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Message started by h20skier on 03/06/10 at 14:12:08

Title: Brakes
Post by h20skier on 03/06/10 at 14:12:08

How many miles do you normally get on an S40 before the brake shoes and/or pads need to be replaced? Also. where is the disc wear indicator (there aren't any pics in the Clymer Manual)? One more, how much mileage should you expect to get out of the tires?

Title: Re: Brakes
Post by verslagen1 on 03/06/10 at 15:15:23

on stock pads, there's a groove. once the groove is gone so are the brakes

on the rear, there's a line on the brake arm shaft and wear limit engraved on the hub.

Title: Re: Brakes
Post by photojoe on 03/06/10 at 15:25:42

594A5D5C434E484A411E2F0 wrote:

on the rear, there's a line on the brake arm shaft and wear limit engraved on the hub.

According to the line on mine, I should have changed my rear choes in January. 2009. They'll get replaced when I have to take the rear wheel off.

Front pads are a breeze, 20 minutes tops.

Title: Re: Brakes
Post by Oldfeller on 03/06/10 at 16:52:40

Yep, and there is a star drive on that lever mounting point too, such that you can take the lever off and reset it back to the central position.

This takes like maybe 10 minutes to do.

Just like our clutches, the little magic lines can lead you to be replacing things that still have a third of their functional life still left in them.

Brake shoes have this wonderful way of finally telling you when they really wear out ..... screeeunnnnnnnnch sceeeeeeeeeeeeunchh.

Or else the cam drive point "cams over" because the gap gets too big, which one really happens first on our bikes nobody knows since we've been line worshipers for all these years.

Neat things is the backing plate on the shoes is aluminum and will cause like zero damage to the inner drum surface if you run it right through the brake pad material. It may cost you some elbow grease to sand off some smeared aluminum, but there won't be much as it makes that wonderful noise so you don't do it for very long.

The drill is when you reset the star drive on the lever you go ahead and do the research and start your bargain shopping for a set of rear brake shoes. This gives you like a year plus to get ready. You get them sitting there on hand, that way when the fat lady finally sings you have what you need to fix her back up quick like.

==============

Now normal people would have the rest of the rear tire to go through, then they would likely do their replacement next time they took the rear tire off to put a new skin on it.

Some of us might actually have enough rear tire life to wear out a set of brake shoes, who knows -- I may actually find out.

Or else MMRanch will.

Title: Re: Brakes
Post by Paladin. on 03/06/10 at 17:35:37

I've just shy of 30,000 miles on the bike, three to five pairs of pads, still the original shoes. Over 20,000 of that is city streets. I don't use the brakes much, and the rear less.

Swapping out pads is so easy it is hard to remember when you last did them.

Title: Re: Brakes
Post by Serowbot on 03/06/10 at 17:38:43

Depending on how you use them,... 3500 to 5000 miles.. on the stock front pads... EBC pads will go longer, near double that...

PS,.. use lots of front brake... they have 70% or more of the total stopping power,... and they're way easier to replace...

My rear drums are still original at 23,000 miles... I'm on my forth or fifth set of front pads...

Title: Re: Brakes
Post by Digger on 03/06/10 at 18:29:18

I'm about strictly an urban rider. I toasted the original front brake pads at 3500 miles and replaced 'em with Ferodo Platinum pads.

I replaced those at 7600 miles with EBC organic front brake pads. Those are still in the bike (the bike is currently at 10,500 miles).

I have found that, in general, long pad life means short rotor life. Since the front brake pads are so easy to swap out on our bikes, I'll accept the short pad life.

BTW, I've still got the original rear brake pads on mine.

Title: Re: Brakes
Post by kimchris1 on 03/07/10 at 11:58:42

Digger, you made me go check my brake pads today. In reading your post on how you had to do yours at 3500 miles got me to thinking.
I have just over 3500 on my bike as of yesterday. I checked them and had hubby recheck them. All is well and looks like I have plenty of wear left on them. Lots of space between on both sides.

This will definetly be something I will be keeping a check on for sure.

Title: Re: Brakes
Post by Digger on 03/07/10 at 19:45:52

61636769627863793B0A0 wrote:

Glad to help out....no harm in checkin'!

Title: Re: Brakes
Post by kimchris1 on 03/09/10 at 18:45:57

No harm indeed. That is what I love about this forum. All you guys and gals giving us great tips on what and what not to do.

I as well love the great pictures you provide along with your step by step instructions as well.. Thank you again for sharing all you do with us... :)

Title: Re: Brakes
Post by verslagen1 on 03/09/10 at 19:26:46

Another thing...
What color is your brake fluid?
Do you know it's supposed to be clear?
And it's easy to change, just stand around and wait for it to drain out.
The top of the reservoir says DOT4 but I've always used DOT3.
Easy way, Turn the handlebars till the top of the reservoir is as level as you can get it. Remove the cover. Get a jar at least as big as the can you are filling it with, but a pint is all you should need. Also a small rubber hose. Can't find one? the vent tube off the battery is just right. flip back the rubber cover on the bleed nipple. Crack open the bleeder with the closed end. You're least likely to damage it that way. Once loose, remove the wrench and put on the rubber tube. Other end goes into the jar. Now with the open end of the wrench, open the bleeder a couple of turns. Now be patient, open up an adult beverage, but don't take your eyes off the reservoir cause in a little bit it will start to drain. Have a couple of rags near by to wipe up any drips. This stuff will take paint off if you leave it on. Starting to drain? Let it go down almost to empty, have that can open and ready to pour in. I use my finger to prevent that little tornado from sucking in air, you don't want that in your line. Ok, when you got it down as far as you can stand it, pour some more in, keep it low for now you want all the old stuff out. When you feel you got it, fill it up. Do that till clear stuff comes out the bottom. When you do, close off the bleeder, fill the reservoir to the level line, give the lever a squeeze to see how it feels. Spongy? Use the usual bleedin' technique.

Title: Re: Brakes
Post by h20skier on 03/10/10 at 03:53:47

Thanks for all the tips.