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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Clutch Cover /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1256179310 Message started by ralfyguy on 10/21/09 at 19:41:50 |
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Title: Clutch Cover Post by ralfyguy on 10/21/09 at 19:41:50 Ok, I have searched and couldn't find anything helpful about my problem. I have a rocurring problem. I get an oil leak at higher speeds/rpms between the cylinder and the oil filler plugthrough the clutch cover gasket. I have replace the gasket three times now and it comes back. Maybe I am tightening the bolts wrong. I torque them down to about 13 nm in a criss-cross pattern. Is this too much or too little? |
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Title: Re: Clutch Cover Post by Texas-1-lunger on 10/21/09 at 19:47:32 What are you using for a seal ? Also one of those bolts up there is suppose to be a bolt with a gasket. |
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Title: Re: Clutch Cover Post by ralfyguy on 10/21/09 at 20:03:29 I use a new gasket as is, it has additional sealant from the factory applied in that area. The gaskets for the bolts go in between the bolt head and the cover, but that is not where it leaks. It leaks between the clutch cover and the crank case. It almost seems like crank case pressure is too high, but I checked the breather hose and it is not clogged. It's weird that it needs the higher range rpms to do that. I still don't know what the correct torque for the bolts is. Not even my original Suzuki shop manual says anything. It just says to replace clutch cover. How stupid! This needs to be a bit more detailed, other areas they show torque values where it really doesn't matter. >:( |
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Title: Re: Clutch Cover Post by verslagen1 on 10/21/09 at 20:17:27 at the end of chp 4 in clymers it list the torques crankcase bolts (6mm) 9-13 Nm or 6.5-9.5 ft.lbs. |
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Title: Re: Clutch Cover Post by ralfyguy on 10/21/09 at 20:25:17 2D3E2928373A3C3E356A5B0 wrote:
Does crank case bolts include the clutch cover to crank case bolts? I know they are 6mm also, but it has a gasket in between, the crank case halves have sealant only as far as I know. Or does it not matter? This leaking problem really drives me nuts! Every time I replace the gasket, after about 500 miles it starts leaking again n the same spot under heavy load. The mating surfaces are not damaged and the cover or crank case is not cracked or anything either. Sometimes there's a little coming out of the oil filler plug too. |
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Title: Re: Clutch Cover Post by verslagen1 on 10/21/09 at 20:35:46 No these are the cover bolts, case bolts are much bigger. |
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Title: Re: Clutch Cover Post by ralfyguy on 10/21/09 at 20:48:30 Ok then I did it right then. I just don't understand the problem. |
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Title: Re: Clutch Cover Post by Digger on 12/14/09 at 21:55:44 6E7D707A657B69651C0 wrote:
Dunno if this will help you out, but..... The last time I did this job (see my signature for bike info), I sprayed the new gasket with silicone spray before I installed it. I guess the main reason I did this was to try to stack the odds in my favor of making the gasket easy to remove (with no scraping needed) the next time I take the clutch cover off. The next time I do this job, I will probably try this stuff out as a gasket dressing: Permatex® Hylomar® Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant (http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Hylomar_Universal_Blue_Racing_Formula_Gasket_Dressing_Flange_Sealant.htm) Note that I have no experience with this stuff, but my research made it sound very promising. Now, my FSM does not list specific bolt torques for this application. So, I referred to the general torque chart and found that it called for 3-5 ft-lbs for "conventional" (vice hardened, I presume) 6mm bolts. This equates to about 4-7 nm. I tightened the bolts in three stages in a criss-cross manner. An easy way to do this is to tighten a bolt, then count 7 bolts clockwise, tighten that one, count 7 more, tighten, etc., until you are back to where you started. No leaks on mine (KOW!). |
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Title: Re: Clutch Cover Post by Oldfeller on 12/14/09 at 22:22:22 Why do your gaskets leak? http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/paper_gasket.JPG Part of the answer to your puzzle is the high pressure oil passage at the top of that cover. The top gasket width at the top of that high pressure area is only 3/16 wide and the .020" thick gasket has to stop the migration of oil that is 1) hot !! and 2) running under 20-30 psi of pressure at full engine rpms. Hot oil can make it through untreated paper if not supported by an impregnation agent. To do this the gasket must be impermeable to oil (completely impregnated with either rubber, vinyl plastic or silicone gasket maker) that has been allowed to set up completely before the gasket is installed on clean aluminum flanges, then the bolt up clamping pressure is applied. This way the fibers of the gasket material are reinforced and supported internally before the hot oil pressure is applied. All the micro pathways internal to the paper are blocked before the hot oil pressure is applied. A stock Suzuki gasket is rubber impregnated with a vinyl stripe going around this critical area (protruding vinyl that gets crushed into the gasket joint when the installation clamping torque is applied, so it makes it a "one shot helper" on the bare gasket installation). =========== Since you have unusual re-occuring problems, try checking your cover for any warping or lack of flatness by putting the cover machined side down on a flat surface after removing the hollow steel locator bushings. Check for any rocking or gaps. =========== Other information is available in Tech Section here: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1256595298 |
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