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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Clutch cable replacement complete! But... /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1252729278 Message started by Hard Corps on 09/11/09 at 21:21:18 |
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Title: Clutch cable replacement complete! But... Post by Hard Corps on 09/11/09 at 21:21:18 So, my clutch cable snapped just a few days out from a parade I'm scheduled to ride in. Verslagen came through in a pinch and overnighted me the part for dirt cheap, plus a lot of shipping :) So, if you need to know how to do this, it's pretty simple. Forgive my poor terminology- and this may not make sense just reading it, but if you get the parts, it's a breeze! (And I have almost no mechanical experience). 1. Remove the seat- two bolts under the back outside edges where it mounts to the frame. 2. Drain the fuel tank: either siphon it, or just disconnect the vac tube from the petcock and let it drain into a fuel can. 3. Disconnect the petcock from the fuel tank- two bolts under the edge of the tank. 4. Disconnect the speedometer cable (spring-wrapped cable on the right side that runs down to just above the clutch- just unscrew it- but don't lose the gasket inside. 5. Remove the tank- two bolts under the front of the seat, straighten the handlebars, and slide the tank forward and up, then disconnect the electrical junction- just pull it apart. 6. Unscrew the clutch cable at the handlebars- just use a pliers and turn it so the openings line up, and pull the cable out of the lever. 7. At the clutch arm, use a flat-tip screwdriver and gently pry open the part that holds the end of the cable in. Then in the threaded guide, just above it, just unscrew it and slide it out of the notch. 8. Loosen the zip-ties (you shouldn't have to cut them!) and slide the whole assembly out. Now to replace it. 1. Run the new assembly through the zip ties. 2. Reattach the end at the lever and then turn the threaded guide until the openings don't line up so it holds the cable in place. 3. Reattach the end at the clutch arm- replace the threaded guide in the notch and then the cable goes into the arm. Gently bend the piece back in to hold the cable. 4. Replace the tank- two bolts. 5. Replace the petcock- two bolts (just insert the weird yellow "tape" thing back into the slot). Reattach the vac line. 6. Replace the seat- two bolts. 7. Refill tank, and fire it up. 8. Adjust the threaded guides at the lever and clutch arm as needed for tension, etc. I may be missing something- my manuals are on my other computer, so I just did it by the seat of my pants, but it seems to work just fine. Only question is: WHAT ARE THESE????? (I didn't remove them, but they were on the floor when i was finished, and they weren't there when I started) :o :o :o http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3476/3910851743_9d200d9b2f.jpg They're about as big around as a quarter, and the "washer" seems to be magnetized... |
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Title: Re: Clutch cable replacement complete! But... Post by verslagen1 on 09/11/09 at 21:29:39 The 2 knome hats are tank bushings they go in the 2 holes in the back from underneath. should be metal sleeves in each one. don't know where the washer goes. |
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Title: Re: Clutch cable replacement complete! But... Post by Serowbot on 09/11/09 at 21:36:18 Versy beat me,.. again!.... magnetic washer is a mystery to me too,... unless there's two of them and they go on the gnome hats... http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/38/Year/1997/ModelID/6345/Model/LS650P_SAVAGE/GroupID/261287/Group/FUEL_TANK_MODEL_K2_K3 |
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Title: Re: Clutch cable replacement complete! But... Post by Hard Corps on 09/11/09 at 22:20:11 Cool- thanks. They must have fallen off when I pulled the tank :-[ Will have to get them back on early tomorrow morning before the ride, I guess. |
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Title: Re: Clutch cable replacement complete! But... Post by srinath on 09/11/09 at 23:35:26 You almost dont have to remove anything. With the old cable before removing it, tie a piece of shoe string to it and then pull it through and out. Then tie the new cable to that show string, spray its outside with wd40 and pull it back the other way with shoe string. Cool. Srinath. |
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Title: Re: Clutch cable replacement complete! But... Post by boofer on 09/12/09 at 08:12:49 Hate to tell you this, but the big washer looks like one of two that hold the front of the tank. One right, one left on spine of frame on little dowels that stick out. "U" shaped ears under tank slide forward on these. Your tank is probably loose. My tank comes off without removing petcock if you move REAR of tank to left as you gently pull rearward. Tip: Glue front rubber washers to bike with silly cone or 3m weatherstrip, whatever bonds steel to rubber. Boofer |
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Title: Re: Clutch cable replacement complete! But... Post by verslagen1 on 09/12/09 at 08:25:50 not it boofer, he said the washer was magnetised, so it's metal, not rubber. |
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Title: Re: Clutch cable replacement complete! But... Post by Hard Corps on 09/12/09 at 19:16:14 2D2C37303F2A365E0 wrote:
I thought of that, but with the entire assembly as one piece, and the old one zip-tied to the frame under the tank, that wouldn't work. Anyway, I rode the bike all day and it was fine, but I think I will lift the tank off a bit and see if I can my missing parts back in where they belong. |
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