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Message started by Routy on 03/03/10 at 20:15:56

Title: Forward Controls
Post by Routy on 03/03/10 at 20:15:56

I'm going to build some forward controls for my s-40
Does anyone know what the thickness of the plates should be.

1/4 seems a bit light,.....me thinking 3/8 plate would be better ?

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Serowbot on 03/03/10 at 21:45:01

Are you going for bulletproof,.. or bomb proof?... :-?

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Routy on 03/04/10 at 04:24:43

Well, both of those aside, I just wouldn't want any flexing. I think I would put the stabilizer tube across also, but I don't have it all mentally pictured yet, so checking. I read the 12 page FC thread, and never could pickup on the final plate thickness.

4553445941545942360 wrote:

Are you going for bulletproof,.. or bomb proof?... :-?

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by John_D on 03/04/10 at 05:14:23

The cross tube should let you use thinner stuff, I'd think. Area would make a difference too: big wide things with no cutouts, or skinny skeletal things with cutouts.

Nice to see I'm not the only nut still up at this ridiculous hour. Or maybe you're just waking up. ;D

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by thumperclone on 03/04/10 at 05:46:43

for the cross piece i used all thread on my ed L fc
not really needed, wrapped it with that black plst wire loom & mounted a led strip

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Routy on 03/04/10 at 06:53:26

Still up ?
Just waking up ??
I've got 3-4 cups down already ! I been up for ar's already ! ::)

Even w/ the cross tube, I'd guess the kickstand would be the trying factor in determining plate thickness.

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Yonuh Adisi on 03/04/10 at 09:41:11

Routy, I used 1/4 inch steel diamond plate I got free from a friend. They work very well with no detectable flexing. My design is slightly different than ED. L's because I retained the stock kickstand position, but other wise pretty much the same.

The garden tool hooks are what I used for footpegs for a while.
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/115/l_1ea7b414f1444a0ea19e8c366d8c67e2.jpg

This is a pic of them mocked together off the bike.
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/143/l_155e9448cb7549cebd9c769321faee85.jpg

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/7/l_eec319ae139f790dcd8449f446af3dc1.jpg

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/36/l_bd2448a1d3872c710550eaba2e2d2c99.jpg

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by verslagen1 on 03/04/10 at 09:59:45

I wonder if the right peg mount can be used on the left.

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Routy on 03/04/10 at 10:24:40

Well shoot,..I got some 3/8 ms plate this morning, just to be safe.

Thanks for the photos. I got the right side apart, and a template layed out for "4 inches", only because I read where there was a problem somewhere using 5 inch. The RS looks not too difficult, but I'm sure I'll run into surprises. A new cable bracket mite be a little tedious tho.

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by RidgeRunner13 on 03/04/10 at 10:29:45

While I usually fabricate anything I want, the Ed Ls' are worth the money. Everything you need is provided in his kit. By the time you round up the materials & build them, you will have more than his costs if you count your time for anything. I bought mine used but was about to order a new set when they were offered on this forum. They made a great starting point for mounting my floorboards. 8-)

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/Pappygt13/Savagemakeover001.jpg

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Routy on 03/04/10 at 13:08:58

No, not tryin to save money, more just making an interesting project, being as I've done metal fab work for many years.
But I have a lot to learn about this project I guess. I didn't know there was a problem w/ the footpegs yous talk about.

But after making the RH pattern out of 1/8" alumunum, and bolting it onto the bike, I got a whole new idea. Instead of reusing the original plate/footpeg brake pedal plate assy, I now think I will make a new brake pedal shaft, and a new pedal stop, and weld them right onto the new 3/8 ext plate. I will also weld the new cable holder in its original location instead of bolting it. So the only bolts will be the 2 engine bolts, and possibly a cross tube bolt. I will use the existing brake pedal and footpeg, and I will still need to make the 4" brake cable extention.

I believe this will look cleaner, and not have any part of an "add on" look.
If anyone sees a problem w/ this, please give your comment.

I know the left side is a different story, I haven't looked at that much yet.

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Yonuh Adisi on 03/04/10 at 13:14:01

With the left side you will need to make a longer shift rod so you will need a left hand threaded die. Unless you plan to cut and splice to make the original longer.

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Tanker2Biker on 03/04/10 at 14:25:00

47485249555340424A4453210 wrote:

Just got home where I could check. The plate on the kit I got from Ed is 1/4"

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Routy on 03/05/10 at 10:50:16

Ok, I got all the parts made for the right side, new pedal shaft, new pedal stop, new cable holder, and 2 plates cut out. I'm bout ready to weld up the right side. But I keep gettin confused,.....I gotta remember that the cable(s) holder gets welded in the original location,....not 4" ahead like the shaft and the stop. I had it wrong on my pattern at first, and now I got so many marks on it I'm not sure which end is up :-/

And no, I ain't makin any money ! :'(

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Routy on 03/05/10 at 13:37:55

BTW, my bike's drippin oil. I didn't put it together w/ having those long engine bolts loose, but thats about when it started. I hope thats kinda normal.

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by verslagen1 on 03/05/10 at 14:11:59

It's normal to have a leak from those bolts if they're loose.

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Routy on 03/05/10 at 16:13:31

Thanks, now if I could just stay w/ this job maybe I could get done before it runs outta oil ;)

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Ed L. on 03/05/10 at 16:53:59

If you need any tips let me know. I can send you a CD that shows how I did it. It's cool that you are making a set on your own.

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Routy on 03/05/10 at 18:28:28

Thanks for the offer Ed. I'll see how it goes. I just kinda needed a project while its too chilly to ride, and this one has a little challenge in it for sure. But I have the RS about done, except for the brake rod ext. And I only needed to break out the cutting wheel once so far... for an "oops" ;D

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Routy on 03/06/10 at 19:12:35

I got the right side done, works b-u t-ful !

I now got the left side apart.

Am I blind, or is the shift pedal, ball, and rod end one assy that can't be taken apart ? Same thing for the tranny lever, ball, and rod end ?

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Ed L. on 03/07/10 at 13:25:51

You have right and left handed threads on the shift rod so you can remove the rod. The little ball joint that mounts on the shift lever and pedal can't be taken off, at least I've never been able to take them apart with destroying them. I think they are riveted on so to answer the question no you are not blind :D

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Routy on 03/09/10 at 10:58:18

Ok, I just made an extention for the shift linkage.
Drilled and tapped both ends of a 4" pc of 5/16 solid round stock.
($8 for a 6mm tap ? Wow, I still feel that one !)
Screwed one end onto the RH end of the existing link, and screwed a threaded stud (cut head off 1" bolt) into the other end, works great.

I'm about done w/ the left side now, but the long engine bolts are really too short w/ the added 3/8 plate on the left side. I'm not sure what to do about that just yet. Right now I have 3/8 all thread going thru them. Maybe by leaving the flat washers off, and machining the heads of the bolts back about a 1/4", that'll make up the 3/8.

Then cleanup the plates, and decide to paint, or powdercoat, or chrome. I try to post some pics soon.

0E2F1407654B0 wrote:

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Ed L. on 03/09/10 at 18:13:22

My first sets were made out of 1/2 inch aluminum plate and the only way I could make them fit was by grinding down the mounts that the long bolts go thru. I was thinking about recessing the mounts into the plate but didn't think that it would of been strong enough. The way I looked at it was if I ever wanted to go back to normal, what ever that is, all I needed to do was make up the difference with some washers.

Title: Re: Forward Controls
Post by Routy on 03/09/10 at 20:58:18

Thanks Ed.
If I had a mill, I think I would recess the holes on the outside of the plates, an 1/8" or so to pickup a couple more threads.

Or maybe countersink the holes, then machine a taper on the nuts,...like lug nuts. That would pick up plenty. I'll get it one way or another.

I was getting ready to paint, but then remembered I forgot all about the heat sheild. I want to add a tab for that, and drill the holes.

71506B781A340 wrote: