashers "on"! :-[ And I thought they were staring 'cuz my bike was so shiny and new! :) |
|
Title: Re: New Post by kerosene on 04/11/10 at 10:08:11 7E6167607D7A4B7B4B73616D26140 wrote:
defentily not, I also dont have hazard flashers... the lights also dont blink, they're on steady, once I turn high beam on the left turn signal on speedo turns on |
|
Title: Re: New Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/11/10 at 10:09:13 Bummmerrr Duuude! |
|
Title: Re: New Post by wingsout on 04/12/10 at 06:59:14 Put some HEET in it. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by babyhog on 04/17/10 at 09:22:12 Alright, what the heck happened to kerosene? Must be out on the bike! |
|
Title: Re: New Post by hammyo on 02/03/11 at 14:07:53 I am not sure I am posting correctly. So please forgive me. I am having a hesitation problem...fuel starvation..so I am reading these posts and came across: Now when you say it's jerking, do you mean you twist the throttle and a minute later it takes off suddenly? If so, you got a sticky slide. need I say it? carb clean. but you can fix this up with a little seafoam, pour about an ounce into your tank. hell, drain your carb, fill it up with seafoam and let it sit overnite. drain the carb, pour the seafoam into the tank (waste not) put it in prime and away you go. You hearing any odd noises? I won't go into depth cause you don't have enough miles to worry yet. but clanking around the oil filter is trouble. Well, I AM hearing odd noises. In fact, clanking around the oil filter describes my problem other than hesitation. Part of me doesn't want to know but........Dang.....what is the trouble in this case... Break it to me gently :'( Thank you for any help. |
|
Title: Re: New Post by verslagen1 on 02/03/11 at 14:14:08 I can't do this gently... STOP RIDING NOW! clanking around the oil filter cover is indication that the cam chain adjuster is about to come apart. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1191167029 http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1180206459 |
|
SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2! YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved. |