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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Carbs...again! /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1250716129 Message started by DrunkenDwarf on 08/19/09 at 14:08:49 |
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Title: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/19/09 at 14:08:49 I realize I'm beating this topic to death, but hopefully I'll learn something from it. I'm completely unhappy with my seat-of-the-pants (roll-off) test for the main jet. I just don't have enough experience to be an unbiased judged. Enough complaining, on to my real question. I understand that a cold engine is not a valid condition under which to test a carburetor. That said, I noticed something today. It was about 70 degrees when I started my S40 this morning with the choke one notch out. It didn't idle well, so I revved* the engine and pushed the choke in. It idled smoothly with no choke, a little slow, but smooth. *It dies if I push the choke in without a little throttle, is that normal? I pulled into the street and attempted to cruise down to the corner at about 1/8 throttle. The engine did not like that. It surged horrible. I assume because it was too lean for the cold engine. I had thought that at 1/8 throttle the pilot system would still have a significant effect on the mixture. I guess I'm wrong. What I learned was my mixture is much richer at idle than at 1/8 throttle. The questions are: which is wrong and how do I fix it? I hadn't thought my idle was too rich because the plug looked good last time I pulled it. We don't have a "throttle cut away" so that's not something I can adjust. I guess the next option would be to reduce the spacer from 3 washers to 2 washers. Thoughts? Corrections? Angry letters? -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by Serowbot on 08/19/09 at 16:35:07 Give us a reminder again.... What mods have you done? What elevation are you? What state? What is your current jetting?. What did you have for breakfast today? and who are you again?.......... :-? No, really,... need more info... ;) |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by thumperclone on 08/19/09 at 17:04:56 1st start bike and keep it runnin,when it will idle (will be low) w/o choke, then do your safety check,then put on your protective gear, now ready to mount and ride.. idle speed is 1 >1.2 K set on a fully warmed up engine.. i have a tach and an oil temp gauge sometimes it takes a few miles for er to totally warm up even on the hottest days.. some one here said "dont ask her to scream untill her throat is warm" |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by LANCER on 08/19/09 at 17:44:03 555C59504A5D59380 wrote:
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/19/09 at 18:16:05 485E49544C59544F3B0 wrote:
See signature: Pearl White 2007 S40; Dyna exhaust; Current jets: 55 (1 turn out) / half spacer / 150 See Profile: Rochester, NY Elevation: 500 ft -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/19/09 at 18:23:23 606D626F697E3E3B0C0 wrote:
606D626F697E3E3B0C0 wrote:
See signature: Pearl White 2007 S40; Dyna exhaust; Current jets: 55 (1 turn out) / half spacer / 150 Intake is stock. If I have time this weekend I'll change the pilot to a 52.5 w/ holes and see how the engine likes it. -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by Serowbot on 08/19/09 at 18:24:50 My bad.... :-? For what you've done,.. you should be in the ball park... Never test anything in a cold engine... also don't test during unusual weather... You want a good average for your usual riding conditions... |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by ralfyguy on 08/19/09 at 19:55:08 Mine actually runs geat, but if I start it with the choke on the first notch, and then after a little while push it back in it dies too without a little throttle. It's always done that from the beginning. |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/20/09 at 05:29:56 4D404F4244531316210 wrote:
Color me confused. Let me repeat the steps I took, perhaps there was a miss communication.
What this tells me is the engine is getting a richer mixture at 0 throttle than at 1/8 throttle. Perhaps it's too rich at idle, perhaps it's too lean at 1/8 throttle - that'll require a warm engine to identify. Since that whole range is primarily controlled by the pilot jet and mixture screw, I'm not sure how to fix that. Or if it's something that needs fixing. -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by LANCER on 08/20/09 at 06:32:48 70797C756F787C1D0 wrote:
Color me confused. Let me repeat the steps I took, perhaps there was a miss communication.
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/20/09 at 07:07:24 4B46494442551510270 wrote:
I've tried the "Lancer's Straight & Simple Carb Tuning" several times and always end up 1 turn out with the 55 pilot. I assumed that meant it was "in range". I'll post again after gathering more info with the smaller pilot. -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by sakara on 08/20/09 at 07:41:14 Hey DD, Never realized we were so close. If ya wanna put heads together sometime drop me a line. It sounds like the 52.5 is the way to go imho also. |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by srinath on 08/20/09 at 07:43:40 Surging is not rich, surging is lean. Most rich issues relate to lack of power and soppy sound and soppy feel as well as black or white smoke (if you can see that from the exhaust) and smelling of gas when you try to accelerate. Surging, misfiring etc on cruising and steady throttle is lean. Trying to accelerate and you get a weak and lousy response that is rich. Cool. Srinath. |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by LANCER on 08/20/09 at 17:16:10 7A7B6067687D61090 wrote:
Your right dude, my brain must have been running in reverse. |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/21/09 at 06:30:52 6E636C6167703035020 wrote:
Your right dude, my brain must have been running in reverse.[/quote] So the pilot circuit is both lean and rich. Whoohoo! That's why I haven't already moved down a pilot size. The weather here hasn't been cooperating either. -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by MauiNancy on 08/21/09 at 21:37:16 Are you guys trying to confuse me????? :o |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/22/09 at 07:23:44 3C272D26202F202D37232F3B274E0 wrote:
Not intentionally. The PO started making carburetor adjustments (55 pilot, 155 main, Dyna muffler), but didn't finish the job (didn't adjust idle mixture screw, didn't reduce white spacer, muffler leaked). I'm reading a book on carburetor theory and trying to get my S40 adjusted as close as possible. Unfortunately, I'm a new rider and don't have the 'feel' for what's right/wrong. For example when doing the roll-off tests, I snap open the throttle from about 1/2 to WOT to start. The bike accelerates, but engine makes a really different sound. It's a sort of deep, throaty, "slower" sound. I don't know what that means. Another example is when I went back to the 145 main. I could tell there was no difference in acceleration between 3/4 and WOT. It pulled exactly the same, but I could not feel the extra acceleration the roll-off test should have generated for a too small main jet. With the 150 main, I can at least tell the difference between 3/4 and WOT. I suspect 152.5 would be better, but I don't have the evidence. Back to the topic on hand. I reduced the white spacer to 3 washers (54%) because I had surging at 1/4 throttle. I haven't changed the pilot jet because I thought it was pretty happy with the screw 1 turn out. I wanted to put a tach on to verify, but the clamp won't fit under the gas tank with the stock petcock. Which leaves me attempting to tune the pilot by feel, which I have no experience in. Anyways, enough rambling. MauiNancy if you've got a particular question or confusion, please post it. I'd rather be proven wrong than continue to confound. -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by Serowbot on 08/22/09 at 10:51:04 Could this be a mechanical problem?... Are the needle jet spacers on top of the c-clip?... and is the slide working smoothly?.... Is the big spring in place under the top cap?.... Does the main jet have the brass washer under it?... Also check that your vac line isn't leaking, and the manifold boot has no cracks... Just asking because, when jetting changes don't give predictable results, it's sometimes because of an assembly error... |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/22/09 at 11:46:54 7E687F627A6F62790D0 wrote:
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-D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by texsam on 08/22/09 at 12:01:09 i got a problem with my dads bike, he has a honda shadow spirit vt 750 do you guys know where i can get info on this carb for tuning the mixture screw/screws?????i can't even find it |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by srinath on 08/22/09 at 13:25:00 4D444148524541200 wrote:
Your right dude, my brain must have been running in reverse.[/quote] So the pilot circuit is both lean and rich. Whoohoo! That's why I haven't already moved down a pilot size. The weather here hasn't been cooperating either. -D. Dwarf [/quote] No we didn't say it was rich and lean ... I think Lancer agrees, but we are saying its lean. However you really need to modify your method of test running it. Precise throttle position and correct symptoms will get you far better diagnosis. BTW this carb is so simple I will jet it in my sleep to run like a swiss watch. That would also be lancer's thought I am sure. Cool. Srinath. |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/23/09 at 08:28:21 4A4B5057584D51390 wrote:
Your right dude, my brain must have been running in reverse.[/quote] So the pilot circuit is both lean and rich. Whoohoo! That's why I haven't already moved down a pilot size. The weather here hasn't been cooperating either. -D. Dwarf [/quote] No we didn't say it was rich and lean ... I think Lancer agrees, but we are saying its lean. However you really need to modify your method of test running it. Precise throttle position and correct symptoms will get you far better diagnosis. BTW this carb is so simple I will jet it in my sleep to run like a swiss watch. That would also be lancer's thought I am sure. Cool. Srinath. [/quote] If it's lean, why would I want to go down a jet size? Maybe I should start over. I bought the S40 with 55 pilot (brass cap still over screw), full spacer, 155 main, Dyna muffler that leaked, and noticeable surging between 1/8 and 1/4 throttle. I've adjusted the idle mixture screw by following "Lancer's Straight & Simple Carb Tuning". Although I didn't turn up the idle speed when adjusting the screw. Perhaps that was a mistake. I wanted to use a tach for this but the pickup on the Harbor Freight special won't fit under the tank with stock petcock and fuel/vacuum lines. To fix the surging I removed the white spacer. I've since put 3 washers in (1.5mm vs 2.8mm) because of extremely bad gas mileage. I've toyed with 145, 150, 152.5 and 155 main. I know 145 is too small, but I've been unsuccessful in testing the other three. I'll keep trying. I have not checked the float level. I have not replaced any of the air jets or the needle. I have read Haynes Motorcycle Fuel Systems Techbook. I do not have much experience with engines or carburetors. What started this thread is the requirement of a cold engine for a richer mixture. A cold engine doesn't allow you to determine the correct jetting for a warm engine, but it will respond badly to circuits that tend toward lean. The fact that the cold engine idled better without enrichment, but ran (1/8-1/4 throttle) better with enrichment says that the mixture delivered to the engine is richer at closed throttle than slightly open throttle. Whether either mixture is too lean or too rich for a warm engine is unknown. It may be perfectly normal. I'm doing this because I'm genuinely interested in not only riding my motorcycle, but understanding how it works and what I can do to make it run as well as it can. I'm looking at the Techbook and it shows one circuit for idle:
My understanding is that the pilot jet feeds multiple outlet holes. One of which is metered by the adjustment screw. The rest of which are brought into play by opening the throttle slightly. Opening the throttle slightly also brings the needle and needle jet into play, but only slightly because the thickest part of the needle is still in the jet. Theoretically: If I wanted to make idle leaner and 1/8 to 1/4 throttle richer at the same time, how would I accomplish that? And now for something completely different... The Techbook indicates that the lift of the piston valve (slide) at WOT is proportional to the engine RPM. This means that at WOT and low to mid RPMs that the needle and needle jet are the limiting factor. Which brings me to back to question the Roll-Off testing procedure. Is the intention of the Roll-Off test to experience the transition from the piston valve (slide) at it's fully lifted position to a slightly lower position? I apologize for how long and random this has become. The theory posted by Diamond Jim, his "Progressive Jetting Guide", and reading the Techbook have got me thinking about how the engine works and what the difference is between running and running well. 2D20282426272D232024490 wrote:
-D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by srinath on 08/23/09 at 10:28:14 This is your startng point. I bought the S40 with 55 pilot (brass cap still over screw), full spacer, 155 main, Dyna muffler that leaked, and noticeable surging between 1/8 and 1/4 throttle. Get back to that spot. Then, make these runs. 1/8th to 1/4 throttle is a good range, but how is it at take off. You have to use excessive throttle or it will stall = too large pilot. You can take off with relatively low throttle but it will idle high when hot, much higher than when cold = lean on pilot or air screw. Idle is fine when cold but when hot, and the bike is revved sitting still @ idle and it will rev up, and drop below the idle rpm and then come back to the idle rpm, or even stall = rich on mix screw. You can easily be rich on 1 and lean in the other in that range also ... so we need to isolate it properly and make a small change and observe it before making the next change. If your problem does not follow any of these above - Put a washer under the needle. Test it thoroughly after this, not just 1/8th -1/4, but all the way to 3/4 throttle. needle is more effective 1/2 to 3/4 ... so fixing it for the 1/8th-1/4 can easily toss it into too rich higher up. If your throttle as it is opened the bike hesitates a wee bit, the float is a shade high. This actually applies across most of the rpm range If you lean surge across a wide range if rpm - like from 1/8th to 3/4 throttle, your float level is too low. AKA if your problem is everywhere its float ... or if all else fails its the float. Bad gas mileage suggests its the float, and its high. Or atleast its high but the 1/8th to1/4 is so lean its still lean surging. The slide cutaway is garbage, it will not do much on a savage. Its so slow revving ... leave it alone, whatever any one tells you, do not modify that. Idle leaner and 1/8th-1/4 richer = in on air screw and up on pilot. Yea white spacer mod is a bandaid ... compensating with other areas can work OK ... but could also give up and make it horrible all over. Cool. Srinath. |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/23/09 at 11:36:34 45445F5857425E360 wrote:
I'd expected you to tell me to return it to stock. I know 55/full spacer/155 causes lean surging at small throttle openings. Returning the carburetor to a known bad configuration doesn't seem productive. Weather is not cooperating today. I'll test tomorrow. 45445F5857425E360 wrote:
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Srinath, Thanks for the specific tasks. I'll post results with my current jetting tomorrow (probably in the morning, if I'm not late for work). -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/24/09 at 06:32:39 I performed Lancer's Straight & Simple Carb Tuning (http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1157720585) this morning. 65 degrees F, 90% humidity, 450 ft above sea level With the engine warm and the RPM turned up: - bottomed out without engine slowing - engine slowed about 2 turns out With the engine warm and the RPM at normal idle: - engine slowed before bottoming out - engine slowed about 2 turns out I noticed no difference from 0.75 to 1.25 turns. 5D5C47404F5A462E0 wrote:
About 2mm of throttle after the slack is taken up. Way less than 1/8 throttle. I've got some clear tubing, I'll check the fuel level in the bowl tonight. I didn't get to testing 1/4-3/4 throttle. Does anyone know the answer to my question about the Roll-Off Test? 272E2B22382F2B4A0 wrote:
-D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by srinath on 08/24/09 at 08:07:00 I have not read lancer's tuning guide. The 2 turns sounds like its right. However I would still try the other ones I mentioned. Or, Washers under needle are easily reversible. Try 1 under it and see what it does. Cool. Srinath. |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/24/09 at 18:13:54 3930353C263135540 wrote:
That was a miserable failure. I measured the carb drain to be a hair over 1/4 inch OD, so I bought some 1/4 ID tubing. I managed to leak gas all over the towel I put down "just in case". No time to grab a ruler, I eye-balled it around the level of screw head. That puts it 5-6 mm below the gasket. -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by srinath on 08/24/09 at 18:16:36 Bike gotta be level too, side and front to back. You need to be at the gasket face ... +/- 1mm or heck, 1/2 mm. Cool. Srinath. |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/24/09 at 18:22:39 6362797E716478100 wrote:
I got the level part right. Just leaked everywhere. Even with a clamp. I'll try again later in the week. -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by Serowbot on 08/24/09 at 19:21:40 Rolling off at full throttle before you reach top rpm's, will momentarily richen the mix... by reducing air intake flow with the throttle valve... if this gives a momentary increase in acceleration before dropping,.. you are lean on the main. Go a step up. If you just feel a slight decrease in acceleration, you don't need a bigger main. Go incrementally smaller on the main until you feel that slight power increase during the roll off,... at that point, you are lean, then go one jet size higher to correct size main. I would recommend setting your needle jet spacer to 2/3rds of stock ( It will measure .066",... stock is .1"...) then once you get the jet sizes straitened out, tweak the spacers for best, seat of the pants, acceleration. |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/25/09 at 08:44:55 I did a gentle roll from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle in 3rd gear. The S40 smoothly accelerated all the way through. It felt like the rate of acceleration was faster after 1/2 throttle had been reached. 4E584F524A5F52493D0 wrote:
Is the assumption that a few seconds of WOT (independent of RPM) is all it takes for the slide to reach its maximum height? Maybe a 150 main is all I need, that would explain why I've not noticed the 'momentary increase in acceleration'. 4E584F524A5F52493D0 wrote:
The washers I'm using are almost exactly 0.5mm. That means I've got a choice of roughly 36%, 54%, or 71% of stock. I'm running 3 washers (54%) right now. -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/25/09 at 08:47:17 2D2C37303F2A365E0 wrote:
Do you mean increase the spacer by a washer? -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by LANCER on 08/25/09 at 16:13:16 Since your bike is an '07 model, I assume that it has not had any extended down time which could have left gunk in the carb that would clog any of the tiny passageways, which would affect tuning and cause odd symptoms. You have checked and/or adjusted the float to proper level. You have a stock engine with stock carb and a dyna muffler, which is mounted properly and has no air leaks, which would mess with your tuning efforts otherwise. With those issues eliminated, you should be able to jet & tune the carb normally. The majority of others with a stock engine, carb and dyna muffler end up with a #52.5 pilot, 3 washers on the needle, and a #152.5 main jet. A few engines like a #55 pilot vs the 52.5, but as long as the engine responds to the tuning process normally then either is fine. Ex: A #55 with the screw at about 1 turn out, or a #52.5 with the screw at about 2 turns out, can supply an equal amount of fuel so there is no real difference. Though Mikuni does say somewhere that if you have a choice, it is better to go with the smaller jet @ 2 turns out vs the larger jet @ 1 turn out. Anyway, as long as you have the right size jet so that when turning the screw you DO have a "happy point" that yields a max rpm at idle, and if you turn either right or left then the engine slows. That tells you that you have the correct setting. Also, it is not unusual to have a small range where turning the screw does not seem to change the rpm. Like you mentioned earlier that between 3/4-1 1/4 turns out there was no change. This does happen at times, and if so then set the screw in the middle of that range ... in this case at 1 turn out. 3 washers on the needle should work fine for you for the midrange with good pilot and good main jet. The main jet that gives you the highest speed @ WOT if you have a road you can do that on. IF not, then the largest main jet that does not bog the engine down @ WOT and near redline rpm in 3rd gear is the one. Keep going larger until it bogs; then drop down 1 size. If you go through this process and it is still not working correctly, and you know that you have good ignition, then pull the carb and tear it down to look for the problem. Something is clogged. There are several very small passageways and a single small grain of sand can easily clog them. Good luck man, I know how frustrating it can be at times. |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/25/09 at 18:34:54 Lancer, Thank you for your post. I'd just convinced myself I need to return completely to stock and start over. I've never had this bike stock! 333E313C3A2D6D685F0 wrote:
Longest down time I'm aware of is Nov - March. I did use fuel stabilizer. 333E313C3A2D6D685F0 wrote:
I have not. I've managed to avoid pulling the carb up to this point. Later in the week I'll have time to get some smaller ID tubing and retry that trick. 333E313C3A2D6D685F0 wrote:
Correct. 333E313C3A2D6D685F0 wrote:
At 1/2 turns out it slows slightly. It is less than 1/4 turns out when it really starts to bog. It doesn't stall even at 0 turns out. Back to the original topic: Which is better for the engine when it's warm out and the engine is cold... a) Choke to first notch - idles rough, but runs OK b) No Choke - idles OK, but runs rough 333E313C3A2D6D685F0 wrote:
I don't have a road I can safely do more than 70 on. I'll try redlining 3rd gear later in the week with the 150 main. 333E313C3A2D6D685F0 wrote:
I don't think that'll be necessary. Part of the problem is that I'm attempting to understand why, rather than just follow instructions. Thanks for the help. -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by LANCER on 08/25/09 at 22:21:31 As others have mentioned before, you've gotta get the float level adjusted properly or else you'll beat yourself in the head at every step. Also, you have noted a couple of times that the engine still runs with the adj screw turned IN all the way to the bottom ... odd ... it should die when you do that since that is supposed to close off all pilot circuit fuel ... hmmm, so where is the extra fuel coming from ? We have another mystery. http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u248/socomiou1/banner.gif |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/26/09 at 09:50:03 737E717C7A6D2D281F0 wrote:
Could it be because the idle is turned up? I think it was idling about 1200 RPM last time I did audio analysis on it (no tach). Would that be enough to expose one of the unmetered pilot outlet holes? -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by jabman on 08/26/09 at 10:16:58 hmmm the engine doesnt die when i put the screw all the way in? but it does if i use the choke? |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/26/09 at 19:14:01 7B76797472652520170 wrote:
Either my garage isn't level or the carb doesn't sit perfectly vertical. Using the clear tubing method: * Toward the middle of the carb it was right at the gasket * Toward the back of the carb, it was a bit low Something must be causing the back of the carb to be higher than the front. -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/27/09 at 06:05:53 I still get an occasional muffled WUMP on shutdown and afterfire on throttle close. Seems to happen more when the engine is cold or the air is hot. 232E212C2A3D7D784F0 wrote:
If the engine is fully warmed up, when I push the choke in the engine RPMs dip, but recover without stalling. 535E515C5A4D0D083F0 wrote:
Hit 75 in 3rd today, no bogging. I had to merge, but I think I was pretty closed to maxed out. I'll go up a jet and retest. Supposed to rain, so it may be a few days. -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by jabman on 08/28/09 at 05:33:14 my bike likes the 150 main jet as well? its stock except for the dyna muffler |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/28/09 at 05:50:17 I noticed something odd yesterday morning when I got to work. There was a liquid on carburetor, between the carburetor and the engine. It didn't smell like gas. I guess it could be condensation, but it would surprise me that the carburetor body would be cold. -D. Dwarf |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by LANCER on 08/28/09 at 08:25:48 5851545D475054350 wrote:
If the engine is fully warmed up, when I push the choke in the engine RPMs dip, but recover without stalling. 535E515C5A4D0D083F0 wrote:
Hit 75 in 3rd today, no bogging. I had to merge, but I think I was pretty closed to maxed out. I'll go up a jet and retest. Supposed to rain, so it may be a few days. -D. Dwarf [/quote] Did it accelerate normally during that run ? Any hesitation or other negative symptoms ? If not then it sounds like you have pretty well got you carb set. 75 mph in 3rd is very good. |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by verslagen1 on 08/28/09 at 09:11:56 I know 75 in 4th is 5500 rpm So would that be 6500 rpm in 3rd? I wouldn't want to go any faster... in 3rd. :o |
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Title: Re: Carbs...again! Post by DrunkenDwarf on 08/28/09 at 10:17:05 363B34393F28686D5A0 wrote:
Hit 75 in 3rd today, no bogging. I had to merge, but I think I was pretty closed to maxed out. I'll go up a jet and retest. Supposed to rain, so it may be a few days. -D. Dwarf[/quote] Did it accelerate normally during that run ? Any hesitation or other negative symptoms ? If not then it sounds like you have pretty well got you carb set. 75 mph in 3rd is very good.[/quote] I believe so. I don't have anything to compare it to. It didn't make any funny noises. I'm still going to try the larger main jets, I'd like to experience a 'bad' run for comparison. -D. Dwarf |
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