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General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignment)
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Message started by Oldfeller on 09/03/09 at 08:55:33

Title: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignment)
Post by Oldfeller on 09/03/09 at 08:55:33

My bike was rear ended pretty hard in a parking space while sitting on the side stand.  Impact was strong enough to bend things and move things out of alignment.  Result is the bike now has a high speed wobble condition.

Savages have a short wheel base and tend to be very responsive due to their geometry.   This means if they get warped up a bit, they can do a high speed wobble for you.

High speed wobble isn't new, some Brit bikes had it as a symptom as did the early Jap high speed two strokes.  Yamaha fitted hydraulic dampeners on some models as a stock prevention method.  Some bikes were notorious for it.  

The Savage is not one of them, you gotta have something bent or wrong to have a persistent high speed wobble on a Savage.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/03/09 at 08:59:39

Item one is to repair known issues.  If you have a warped banged up triple tree, loosen straighten and repair it.   Ditto for the swingarm and rear axle and the rear wheel.  

Fix what is know to be wrong as well as it can be fixed.  Everything you fix should remove some of the wobble.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/03/09 at 09:20:33


ALIGNMENT

You have a bent puppy now -- don't be expecting your rear index marks, etc. to mean what they did when the bike was new.  Bending of the frame and swingarm mean that the rear and front tires have a new relationship and you need to learn more about that to relationship fix it and to properly align it.

Trying to rely on reference marks and such with a bent bike is COUNTERPRODUCTIVE -- you waste time chasing marks and things that have done been changed on you by that impact.

You have a crab-cycle now, the front tire and the rear tire may not even be in a single true line any more.   More likely you are running two parallel lines with your tires and your frame is slightly tilted to your direction of travel.  Don't be amazed at this, some custom bikes are built this way on purpose, especially those with very wide rear tires.

How can you recognize this condition?  Your handle bars are slightly turned to one side when running straight down the road.

How do you fix this?   Adjust the REAR TIRE using the adjustment bolts.

Your front and rear tires must run at the same angle for the bike to physically go straight.  My handle bars are slightly cocked to the right when going straight.   This means my rear tire is slightly cocked to the right even thought the witness marks, etc say that it is OK.

Adjust the rear tire as if you were directly adjusting the cocked front tire.  Moving the rear tire alignment will move the front tire alignment in a 1:1 relationship.   Trust me on this, pavement forces on the tires make this back to front adjustment linkage work.


Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Phelonius on 09/03/09 at 09:27:52

Since the witless marks are not accurate anymore' you can put a long straightedge to the rear wheel, assuming the wheel spokes are properly adjusted, and compare its' parrallel to the countershaft sprocket that has a straight edge along it.  When they are as straight as you can get them, note the witless marks and WRITE DOWN the difference. Apply this difference whenever adjusting your belt or chain.

Phelonius

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by srinath on 09/03/09 at 10:12:52

You need a swingarm ? cos I got one I aint gonna need.
Changing it though is a huge PITA ... so make sure you need to swap it ... then swap it.
Cool.
Srinath.


40636B696A63636A7D0F0 wrote:
My bike was rear ended pretty hard in a parking space while sitting on the side stand.  Impact was strong enough to bend things and move things out of alignment.  Result is the bike now has a high speed wobble condition.

Savages have a short wheel base and tend to be very responsive due to their geometry.   This means if they get warped up a bit, they can do a high speed wobble for you.

High speed wobble isn't new, some Brit bikes had it as a symptom as did the early Jap high speed two strokes.  Yamaha fitted hydraulic dampeners on some models as a stock prevention method.  Some bikes were notorious for it.  

The Savage is not one of them, you gotta have something bent or wrong to have a persistent high speed wobble on a Savage.


Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/07/09 at 10:25:19

Trying to use a rear wheel based static alignment (a straight edge of any kind) to align a warped frame off of bent components is problematical as all you get is a temporary static alignment of the parts in that particular array/position.   Plus, with a slightly warped rear wheel, what the heck exactly are you indicating off of as your origin?

I am searching for an easy-to-do dynamic method, a running down the road methodology that achieves a functional alignment of some somewhat warped components.

Today is try #2 to get the front and rear wheels running in the same axis.  All I did was adjust the rear wheel, moving it with the axle adjusters as if I was adjusting the error seen on the front wheel/handlebar's direction of bias when running straight down the road.

Result was to "straighten up" the front wheel's running down the road orientation.  Moving the alignment of the rear to correct the cocking/bias that the front was running down the road proves that the rear tire does indeed "control" how the front tire runs down the road.

My tires may not be following each other exactly, but by golly they are finally running parallel to each other and are running in the same parallel axis orientation more closely than they did before.

Speed wobble is decreased in severity by about half and it moved up 5-10 mph to 67-70 as the speed of onset.   This is not fixed, but it is improved and it shows I am maybe chasing the right rabbit.

===================

Now, let's try to get that rear wheel trued up even better -- another go at the spokes is in order.  

Also, let's tighten up all the triple tree allen heads and top caps on the off chance that something is loose.   Ditto for the swingarm cross bolt.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/07/09 at 11:53:21

You pretty sure youve got the front wheel true in the forks?
Im pretty sure you do, not as if you just started working on things, just thot Id ask how you lined that up.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Stimpy on 09/07/09 at 12:32:52

Oldfeller:

Sorry about your bike but not all is lost yet and
you where not sitting on it  :D, you have a working
engine and all electrical components in top shape,
I would suggest  that you replace frame/swing-arm
and all other inexpensive but crucial components
so you can have a safe bike.

There is a company called PINWALL which
specializes in selling bikes "by the part"
and has a bunch of savage parts at DIRT
CHEAP PRICES i.e frame $49, swingarm $9.99,
etc; wheels and stuff are also cheap but front end
is not.

Good luck, here is the link:
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/PinWall-Cycle-Parts-Inc__W0QQ_sidZ12458664?_nkw=suzuki+savage&submit=Search

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/07/09 at 13:50:45

Heckuva site Stimpoid! Great Find, man..

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/07/09 at 16:26:44

Throwing a bunch of new parts at the issue willy nilly isn't the plan -- developing a method to allow use of imperfect components is the desired goal.

Nothing about the front end or the swingarm was bolt loose -- all fasteners were tight and visually were oriented as expected.  All fasteners were brought up to print max torque.

Justin, you assemble the triple tree, tighten the top caps, tighten the axle/wheel/shocks into a rigid unit (allowing the wheel and axle to self-align the lower portion of the assembly) then you tighten the clamp allen bolts on the lower arm of the triple tree to put the entire front end assembly into a rigid relationship.  Then you check tighten everything again.

The triple tree is self-aligning (provided that the tree portion isn't warped that is).  A fork brace only serves to make the lower shock housings both move together as a fixed pair and it helps keep the lower forks from flexing quite as badly as they normally are able to flex/distort going over bumps, etc.

=================

My post crash rear rim was out .240" laterally and a bit more than .120" radially with one nice .055" deep rim dent when I first started spoke tuning the first time.  It was messed up ....

After two (2) several hour long sessions at the spokes reading a mounted dial indicator squishing out the damage I have the radial down to .030" and the lateral down to .035".  This includes the remainder of the dented section.

Lateral run out measured on the rubber tire is .025" worst case, so the rubber is running fairly true at this point in time.  Radial r/o will tire wear to approaching zero, so most folks don't sweat a little radial r/o on the rubber as they know it is only temporary.  I couldn't reach around to measure it from the swing arm, so I really don't know what it is right now anyway.

Visually, the tire is running much much better than it did post crash.

The Clymer manual lists the desired wheel tuning results as variation to be less than .080" (or 2mm).  This seems high to me as the internet says you tune newly laced rims to .020" true in both axis.  This seems to be doable with new stuff and seems in line with good workmanship on newly laced wheels.

But another place lists 1/16" (.060") as the tuning tolerance goal for a spoke wheel assembly.  Go figure.  I meet two out of the three, so I am gonna run it and see what it does.

==========

Ride report tomorrow.   My back is aching from bending over the spokes so long today, so I am going to call it a night.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Boule’tard on 09/07/09 at 20:44:49

Good GOD man, how can you have such a good attitude about this, diligently tweaking your bike instead of sitting with a sniper rifle in the tree nearest that store?  Functional alignment?! I'd be sick to my stomach and looking for a whole new bike if only ONE major component was bent like that, never mind that the warpage is taken out by some other part or you could correct it by cooking up your own alignment system.  I know you will end up with your bike running as true as anyone else's (and not in jail for murder) but I just couldn't stand the thought of it never being the same. You have an incredible laid-back attitude, my hat is off to you sir.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Charon on 09/07/09 at 20:53:24

I have to agree with Boule'tard. If my bike gets hit badly enough to bend frame, swing arm, etc, I will file a claim with the insurance and try to get it called a total. Somehow, I do not think I would be capable of trusting a bent/straightened frame.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/08/09 at 02:57:44

There is no second party to the accident, as he scooted off after putting the bike back up on the side stand.

I have liability only coverage that would have covered damage to the offending party's vehicle and to the curb (if I was at fault, NC law).  

Sorry, I filed no claim since I really didn't care about the curb and the other guy was already gone.  And having my bike insurance cost shoot up for the rest of my life isn't on my game plan either.

And you do realize my bike hasn't been Suzuki standard any more for some time now and that I already tweeked the entire rear end of the bike once previously (but quite intentionally) putting a too large rear tire on it?

Plus my bike is "well used", definitely not a virgin any more.  My scrap out value would have been low even if I had comprehensive insurance.

If I can do this and tell you how, then you know something useful for the next time somebody has a frame issue or gets a speed wobble they want to get rid of.

Life sucks sometimes, get over it quick and go back to being happy about the good parts and you will enjoy your life more.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by ralfyguy on 09/08/09 at 04:48:33


5F7C7476757C7C7562100 wrote:
There is no second party to the accident, as he scooted off after putting the bike back up on the side stand.

I have liability only coverage that would have covered damage to the offending party's vehicle and to the curb (if I was at fault, NC law).  

Sorry, I filed no claim since I really didn't care about the curb and the other guy was already gone.  And having my bike insurance cost shoot up for the rest of my life isn't on my game plan either.


And you do realize my bike hasn't been Suzuki standard any more for some time now and that I already tweeked the entire rear end of the bike once previously (but quite intentionally) putting a too large rear tire on it?

Plus my bike is "well used", definitely not a virgin any more.  My scrap out value would have been low even if I had comprehensive insurance.

If I can do this and tell you how, then you know something useful for the next time somebody has a frame issue or gets a speed wobble they want to get rid of.

Life sucks sometimes, get over it quick and go back to being happy about the good parts and you will enjoy your life more.

I am interested to get educated how you did the spoke tuning so well, as I have a front wheel that needs the same work done.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/08/09 at 08:04:39

Life sucks sometimes, get over it quick and go back to being happy about the good parts and you will enjoy your life more.



Which is much more important than being angry or seeking justice.

Yea, took me a while to learn this one, but life got easier when I relaxed.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Boule’tard on 09/08/09 at 08:47:36


3E2127203D3A0B3B0B33212D66540 wrote:
Which is much more important than being angry or seeking justice.

Yea, took me a while to learn this one, but life got easier when I relaxed.


Yeah, OldFeller's teaching us a couple of things.  How to fix mangled bikes, and how one gets from YoungFeller to OldFeller. By not giving yourself heart problems or strokes.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/08/09 at 09:39:29

Another reason not to get bent overmuch about the whole thing is the support I got out of list members.

Gary on a Savage sent me a care package filled with mirrors, footpegs and turn signals enough to fix all the bashed up parts and have a bit or two left over for next time.

Thanks Gary -- that care package kept me from having to feed the fetch it puppy at Bike Bandit more than a couple doggie biscuits outa my back pocket !!

Why not be happy about it?  

Life is good ....  (Gary certainly was)

;D

Oldfeller


Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/08/09 at 09:55:34

Lets see, today's progress ....   Tuned the front wheel, it was .065" radial and .085" lateral with one large broad area dent.   This is arguably within Suzuki's (or Clymers) spec range, but I can do better than that.

Got the front wheel down to .025" radial and .020" lateral before I called it quits due to diminishing returns on effort expended  (fiddling with spokes gets old pretty quick after the first hour).

How to tune a wheel -- go on the internet and you can find videos and stuff for both bicycles and motorcycles.  Lots of it, all the same tricks apply.  You need a good 6mm wrench to keep from damaging the flats on the spokes (they will corrode if damaged).  

Just remember to do the radial error first, then the lateral, back to the radial and then back to the lateral.  Check all spokes when done to make sure all are at least "snug" before doing the last radial/lateral run around.

You can do it a lot quicker if you have a dual indicator set up on a truing stand, but I am doing it with just a single indicator with the wheels still mounted on the bike and the bike jacked up on a bike lift.

===============

Took the shocks off to see if anything was bent or broken and found something interesting.  I had them set up at max preload but neither one were at max preload after the big impact.  One was at min and the other was at one step down from max.

Impact hit was so hard it jarred the shock preload setting loose, one went over the edge down to minimum and the other went the other way, down one notch from max.  

The difference would be katywampus from one side to the other and could maybe play against the speed wobble thing somewhat -- we will see soon enough.

Have you checked your preload settings lately?  Have any of you had them move on you like that before?

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Charon on 09/08/09 at 09:58:09

I realize State laws about insurance vary. Here in Nebraska we are required to carry uninsured and underinsured motorist coverage. It would seem to me that the uninsured motorist coverage should cover the damage instead of my own comprehensive and collision coverage.  Too, my motorcycle is stock and fairly new (2007). I was not intending to criticize your choices, but only to say mine would probably be different.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/08/09 at 09:59:50

No problem, I would want to keep my bike anyway because of all of the tweeks and stuff already incorporated into it.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by youzguyz on 09/08/09 at 10:09:27


092A2220232A2A2334460 wrote:
Have you checked your preload settings lately?  Have any of you had them move on you like that before?


As a matter of fact.. I think so.  It had been a long time since I did 2-up with my daughter, and I was setting my preloads to the stiffest possible.  On side took 1 more "click" than the other to get it there.
But, I never noticed a problem with the ride or handling (before or after)
I do hit bumps pretty hard at times.. and I do stand on my pegs if I see a nasty bump coming up.. so I suppose that "could" make the preset jump.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by ralfyguy on 09/08/09 at 10:27:53


694A4240434A4A4354260 wrote:
Lets see, today's progress ....   Tuned the front wheel, it was .065" radial and .085" lateral with one large broad area dent.   This is arguably within Suzuki's (or Clymers) spec range, but I can do better than that.

Got the front wheel down to .025" radial and .020" lateral before I called it quits due to diminishing returns on effort expended  (fiddling with spokes gets old pretty quick after the first hour).
Did you hammer out the radial dents, or did you do it all with spoke tuning?
How to tune a wheel -- go on the internet and you can find videos and stuff for both bicycles and motorcycles.  Lots of it, all the same tricks apply.  You need a good 6mm wrench to keep from damaging the flats on the spokes (they will corrode if damaged).  

Just remember to do the radial error first, then the lateral, back to the radial and then back to the lateral.  Check all spokes when done to make sure all are at least "snug" before doing the last radial/lateral run around.

You can do it a lot quicker if you have a dual indicator set up on a truing stand, but I am doing it with just a single indicator with the wheels still mounted on the bike and the bike jacked up on a bike lift.

===============

Took the shocks off to see if anything was bent or broken and found something interesting.  I had them set up at max preload but neither one were at max preload after the big impact.  One was at min and the other was at one step down from max.

Impact hit was so hard it jarred the shock preload setting loose, one when over the edge down to minimum and the other went the other way, down one notch from max.  

The difference would be katywampus from one side to the other and could maybe play against the speed wobble thing somewhat -- we will see soon enough.

Have you checked your preload settings lately?  Have any of you had them move on you like that before?

Did you use a hammer to get the radial dents out, or did you do it ALL with just spoke tuning?
Because I have a front wheel like that, and I cannot get the radial dents out of it, which are somewhere between 1/8" to 1/4". The lateral isn't all that bad, about less than 1/8". I got a 6# hammer and a pice of wood, loosened the spokes surrounding that area and whacked the crap out of it, but it won't budge.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/08/09 at 10:57:47

If you want to drive a section of the rim out, away from the axle, you'll need to support the rim on either side of the target zone. Picture standing the rim up on a block in front of & behind the area & putting a block on the spot you want to see moved, then smacking the block. Youd need to support the back end of the block, too. REmoving the spokes in the area you are trying to move away from the axle would seem necessary.  The support blocks would have to be contoured to "fit" the wheel, or youll do more damage. You might be ahead to unlace it & work it. With a bottle jack & some ropes, I bet I could get it, but explaining how would take 10 pages.

Heck, maybe not,,A strap around the rim & support on either side with a 4X4 across them. Stick a bottle jack on the 4X4, with the supports under the ends & put the strap on top of the jack. When you jack it up, it will pull the low spot up & hold down on each side of it.
You may be able to leave the tire on. It may even be easier, IDK, just have to mess with it. A 4X4 cut lengthwise diagonally, so you get 2 triangles, relieve the hypotenuse to fit the radius of the tire,,, It'll take longer to get ready that to prove if it works or not.

PS, IDK what your time is worth, but replacement may be a better option. A guy like me? Id spend the time before I spent the dime.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/08/09 at 12:37:33

If your rim dent is a simple localized impact, then the rim lips are just bent locally.  You can hammer at them with little effect, or take a piece of aluminum bar stock and make a lip mover.

You remember the old hand held bottle openers, right?

Same principal -- a lever with the fulcrum point at the end and a shaped hook to put pressure on the lip of the rim.   Just watch the tip fulcrum to make sure you don't create other types of damage while displacing the lip.

My dents were large broad impacts that I "squeezed" out by loosening the spokes at the dent area completely and then I tightening spokes on the outside of the remaining oval form until the oval form disappeared and VOLA !! almost all of the dent also disappeared as the material was displaced outwards driven by the hoop forces of the disappearing oval.  

It isn't perfect and not all of the error can be removed by this method.

You can manipulate a dented rim's circular form with the spokes more than you would think you could .....  you just can't take the deflection out of the actual impacted lip areas with the spokes.

===============

Ride report -- wobble is still there at 67 mph.   Not even reduced very much by all the "good things" I just did.   Bummer.

===============

Most bang for the buck so far has come from correcting the axis alignment of the rear tire so the front runs straight.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/08/09 at 13:03:55

I simply dont understand the mechanics of what makes a wobble. I can see it in a turn, when the front end starts yeeeing & Hawwing as the shocks start that up & down action, but in a straight line, I dont get it, certainly at such a low speed.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/08/09 at 15:52:24

It is a handle bar wiggle feeding back to the frame.

Or it is a butt end wiggle feeding forward to the handle bars.

Maybe it takes turns .... durned if I know.

================

You ought to be able to discover what is causing it and fix it.

================


My main issue right now is that I have found LOTS of stuff wrong with my post crash bike.   And i am fixing what I find, one item at a time, but so far I haven't discovered the real "root cause" of the wobble --

not yet.


Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by verslagen1 on 09/08/09 at 16:01:49

To note a similar issue with a high speed wobble.
My head bearing are notched (?) at least pitted.
Took them apart, scotch brited the heck out them relubed and they work fine.
The wobble took place because I wasn't able to make fine adjustments to keep it straight.  And probably was what made me like I was going to fall over when I test rode the new2me bike.  I was turning and the bike was not.
So after putting on the fork brace, adjusting the tire pressure helped, but did not fix.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree
Post by Stimpy on 09/08/09 at 16:09:13

Heckuva site Stimpoid! Great Find, man..

...yup yup yup, best kept secret on the interwebz!  :D
Pinwall Motorcycles used to be a "real store", you know,
a big warehouse up in ohio somewhere but since this
eBay thing seems to be working so well for them they
have recently gone "ebay only"  prices are unbeatable
and never had a problem w/shipping, all parts are used
but in good shape, always read "part description".  http://stores.shop.ebay.com/PinWall-Cycle-Parts-Inc__W0QQ_sidZ12458664?_nkw=suzuki+savage&submit=Search


Anyway, THIS WOBBLE seems to me like it may be a bent rear RIM
or AXEL, don't know, maybe the tire itself is damaged and now has
a  "bump" (busted steel cords inside?) after the rear end collision,
let us know how it goes, k? L8r
 

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by ralfyguy on 09/08/09 at 18:34:32

I thought those tires had nylon cords only?

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/08/09 at 23:53:38

Tire construction has both steel wire bias belts and radial polyester cords.  A carcass is made up from at least two radial polyester cord wide layers that incorporates the steel wire bead areas, then it is carried to a second stage machine that forms it into the tire shape and lays the two bias steel belts (two layers of steel wire at criscross angles to each other) then follows it with the thick tread layer on top.  

Then into the mold for curing.

A very sharp blow to a tire can rupture some polyester cords and can cause shifting of a steel bias belt, but it has to be very severe to do that.  A tire is incredibly strong and it just acts as an envelope to contain the air -- the air carries the entire load and air is both flexible and endlessly durable.

I scanned the sidewall/crown area of my rear tire with an indicator and only found .025" variance -- no evidence of a bruised area with busted cords.

I will ride it a while until this winter's teardown comes, then I will remove the rear wheel and check for a bent axle or warped swing arm.

Around town I never ever hit 67 mph, so this speed wobble really offers me no functional inconvenience at all.  

I could ignore this issue very successfully for a period of years if need be ....

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree
Post by babyhog on 09/09/09 at 08:17:12


74534E4A575E270 wrote:
Heckuva site Stimpoid! Great Find, man..

...yup yup yup, best kept secret on the interwebz!  :D
Pinwall Motorcycles used to be a "real store", you know,
a big warehouse up in ohio somewhere but since this
eBay thing seems to be working so well for them they
have recently gone "ebay only"  prices are unbeatable
and never had a problem w/shipping, all parts are used
but in good shape, always read "part description".  http://stores.shop.ebay.com/PinWall-Cycle-Parts-Inc__W0QQ_sidZ12458664?_nkw=suzuki+savage&submit=Search


Anyway, THIS WOBBLE seems to me like it may be a bent rear RIM
or AXEL, don't know, maybe the tire itself is damaged and now has
a  "bump" (busted steel cords inside?) after the rear end collision,
let us know how it goes, k? L8r
 


I also found this store on Ebay, and actually visited their "real" store August 7th weekend, (Massillon, Ohio) so if they closed it up, it was recently.  Doesn't really matter... most of the store parts were new.  The good used stuff was on Ebay.  I like that they shoot a video around the bike running, before they dis-assemble it...  pretty cool.  They also have a seperate Ebay ID for New parts.  The prices don't seem too bad either.

***********

Anyway, Oldfeller, I've been reading this since your bike got hit and it still baffles me that someone hit it THAT HARD in a parking space!  I assume there was not a space across from you, or it was empty?  And for them to have the balls to stand it back up and leave!   Shamey, shamey, SHAME on them!  But thank you for sharing your experience and wisdom!!

~babyhog~
 

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/09/09 at 09:02:08

Babyhog, there was a large extended cab Ford superduty parked beside me blocking the second half of their approach view (where the bike was hiding) and I think they just whipped into the "empty" parking place and got a surprise about half way in.

Remember your high school physics, Conservation of Momentum transfer from a large vehicle to a small one.

Mass*Velocity = Mass*Velocity

3,000+ lb vehicle at 5 ft/sec = 300 lb bike at 50 ft/sec.

You remember the pendulum lab, the big ball smacking a small ball and it moving faster as the energy transfers through the m*v relationship.

In short, they weighed a lot more and weren't going that fast, maybe 5 mph.  My bike got the equivalent hit of an equal weight motorcycle going 50 ft a second (and in plain English that's about 34 mph)

In reality, bumpers normally absorb some of this energy -- but my bike didn't weigh enough to cause his bumper to give very much.  My tail light / liscense plate assembly did most of the energy absorption until it mashed in to contact the tire, then the tire, wheel and axle/swingarm took the rest of the lick.  Then the side of the bike and the front wheel against the curb stopped the bike from sliding.

================

Words to the Wise

Always avoid getting hit by a car.  You see videos of bikes getting sprayed into air born pieces when a car hits one at any decent speed -- this is why.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/09/09 at 09:09:16

Had a nice day outside today so I went riding.   My bike still handles town roads, right angle turns at full lean and dices traffic very well.  It isn't crippled for its primary use at all.   If I sit there and dwell at the wobble speed it is unuseable but if I go ahead and blow on by it, it hardly twitches.   67mph isn't a normal cruising speed anyway.

I'll play more later on when I have the rear end apart for some other reason, but I'm not going to screw with it any more right now.


Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by kel30734 on 09/09/09 at 09:43:14

You Gonna Have this thing worked out by June 2010?


DRAGON RUN :o

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/09/09 at 12:14:29

How often did we hit 67 mph on the dragon run -- never.

All I have to do is ride back roads on the way up, which I always do anyway out of preference as I like the scenery better.

I will be there, never fear.

Did anyone declare any form of fall trip that you know of?

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by kel30734 on 09/11/09 at 08:03:28

Did anyone declare any form of fall trip that you know of?


Not really........... I'm back at school 3 nights a week and working 40+
and kids are back in school too.... no much time for riding except back and forth to work and school.....

Kel

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 09/21/09 at 10:30:19

Got another clue yesterday -- had occasion to hit the rear brake hard enough to lightly skitter the tire.

chirp ..... chirp ..... chirp..... chirp......

Huh?  I know that rim is round enough
(within Suzuki/Clymer specs anyway)

Well, the tire is not as round as it once was as repeated light rear tire slides give a slight stutter to the rolling type slide.

=================

This will either wear in round or it won't.

I will find out in due time I guess.   Still have approaching 2 years to live with the tire at present wear out rate.

=====================

I want to thank everyone for their ongoing offers of bits and pieces but I am good for now.  I can't see taking your tail light plastic pieces and such when I really don't need them right now as that isn't fair to you or to the other folks who may actually need them.

Thank you all, very very much for all the help !!!

Oldfeller

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by verslagen1 on 09/21/09 at 11:25:58

might be worth a try of collasping the tire and reseating it.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/21/09 at 11:27:38


This will either wear in round or it won't.

I will find out in due time I guess.   Still have approaching 2 years to live with the tire at present wear out rate.


If it was mine Id get the rear off the ground & spin the tire & have a look at how far it is out of round. If its not too bad, I would take a grinder & put the bike in gear & jack the idle up & gently work that tire down till is round, becaus it wont "run round" since every time it rolls over the low side, the bike falls & when it hits the rise, it lifts off a bit, so all it will do is develop a weird cupping around it.

Have you looked to see if the bead was driven down where it was hit? Maybe deflating & reinflating would help? The line on the tire that runs just above the bead will tell you.


Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Oldfeller on 10/05/09 at 02:08:17

Justin, the bead line is straight and the sidewall of the tire itself has .025" variation measured at the same time I was truing the rim.  There is nothing gross or "out of spec" about the way the rear tire runs to Suzuki/Clymer book specs -- but the variation of the contact patch is enough to give skidding variation and is enough to play in causing the current rumba/wobble issue.  It is mild enough to be succeptable to wear in though.  


==========


Update wear in report:

I noticed that I hadn't noticed anything in the last few days and went and took the bike up to shudder speed to see what was what.

Tire is wearing "rounder" and the wobble issue has become pretty much un-noticeable during normal weekly use.  If you take it up to the critical speed and dwell there you can get a mild wobble, but you are having to pretty much work at it to get it to happen.

I think this thing is gonna cure itself given some time and tire wear.


===============


Thank you (GaryonaSavage and others) for all the help and sending of bits and pieces guys, it is just another good example of the list doing good and helping each other out!

Oldfeller

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/05/09 at 05:54:29

It would be nice if the bike "Healed up".

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by bill67 on 10/05/09 at 06:17:05

  I would fine some really big bumps and go over them and maybe the frame will flex its self straight.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by sakara on 10/05/09 at 09:25:15

I really do have an extra frame and extra tail light assembly, sitting in a box, collecting dust. I know ya said ya don't absolutely need 'em..but they're free if ya want 'em.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by BurnPgh on 10/05/09 at 21:04:44

free frame you say?

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by Dj12midnit on 10/05/09 at 21:23:30

All you have to do to get is is be rear ended.

Title: Re: Warped frame, swingarm, triple tree  (alignmen
Post by sakara on 10/06/09 at 05:02:28

Lol heard that. Shipping a frame isn't cheap, but I have two and can let one go if needed.

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