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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Carb Mix Screw /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1256028928 Message started by FishHunt on 10/20/09 at 01:55:27 |
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Title: Carb Mix Screw Post by FishHunt on 10/20/09 at 01:55:27 What is the factory setting on the carb mix screw? The screw that is covered from the factory by a brass plug. How easy/hard should this screw be to turn? <><Fish |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Oldfeller on 10/20/09 at 02:23:31 Too lean. If you want factory settings, don't remove the brass plug. ============= Remove the brass plug and you let the genie out of the bottle. Then you have to fiddle with it all the time, because you can. And it makes a difference when you do, things get better. And then worse. And then better. Then you start keeping mileage logs and fiddle by quarter turns and keeping characteristic logs for each setting. Then you realize that it changes by season too. And altitude. ============= The screw should turn easily. If not, it is corroded in place with brass oxidation and you need to hit it with a penetrant spray like Kroil or WD40 before attempting to force it. ============= Don't turn it out more than 3 turns or it can vibrate out and fall out when riding. There is a spring behind it that gives it retaining friction. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/20/09 at 04:16:12 It should turn easily with a very small diameter screwdriver handle. Close the needle & count turns to know where it is from factory,GENTLE with the needle. Soft stuff in there, when you feel the needle hit the seat, stop. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Bubba on 10/20/09 at 07:36:42 I have a question about this also. I've noticed some strangeness while messing with this air mix screw. I bought my bike (06) used (I'm the 3rd owner). First off, the PO told me he'd done no mods on the bike and I believe him. The brass cover was already off so I'm assuming the 1st owner did that. When I turned the screw CW to determine where my starting point was it was only out 1 1/4 turns. I turned it CCW 1/2 turn past that (so it was now out 1 3/4 turns). Adjusted the idle screw to bring down the rpm's too. It starting backfiring like crazy when I shut the thottle down fast...like really loud gunfire backfire! It hadn't done that before??? Just a gentle "poof" when shutting down previously. After the adjustment, it didn't "poof" anymore at shutdown but man did it backfire while riding! :-?I set it back where it was and it seems to stop the backfire and return the shut down to a "poof". I'm thinking that because the air mix screw really isn't out very far that maybe the 1st owner had rejetted. Does this seem like a logical explanation? I also live a mile up 5280ft... Any insights? |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by verslagen1 on 10/20/09 at 08:32:04 You're a mile up, air is leaner so your adjustment will be leaner too. You made the idle fatter causing you to close down the throttle, as soon as you close the throttle down you are more likely to pop. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Bubba on 10/20/09 at 08:59:48 Thanks verslagen, let me see if I'm getting this right. Since I'm a mile up the idle mix screw won't need to be turned out so many times to richen the carb? I was under the impression that if I richen it, it would stop backfires not cause them. Right now it runs good (no backfires just a little poof on shutdown) but I plan to put on (maybe) a Dyna over the winter. I'm stock on the air filter and exhaust. What I'm really trying to do is keep it running as cool as I can. Thanks again |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by matt on 10/20/09 at 09:33:37 132433333060616962510 wrote:
Oil cooler? jk . As the humidity goes away i find my self fiddling with the screw, actually i find my self messing with it a lot more then just when weather changes, but thats what i like to do. I think the air is less dence so it requires a little less fuel then sealevel areas otherwise it will be to much fuel to air, rich. But what about cooler air, isnt that supose to be more dence then regular air? so It seems both are variables for density of air?now i have confused my self. sorry for any confusion. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Rocco on 10/20/09 at 09:37:14 is this in the carb? or the idle screw? we left the needle alone when we rejetted, is what's being discussed in the carb? brass cover? |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by matt on 10/20/09 at 09:40:53 Hey rocco, they talking about the air mixture screw, the screw on the right side of carb that has brass cover that you gotta pry off to adjust. the one that helps with the farts and what not. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Bubba on 10/20/09 at 09:43:54 Well, since we don't have a temp gauge I'm kind of wingin it here but essentially I know the bikes from the factory run lean i.e. hot. So what I'm hoping to do is get the temps down so I don't shorten the life of my spiffy new bike...run as rich as I can w/o backfires or a drop in performance. Like I said, it runs good right now just want to make sure I'm not runnin over hot. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Rocco on 10/20/09 at 09:43:57 hmmmmm OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH!!!! ok i gotcha! we did screw around with that for a little while. the screw is just chilling there, so i assume there's no brass cover over it. anyone got a pic of the cover? |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by matt on 10/20/09 at 09:46:36 i think i saw picture of before and after in thech section under toc where it show how to do that |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by matt on 10/20/09 at 09:56:46 I dont think the factory condition would casue any damage in its lean condition. from what i hear the bike is designed quite well. (I dont have much expirience in this so definitly get as many ideas and opinions!) But, like you, i like it running at its prime. it seems like when i find a sweet spot something changes and its not to sweet. wait till you change out the air filter and muffler! i like the phrase someone said about mods are like opening a can of worms! ;D. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Serowbot on 10/20/09 at 10:02:31 Our bikes are jetted to pass emission standards at sea level, where they are delivered... that makes them a little lean at sea level, but at 5000ft you may actually be a bit rich, or likely close to correct, with stock jetting. Lean backfire is a common problem, because most populations are at sea level. You can get a rich backfire too... Lean backfires happen when there's not enough fuel in the cylinder to make a good boom, and unspent fuel goes past the combustion chamber into the pipe. Rich backfires have too much fuel and not enough oxygen for a good boom, and again, unspent fuel goes into the pipe and pops there... A good indicator of overall jetting is the weather...if popping/backfiring increases on humid days, or at higher elevation, that indicates rich....less popping at those times indicates lean. Also,.. too low of an idle speed will cause backfire on decel... you might just try raising your idle speed by 100rpm or so, and see if that helps... |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Bubba on 10/20/09 at 10:02:43 Yep, that's why I bought this particular bike. You can actually do things to it w/o all the electronic BS to wade through. I'm pretty stoked about getting some more air to this thing and rejetting...just don't want to cook the poor thing...haha |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Bubba on 10/20/09 at 10:08:42 Serowbot, that is exactly what I was looking for...it explains a lot now. I guess it would be possible to get the new Dyna and not even have to rejet huh? I read on the forum that if I go beyond 3 turns on the air mix screw then it's time to rejet...right? Thanks guys! |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by FishHunt on 10/20/09 at 10:29:36 7F5C5456555C5C5542300 wrote:
I drilled a small hole in the plug and removed the plug. I used a small screwdriver to see if the screw would turn. The screw in mine turned so free that I thought there may have been something wrong. Thanks for the info. Now another question. Since the screw turns so free what do you do to get the setting on the screw to stay? <><Fish |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Oldfeller on 10/20/09 at 15:30:37 Read the last sentence in the quote. Take yours out all the way and see if there is a spring behind it. Don't lose the little spring, you'd have to buy a carb to get a replacement spring .... (jest kiddn'n -- they'd really make you buy a whole new motorcycle) Or you could rape a ball point pen or something. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/20/09 at 16:34:34 Who says its moving? Mark it, ride it, check it. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Tonydtiger1971 on 10/20/09 at 20:36:08 3B2D3A273F2A273C480 wrote:
Ok, can you point in the right direction to up the idle? Right now the bike tends to die, especially now that the weather is cold, until it has run for a minute or two. I have to pull the choke on really cold days. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Routy on 10/20/09 at 21:03:57 While a lot is said about "hot and lean" shortening the life of the engine, remember that the hotter the engine temp is, the more efficient (more hp) it will run. And the hotter the engine temps run, the less cylinder wear will occur. But excessive heat could take its toll on valves if anything. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by RidgeRunner13 on 10/20/09 at 21:41:58 29263C273B3D2E2C242A3D4F0 wrote:
Just curious, where did you learn this? What is your background in mechanics? I'm trying to figure out 'where you're coming from' or who told you this. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Serowbot on 10/20/09 at 22:15:07 28273D212627303E2025222C3A490 wrote:
Knurled screw, turns with your finger on the left side of the bike, under the petcock lever... turn clockwise... Quote:
I think Versy told him... and Versy knows stuff... Just kidding Ridge... messin' with Routy... ;D Hot engines do run better,.. that's why we warm them up... not overheating, but hot... |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by RidgeRunner13 on 10/20/09 at 22:21:02 Hot engines do run better,.. that's why we warm them up... not overheating, but hot... I agree, but that ain't what he said. A few years ago I could have shown him some parts that didn't agree with him either. :'( :'( |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Charon on 10/21/09 at 05:54:49 In all this discussion, I notice no one answered the original question. What is the factory setting for the idle mixture screw? |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Bubba on 10/21/09 at 06:11:34 My guess is that the idle mix screw is set to whatever it takes to get it to pass emmissions...like I said earlier, mine was set at 1 1/4 turns but the brass cap had already been pulled so I guess it's anybody's guess. Since I'm a mile high it seems to be pretty happy there ( no backfires and just a little fart on shutdown) |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by RidgeRunner13 on 10/21/09 at 06:20:53 According to my Suzuki shop manual published March 1995, the pilot screw is preset. For 88 models, the word preset is followed by (3.0). For 95 models, it says, after removing plug, determine the setting by slowly turning it clockwise & counting the number of turns to lightly seat the screw. Turn the screw ccw to remove it. NOTE: This counted number is important when reassembling pilot screw to original position. When installing the pilot screw, turn it in fully but not tightly. From that position turn it out the same number as counted during removal. Install the new plug in the pilot screw hole. Taken straight from the book. 8-) |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Routy on 10/21/09 at 07:27:43 It is well known, or you can google any amount of info on it....... Hot engine... cold air ! The more the difference between the two, the more HP an engine will produce. Add humidity to the cold air, and you will have even more HP. You haven't noticed, "anything" has more hp on a cold humid day ? Why do you suppose we run engines at near or above boiling temps ? Its because we want as much HP as possible w/ as least emmissions as possible, and have less cylinder wear at the same time. When checking cylinder wear (taper) you will always find the most wear in the front cylinders nearest to the radiator, because they are running cooler. The wear is consistently less as you move to the rear cylinders. Of course, heat can also destroy an engine,....need I explain ? BTW, being as you asked,...... I started in auto repair shops as a kid, overhauling engines. In the 60s I graduated to a GM tech, working at GM dealerships, more short blocks than overhauls, later retiring from being a Kohler engine mech for a commercial "Walker Mower" shop. |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Bubba on 10/21/09 at 10:00:46 I just checked the specs on the carb in the Clymers. On page 219 it states that the pilot screw is set at 1 3/4 turns back (at least for model 24C6) Hope that helps... |
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Title: Re: Carb Mix Screw Post by Tonydtiger1971 on 10/21/09 at 18:38:18 2432253820353823570 wrote:
Knurled screw, turns with your finger on the left side of the bike, under the petcock lever... turn clockwise... Quote:
I think Versy told him... and Versy knows stuff... Just kidding Ridge... messin' with Routy... ;D Hot engines do run better,.. that's why we warm them up... not overheating, but hot...[/quote] Thank you :) |
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